situation:

installed my rotora BBK today ((front lines, calipers, rotors pads) & (rear lines, pads, rotors)).

problems:

im hearing a hissing noise from the abs pump when the brake is pressed

i have NO pressure at the brake peddal

brake light is on (when when e-brake is down)

ABS light is on

cars voltage is down to 12.1v (i think the alternator has gone bad because the engine cut off when we disconnected the ground from the battery)

sunroof wont operate (its slightly open, and wont move closed or open)

checked fuses, one was blown (it was a 15a fuse, but i forget what one it was) and it was replaced.

- so do any of you know any problems that could of happened? what i can do, etc???

any help will help me.

thank you in advace

For the sunroof, press and hold the close buttom for a about 10 seconds. Same to the windows if it needed. The rest I dont'know

For the sunroof, press and hold the close buttom for a about 10 seconds. Same to the windows if it needed. The rest I dont'know

your thinking is right, but thats typically because of disconnecting the battery. and that isnt the issue here because i can reset the driver and passanger widown, but the sunroof seems as though it isnt getting power.

i dont know if all of this is linked together, but i know toyota/scion has a habbit to tie in fuses with other things. but like i said, i checked the fuses, and the one that was bad was replaced.

i will be calling rotora and my dealerships service manager tomorrow to get more info... but please... any good information is helpful!

Have you checked both fuse boxes? There is one under the dashboard and one under the hood. If you did, I don't know how to help, except to say "good luck" =op

checked fuses, one was blown (it was a 15a fuse, but i forget what one it was) and it was replaced.



no one has any ideas??

did you check again to see if it blew again? It that is the case it may be grounding out somewhere.

yeah, we double checked it and the fuse was fine.

here is a picture of the non-working brakes... hopefully they will be working today / tomorrow.

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/7/web/2035000-2035999/2035330_94_full.jpg

^^^^^ *drools*

^^^^^ *drools*

that actually made me laugh, so thanks for the smile and compliment.


any help at all???

did u make sure to pump the brake and drain any air bubbles that maybe in the line. that could be the reason y the brakes arent working just a thought.

did u make sure to pump the brake and drain any air bubbles that maybe in the line. that could be the reason y the brakes arent working just a thought.

we did bleed the brakes, but we are still having problems. my service manager thinks their is still air in the system, probably at the master cyl, so im taking the car to him tonight. but i still wanna get your guys/gals insite

when u did the lines and bleed the brakes, did u start from the rear of the car and work ur way up front ?

sounds like you deff still have a lot of air in the line. But - it seems like you have more then one issue. Having power issues and a broken fuse wouldnt have anything to do w/ the brakes. can anybody comment on that?

Is that 12.1V with the engine running? If so you definitely are not charging at all. If it is engine off voltage then that is normal.

Sounds like a ton of air in the system. Sometimes you can get into a tough bleed situation with ABS brakes. A full bleeder system like a shop will have can usually take care of it though.

If it was an ABS fuse blown, then you would have the ABS light on all the time, but you should still have brakes, so that should not be the cause.

when u did the lines and bleed the brakes, did u start from the rear of the car and work ur way up front ?

Bleed in this order: Drivers Rear, Pass. Rear, Pass. Front, Drivers Front

sounds like you deff still have a lot of air in the line. But - it seems like you have more then one issue. Having power issues and a broken fuse wouldnt have anything to do w/ the brakes. can anybody comment on that?

Exactly! That is what boggles my mind. Unless it was just a freak chance that something happended electrically when we were working on my brakes, and it was just time for something to happen. That is what boggles my mind the most.

I have a feeling I have air in the system, so it is getting a power brake flush at my dealership tonight / tomorrow.

again, keep the thoughts coming, and thank you all so far

Is that 12.1V with the engine running? If so you definitely are not charging at all. If it is engine off voltage then that is normal.

Sounds like a ton of air in the system. Sometimes you can get into a tough bleed situation with ABS brakes. A full bleeder system like a shop will have can usually take care of it though.

If it was an ABS fuse blown, then you would have the ABS light on all the time, but you should still have brakes, so that should not be the cause.

12.1v with the car running. and i was under the assumption that the car woudlnt even start on such low voltage, but it did. and i know the gauge isnt messed up cause i have one volt meter off the battery (for my car audio), one voltmeter on my apillar, and my caps for my system both have volt meters, and all (with the exception of the caps) read the same voltage, the caps were slightly lower in the high 11's.

