Situation:

Installed my Rotora BBK today (front lines, calipers, rotors pads) & (rear lines, pads, rotors).

Problems:

I'm hearing a hissing noise from the abs pump when the brake is pressed

I have NO pressure at the brake pedal

Brake light is on (when when e-brake is down)

ABS light is on

cars voltage is down to 12.1v (i think the alternator has gone bad because the engine cut off when we disconnected the ground from the battery)

sunroof wont operate (its slightly open, and wont move closed or open)

checked fuses, one was blown (it was a 15a fuse, but i forget what one it was) and it was replaced.

- so do any of you know any problems that could of happened? what i can do, etc???

any help will help me.

thank you in advace

 

For the sunroof, press and hold the close buttom for a about 10 seconds. Same to the windows if it needed. The rest I dont'know

 

your thinking is right, but thats typically because of disconnecting the battery. and that isnt the issue here because i can reset the driver and passanger widown, but the sunroof seems as though it isnt getting power.

i dont know if all of this is linked together, but i know toyota/scion has a habbit to tie in fuses with other things. but like i said, i checked the fuses, and the one that was bad was replaced.

i will be calling rotora and my dealerships service manager tomorrow to get more info... but please... any good information is helpful!

 

Have you checked both fuse boxes? There is one under the dashboard and one under the hood. If you did, I don't know how to help, except to say "good luck" =op

 

no one has any ideas??

 

did you check again to see if it blew again? It that is the case it may be grounding out somewhere.

 

yeah, we double checked it and the fuse was fine.

 

here is a picture of the non-working brakes... hopefully they will be working today / tomorrow.

 

^^^^^ *drools*

 

that actually made me laugh, so thanks for the smile and compliment.


any help at all???

 

did u make sure to pump the brake and drain any air bubbles that maybe in the line. that could be the reason y the brakes arent working just a thought.

 

we did bleed the brakes, but we are still having problems. my service manager thinks their is still air in the system, probably at the master cyl, so im taking the car to him tonight. but i still wanna get your guys/gals insite

 

when u did the lines and bleed the brakes, did u start from the rear of the car and work ur way up front ?

 

sounds like you deff still have a lot of air in the line. But - it seems like you have more then one issue. Having power issues and a broken fuse wouldnt have anything to do w/ the brakes. can anybody comment on that?

 

Is that 12.1V with the engine running? If so you definitely are not charging at all. If it is engine off voltage then that is normal.

Sounds like a ton of air in the system. Sometimes you can get into a tough bleed situation with ABS brakes. A full bleeder system like a shop will have can usually take care of it though.

If it was an ABS fuse blown, then you would have the ABS light on all the time, but you should still have brakes, so that should not be the cause.

 

Bleed in this order: Drivers Rear, Pass. Rear, Pass. Front, Drivers Front

Exactly! That is what boggles my mind. Unless it was just a freak chance that something happended electrically when we were working on my brakes, and it was just time for something to happen. That is what boggles my mind the most.

I have a feeling I have air in the system, so it is getting a power brake flush at my dealership tonight / tomorrow.

again, keep the thoughts coming, and thank you all so far

 

12.1v with the car running. and i was under the assumption that the car woudlnt even start on such low voltage, but it did. and i know the gauge isnt messed up cause i have one volt meter off the battery (for my car audio), one voltmeter on my apillar, and my caps for my system both have volt meters, and all (with the exception of the caps) read the same voltage, the caps were slightly lower in the high 11's.

And this happened out of no where. when i took it out for the first test run, the voltage was around 13.6ish.

We noticed one 15a fuse blown (and replaced it), but I cant remember which one it was, but it was a 15a fuse in the interior fuse box.

and my rear breaks did grip a little on the first run. but after we re-bleed the brakes to attempt to get more air out, i lost all pedal pressure. the only pressure i have at the pedal now is the spring to pull the pedal back up.

 

there may still be air in the system

electrically i dont really know what to say, you checked fuses, changing the brakes really should have had nothing to do with your electrical problems

check your fluid level when you depress the brakes down.

when the car is off and you pump the brakes do they get stiff, or they still squishy? if they get stiff, then you may have a problem in your master cylinder

 

we also tried to bleed the brakes with the car on and at idle. and we noticed that when i would be pumping the brake pedal that the idle would be changing (you could hear it in the egaust tones and engine). It sounded like the engine was going to stall, but then would pick up, then stall. The process of the engine doing that reminded me of when the a/f ratio is messed up, and your engine is compensating for fuel or air (hopefully you know what i mean by saying that... noise wise).

dont know if thats any help, but it just popped in my head and i wanted to post it

 

-i think their is still air i the system as well

-electrically it boggles me too

-fluid level was watched the entire time, and kept full

-when the car was OFF, and i was pumping the brakes, the pedal was very stiff, and when we turned the car ON, i had alot more play when bleeding the brakes

if that is correct about what you are saying, my service manager also said i probably have air in the master cyl, and they will power flush / bleed the brakes