Interior LED / Cathode Install
#22
i just got some cathodes for my box and im more of an illiterate when it comes to electricty and wires as well as what not does anyone know how to break this down in terms i can understand? more of a diagram on how u spliced the wires and how to connect everything up?
#23
LED and Cathode DIY/Install
Rather than drilling in or on to anythig try useing Zip tie mounts I got mine from
https://www.zip-ty.com/productslist....27&selection=5
They are not expenceive at all, and will do no permanant damage to you ride. I have only seen them in either clear or black but if youy do a search you might find them in other colors.
Just food for thought
Bruce C
https://www.zip-ty.com/productslist....27&selection=5
They are not expenceive at all, and will do no permanant damage to you ride. I have only seen them in either clear or black but if youy do a search you might find them in other colors.
Just food for thought
Bruce C
#24
LED and Cathode DIY/Install
This is a product that might come in handy and make life alot easyier Automotive Fuse Tap Adapters found at
http://www.crowbarelectricalparts.co...useholders.htm
I know cuttng and splicing can be scary this makes it alot better
Bruce C.
http://www.crowbarelectricalparts.co...useholders.htm
I know cuttng and splicing can be scary this makes it alot better
Bruce C.
#25
I have the cold cathodes finally. I bought the cpu computer ones. I cant figure out how to get power to them. The cathodes come with like 2 wite wires that go into a box, followed by 4 wires. I am very confused with how to ready the wires from the point of when I take the unit out of the box, to the point where I want to run my power wires to the cold cathode.
Please help.
Please help.
#26
LED and Cathode DIY/Install
"I have the cold cathodes finally. I bought the cpu computer ones. I cant figure out how to get power to them. The cathodes come with like 2 wite wires that go into a box, followed by 4 wires. I am very confused with how to ready the wires from the point of when I take the unit out of the box, to the point where I want to run my power wires to the cold cathode."
DO NOT i REPEAT DO NOT cut off the box it will render them useless! there shoule be a plug on one side of the box (sometimes both sides) plug the wires in to the box. Threr really is no pos or neg wire. What I did was run a wire from the positive battery post, there sould be a connector there you will need a wire connector that looks like is has a washer on it, you wil also need a 30amp fuse splicees in to the hot wire, this is what connects to the battery for the ground any place with a metal connection will work, The is a two person job one of you will need to be inside the car and poke a ssrewdriver thru the rubber gronet that the stering wheel goes theu it is a biscuit but can be done.
Or the easy way buy the mini fuse taps Tap in to the fuse box with a fuse that goes on when the key is on. I still think puttng another 30amp fuse in to the new power wire. Gounding same as before find clean metal and hook the ground to this. If you want them to run all of the time, you'll need to find a fuse that is hot all of the time like the clock, and have a switch in the dash the hot or positive wire will go to the switch and then to the lights, Things you'll need wire conectors I likw the heat shrink kind(note if you use these you'll need a fireplace type lighter to shrink them just add flame and rotate with flame on you'll see it melt) fuse taps 100 for 13and change see link in the fourm. A wire cutter, a crimper(alot of the wire cutters have a crimping part on them it is in the front of the unit) a switch cheap at lowes it will fit the OEM place in the dash under the AC controls. Zip ties and 3/4X3/4 zip tie mounts. There are also two cut outs in the center counsole next to the E-brake, it is real easy to remove one screw in the back cup holder, the front has two preasrue mounts lift gently and it should pop right off. I used a dremel with the cutting blade, you could use a box type knife and score thru the plastic it will take a while but you'll get thru. And that is about it !
One more thing you could do is put reflective tape behind the cold cathode it wil make them brighter.
For seat mounting it is real easy remove the center console cut your hole mount the switch, find a tap in the fuse box, on the passanger side run the wire under the side palstic pull off the door sill plate it lifts right off. run the wire under it and replace run the wire unner the seat to the center cousole. I used one of the bolts that holds the seat to ground it(you will need to sand he paint off of hte bolt) I mounted the reflective tape and the zip mounting squares on the inside seat rail, Zip tie the lights on repeat on the drivers side.
Remember treat electric with respect never lay a live wire lay loose put some tape on the end till your ready to hook it up!
Hopes this helps
Bruce C
DO NOT i REPEAT DO NOT cut off the box it will render them useless! there shoule be a plug on one side of the box (sometimes both sides) plug the wires in to the box. Threr really is no pos or neg wire. What I did was run a wire from the positive battery post, there sould be a connector there you will need a wire connector that looks like is has a washer on it, you wil also need a 30amp fuse splicees in to the hot wire, this is what connects to the battery for the ground any place with a metal connection will work, The is a two person job one of you will need to be inside the car and poke a ssrewdriver thru the rubber gronet that the stering wheel goes theu it is a biscuit but can be done.
