ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone know which line is the supply and which is the return line between the AT and radiator? I'll be installing a ATF cooler soon and want to place it on the return line after the radiator. TIA.

c0ld

Unless you're towing something why would you want a tranny cooler?

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

I'm installing a turbo.

Steve60

You are better off eliminating the radiator, run the cooler only. Just place the cooler for best air flow - the lines don't really matter

Without trying to write a long post http://www.jk-forum.com/showthread.php?p=851923

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Steve. You may be right about bypassing the rad but it can get very cold in MD so I wanted to keep it so that the ATF can warm up a little quicker in cold weather. Because the summers get so hot, I wanted the aux cooler on the return line for max cooling. I may be splitting hairs but I think this would be the best setup for the 0-100F weather here.

Steve60

"I may be splitting hairs but I think this would be the best setup for the 0-100F weather here"
The fluid works best around 150-160 F. At the same time you want to reduce underhood temps to make power = a rock & a hard place. You're not splitting hairs, it gets colder up here & stays colder longer. For the trans to shift properly you need some heat at temps below 10F. BMW uses an inline thermostat, which brings us back to your original question.
It's too late in the year to figure out how long it takes to warm to operating temp ( from very cold ) but it would be good to know how hot these transmissions run in traffic.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

I'm just gonna install the cooler the easiest way possible. Whether it's on the supply or return line makes little difference anyway. I could also bypass the rad but it's more work and still makes little difference. Given that this B&M cooler has a cold-ATF bypass, it should work fine either way.

Steve60

Yup. The end result is a larger colder mass = win

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

I took a good look at this today and I think you were right in the first place. I should just run new lines off the tranny to the new cooler and bypass the rad. That will eliminate a lot of hoses and pipes that run kind of close to where the turbo will sit. It may take a few minutes longer to warm up in cold weather but it should be just fine. I was gonna install it today but decided to wait until I have the front clip off for the turbo install. It will be much easier then.

What do you think?

Steve60

Go for it.

When we first started using a powerglide trans no one knew how much they would make with a high torque engine, they get pretty HOT. If you ran a radiator with a cooler you could over heat =bad, loss of power.... it's all down hill from there.

I would use a thermostat with a fan & adjust to a temp you like.

Can't wait to see how everything works out........

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I think I will. I don't want those ATF lines too close to the turbo anyway. This way they never get near the engine or turbo.

The install is gonna happen soon, come hell or MD T-storms. It's probably good that I've had some time to tinker with things. Like when I clocked the turbo and had to move the wastegate to the other side. One of the WG bolts was now rubbing against the oil drain hose so I cut it off flush with the nut and ground it smooth. I'll also put some flex-loom around the drain hose in that area at least. I've spent a lot of time educating myself about boosting and made a few little tweaks to some parts.

Question: what kind of hose should I use between the comp. outlet and the WG? I have silicone vacuum hose on there now but it ocurred to me that something more rigid (like fuel line) might be a better choice. TIA.

Steve60

"Question: what kind of hose should I use between the comp. outlet and the WG?"

Good one. I use silicone for the BPV on the blower car. I don't think there is so much vacuum that the silicone would collapse.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

After reconsidering my question, I agree. Even if the hose swells a little, it won't be enough to matter unless it bursts, which seems very unlikely. The more important concern is an actual leak and to that end I've installed plastic zip ties to all my new vacuum/boost hoses.

BTW, I find it a little odd that since installing my new 440cc injectors I'm getting a recurring P0101 error (MAF out of range). I expected to get a 'rich afr' error is anything. I acn only assume that the ECU thinks the MAF is bad because it's reading too much air for the amount of fuel trim it has to use. But if that's true, how does Treadstone get around it by fooling the MAF into reading even more air with larger injectors? I guess I'll see what happens after the turbo goes on.

Steve60

ECU therapist..... It's in the yellow pages...

I've seen rich & lean at the same time, along with a 101.
What are you using to read the codes?

If there is no management, you will get some odd reaction from the ECU. You don't want dangerous lean conditions ( I know you know this ). Bottom line, monitor the AF & EGT as best as possible.

