for those of you that dont know...

i put an 08 xb engine in my 05 tc w/05-06 trd s/c kit w/NST 9.5 psi pulley, w/05 tc ecu and trd reflash.


just got it started today, and my A/F ratio bounces around, at idle its around 15:1 and w/a little bit of throttle, it hits 16 and even bounces up off the gauge's limit which is 17 i think...

averages about 15.9

what do you guys think?

faulty gauge/sensor?
could the increased compression of the engine not be compatible with the ecu how its tuned?

please, all input is welcome.

(Please no questions about why i put the engine in, where i got it, etc, only post relevant to this post. Thank you.)

are the lean mix during off throttle or high vacuum? how's the boost afrs? if boost afrs are lean too, you might need more fueling or tuning.. you have big injectors too?

from what i read in ur post it seems u have an 08 engine with an 05 ecu

theres ur problem...

the 08's are different than the 05-06's

well my boost gauge is showing 4 psi at idle and about 20 under a little bit of throttle, i dont think thats working right, dont have the slightest idea why. the A/F ratio is my major concern, but i really should get the other 2 gauges working as well maybe this is a problem my boost gauge can let me know also...

it is a completely different ecu though thats made for the 9.6:1 compression ratio engine, not the 9.8:1 c/r newer engine, i dont know if that has anything to do with it or everything to do with it..

there is definately alot i need to figure out, i am running the TRD supplied injectors.

from what i read in ur post it seems u have an 08 engine with an 05 ecu

theres ur problem...

the 08's are different than the 05-06's

okay, thats what i was kind of thinking, dammit. :tap:

any other suggestions are welcomed...

its doesnt sound right, 4 psi on idle? are you sure its not vacuum? seems to me like its a vacuum reading not psi..

not only would the compression be off but the cams are different too. you now need a 07+trd tune

im new to this gauge, it says 4, wouldnt it have a -4 if it was vacuum?

didnt realize the cams were different, i tried to research as much as i could before i attempted this, but couldnt find much documentation....

you now need a 07+trd tune

im probably going to end up getting a stock 05 ecu to match up with my harness and just get it tuned with the aem f/i c

what kind of gauge you have.. my old aem gauge doesnt display negative values.. anyways the reflash should have something to do with it..

i have the aem boost gauge the one that goes from -30 to 30 psi

i didnt know the aem boost gauge goes up to -30.. the lowest ive seen is 22.2 vac.. but i have the truboost

so that gauge is 100% correct no doubt about it?

(i mean the a/f r gauge)

hard to tell.. you feel poor performance while driving normally? just to let you know off throttle/deceleration/high vacuum (20 up on aem boost gauge) could show lean numbers 15 to -- but should settle back close to 14.7 when back to idel

i havent driven it yet...

i was figuring with the s/c it would be under 14. is that true? im just assuming...

First off Idle of 15.9 is alittle high but nothing to worry about, however pressing the gas and it going up is.

You need to take it to a Dyno and have them put there Wideband on it and check to see if your AEM A/F is calibrated. Did you calibrate your A/F gauge b4 you started the car?

Also which MAF sensor are you using?

what you need to monitor is the a/f in relation to load (vac/boost).. you should be close to 14.7 on vacuum (cruise) as you approach boost pressure afr should become richer.. i would try driving it as the ecu will adjust your fuel trims.. just dont go boost and drive it slowly and see if they will eventually get better.

callibrated gauge? no... didnt know i needed to.

Also which MAF sensor are you using?

the '05 tc maf sensor. i figured the other one would have different voltages that would confuse the ecu.