Or the easy way buy the mini fuse taps Tap in to the fuse box with a fuse that goes on when the key is on. I still think puttng another 30amp fuse in to the new power wire. Gounding same as before find clean metal and hook the ground to this. If you want them to run all of the time, you'll need to find a fuse that is hot all of the time like the clock, and have a switch in the dash the hot or positive wire will go to the switch and then to the lights, Things you'll need wire conectors I likw the heat shrink kind(note if you use these you'll need a fireplace type lighter to shrink them just add flame and rotate with flame on you'll see it melt) fuse taps 100 for 13and change see link in the fourm. A wire cutter, a crimper(alot of the wire cutters have a crimping part on them it is in the front of the unit) a switch cheap at lowes it will fit the OEM place in the dash under the AC controls. Zip ties and 3/4X3/4 zip tie mounts. There are also two cut outs in the center counsole next to the E-brake, it is real easy to remove one screw in the back cup holder, the front has two preasrue mounts lift gently and it should pop right off. I used a dremel with the cutting blade, you could use a box type knife and score thru the plastic it will take a while but you'll get thru. And that is about it !
One more thing you could do is put reflective tape behind the cold cathode it wil make them brighter.
For seat mounting it is real easy remove the center console cut your hole mount the switch, find a tap in the fuse box, on the passanger side run the wire under the side palstic pull off the door sill plate it lifts right off. run the wire under it and replace run the wire unner the seat to the center cousole. I used one of the bolts that holds the seat to ground it(you will need to sand he paint off of hte bolt) I mounted the reflective tape and the zip mounting squares on the inside seat rail, Zip tie the lights on repeat on the drivers side.
Remember treat electric with respect never lay a live wire lay loose put some tape on the end till your ready to hook it up!
Hopes this helps
Bruce C
#27
Re: LED and Cathode DIY/Install
Originally Posted by bcharley3
DO NOT i REPEAT DO NOT cut off the box it will render them useless!
guess I'm ordering more. Thanks for the details. I'll be reading it more thoughrally very soon.
#29
Thanks! BTW the reflective comes in Red & White. The white is a good one to use if you decide to go with another color other than red. since there are so many to choose from. This will also work with LED's as well. I am going to put in strobes under the hood in red next.
#30
my adivce on cathodes......
i've done my research and pepole have told me dont splice the white wires from the cathodes. i went to the computer store where i bought mine(cathodes) and found extensions they are for fans but have the same connector (with a little customizing)if you do this you will know what i mean. i didnt get low light out put like most people get when installing thier lights.
you can pretty much zip tie everything just dont do it too tight.
holla back if you need anymore advice
if you need extensions
casecooler.com
you can pretty much zip tie everything just dont do it too tight.
holla back if you need anymore advice
if you need extensions
casecooler.com
#31
I left the box that was connected to the cathodes but after the box I cut the wires and out a blade type connector to the grounded one wire ran the othe to the switch then to a fuse and then to the battery Mine are as bright as they couls be
#33
You are correct in this, and I have already said this in a post earlier. Posted: Fri Nov 04, 2005 2:29 am, Post subject: LED and Cathode DIY/Install. I would think, if it was said once this would be the end of the subject. I thought I went in to the install in depth, If I am remiss in this matter please let me know what I left out and I will correct this matter. I am not in the likeing of giving bum advice.
What was written is what i have done to the Xb, and it has worked for me with both LED's and cold cathodes.
What was written is what i have done to the Xb, and it has worked for me with both LED's and cold cathodes.
#34
well i finally got mine in today. took us 2 days to do it (thanks to my VP RPMxB 4 the help!). But now I have a little problem. one of the cathodes on the left side under the seat turned off and I dont know why. the fronts still light up but not the back one. I only have one cathode in the back for now becuase Im using to inverters and I need to buy the black/red plug that goes into the inverter. Does anyone know what may be the problem as to why the back one wont light up anymore? Im thinking the inverter was bad or the cathode just died. let me know.
#35
Senior Member
SL Member
Team ScioNRG
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Elmira, NY
Posts: 2,140
Check the power going in and the power coming out. If there's power in and out, it's the light. If there's power in and not out it's the invertor. If there's no power in, it's your wiring :D
#37
how would i check the inverters? i think one may have been weak. I have 2 spare inverters, you think i should swap inverters and see if thats the prob? Also my front cathodes work fine so im thinking either its the cathode or th transformer. I dont think its the wiring but I wont know until I test them.
#39
I agree try the swap first, if it works great. if not then swap the cathode. Cathodes are weird one day they work and the next there dead. there is no warning when they go. To bad there not stock, they would be replaced under warrenty, you just have to do the trickle down in checking all that could be wroong. By CK'ing what could be wrong, if it does not fix the prob. then go to the next thing, then the next and so on.
Bruce C
Bruce C
#40
Re: LED and Cathode DIY/Install
Originally Posted by superjeer
The passenger side is tricky because the dash has ribbed reinforcements for her driving pleasure.
- sh00k