rrimportracer

i think it may be on the master cylinder like you mentioned.

air finds a way to get into the dunrdest places

kanundrum

just by chance, try switching or getting a diff battery, I know in my sis's VW we had a mad eletrical problem thinking it was a fuse and such but it was the battery.

BrEaK_AwaY

i just replaced the battery approx 2 months ago. its a yellow top so i can get another one free if it dies. i just need to find the recepit. but i cant see that battery dieing that fast unless their is an underlying problem with the electrical system

kanundrum

and yea I definetly think its mad air in the system. make sure u get it properly drained and refilled,. what kind of fluid are u using btw ? RBF 600 Motul?

BrEaK_AwaY

no, valvoline syn. i have no real need to spend the extra cash on motul, ill never get my fluid up to them temps to need it.

but yeah, im hoping its as simple as a nice flush, and my brakes will be good to go.

then its on with the electrical....

engifineer

The car will start at 12.1, that is the voltage the battery will sit at normally with the key off. 13.6 or so is the voltage requred to charge, but the batterys idle (engine off) voltage will still be 12V.

For the charging, you should check that all connections to the alternator are correct, battery connections are good and no fuses blown. Borrow a multimeter and read at the battery terminals with the car running. You should see about 13.6 - 14.2 V. I say use a meter because you can then be sure you dont have anything going on with your sound system wiring/gauges.

As far as the idle changing when you pumped the brakes, that will happen with power brakes, so that should be normal.

BrEaK_AwaY

we had a fluke meter too, and i didnt even think to use it because of looking at all the gauges in the car. i cant see how any of the connections are bad, because like i said it was running at the 13.6ish voltage on the first run, then all the sudden dropped to 12.1v. and the drive i took was very smooth, so i can see a connection getting lose. we chekced the fuses, but will check them again. for any that are blown.

do you think i could have an alternator problem?

jwaggz82

iTrader: (1)

^ you said your car wouldnt keep running w/ the neg terminal off the battery ..right?

BrEaK_AwaY

my car cut out when we disconnected the main ground from the battery. about 2 months ago we tested my alternator using the same method (disconnecting the ground), and the car kept running. But the volts were also aound 13.6, not 12.1 like they are now (or were yesterday).

my service manager is telling me that WAS a good way to see if an alt. went bad back when cars engines were more simple, but he is telling me that with cars today, and how much electronics they have, it is NOT a good indicator to see if the alt is bad or not.

but none the less, what were you getting at? cause im still consused with my electrical problem, and the brake problem seems to be air in the lines and or master cyl

b

MJVsTC

For what it's worth: when I swapped the calipers and rotors on the C5, I bled the brakes, but the pedal still felt spongy. Went back, bled some more, but this time I tapped on the caliper brackets and calipers to remove even more air. You may be surprised how much air is still in the end of the lines.

BrEaK_AwaY

yeah, well now im hearing you need to presurize the lines to get all the air out because of the abs pump. none the less, its going to my dealer to get it power flushed and replaced.

jbae1221

watching...
with your abs.. did you make sure you put all the wires back in.. i did that when i did my springs.. i forgot to put one back in and i had the abs light on...
also, with the brakes changing the voltage.. i think that is normal with bigger brakes like engifineer said.. my gf has a nissan and it does that all the time...
gluck.. tell how it comes out

BrEaK_AwaY

no wires were tampered with for the install of the brake kit, and the brakes shouldnt change the voltage. but i will deff keep this post updated

jwaggz82

iTrader: (1)

I always thought what you are saying ... if you take the neg terminal off ...it should run. Someone off the top of their head should know if when they took theirs off ....if it still ran

BrEaK_AwaY

well like a month ago, when i discounnted my ground, it did still run. but yesterday, it died. so i dunno =\

BrEaK_AwaY

ok, so i got the car to my dealership safe yesterday. and on the way there, i got to add three more problems to my list

1. car wouldnt shift out of park, i checked the fuses, and they were fine. so i had to use the over ride next to the shifter to shift out of park

2. check engine light

3. speedo stopped working

jwaggz82

iTrader: (1)

I have no clue what is going on - deff keep us posted - there are prob a ton of people saying the same thing .........

BrEaK_AwaY

yeah dude... i have no clue whats goin on with my car. but im hoping its all minor stuff that can be fixed very easily, and my friend and i just over looked it.

tjbartjr

Ugh, I hate electrical problems, they can be so difficult to pin down sometimes. Almost as bad as trying to pinpoint intermittent interior noises. I'm a little surprised at the method you used to bleed your breaks; usually it's done in diagonal pairs, ie, left front, right rear. Good luck though.

BrEaK_AwaY

from doing research, they are supposed to be bleed from the farthest away from the master cylinder, because those are the lines that have th emost fluid in them, and its better to bleed them first. thats just waht i read though... obviously i had problems, so i dunno.

and yeah... your telling me. it doesntlook like im getting the car back today, hopefully tomorrow. ill be calling them in about 10 mins for an update