I searched around a bit for old topics on the Razo pedals, and haven't seen much beyond the basics.

So I bought a set of Razo pedals to have a little change of pace from the OBX ones I've been using for a while. I got the "Competition Sport" set (RP81, RP85, RP86). Here's where I am so far:


The accelerator pedal went on with no problems; I set it up to favor the right side so it's not so close to the brake. The mount with the metal bands is rather nice for a universal mount, and feels like it's holding tight.

The brake pedal went on without any problems as well. The instructions said to put it on with the stock rubber pedal cover; I did that, and it clamps on pretty strong with the retention bracket clamping against the pedal. Almost zero slipping there; any lateral movement would make the entire pedal armature shake around.

I ran into one major obstacle with the clutch pedal: with the stock cover, the clutch pedal moves all the way back and hits the back carpet (if there was a bit more light, you'd see an upside-down "T" impression on the carpet from the pedal armature and the bottom of the pedal cover hitting the carpet). The screws that come with the Razo kit are pretty long (25mm) to cover a wide range of pedal thicknesses. When I clamped the pedal on over the stock rubber cover, I was unable to get the engine to start, since the pedal couldn't go all the way back. One other thing that got my attention was the way the Razo pedal is about 20mm taller than the stock pedal, so the Razo pedal will hang down 20mm lower than the stock pedal, since the retention bracket grips near the top of the pedal when installed by the directions. The screws at the bottom two corners hang back 25mm, so they end up sticking back far enough to prevent the driver from being able to press the pedal all the way back.

I'm curious how any of the other TC owners with Razo pedals have worked around this. Install on the bare pedal armature bracket and cut the bottom screws short? Drill holes in the Razo pedal cover and the TC pedal armature bracket and directly screw the pedal on?

 

hmm.. i installed mine on top of the rubber still, and i didn't have any problems..

i'm unsure..

 

brian cut the extra length of the screws off, as long as it holds you shoudlnt need the stuff hanging off

 

It seems like you should be able to adjust the switch, so that it opens when the clutch pedal isn't all the way down. I haven't looked at it in the tC, but it was fairly easy to so on other cars I've had, so just a thought that might resolve the issue you noted.

 

I actually found an extra set of screws in the accelerator pedal kit, so I can try cutting the bottom two screws shorter, and roll back if I mess up. I have to find a good cutting tool, though; one that cuts screws cleanly (I should get one of those wire strippers with screw cutters, or just get my own Dremel).

I think it's interesting that SquallLHeart has his on with no problem, and mine gets locked out. I'll take a quick look at the clutch pedal armature to see if the switch is obviously under there, but I'm definitely shortening the screws since they're obviously going to hit the back carpet on every shift.

 

I eventually gave up on the "Competition Sport" set, because I didn't like the feel of the brake and accelerator pedals (they were so close that I really had to be careful to not press both), plus I was a little disappointed that they were thin. I didn't feel that I could get the clutch pedal on very well, since the lockout button on the clutch pedal only gets pressed if the clutch pedal is all the way down (and I had safety concerns about making a bump stop or defeating that button).

So I found this Razo set instead: "Formula Spec". I just finished installing it:


Unlike the Competition Sport set, that had the mounting screws in the outside corners of the pedals, the Formula Spec set use a band clamp for all three pedals. The brake one is a little tough since the pedal stay comes in at an angle on the left, so I went very tight on the right-side band and medium-tight on the left-side band (since it felt like I'd end up breaking the left band if I went really tight). The clutch pedal is very secure though. And if the bands don't work out, I can always drill the pedal faces and bolt them on. The pedals are also good and thick; they probably won't bend under normal pedal usage.

So I learned the hard way that the Competition Sport set isn't the best pedal set to use on the tC, due to mounting concerns. I know a few people that have the GT Spec set and they work well; I believe those also use the band mount on all three pedals.