Yeah there is a sequence that you should do. I am not sure what your AEM entails, but my Innovate requires a calibration before you start the car.

i havent heard of calibrating the aem gauge.. or maybe i just dont remember but they are precalibrated from factory.. im sure its a tuning issue more than anything.. if you take you car to a dyno, you will have an wideband that can verify you afr gauge accuracy

Exactly, that's what you need to do, like I said earlier. Also where is your A/F gauge reading from? Do you have it in the 2nd O2 sensor bank, or did you weld in another bung?

i'm using a plx devices wideband on my xA. i never had to calibrate it. it works fantastically :D

i welded a bung into the s pipe

im actually scared to drive the car right now, i spent a ton of money on this project and dont want anything to happen to it. im afraid of driving for a few reasons, one is the a/f r and the new bearings in the s/c sound like they are going to break apart at idle. like i said, there is definitely more work i need to do before it goes back on the street.

ill check on the calibration deal online. i was just talking to a buddy and he said to make sure i didnt swap the lines from the boost sensor to the oil press. ga and vice versa. i think that may be the problem, as my oil psi isnt making sense either.

i also have a horrible power source that these gauges are running off of, all things to check out this weekend.


what is my desired a/f r?

14.5-15 at idle is what im getting from you guys right?
and as boost rises, a/f r lowers down to what? maybe 13?


thanks alot for your guys' help, much appreciated, glad this thread didnt get piled up with useless posts

edit: just checked online, the aem does not get calibrated. it is not needed.

you wanna be in the 11's when seeing boost

also like you said earlier i think your best bet is to get a stock ecu and get a piggy back and tune it from there

had my boost and oil psi gauge switched around, they read correct now.

im at -20 to -30 at idle on my boost gauge and 15.1 afr at idle, i took it on the street, got into 2nd, the afr went down to about 13 but i didnt get into boost at all

my supercharger is rattling horrible, sounds like its going to explode

im so fed up with this s/c, i am strongly thinking about gettin a turbo kit for it...

i think my afr values are on target, give or take a few points..

I wanna know how you got an 05 trd s/c onto an 08 xb 2az engine? Plus it is prolly the ecu for that motor and you have an outdated trd tune!

the tune being outdated has no relation to my problems. the only difference is the compression of the cylinders but i dont see why that would change the afr.

like i said, im pretty sure my afr is on target.

the s/c was rebuilt but i dont think it was rebuilt correctly.

what's difference in compression? .2!!! that's not enough to cause any significant issues. if anything, your timing would need to be adjusted to compensate for different compression. Your AFR's are off because your ECU isn't adding enough fuel. First fix your SC and then get a piggyback and have it dyno tuned.

does the supercharger make noise at idle? or only during boost?

only at idle it rattles HELLA LOUD

Then you must have something loose. If its not rattling at anything other than idle, something is loose.

been out f*ing with my car all day, took apart the s/c, look:

http://i42.tinypic.com/igg1ol.jpg

http://i41.tinypic.com/2ecqfiv.jpg

http://i40.tinypic.com/dfvddc.jpg

Video 1 (http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=2iw3kts&s=5)

Video 2 (http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=73ib0p&s=5)

the OD of the bearings measure 1.384" and the ID of the housing measure 1.390"

there is alot of gap between them, they literally drop right in and pull right out, the other larger bearings are snug in place... is this because of superchargedscions.com's bearings being too small to fit or is my housing just worn?

either way, im going to try and slip something around the bearing to fill the gap..

i dont know anything about supercharger bearings, but what i do know is that there should be no play. bearings are normally pressed on or heated up. when you do have play, shafts and housings get damaged. you need a machine shop to make a sleeve to compensate for the difference in diameters. or, you can try to find a bearing that fits your dimensions. its hard for me to say because i am not familiar with your setup. my experience with bearings mainly come from generators and hoist motors. but, the principals are the same. that bearing should be tight either on the shaft or in the housing.

i dont know anything about supercharger bearings, but what i do know is that there should be no play. bearings are normally pressed on or heated up. when you do have play, shafts and housings get damaged. you need a machine shop to make a sleeve to compensate for the difference in diameters. or, you can try to find a bearing that fits your dimensions. its hard for me to say because i am not familiar with your setup. my experience with bearings mainly come from generators and hoist motors. but, the principals are the same. that bearing should be tight either on the shaft or in the housing.

exactly, the bearings fit tight on the shaft but not in their housings. im going to see if i can make a sleeve or bushing today, im not the best machinist but i think i can get it to fit snug.

yeah same concept as turbo's, no shaft play should be there. As far a machining something remember its gonna be spinning at 20,000+RPM's. So its gotta be made very well.

