Alright, so a bit about my self and what i'm running.
I'm Michael Price and i love going fast.
i have a scion xD and i recently installed a T3 T4 Turbo. i have a waste gate, intercooler and BOV.
I also have a FMU and TC stock injectors.
i'm planning on running 6 pounds of boost but my MAF (mass air flow) sensor seems to be cutting me off.

what can i do to resolve this problem? i'm not leaking, turbo is spooling, and sounds great! but when my boost guage hits 1PSI my MAF sensor shuts it down to idle. does not seem to like the boost. i have the MAF sensor in front of my turbo. i can drive fine, but if i try to get on it and go.. just blocks it out..

can i trick my MAF?
or is it not even a MAF related problem.
no one makes a piggy back for my car so i cant get emanage and all that...

Please help. i have 2.500$ under my hood and all its doing for me so far is making cool sounds... i want more then just the Spooling sounds teasing me...

u don't need a car specific piggy back, u can pretty much use anything (e-manage, fic, etc). There might not be a boomslang harness if that's what u mean, if that's the case u might have to take it to a shop for them to hard wire it to ur ecu and that's it.

this normally an expensive ordeal?
my friend is willing to sell me his e manage for 275$
but there's no wire harness for my car. so i guess it would need to be hard wired..
and tuned?

sounds our of my current budget =(

You've obviously gone in a little over your head...if you can't tune for your boosting you're pretty much screwed...I agree with Carlanga, take it to a shop and get it done properly.

I just read your post on the other thread. IF thats where your MAF is then move it to after the turbo and see if that helps.

The xD can't "sense" boost since the compter it comes with wasnt pre-programmed and installed with a MAP sensor. All it can do is sense how much air is traveling past it and at what velocity. Technically, where you have the MAF now is the most effective. I think something else is wrong, cause I've never heard of a MAF sending your engine back to idle because it is getting too much air.

I'm with TRDxD, you may have gotten in a little over your head. Did you do much research before you decided to go turbo?

Either way, DEFINATLY take it to a reputable shop and have them evaluate and tune your car. Yeah, it may be out of your current budget, but if you're serious about doing it right you may need to re-evaluate your budget...

i can get a tune. but i need to wait about 4 pay checks.
the car runs fine i just cant floor it. i know the sensor is blocking it out i'm just wondering if there is a way to trick it like hondas do with the "missing link" adaptor
if so, id much rather do that for a low boost setup. if not ill just wait 2 months and drive like every one els on the road till i have the cash for the tune =/

i have heard that some people just upgrade the MAF to one that can handle more power? or will it still have the same effect as the current setup.

FCD perhaps?

I don't mean to be rude but, sad to say I don't think u have the faintest idea of how a turbo works. There's no honda tricks here man. I haven't seen ur other thread to comment on MAF placement and don't know the capabilities of the xD.

I know some folks used to run tC's on low boost and no engine management, one of them being a buddy of mine and he ended up blowing up his engine. Take it to a shop and get it hard wired and tuned. They could even do a blow-through set up if ur worried about stalling and correct air readings.

GL

wow........ this blows.... you def need to get it tuned .... have a reputable shop hardwire a piggyback into your car..... i dont recommend running it with no engine management as maybe invest in a wideband to check af ratio to make sure your not leaning it out to much at open throttle...

There's no honda tricks here man.

x10000000000000000000000000000000000000000

sounds to me like you are leaning out... i would definitely try the MAF on the other side of the turbo first, and get a wideband. if you can, make sure your not pushing the duty cycles on those injectors either, even though you shouldnt be with the larger ones.

I dont quite understand where your MAF is currently placed... infront of the turbo could mean a lot of places... is your MAF on the intake pipe that connects to the inlet pipe of the turbo? OR did you put it on the hot pipe inbetween the oulet pipe and the intercooler?