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Luckily, P-Tuning is not that far away. I may end up having them tune it with a FIC but I still want to test 5-6psi on the stock ecu.

I'm using a ELM327 clone, Asus 900A netbook and ScanTool to read and reset the codes. I can also read the EGT off the primary O2, short and long term fuel trims, MAF, IAT, and a lot more.

At least I don't have to worry about running lean for now. Closed loop stays between 14-16:1 and open loop is off the scale (UEGO bottoms out at 10:1). I think Dezod was right about the oem injectors. Most peeps say they are 370cc but Dezod says they flow-tested them at 320cc. My 440cc's are probably a bit much for the ECU but should be more than adequate for ~8psi and ~250bhp. I still think the TRD SC reflash may be worth a shot. It should at least be a lot closer than the stock ecu programming.

Steve60

At 10-1 it's a little on the rich side, you're looking for around 11-6 for open loop.

Time to start logging! And, IMHO, the TRD SC reflash is a very good idea. The SC tune parameters might be exactly what you're looking for. The logged data, before & after the SC tune, will tell.....
Do you have a front mount IC? If so, there are some things you may want to know

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Apparently you and I are the only ones who think the SC flash is a good idea. I was convinced to try it but after hearing that it pulls a lot of timing, I'm having second thoughts. Regardless of the obvious boost to rpm differences between a SC and TC, the flash would almost certainly work better than the oem programming and eliminate the P0101 code I keep getting because my MAF readings don't match the fuel trims with much larger injectors. But since the SC has no IC and I'll be running a IC and water/meth injection, I don't want a lot of timing retard. I'm not sure yet but I'm leaning more towards the AEM FIC. Mainly because I can lean my open loop vacuum/low boost AFRs while keeping my WOT/high boost AFRs and timing.

I may still try the TRD flash and think it would be very safe but I'm less sure that it would be optimal for my app if it pulls as much timing as suggested by some.

I have a small 12x12x3" SMIC

Steve60

Apples & oranges. Hoe many people have been where you are now with a TRD tune?
With a blower, at the bottom end, especially with a displacement type, you need to pull timing out. The amount of retard is determined by what the ECU sees. The MAF only sees the air, the upstream O2 is reading the EGT - between the 2 sensors the ECU determines the AF & timing.

There's no doubt, the AEM would be better & you would have the option to go back to stock by removing it. The best tune would be the ECU itself, no piggy.

How did it run with the stock injectors? And are they the same as the SC TC ( there seems to be some disagreement ) ?

Other than the 101, how does it run? You're sure there are no leaks? Out of range can be sooooo many things. At what rpm do you get the code?

To the good you have it all together......

ScionFred

iTrader: (1)

Most people say that the stock TC/XB injectors are 370cc but Paul Dezod says that they flow-tested them and they are 320cc. AEM says they are 330cc. I trust Dezod and AEM a lot more than the average SL member who 'read' that they are 370cc and repeats it. Both the TC and XB SC kits use 410cc injectors. I installed my 440cc before the turbo and got the P0101 on the first gentle test drive. I cleared it numerous times and it always came back within a few miles. I get the code at any rpm, boost, vacuum, doesn't matter. I'm almost convinced that it's caused by the mismatch between the MAF readings and the fuel trim required with the larger injectors. At this point, the 101 code is my biggest problem and the only reason I'm still considering the TRD flash. I'm pretty sure that the reflash would eliminate the 101 code.

BTW, I cranked the boost up to 5psi tonight and took a test drive. Wow! The roads were wet and I couldn't get traction below 40mph. AFR at 5psi was between 11.5-12:1. I gotta get this thing on a dyno.

Ps; It was a pleasure talking to you last night.

Pps; Per our conversation, I looked up the conversion formula for cc to lbs/hr at RC Engineering. Divide cc by 10.5 to get lbs/hr (440cc = 41.9 lbs/hr).

3min3m2

I'm pretty sure they use the emanage clamp to clamp MAF voltage at a max just below 5 to prevent that code. Something tells me there really isn't another way to get around
this.

But i really don't know, im just hypothetical.