And this happened out of no where. when i took it out for the first test run, the voltage was around 13.6ish.

We noticed one 15a fuse blown (and replaced it), but I cant remember which one it was, but it was a 15a fuse in the interior fuse box.

and my rear breaks did grip a little on the first run. but after we re-bleed the brakes to attempt to get more air out, i lost all pedal pressure. the only pressure i have at the pedal now is the spring to pull the pedal back up.

there may still be air in the system

electrically i dont really know what to say, you checked fuses, changing the brakes really should have had nothing to do with your electrical problems

check your fluid level when you depress the brakes down.

when the car is off and you pump the brakes do they get stiff, or they still squishy? if they get stiff, then you may have a problem in your master cylinder

we also tried to bleed the brakes with the car on and at idle. and we noticed that when i would be pumping the brake pedal that the idle would be changing (you could hear it in the egaust tones and engine). It sounded like the engine was going to stall, but then would pick up, then stall. The process of the engine doing that reminded me of when the a/f ratio is messed up, and your engine is compensating for fuel or air (hopefully you know what i mean by saying that... noise wise).

dont know if thats any help, but it just popped in my head and i wanted to post it

there may still be air in the system

electrically i dont really know what to say, you checked fuses, changing the brakes really should have had nothing to do with your electrical problems

check your fluid level when you depress the brakes down.

when the car is off and you pump the brakes do they get stiff, or they still squishy? if they get stiff, then you may have a problem in your master cylinder

-i think their is still air i the system as well

-electrically it boggles me too

-fluid level was watched the entire time, and kept full

-when the car was OFF, and i was pumping the brakes, the pedal was very stiff, and when we turned the car ON, i had alot more play when bleeding the brakes

if that is correct about what you are saying, my service manager also said i probably have air in the master cyl, and they will power flush / bleed the brakes

i think it may be on the master cylinder like you mentioned.

air finds a way to get into the dunrdest places

just by chance, try switching or getting a diff battery, I know in my sis's VW we had a mad eletrical problem thinking it was a fuse and such but it was the battery.

i just replaced the battery approx 2 months ago. its a yellow top so i can get another one free if it dies. i just need to find the recepit. but i cant see that battery dieing that fast unless their is an underlying problem with the electrical system

and yea I definetly think its mad air in the system. make sure u get it properly drained and refilled,. what kind of fluid are u using btw ? RBF 600 Motul?

no, valvoline syn. i have no real need to spend the extra cash on motul, ill never get my fluid up to them temps to need it.

but yeah, im hoping its as simple as a nice flush, and my brakes will be good to go.

then its on with the electrical....

The car will start at 12.1, that is the voltage the battery will sit at normally with the key off. 13.6 or so is the voltage requred to charge, but the batterys idle (engine off) voltage will still be 12V.

For the charging, you should check that all connections to the alternator are correct, battery connections are good and no fuses blown. Borrow a multimeter and read at the battery terminals with the car running. You should see about 13.6 - 14.2 V. I say use a meter because you can then be sure you dont have anything going on with your sound system wiring/gauges.

As far as the idle changing when you pumped the brakes, that will happen with power brakes, so that should be normal.

The car will start at 12.1, that is the voltage the battery will sit at normally with the key off. 13.6 or so is the voltage requred to charge, but the batterys idle (engine off) voltage will still be 12V.

For the charging, you should check that all connections to the alternator are correct, battery connections are good and no fuses blown. Borrow a multimeter and read at the battery terminals with the car running. You should see about 13.6 - 14.2 V. I say use a meter because you can then be sure you dont have anything going on with your sound system wiring/gauges.

As far as the idle changing when you pumped the brakes, that will happen with power brakes, so that should be normal.

we had a fluke meter too, and i didnt even think to use it because of looking at all the gauges in the car. i cant see how any of the connections are bad, because like i said it was running at the 13.6ish voltage on the first run, then all the sudden dropped to 12.1v. and the drive i took was very smooth, so i can see a connection getting lose. we chekced the fuses, but will check them again. for any that are blown.

do you think i could have an alternator problem?

^ you said your car wouldnt keep running w/ the neg terminal off the battery ..right?

