Ok guys, I just ordered a new sub and amp. right now I am running two 12" MA subs off of a
Orion amp
RMS Wattage:600
Model:600D
Channels:Mono (1- Channel)
Class-D Monoblock Amplifier

The new sub is a Bazooka NOS8 8-Inch Nitrous Bottle and a
Pioneer GM6400F 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier.

I was wondering how do I hook the two amps up together?
I know I have to run another power wire from the battery and a ground, but what about the remote wire? Can I just tap into the exsiting one of the other amp?

Than what about the RCA inputs. Do I run wires from the first amps output to the second amps input? I do beleive I only have 2 rca outs on the back of my amp but i can not remember??

 

I would upgrade your power line and use a fuse block close to the battery as possible. Then use a distribution block close the amps, use a common ground and yes you can splice the trigger wire. You can then use an rca splitter since it is not a real high end installation. Your biggest issue will be keeping everything in phase.

 

different amps running different subs will sound horrid, like sciond said use a dist. block for the power, but ground the amps in different places, daisy chain the remote wires, and use the line out on the orion amp to the pioneer, but honestly the pioneer 4 channel would be better suited running door speakers than a sub. i would if it were my system run the orion on the subs and replace my door speakers w/aftermarket coaxial or component speakers and use the pioneer on them, also are the Ma subs single or dual voice coil? and are you running them parallel or series?

 

I have some sony explodes in the hatch that i wanted to run off of the pioneer and def in the future upgrade my door speakers and run them off a amp. The MAs are dual voice coil. I was having trouble running it thought. They are in series right now. Not sure if I should only run one MA and than run the bazzoka tube off of the orion and than just run the hatch speakers with the pioneer

 

does the box have one terminal or two? if it has one run the positive from the amp to one terminal, and the negative on the amp to the other terminal and run a jumper between the negative on the first and the positive on the second, that should run you in 2ohm depending on how the subs are wired themselves

 

Ok the MA subs are in 2 different boxes with only on terminal. On the inside i took a positive wire from one voice coil and ran it into the other one, and than had one wire going to the terminal. Same thing with the negative.
I'm not sure if I should even have the second wire on the inside or just run 2 wires out of one of the voice coils on the inside of the speaker.

I'm a noob when it comes to all this audio stuff, and its hard to explain everything in text

 

inside the box run the positive to one sub and the negative to another then bridge accordingly
maybe thatll help

 

Ok I think Im going to replace the door speakers just because the pioneer amp would best suit that I believe. Can you help me out what is the main difference between coaxial speakers and component speakers.

Also I have like i said 2 6.5 sony explodes in my hatch. As of now I just daisy chained them into the door speakers. Can I still daisy chain them into the new speakers when its hook up to the new amp. Its only a 4 channel amp so not sure if I would loss allot of power running 4 speakers into 2 channels

Than I'm just stuck with my sub suituation. I have the 2 12" dual voice coils, and the boozka on the way. Maybe I will sell one of the 12"s and just run one 12 and the 8" boozka

 

coaxial is just speakers, and components are a midrange woofer,tweeter and crossover, components are better if youve got the cash, for instance you can get coaxial kickers for roughly $75 bucks, but components in the same size would be $125-150 but would be able to handle more watts and sound better, did the diagram help?

 

If you are planning on running two completely separate cone sizes in two separate boxes without custom tuning each so there's a proper rolloff for the differences in MAS and F1, you should only run coax speakers rather than component. My reason for stating this, the components are for those who are really into optimizing the sound quality of the output. Coax speakers are great drop-ins that take little hassel to give decent output with minor amounts of tweaking. Looking to get more sound than just "It sounds really clear & loud" but rather "I can tell the difference between a violin vs a viola." Granted the ultimate sound system is what sounds best to your ears. However, for the sake of doing audio well, you should pick either the two 12s or the single 8" Bazooka. As long as the 12s are well suited for the amp you are pairing them with, I would ditch the bazooka in a New York minute. These OMGPP tricked out systems with glassed walls of different size subs are hyper-tuned for a very specific output (generally SPL@dash). Trying to mimic the approach without a plan will result in epic failure (imho).