If you have it on the hotpipe that is why your getting the cutoff... what is happening is the boost is building pressure in the intake stream to the manifold, and making the sensor go "WTF IS GOING ON!?!?!?!?" and your ECU is responding with "CUT THE FUEL BEFORE YOU BLOW UP!!!!!!" BTW, the technical term is called fuel cutoff...
When you have the MAF on the intake stream to the turbo, you dont create pressure in the pipe, and the sensor goes, "WOW its windy in here, send more fuel" and the ECU goes "here you go"

actually might be hitting the duty cycle of the those injectors... it think the xd injectors are 300 cc and the tc are only 360 cc so you might have an issue with not getting enough fuel..... which case you will be running really lean.....dont blow your engne : (

If you have it on the hotpipe that is why your getting the cutoff... what is happening is the boost is building pressure in the intake stream to the manifold, and making the sensor go "WTF IS GOING ON!?!?!?!?" and your ECU is responding with "CUT THE FUEL BEFORE YOU BLOW UP!!!!!!" BTW, the technical term is called fuel cutoff...
When you have the MAF on the intake stream to the turbo, you dont create pressure in the pipe, and the sensor goes, "WOW its windy in here, send more fuel" and the ECU goes "here you go"

lol, thats the similair to the story i was going to tell, but im not quite sure where his MAF is... the MAF cant really read pressure, so it will have trouble if its after the turbo and you dont have a tune. however, if its before the turbo, it will be reading the near atmospheric pressure that its used to moving at a high speed... instead of pressurized air moving at a lower speed if it were after the turbo.

off the top of my head, the MAF only measures temperature and velocity then combines that with the known diameter of the intake piping to calculate the amount of air coming in. if its on the hot side of the turbo, its going to think there is less air because its moving slower (because its pressurized) and its hotter (so it thinks the air is less dense).

micro, can you kindly draw us a schematic or something to show how your setup is put together?

No offense to you Micro, but I think you need to take the turbo off of your xD before you blow the thing. Leave it off until you can afford a tune. And please keep in mind that its going to be a very expensive tune because you're not tuning just a VVT-i, its Dual VVT-i and almost no one knows how to tune those properly yet, since the 2ZR-FE is the first engine in America with it (with the exception of a Lotus).

And while its off, do some more research. I think you know some, but not all, of what you need to know to be boosting. You MAY be hitting the duty cycle of the injectors, but I don't think thats going to knock you down to idle, if anything you'll burn the injectors up. And if it were a MAF problem, I'm leaning towards that you're engine would shut down, not just return to idle.

But definitely, if you aren't going to be tuning it for at least 2 months, be safe and take the turbo off. It seems like you're having too many issues for it to be safe to have it on untuned...

Ok I read both this post over and the other one you posted on.

Whats the rising rate the fmu is set to? range should go from 1:1 to 4:1 you dont want it to be higher than 2:1, my guess is that your running super rich and thats why your bogging out once you hit boost... If its set to say 4:1 your fuel pressure is being bumped 4 times what ever your boost is hitting... so 4 times the amount of fuel at 1 PSI is more than enough for you to bog out. As a side note, if you have the rising rate too low your car will pull through the gears, but when its at the top end its going to have detonation, which is the leading cause of blown engines in turbo applications...

also the issue you have with the smoking is caused because of 2 possible reasons, one is that the turbo is mounted too low and oil is unable to reach your oil pan which is clogging the line and being forced into the engine itself.
The other scenario is that when you tapped the oil pan you tapped it too low and again its not draining out because the oil in the pan itself is blocking the flow causing the same situation...
So to fix that issue you want the oil return line to be tapped into the oil pan at the top, and you want to ensure the line itself is going toward the ground(so gravity is pulling the oil down), if the oil line curves back up in any way your going to run into the clogging issue...

And BTW, DO NOT remove the turbo, your doing good so far keep at it and be careful and conservative with everything you do and you will have a turbo xD without any issues =D

your MAF is not the problem until it gets maxxed out (voltage wise).

Seems that your FMU is the problem and without an actual Airl Fuel wideband monitor you petty much have to stop where you are at now.

Did you study anything on turbocharging a vehicle?
Is your turbo ball bearing? if it is you might need to tone down the pressure to the CHRA. Use an oil restrictor regardless of what others may tell you. Only if it is a true DBB turbo.

