tylers65

So I just finished swapping out speakers in the doors and have moved on to building a stealth enclosure for a Rockford Fosgate Stage 2 8". While I had the door panels off and the front speakers out, I noticed that the hole is quite a bit larger than 6.5". The Fosgate requires a perfect 7" hole to fit in but the RF stage 2 that I am using has a top-mount depth of 4-5/8" so I cannot use it to test if it will fit as it is too deep.

The Rockford Fosgate Stage 1 8" requires a top-mount depth of 3-13/16"

I am quite certain that I could fit the Fosgate in based on hole requirements. Even if it is too small, the amount to trim would be minimal at best. My question is, how deep are the doors? I have them all back together and was hoping someone would know before I go out and pull it all apart again.

Before anyone asks, I would be using it as a full range speaker. The doors are already dampened but will need to be sealed up a bit better. The back would retain the 6.5" while the RF stage 2 8" in the back would be strictly as a sub.

Any help/thoughts would be appreciated.


If you look at the red circle, this is where the 8" will go. The RF Stage 2 requires .20 to .25 Cubic feet of airspace. With the speaker in place, the volume should be at .23 Cubic feet. I have already test fitted the speaker and it has plenty of room. The enclosure has been wrapped/covered in dynamat multiple times to protect from resonance. Now I have finished the top of the enclosure and have both the inside and the top sealed with the cables in place. The Amp is mounted to the styrofoam tray. I have yet to run the power, RCA and Remote wires but hope to have it all done this weekend and will post some picks.

Here is the location

tylers65

I guess since no one else knows, I will pull one of the doors apart again some time this week and get the specs to see if mounting an 8" in the door is possible or not.

Here is the finished sub install...

xbean

awesome....

how did u make it?

any way we can see it uncovered?

diy maybies?

thx

tylers65

For the most part it was pretty simple.
I removed the cubby and got a piece of card board that was just bigger than the cubby itself. I cut out the basic shape and then started trimming until it was the proper size and used it as a template for the MDF top. Other small pieces of MDF had to be cut to fill in a coulpe of the odd shaped areas.

While the cubby was out, I took the time to put a couple of layers of Dynamat on the outside to help keep it from flexing and resonating.

The new piece was then placed into position. A few modifications were made the the rear facing portion (notched) to allow the cover to lock into place.

The cubby was drilled for the screws into the MDF in various locations twice because of the way the lip of the cubby is shaped. The first hole was drilled on the outer lip that was about 3/8. This made it big enough for the head of a crew to go through. A smaller pilot hole was drilled into the inner lip in the center and into the MDF so as not to split it when putting in the screws.

The top was then removed and the speaker hole was positioned, drawn, and then cut. then the top was replaced and screwed into place. Every edge was then sealed with caulk.

I drilled 2 (1 for positive side and one for negative) seperate holes in the cubby that were barely smaller than the speaker wire itself. I split the speaker wire down the middle and ran the + to the proper side as well as the negative to the other side. I coated te ends of the speaker wire in petrolium jelly and crammed them on in there. This made a nice air tight fit to avoid having to cut a large hole in the cubby for a wiring input terminal.

Now for the not so simple stuff.
Because of the size and shape of the cubby, the choices for speakers are extremely limited due to required air space as well as real estate for the speaker itself. After much searching, I found that the Rockford Fosgate P2D28 was perfect for size and volume requirements. This is the 2 OHM DVC model which suits my needs very well. Others my decide on the 4 OHM DVC or the 4 OHM SVC. I was unable to find any other 8" sub that met all of these requirements.

I found mine on eBay for $49 + shipping.

The rest is a standard issue sub/amp install as far as wiring, etc is concerned.

xbean

Wow...thx for all the awesome info.

Any pics of the install by any chance?