20,000?

more like 120,000 lol

but that doesnt matter a whole lot because this machined piece is just going to be stationary, to fill a gap between the outer bearing race and the inner part of the housing

im starting with 2 of these as a start

https://www.yearone.com/images/parts/mh_ml/mj1025.jpg

might use some jb weld... im not sure

gotta do something cause this thing will spin and eat away at your housing or bearing or both!

yeah im not driving it right now, its still sittin'

driving my gf's car still

20,000?

more like 120,000 lol


sorry missed a 1, made a big difference

well...

re-miced the bearings and housing, they are a perfect fit. i think i measured wrong the first time. its still rattling at idle. i dont know what the ____ to do anymore.

is it because of the polyurethane motor mount inserts??

i still have a oil leak and coolant leak..

im seriously getting fed up with this pos.

Can you tell where the oil leak is coming from?

Same with the coolant?

The aem wb gauge self-calibrates. Its not like the innovative wb, or some of the others out there.

I have polyurethane motor mounts, and at idle the car does shake more than normal, lol. Once the car is in movement, its very smooth.

I think, once you get all the leaks fixed. Just have it towed, or drive it extremely slowly (out of boost) to the tuner.

Can you tell where the oil leak is coming from?

Same with the coolant?

oil is coming from pulley side, near the p/s pump

coolant is leaking on the tranny from drivers side of head, checked lines that go to the heater core and they are extremely tight.

I have polyurethane motor mounts, and at idle the car does shake more than normal, lol. Once the car is in movement, its very smooth.

does it make the supercharger sound like its going to explode?

for the oil leak check your crank seal. had one go bad on me and it poured oil out. cheap fix and relatively easy. for coolant leak, check the throttle body. the xa xb is a cable driven TB and different from the TC fly-by-wire, but I believe yours has coolant in and coolant out. Also check the thermostat housing too.

you know what i didnt even think about the tb. i thought it was the heater core, ill check that today.

thermostat housing is up front and its sealed tight.

i replaced the crank seal myself on the engine, ill double check it, maybe i dont have it in correctly. i have royal purple oil all over my pullies, belt, p/s pump, pretty much everything on that side of the engine bay is covered in oil. but its only when im on the throttle, driving it around. its not leaking at idle, maybe because the pressure is higher, i dont know.

if you tightened the crank pulley bolt with an impact gun, then I would bet that the seal is damaged.

Well ____ how do you get it tight? just with a breaker bar or..?

torque wrench. car in gear and someone on the brake.

check your service manual. should be around 90ft-lbs.

Can you tell where the oil leak is coming from?

Same with the coolant?

oil is coming from pulley side, near the p/s pump

coolant is leaking on the tranny from drivers side of head, checked lines that go to the heater core and they are extremely tight.

as for Oil, Check the plug on the back of the motor, RIGHT BEHIND THE P/S PUMP, its got a huge alan bolt hole. Mine was loose on my built motor from the machine shop and it leaked oil everywhere.

as for coolant def check the TB, prolly a leak in the line if its not tightened.

GREAT NEWS

just to finish this thread off, ive been working on the car all day and...

FOUND THE LEAKS

oil was coming out from the pulley side of the valve cover, gasket was ____ED up severely

and the coolant leak was from the T coming from the head, it was the hose on the part that you can barely see, the clamp was never tightened down,

got my bumper back on today, after my valve cover gasket comes in tomorrow she'll be back on the road in full force!

YAY