Most Turbo cars today, from the factory use timing as their "fuel cut off", it is a term that has been misused for a long time. Fuel cut off wouldn't make sense if you were boosting 16psi and all of a sudden there was no fuel because the computer said "oh too much boost".

You don't have any safety devices as the computer is blind to the boost, it doesn't have an actual "fuel cut off" for boost. What it may have is fuel cut of or timing cut for red limit. And that is about it. if it is a soft stop at rev limit it is possibly timing being backed off, if it is an abrupt stop then it is the computer shutting the injectors down.

Like Wellesly Scion said, For your other issue look into your draining of the turbo, oil restrictor if it is a dual ball bearing turbo.

A FMU is adjustable, 1:1 means that for every pound of boost the fuel pressure raises 1 pound. 2:1 is the same but the fuel pressure raises now by 2 pounds for every pound of boost. and so on.. FMUs are basically what I call "My first tuning module", very crude at best. you are possibly flooding the engine with fuel but you can't do much until you know what you have for an air fuel ratio.

i would do three things as soon as possible:

-move the MAF before the turbo
-get a wideband o2 in there
-figure where the FMU is set at

and if possible, check the duty cycle on the injectors, if youre over 85%, youre really starting to push it. its hard to say if youre leaning out or flooding it without that wideband in there.

have f/ic hardwired and get a tune....

took it to a shop in houston, they said the ECU is safe to 10 pounds! i have a wide band Air/Fuel gauge. boost gauge. and oil pressure gauge. they said if i pass 10 then get a tune. the ecu will feed the correct amount of fuel/air bla bla. they said my engine can only handle 8 so run 6 and ill be fine (tuneless) if i upgrade the heads, ill be a safe 12 but dont pass that with out a tune. so bassically unless im a dumbass and turn my boost up ill be fine. if i get a tune they said it would cost 1.100$ and the only diffrence from the way it is now.. is they could govern it down to 7 psi so i dont blow it. so pay 1.100$ and limit myself. or use common sense and stay with a low boost for now?
to be honest im happy with my 6 pounds! ill change some stuff around later


and well what was my problem?
well its not a honda. its a scion. No FMU... so now i need to sell mine....
they are boost ready ish i guess?
so im running 6 pounds. and ran a 10 Flat at the track tonight 1/4th mile :)

wow, if this is true, I'll admit I'm surprised. Great find. Keep us up to date if any problems occur, etc.

uh..... i think they are yanking your chain man.... im highly doubtful the stock ecu can adapt and adjust itself for that much boost...what are you af at at wot? and u ran a 10 flat in the 1/4... please upload some timeslips..... it takes alot to break in the to 10 second mark?

is the wideband hooked up? are you still having problems? what is your a/f ratio looking like as the boots kicks in? it should be heading down to at least 13, maybe 12 (not sure if the ecu will be able to do this). just make sure you arent in the 14/15+ area.

Hmm, I gotta see pics of your runs or slips too...So if i'm understanding what you said, you removed the FMU that you had installed and that fixed the problems you were having...Now your boosting at 6 pounds with no management what so ever and the car is running fine? I have been in talks with Todd at TT (even though we had our differences) and he sold the manifold that he had made for my car to a buddy of his son who owns an xD and that guys son turbo'd his xD...Now that kid is having nothing but problems...Todd says it runs like crap because he was taking the cheap way out and not running fuel management and no tune...Maybe Todd is not telling me the truth or something aint right here...If your right about this, which i'm not saying your not, this could be a good thing...

And please answer pickledchangs questions if your gauges are in fact hooked up...

Thanks for any answers as we're all waiting to here back from you...