Thx!!

tylers65

Just what you see above. I alway tell myself that I am going to take pictures and document my projects only to look back a month later and ask myself why I didn't do it.

xbean

grr...

well i understand...thanks for the descriptive write up though

how about a pic with the cover off?

plzzz....

thx

tylers65

Dang. I went out to snap a couple of pictures with the cover off and decided I did not like how it looked so I took it out and pulled the top vinyl off and am in the process of redoing it.

So, here are pictures of the ugly inside.

xbean

oh....

i thought the inside was mdf too.....

how does it sound with all that plastic?

btw..looks good

tylers65

The plastic will be no worries with the wrap. I have not gotten the amp wired yet so I do not yet know how it sounds but I am very confident that it will be fine. I have used simular methods in the past and never had an issue. If I was going for major bass, there is no way in hell I would do this. Since I am just looking to help fill out the sound of the factory system, then it will be more than ok.

xbean

im actually thinking one of these:

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...969765,00.html

think it will work?

john08xb

Wheres the details on loading the doors front or rear with an 8" ?

I would like to put an 8 in front and the other half of a good component 6.5 set in the back doors.

tylers65

The minimum hole diameter for that speaker is 7 3/8". the max width is 7 1/4" of the cubby so you are a tad too big with that sub.

The cubby is 6+" deep so you do not need a shallow sub for this.
Just keep in mind 2 main points

1. You are working with about .25 cubic feet of internal volume
2. You will need to keep the minimum whole diameter under 7 1/4"

Also, you will want to get a sub with a cover. Mine came with a ring but no screen. The cover you see in the photos is a hybrid of the Fosgate supplied ring and the screen is taken from an 8" Pioneer cover of unknown vintage. They are still available ($15.00) in my area (at least 4 that I saw) so if you go with the RF, I can get you the cover setup.

The real booger of the whole thing is building the area that the cover locks into in the far rear of the car. The front hook will need to be removed on the passenger side and you will need to down step the top of the enclosure to clear the rear lock. You can see the step down in my pictures of the raw top.

tylers65

One thing at a time... I am still working on the rear sub. I promise that the 8" in the door will only fit with shaving about about 1/4" all the way around. The rest should be pretty easy. So if you are not afraid to get out the metal cutting tools and cut up your doors, go on ahead.

My projects of late tend to take a bit longer as we have a 15 month old. The sub install alone is in week 2 and I have not run the cables or dynamatted the floor (since the carpet will be out anyway).

I do not expect to get to the door project for about a month. I will keep everyone posted.

tylers65

Here are updated pics of the sub install...

xbean

dammit....hmm im really thinking about doing this if i cannot get the rumion side panels for the c-pillars...im hoping that comes through, might be a little easier. thx for all ur info btw...

new pics looks awesome, clean

when u have everything hooked up, let me know how it sounds

tylers65

Sub install is complete and it actually sounds better than I had expected.
I am putting 110 Wats RMS to it (it will take 200) and am more than pleased with the results. Not only does it fill in the low end and I can actually over power the rest of the system with it before it distorts.

Well worth the effort.

tylers65

The door cut out and depth dimensions are as follows.

Diameter = 6 5/16"
Depth (with dynamat) = 3 1/4"

There are very minimal 8" subs that are shallow enough to fit. NONE are small enough in mounting diameter.

The closest thing I found was a Bazooka Marine sub that required 7" for diameter and 3" for depth.

The one I am going with is the Kicker free air midbase speakers. They require 2 5/16" inches in depth but need 7 3/8" diameter so I will be cutting a little to get them to fit.
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...MB8&c=3&tp=111

I can get a set for under $100.

Once I get them, I will let you all know how it goes.

xbean

awesome tyler...thx for the update.

i will be doing this if i cant get the rumion sub panel.

tylers65

Let me know if you need any help or assistance.
You can get the same Fosgate on eBay for around $70 after shipping. I also found a nice install kit for $25. If you want the grill setup, I will help you find the proper parts to make it. It is pretty easy and relatively inexpensive. After all was said and done, I spent less than $150 with the vinyl and dynamat.