I just installed a Progress rear sway bar, and when I assembling the endlinks I decided on making them the same length as the stocks(there was no instruction on how to adjust them and I figured they were adjustable for different applications). I did a search on this and saw someone's install with them adjusted alot shorter. Someone also mentioned to adjust the endlinks so there is no preload on the sway bar to someone's that had broke.
How should these be adjusted, and what is the difference with them being short or long.
BTW, I set the bar at the middle position so I could go up or down, but would like to get the endlinks right before I make my decision.

 

watching...

 

damn.... I got an email saying there was a reply and all I get is "watching" j/k

But seriously, does anyone know, or care to answer?

 

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread/2231431

Excellent discussion about this sort of thing in the link above.

Apparently, the most important part about it, is that your endlinks are equal length side to side. If not, the stiffness and lateral weight transference would be different. This would mean that you would have more body roll turning in one direction vs. the other... and a different level of turn-in response from one direction vs. another. NOT GOOD !

It also seems that you want your swaybar to be as horozontally aligned as possible, which would make sense given the general "C" shape of the bar. Then again, it's got some bends. This can start to make sense when you consider a lowered car, which would change the geometry of how the swaybar is aligned. You would shorten the end links in order to achieve the same general orientation that it once had.

In addition, it seems like some hardcore racers might purposely adjust them to account for driver position (RHD vs. LHD), while adjusting the suspension for cross-weights.

Wow... that "john" guy knows his poop when it comes to this... But continuing to search for a straight answer. I'm learning about this as I write it. How's that for a "BUMP" ?

 

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f163...stechs-416425/

Question pretty much answered by the SRT guys.

Adjust length so that your swaybar is as parallel as possible to the ground, which according to the SRT FAQ's, is so that your endlinks themselves are perpendicular to the control arms and the ground. (Straight up and down). In addition, do your best to ensure that the endlinks are EQUAL in length side-to-side.

Simply shortening/lengthing doesn't do much, other than bring your swaybar out of optimal operating position if done excessively.

 

Thank you senseiturtle, this is exactly the info I was looking for.

 

great info, thanks! time to properly adjust my Dezod rear links

 

great info. glad i used the search button... lol

 

quick question, would it be optimal to make these adjustments while the wheels are on the ground? (installation without jacking up the vehicle)

 

you can do it with the car in the air

 

the whole closest to the rest of the body is the stiffest setting correct? the farthest is the least stiff?

 

Dezod states that the rear suspension must be under load to install correctly. So, what I would do, is tighten just the lower nut with the wheel off... then put wheels back on and back on the ground... then adjust and install the top nut.

The more I think about it, the more I think it's not 100% necessary to achieve perfect-parallel for the sway bar to the ground, as long as it's close. It's CRITICAL that the endlinks are the same length, though. That's what leads to pre-load.

The hole closest forward, towards the tube-like structure, is the stiffest setting.

 

I would imagine that having your veichles weight distributed to nearly 50/50 (Left/Right) would be critical to the lifesspan of your endlinks. This along with lining up the sway parallel to the ground would insure no preload on either endlink.

I saw your post on the Dezod V2 endlink thread and you should check your left/right side weight. It could be that with you sitting in the driver seat and an already incorrect height setting could be adding a tremendous amount of stress to your endlink.

 

Good point for consideration.

However, let me add-

1) I'm not an obese guy... though slightly larger (200lbs)
2) That 200lbs is only an additional 6.8% addition to the car's overall weight.
3) I could get a passenger for competition events, but day-to-day, what am I to do... keep 200lbs in the front seat?

And why aren't the "weak" stock ones bending and breaking?

All of these questions are also for consideration.

 

Haha, I'm not calling you fat, but I know what you mean, its odd though. I've installed about half a dozen sway bar sets, almost all with adjustable rear endlinks I have done all while the car is in the air and have never had an issue. Just me though.

 

Necrooo.

My Dezod adjustable sway bar endlinks are impossible to keep the same length. If I set them at the same length, I can't fit both bolts into the holes at the same time.

Help?