Sorry guys... 1/8 mile.. not 1/4.
All true tho, ill try and get some videos, im running again next weekend. tracks only open sat night in my town
and im in the optimal when boost kicks in, only running 6 pounds. i like safe

and well. yes! i took out the fmu and that was it, no problems, 6 pounds, runs great! i love it!

the guys i talked to in Houston were saying a tune is pointless for my car because,
1. you get a tune so you can run higher boost! (but our engine only takes 8 stock i guess)
2. they can govern in so it wont blow, but they said use common sense. stay at a low boost, and watch my wide band gauge. but if i really wanted to they could tune it. they could. but the recommended i change the tiny internals on the engine and dual spring the valves and simple things like that. but that's more $.
and i'm really happy with my 6 pounds and running 10's on a 1/8 mile (for now...)
my lowest was the 10 but i was in the 10 range all night. did 12's at first. figuring out the best shift points

all in all tho, MAF befor the turbo, running 6 pounds, car sounds like a beast, does surprisingly good burnouts, and its all running great, check engine light, due to my exhuast (no cat)

one con. the xd has a sad clutch (from start) so i have to take off slow to around 10 mph, Then floor it and go!

hmm... you should be running better than 10s in the 1/8th... thats mid-high 15s in the 1/4. clutch must be real sad, lol. i think someone around here threw in an aftermarket one for a yaris or something and it fit, havent been following it really...

what is your a/f ratio at while running the full 6 lbs?

Good! Glad to hear its running good now!

Now we need an entire list of every part used for the turbo build =D

if i can get my hands on a stock exhaust manifold/downpipe for a good price, ill be adding a wire-feed to my xmas list and possibly be pursuing this myself.

Michael, quit driving your car and tell us the skinny :) J/K...Any new updates? Still running good? Any new problems? AFR's?

Michael, quit driving your car and tell us the skinny :) J/K...Any new updates? Still running good? Any new problems? AFR's?

... complete parts list? including where they were sourced from?

Off course the FMU was the problem!! Didn't I told you since the beginning that you can not run a FMU on a returnless fuel system!!!


6 psi with no tune is not that dangerous if you are using the TC injectors, but I should still keep the AEM FIC and TUNE at the top of your list of To do's...

Don't abuse the car on the current set up!! And please run only PREMIUM fuel...!!

Enjoy your car!!

Man he must be enjoying the ride...Hasn't posted up in awhile...Waiting on some updates...

hmm... you should be running better than 10s in the 1/8th... thats mid-high 15s in the 1/4. clutch must be real sad, lol. i think someone around here threw in an aftermarket one for a yaris or something and it fit, havent been following it really...


Something seems really off. I ran 10.3 at my fastest completely stock in the 1/8th, and in the tens the rest of the runs.

Well its doing great! i am having fun with it :P
still running 6 PSI, low 9's at the track now (reran the MAF setup.) runs much better as a Blow Trough setup, it was running slugish when shifting. i think it was BOV related. now its after the BOV and running much better!

and well i cant find the kit i got. but i got it off ebay. i did however post it on my clubs site back when i started all this a few months back
http://www.southernunderground.org/apps/forums/topics/show/1065951-my-turbo-on-the-way-

ignore the Turbo manifold tho. it did fit the car. but was to close to the fire wall. the turbo would not bolt on. which is why i made the headers into a manifold.

and i am currently saving up for a tune. i want new heads and i want to dual spring the valves due to how they float at high speeds. i got to 145 (about 7 months ago before the turbo) and about 2 months after that one of my valve stems fell. the toyata techs that fixed it told me that at high speeds are valves stay open due to heat. so for high speeds... we need springs to force them back down the way they should be.

since the turbo (and the valve stem problem) i have never passed 110 mph. next time i break a stem.. the toyota warranty wont be covering the damage..

any way i am going up to Houston next week to talk to a turbo company. they are impressed with my car and would like me to come up and they will dyno me (for free =D) and they want to help me with a tune as well. so ill try my best to keep you guys updated!

i was recently promoted and i am now a trainer with dish network. we just hired a full class of Techs so the next month or two will be a bit busy for myself.

