That may work on the pre-07 ECUs but my P0101 codes were set way below 5V. In fact, the code first appeared the same day I installed the 440cc injectors with no other changes. The ECU apparently compares the maf reading to other parameters such as rpm, TPS, fuel trims and if it deviates too much from the expected value, sets the 101 for 'maf out of range'. A MAF reading above 5V should set a P0103 "maf circuit high'.

 

Interesting bit of info^. Could it be related to you having an xB as well??

 

AFAIK Toyo changed the TC ECU in '07 and my guess is that it is very similar to the 08+ XB. I think tuning the 05-06 TCs and XB1s was a little easier. Mine seems to be very picky about it's MAF readings.

BTW, I logged my MAF with the stock airbox (2.75" maf tube) during a 0-100 WOT run and it maxed at only 3.8V. With the turbo installed and a 2.67" ID maf tube, it peaks at 4.3V. I have it clamped from 1.5V to 4.1V and it seems to work pretty well. No codes anyway.

 

^ again good to know...

 

Update:

Since installing my ATF cooler I've learned that I did it wrong. With most ATF coolers it doesn't matter where you orient the inlet/outlet because the ATF will get pumped throughout the cooler. However with the self-regulating cold ATF bypass type coolers (B&M, TruCool, etc.) the inlet/outlet must be oriented up or to the side for optimal cooling. If mounted sideways the inlet should be at the bottom and the outlet at the top. It would have been nice if B&M, TruCool, et al had mentioned this in their instructions. I had to call B&M to find this out.

I installed mine with the inlet/outlet facing down because it was the easiest and best fit. The problem is that the cooler has built-in restriction to encourage cold ATF to bypass the majority of the cooler for quicker warm-up in cold weather. Of course with the inlet/outlet facing down, even hot ATF can bypass most of the cooler and gravity assists it. IMO placing the inlet/outlet at the top is best but I had to do a side mount.

BTW, I also flushed my ATF using the DIY method described elsewhere on the forum. It works like a charm. I drained 4 qts, dropped the pan, replaced the filter, cleaned the magnets and reassembled. Next I added 4 qts of M1 syn ATF and disconnected the tranny pump out line from the cooler and placed the end into a empty gal jug. I started the engine and pumped out 2 qts, added 2 qts and repeated until clean M1 came out. I got 11 qts of old WS out and 11 qts of fresh M1 in.

Ps; the tranny out line is the upper one on the tranny. The bottom line is the return line.

 

Hi, ScionFred. Thanks for the heads-up on the ATF cooler install! What model B&M ATF cooler did you go with? Just wondering. Lots of options out there, and just seeing what you went with. I'm going to need to install one soon as I plan on adding a hitch. I got a little one on the way , and with two dogs, I'm going to need a hitch box hanging off the back of the box from time to time (don't like the look of roof racks...wife and I went round and round on that one). That way I can get as much room as possible on the inside of the cabin for the wife, both dogs, the little one, and most of the goodies (luggage, stroller, etc.) can go in the hitch box for long trips (although, for some reason, my sister asked me why I was going to put the dogs in the hitch box when I was explaining future upgrades to her this past Easter...lol). TIA the info!

 

Congrats on the little one! I'm running a B&M #70268 cooler. It's 11" x 7" x 3/4" and rated for 13,000 BTU and 18,000 lbs by TruCool (manufacturer). I got it from Amazon for about $50 with installation hardware, hose, etc. It would be more than enough for you. There is plenty of room for a very large cooler in front but even this would be overkill for a hitch box.

 

Excellent! Good looking out and thanks for the info and well wishes!