any expierences?

comments?

diy?

gonna be doing it soon and i want feeback

discuss.

yea dont go crazy with it :doh:

me + friend + fender roller = $300 fix :rofl: my friend and i went too far, flared it out too much and now its wavy paint is good, but its gonna take some TLC to get back to normal. :doh:

Some guy came to us for an estimate to have his flaired out and we charged him to do it the right way including refinishing. He said thats insane because he can go home jack the car up, put a bat between the tire and the fende,r and lower it down and thats it. I said ok then. :rofl:

Dont do it yourself, have it done by professional body mechanics that know what their doing.

i used a professional machine, and a heat gun, i did it the right way, i just went too far :(

You can try hammering it back. If you hammer it right you wont scratch the paint or anything.

Dont use a pointy hammer haha.

what kind of hammer should i use that wont eff up the paint?

and obviously i should use a heat gun again to soften the paint too right?

a rubber hammer duh.. :P

If your hammering it I wouldnt soften up the paint. I can go both ways, softening the paint makes it easier to shift the paint and peal it, keeping it hard makes it easy to peal. I never heated it though, Id get a rubber mallet (maybe 2 inch in width) and a metal mallet to put behind the fender so when you knock on the outside, the inside hammer acts as a block for the parts you dont want to push back. Be careful though!

what if i used a rubber hammer on the outside and a dolly on the inside?

i used a bat and some elbow grease.... works well...

Crowbar.

Does anybody have pictures of your rolled fenders?

Davedave - A rubber hammer on the outside will always work as long as you have a flat heavy dence piece of something on the inside to move spot to spot where you don't want to push in. Like if you wanna pound in 13 inches up the circle but you know if you pound on the 13th inch, 11 and 12 will also move but you dont want it to. You would place the hard peice of something behind 11 and 12, apply pressure, and resist the force when you hit it on spot 13. I hope I'm not talking confusing lol.

Does anybody have pictures of your rolled fenders?

Davedave - A rubber hammer on the outside will always work as long as you have a flat heavy dence piece of something on the inside to move spot to spot where you don't want to push in. Like if you wanna pound in 13 inches up the circle but you know if you pound on the 13th inch, 11 and 12 will also move but you dont want it to. You would place the hard peice of something behind 11 and 12, apply pressure, and resist the force when you hit it on spot 13. I hope I'm not talking confusing lol.

you wouldnt be able to tell the difference... mine was so minor i just needed to bend it out a mm or 2

So whats the point? lol

i bought a dremel and did it quick!
and i did a very very good job!
i cut half the fender.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyqAYcISe4U
( oh yeah and i forgot about the safety glasses)

http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/tools/fenderlip.jsp

http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/tools/fenderlip.jsp

thats what we used.


and no your lingo didnt confuse me. i used to take autobody at school before i switched into automotive. ill give it a shot on my own first :nails: im no body work tech but i know how to bang :P

im no body work tech but i know how to bang :P

http://www.avitable.com/wordpress/wp-content/plugins/more-smilies/Avitagrins/sex011.gif

:rofl:
Dave, you're a trip.

So whats the point? lol

to make it so my wheels wouldn't rub... isnt that why people typically roll fenders?

^ yeah sorry I wsnt thinking straight. haha

So does rolling your fenders push them out, making them slightly wider? And why do you not want to do it too much? Just a general question. . .

Like this...

http://www.318ti.org/gallery/data/500/medium/DSC03436.JPG

Hmmm... I 'm debating weather I like it or not.

thats not rolled rod, thats pulled, you can see the little flare that is created, a standard roll isnt visibly noticeable unless you look inside the wheel well. people who need it are the ones running wide wheels, with low offsets. and the only reason why i rolled mine was because i wanted to see if i could run a 25mm spacer with stock wheels, so that i can guestimate the offset i could run, because i wanted a really low offset wheel (work emotion cr-kai) and teh only way i could get them the way i wanted was with a realy low offset. so i needed to see how much i needed to roll the fender for it to work. :)

thats not rolled rod, thats pulled, you can see the little flare that is created, a standard roll isnt visibly noticeable unless you look inside the wheel well. people who need it are the ones running wide wheels, with low offsets. and the only reason why i rolled mine was because i wanted to see if i could run a 25mm spacer with stock wheels, so that i can guestimate the offset i could run, because i wanted a really low offset wheel (work emotion cr-kai) and teh only way i could get them the way i wanted was with a realy low offset. so i needed to see how much i needed to roll the fender for it to work. :)


SO question. . .I am planning on getting stern wheels 19x8.5 with a 35 offset. . I am switching my springs to TRD in hopes that I will not rub. . .do you think rolling the fenders will prevent this? :pray:

Also, isn't there a limit to how much of your fender you can roll? It would seem so. . ..

if it rubs then yes you should roll your fenders. and yes you can only roll them so much, you can pull, roll, and cut them

rolling fenders is pushing the fender lip flat against the fender. if you keep rolling the fender will eventually flare outwards.

these guys rolled excessively to the point of flaring
http://users.adelphia.net/~hkspeed/s14dish.jpg

rolled fender on the left, pulled fender on the right (bodywork required)
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m51/HKSpeed/fenderpulling.jpg

damn, thats a clean flare, i wonder if i should just pull mine out more, or flatten it out :(

haha thats nice, but i wish the tc have bigger fenders.. it would look lot better with bigger rims

that black car looks fresh to death! :D

here's a shot of my rear rolled fender. you can see the fender lip disappears as you look up the fender. its not an optical illusion, but the fender lip is actually bent in/flat against the fender. japanese sheet metal is thin, so you can easy F it up (flare the fender or make it wavy). i took my tC to a shop who had 2 guys working on it (one guy using the fender rolller, another guy holding the heat gun).
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m51/HKSpeed/APRwashed7.jpg

on my old GTI, i rolled the rear fenders myself. the metal is much thicker so there is a reduced chance of jacking it up, although the thicker metal makes the process more laborous.
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m51/HKSpeed/fenderroll007.jpg

the tools I used
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m51/HKSpeed/fenderroll008.jpg

on my 240sx I used the baseball bat method. unfortunately I have no pics. i only recommend the baseball bat method for people who've tried rolling fenders before.

so hks, do you think i should reroll them? and smooth everything out? or just flatten it down but keep it rolled?

so hks, do you think i should reroll them? and smooth everything out? or just flatten it down but keep it rolled?

i say keep it the way it is. any other option will require professional bodywork, which is good if you got the funds.

yea man you are telling me, MY body shop quoted me 300 to fix them

but i mean should it ry to take the roller to it again to try to smooth out the waves?

http://users.adelphia.net/~hkspeed/rolledfendershavings.jpg

the rubber/foam trim on the rear fender will fall off exposing bare metal. so cracked paint is inevitable, but luckily the exposed metal isnt visable. i applied a heavy coats of touch up primer and paint on the exposed metal.

yup, mine fell off too and i coated it also
but should i try to smooth it out before i take it to a shop :P

but i mean should it ry to take the roller to it again to try to smooth out the waves?

no. you cant fix the waves without bodywork.
this is how to get it fixed properly
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/CAPiTA/PB170102.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v645/egtij03/blueGLImetal004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v424/Tharding/DSCN0650.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v645/egtij03/blueGLImetalandbumpers002.jpg

daang! those fenders are wide! love the looks, i wonder if anybody did that to their tc

do you think 300 to fix it is a good price? for both rears?