Anyway, take my opinion with a grain of salt on how you approach the final result of your sound system.

I am quite curious about your daisy-chaining though... did you run the speakers in parallel or series?

 

From what he said I think he went series but I don't know how he went with the sub wiring itself

 

ok looking at the diagram that you draw me above I will try to wire them according to that except I only have one speaker terminal leading to the outside of the box and it looks like 4 wires should come out of the box. I suppose I could add another terminal to it.

As for the bazoooka sub, it will probably be just for show. I liked the idea of it doubling as a NOS tank because I wanted to paint it like a bullet bill to match my nintendo theme.

that on this


As for the door speakers.
It seems that the coax speakers will be the best for the doors. I'm not the best at tweaking the system and you said this are pretty much plug and play for a decent sound. I just want my system to sound decent, not entering any sound comp.

Maybe I will just run the bazooka for my bass and see how it fits, and get rid of the 12"s who knows.

I do want to sound deaden the car this weekend to prepare for it. I found a good write up on here
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/scion-xa-xb-1st-gen-ice-interior-1616/tech-how-gut-your-xa-interior-step-step-guide-67439/

He said he used some stuff called Grace Ice and Water Barrier he got at lowes. I probably will try this as well because I'm short on cash and I have a Lowes credit card. He also replace his padding for the carpet with a thicker one so this sounds nice as well.

 

Something else that is very cheap and can be had at lowes... it's called Peel and Seal. You can find the stuff with the gutters or roofing. You may have to really look for it though, most of the lowes reps will not know of it by name. If you are really serious about using the cheap stuff, make sure you use a heat gun when applying to a very clean surface as both Grace I&WS and P&S are asphalt based materials. Three layers of the stuff in the critical areas (doors, hatch, wheel wells) if not more, and two everywhere else you want to deaden.

The closed cell foam padding will work to remove the higher white noise coming off the road, but it will not be very good to remove the other frequencies. When I did this, it lowered the water noise creeping in from the larger panel areas. Another item of interes is polyfill. You should polyfill your hatch (keep out of the way of the wiper motor) and rear taillight cavaties. This will cover two of the three ways to deaden your car by mass/volume loading. The last bit might be too cost prohibitive for what you are looking for.

 

Ok I have a few questions. I went to Lowes today and I found the Grace ice. It was $65 for 108 sqfeet not sure if that will be enough to do the whole car with second layers on some parts????
Also with the use of the heat gun is that so I can conform it to cures?

I tried to find the polly fill but could not. I wasn't sure if you were talking about that stuff that comes in a can and expands after you spray it. Maybe you could describe the product to me so I can track it down???

I just want to make sure I do this write and any info will help.

Russ

 

The heat gun is so the asphalt heats up enough to get it to stick to the surface... just make sure the surface you are sticking it to is cleaned and dry. 108 squares will do the entire box on the inside (including roof, which I don't recommend with that stuff) in one layer. The spray foam is not polyfill. You can find polyfill from most fabrics stores... even walmart has it. You can buy 15Lbs for about $19 and it comes available in packages of 8Lbs if you want. Polyfill is the stuff they use inside stuffed animals. It works wonders as a sound deadener.

 

if your sub is monoblock it should only have one set of speaker terminals on it, just run those straight to the box, inside the box is where the split/bridge will occur, im digging on the bullit bill idea, find someone and get it airbrushed shouldnt cost much

 

No there are 2 terminals on the speaker itslef, I must have just misread the diagram. I looked quick. Yeah i have to find someone in CT that airbrushes. I might just take it to the mall if they do it there. Or the next car show becuase i got a t-shirt airbrushed last time.

 

ooo yeah I put pollyfill around my car at the car shows than. So not sure how this stuff will stay down though in the trunk, becuase it is not sticky?????

 

Taking a look at the diagram above again, I have 2 separate boxes housing the subs, they are not in the same box, so not sure if that makes a difference as well

 

You put it inside the hatch.