^ you said your car wouldnt keep running w/ the neg terminal off the battery ..right?

my car cut out when we disconnected the main ground from the battery. about 2 months ago we tested my alternator using the same method (disconnecting the ground), and the car kept running. But the volts were also aound 13.6, not 12.1 like they are now (or were yesterday).

my service manager is telling me that WAS a good way to see if an alt. went bad back when cars engines were more simple, but he is telling me that with cars today, and how much electronics they have, it is NOT a good indicator to see if the alt is bad or not.

but none the less, what were you getting at? cause im still consused with my electrical problem, and the brake problem seems to be air in the lines and or master cyl

b

For what it's worth: when I swapped the calipers and rotors on the C5, I bled the brakes, but the pedal still felt spongy. Went back, bled some more, but this time I tapped on the caliper brackets and calipers to remove even more air. You may be surprised how much air is still in the end of the lines.

yeah, well now im hearing you need to presurize the lines to get all the air out because of the abs pump. none the less, its going to my dealer to get it power flushed and replaced.

watching...
with your abs.. did you make sure you put all the wires back in.. i did that when i did my springs.. i forgot to put one back in and i had the abs light on...
also, with the brakes changing the voltage.. i think that is normal with bigger brakes like engifineer said.. my gf has a nissan and it does that all the time...
gluck.. tell how it comes out

watching...
with your abs.. did you make sure you put all the wires back in.. i did that when i did my springs.. i forgot to put one back in and i had the abs light on...
also, with the brakes changing the voltage.. i think that is normal with bigger brakes like engifineer said.. my gf has a nissan and it does that all the time...
gluck.. tell how it comes out

no wires were tampered with for the install of the brake kit, and the brakes shouldnt change the voltage. but i will deff keep this post updated

^ you said your car wouldnt keep running w/ the neg terminal off the battery ..right?

but none the less, what were you getting at? cause im still consused with my electrical problem, and the brake problem seems to be air in the lines and or master cyl

b

I always thought what you are saying ... if you take the neg terminal off ...it should run. Someone off the top of their head should know if when they took theirs off ....if it still ran

well like a month ago, when i discounnted my ground, it did still run. but yesterday, it died. so i dunno =\

ok, so i got the car to my dealership safe yesterday. and on the way there, i got to add three more problems to my list

1. car wouldnt shift out of park, i checked the fuses, and they were fine. so i had to use the over ride next to the shifter to shift out of park

2. check engine light

3. speedo stopped working

I have no clue what is going on - deff keep us posted - there are prob a ton of people saying the same thing .........

yeah dude... i have no clue whats goin on with my car. but im hoping its all minor stuff that can be fixed very easily, and my friend and i just over looked it.

Ugh, I hate electrical problems, they can be so difficult to pin down sometimes. Almost as bad as trying to pinpoint intermittent interior noises. I'm a little surprised at the method you used to bleed your breaks; usually it's done in diagonal pairs, ie, left front, right rear. Good luck though.

from doing research, they are supposed to be bleed from the farthest away from the master cylinder, because those are the lines that have th emost fluid in them, and its better to bleed them first. thats just waht i read though... obviously i had problems, so i dunno.

and yeah... your telling me. it doesntlook like im getting the car back today, hopefully tomorrow. ill be calling them in about 10 mins for an update

The brake pedal will get stiff if the car is off and you are pumping it. Reason why your car sounded different when you was bleeding it while the car is running could be from the brake booster trying to adjust for the different level of fluid. Also check the vacuum hose that runs to it and make sure it is still connected and not kinked or something.

Just do the power flush and see what happens.

we didnt tamper with the booster or any vacuum lines, so that shouldntbe an issue. and i agree that my car was changing its idle to adapt to one, or all of the following: booster, master cly, abs pump.

my update for today is even the dealer doesnt know whats wrong with the electrical system. they think my ecu isnt sending signals out... dunno. and i didnt ask about the brakes because i have a feeling its just air int he system. but hopefully ill find out more tomorrow

UPDATE:

Just got off the phone with my service manager, and they found the problems, and i should have the car back tonight. He dont know what all the problems were, and couldnt ask the tech cause he was out to lunch, but Ill find out when I pick the car up tonight. So ill post the problems tonight / tomorrow morning.

Keep your fingers crossed for me that its not gonna cost me an arm and a leg =\

keep us updated

Final Update:

I got the car back last night, and everything is fine now.

Brake problem: A ton of air in the system, they needed to bleed my brakes 3 times, with the lines under pressure

Electrical problem: A GOOD fuse wasnt touching both sides. So when we tested it, it showed it was fine. But it wasnt until my tech dug around more, and found that the fuse wasnt making contact on both ends. weird =\

so all in all, easy fixes, so im happy. and the brakes feel great. I havent got into them yet, but for daily driving they are great so far, not over kill at all