There will be no difference in ride. the bar simply restricts roll.

 

The late model progress bar kits have the flags w/ 2 attached nuts- at least mine did. They're a good thing. Also included some extra hardware, apparently just to keep us guessing. This is a part that's working all the time, so proper torque on the bolts is a must. I used loctite blue on the threads, as well- it definitely won't work loose over time.

Even if you drive conservatively, it'll improve emergency handling tremendously with no noticeable effect on ride quality. You'll never know it's there until you make a sharp cornering maneuver.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I will install one ASAP. The Toyota-Scion dealer about 45 minutes from my home advertises a 22mmTRD bar for $169.50. There are some for sale for less, but this sounds good to me.

 

So, do these actually attach to the unibody somewhere or is it mainly to stiffen up the trailing beam?

Would there be any benefit to a bar that attached to the unibody in such a way that it still allowed "up and down" motion of the axle but did a better job of preventing "twist"?

 

There would be no need for it to connect to the car other than on the trailing arms. After driving mine I think there would be little that you could do to make the car ride flatter. I have TRD springs and the Progress sway bar along with the OTG rear spacer shims. The combination really makes a difference.

 

The GT Spec 4-point brace helped tighten things up as well.

Some guys are using the TRD rear brace for the ECHO but it's not a direct bolt-on, at least on the xB you gotta drill...

 

Thanks, FlyerI and ScionicMan. I've heard good things about the TRD rear brace and it supposedly bolts in to the xA without drilling/cutting! woot! I don't think I'll need it for a while, though.

I still wonder, in theory, if the sway bar attached...say...to the TRD brace as well, would there be any benefit for those looking for "all out" performance or does this setup hinder the operation of the torsion beam?

Good info from all. Thanks.

 

same thing happened to me, i was scratching my head trying to figure this one out... cost me mucho daynight/ into the night.. thus i had to call it a day, without installing my Progress bar...

 

My bar had the two-nut flags, which I regard as an improvement over the single nut design. Very easy to use...

 

Mine also has the two-nut flanges. I assume you don't use the extra two nuts that come with this? Also which way do the those flanges go in? I installed mine so that the pointy ends point out the back.



Is this right?

EDIT: I assume this is correct. Everything is tightened down and seems to be fine. I'm about to go take the car for a test spin.

 

I just installed My Progress ARB last night in the dark. One of the easiest things I have done on a car (and I have done alot). Took me 20 min (REALLY!)

Mine had the two nut flag bar. I used blue loctite since installing this way you have no lock nuts or split washers to help keep the bolts fron vibrating loose and torqued them down to 45. Piece of cake. Looks just like Sushiboy's ^^^

The ASB make a good differance in corner handling. Now for some springs....


-PF

 

Yeh, you got it right, Sushiboy... Apparently the extra nuts are... extra... since they won't work in this application...

 

Will a sway bay help a car on airbags?

 

"Will a sway bay help a car on airbags?"

Sure. I worked on airride equipped busses for years, and many had swaybars...

One of the problems with air suspension is that the bags have a tendency to act like an anti-anti-swaybar, depending on how they're plumbed. In hard cornering, the pressure in the outside bag goes up, and conversely goes down in the inside bag. Air flows from the higher to the lower pressure bag, increasing body roll... Commercial vehicles use levelling valves to prevent this, and to maintain constant ride height...

 

anyone know what the correct torque is to tighten the nuts?

 

If you know your bolt size, all you need is something like this...

http://www.engineershandbook.com/Tables/torque.htm

 

Bolt size M10 x 1.5 x 30, Progress says 45 ft/lbs.

Just installed mine Saturday, literally fifteen minutes. No need to remove the wheels. Really notice a difference in cornering! A must have for Box owners, well worth the time and $$!

BTW, no more extra nuts or washers (Rev. B, 3/29/06) just the flag nuts and 4 washers.

 

And if you hurry, you can get it for under $135 shipped.

http://www.ptuning.com/html/Item-Des...l&ModelDesc=xB

Ends 10.31.06.

 

^^Great price! Mine was $145 shipped on fleabay and worth every penny.

 

What he said. It took longer to get the car up on the stands than it did to put the bar on. The flag nuts are now welded onto the flag, no drama there.

I left the wheels on, used the inside of one rim to hold the left side of the bar up, while I loosely threaded one bolt into the flag, then finger tightened the bolts on the other side - then back to the right to tighten them on.

I'm guessing my 18" wheels gave me a lot more working space. I had NO problems getting my socket on any of the bolts (used a wobble extension part of the time).

FWIW UPS delivered mine with an open box and no mounting hardware. Partshippers and Progress were very cool and got the stuff I needed to me inside 3 days.

Now on to the springs.