Well its doing great! i am having fun with it :P
still running 6 PSI, low 9's at the track now (reran the MAF setup.) runs much better as a Blow Trough setup, it was running slugish when shifting. i think it was BOV related. now its after the BOV and running much better!

and well i cant find the kit i got. but i got it off ebay. i did however post it on my clubs site back when i started all this a few months back
http://www.southernunderground.org/apps/forums/topics/show/1065951-my-turbo-on-the-way-

ignore the Turbo manifold tho. it did fit the car. but was to close to the fire wall. the turbo would not bolt on. which is why i made the headers into a manifold.

and i am currently saving up for a tune. i want new heads and i want to dual spring the valves due to how they float at high speeds. i got to 145 (about 7 months ago before the turbo) and about 2 months after that one of my valve stems fell. the toyata techs that fixed it told me that at high speeds are valves stay open due to heat. so for high speeds... we need springs to force them back down the way they should be.

since the turbo (and the valve stem problem) i have never passed 110 mph. next time i break a stem.. the toyota warranty wont be covering the damage..

any way i am going up to Houston next week to talk to a turbo company. they are impressed with my car and would like me to come up and they will dyno me (for free =D) and they want to help me with a tune as well. so ill try my best to keep you guys updated!

i was recently promoted and i am now a trainer with dish network. we just hired a full class of Techs so the next month or two will be a bit busy for myself.


Valve floating is NOT related to the car speed... is related to the RPM's. They meant high engine speed (RPM's) not car speed MPH...

I ran my car to the redline every day with no problem at all... I can see that you would need stiffer springs if you were looking to increase the rev limit but you won't be able to run your engine higher than 6,400rpms unless you ditch the ECU and get a fully programmable stand alone ECU.

Is strange what happened to you... but then again... is not related to the speed...
The head on these late model toyotas usually flows pretty good and you won't gain nothing upgrading it... unless you attempt to run insane levels of boost...

But if your goals are only taking it to 12-15psi.... Con rods and lower comp pistons... that's what you need.
New fuel pump and larger injectors. Look for some 450-550cc and definitely a professional tune

good news is a found someone who wants to tune my car with a FIC system
any way.
i do want more boost! 15 would be a nice start.
where can i get Con rods and lower comp pistons?

and is that all i would need for 15 pounds of boost? that and a tune?

good news is a found someone who wants to tune my car with a FIC system
any way.
i do want more boost! 15 would be a nice start.
where can i get Con rods and lower comp pistons?

and is that all i would need for 15 pounds of boost? that and a tune?

You need more research into what you are doing. The way you are talking you seem to be just throwing your vehicle into the hands of another not knowing fully what all you need to do... Or what all needs to be done period...

i do want more boost! 15 would be a nice start.
?

no way our engine can handle that much powah. 12lbs tops and thats risking it. but prove me wrong :roll: lol

8-10 would be perfect in these cars :) But thats just me...

He is talking 15psi with forged internal. That is very realistic. Not very cheap though.

You would need to send your OE pistons and rods to some one like CP pistons for a custom job.

You will also need to upgrade the fuel system. New pump and larger injectors.

He is talking 15psi with forged internal. That is very realistic. Not very cheap though.

Thats what I figured he was talking about, but still. I'm not trying to sound like a d-bag or anything but it just sounds too much like "Hey, I'm giving my car to random goon #5 to work on, what do I need to give them?"

Again, no offense to you Micro, or to the place you're taking it to cause they could have a good reputation, but it really sounds like you are just jumping further and further into "I need boost!" without doing any sound research into what you're going to need.

btw. theres no motor support for our cars (pistons/rods ect)

yah only option would be to send in your stock pieces and have them made but that will do us all a big favor so they can start to mass produce them : )

tell me why I didnt read the last couple of posts before I made my comment lol. just pistons alone that you buy online runs around 500bucks. imagine if you had to get the custom made?

kd_kidd's thesaurus:
custom made = expensive :eyes: lol

but since he is probably the first to request them they may work with him as far as price goes... since the xd shares an engine with a few other cars.... so its benificial to them as well : )

Again, no offense to you Micro, or to the place you're taking it to cause they could have a good reputation, but it really sounds like you are just jumping further and further into "I need boost!" without doing any sound research into what you're going to need.

+2


but since he is probably the first to request them they may work with him as far as price goes... since the xd shares an engine with a few other cars.... so its beneficial to them as well : )

+2

CP Pistons
Wiseco
Crower
Arias

They all do custom jobs and supposing some one is providing the OE parts for them to measure it might give the first person a good deal.

im working on some sponsor ships, and well a few shops are talking about my car.. i think they may want my car so bad that i may get a free tune out of it, i have already sent emails to CP Pistons
And Bryan Crower Internals.

im just trying to find ways to make the xD faster even if im an experiment. if it blows at 12 psi (with a tune and aftermarket internals) then ill keep it low
but if i can run it at 8 stock and tuneless. im sure we can do more.
if not....
my friend has been trying to talk me into an engine swap...

but i really want to stick with the engine we have!

I still can't believe we can run 6-8 #'s without a tune...I still have my turbo, intercooler, blow off valve, oil cooler lines, etc. from when I was gonna go turbo sitting in my garage...Hmm

if that doesnt work.. start alil group buy who are interested. these are big companies your dealing with. so it wouldnt hurt to include other cars with our engines. (xd, vibe ect) maybe can start getting the ball rolling

xd kidd's 2 cents

Thats the plan, but the local shops are making me some good deals..
and i think there doing a good job at gaining my interest..
im getting a tune in the next month or so. and something els will be going in my car after that.

then ill finish with the internals.

so far i have not heard anything back on the internals.. maybe someone els has already sent some in?

Any updates? How's it running? Any news would be great...Thanks...

still running 5 Pounds strung! no problems, no lag, no bad sounds. getting it tuned with my income tax.. cant wait! ill let you guys know how it turns out!

any problems with the xD yet....

Cars still running great! still running 5psi 7 at the track. so far no problems. no tune.
but i really do plan on getting the tune this year, ive already got a aem fic waiting to go in!

microbg, can you email me please... williams.john.jr@gmail.com. Need info and where to start from. So far this sounds ultra interesting i was looking at trying to find a way to mod in a power enterprises supercharger but after having read this, now i don't know. i live in houston, what is the name of the shop that was doing your tuning here?

microbg, can you email me please... williams.john.jr@gmail.com. Need info and where to start from. So far this sounds ultra interesting i was looking at trying to find a way to mod in a power enterprises supercharger but after having read this, now i don't know. i live in houston, what is the name of the shop that was doing your tuning here?

I much rather go supercharger if I had knowledge of what supercharger and who can retrofit it. I think theres a way we can retrofit a trd supercharger from a corolla.

I've heard that too... but I can't find any hard info on it. And i don't think it will bolt up to the 2zr-fe. Wasn't that chatger on the 1zz-??? before they changed engines accros the board?

The charger i'm looking at is a Power Enterprises Centerfugal. There are a couple guys running them on yaris equipment. looks like the only fab will be the mount to the belt side of the engine, of course piping and what not...

Chime in at will guys I'm a tuner not a specialist...

I much rather go supercharger if I had knowledge of what supercharger and who can retrofit it. I think theres a way we can retrofit a trd supercharger from a corolla.

This is what i was looking into as well a supercharger would work nice on our engine a little more boost without the worry of blowin out the motor. :biggrin:

Ii jst like the sound:icon_mrgreen:

babe, (sawgunner)

i think what were gonna have to do is go with the turbo. not only that NO ONE makes a supercharger for Baby D plus doesnt Super run off a belt? where the hell would we put it?? where the Collector was? also, the Weapon R header that we're gonna get could be made into a Turbo Mani right?

I cant wait til we dig around in Diesels hood. :D
LOVE YOU!

my dad told me to hold off till tax season after winter cause sometimes deres less work over winter and possibly could use the money .. which makes sense.. prolly after taxes ii mite go all out. Have to be patient tho =(

u can buy electronic super chargers for any car, works the same way...put it in your intake hose and its a fan that pushes more air into ur car...not too expensive either

micro, where you at? You still boostin' the D'? Whats the latest news? Update us please...

where did you guys get your turbo mani for the xd??

the ones that are turbo out there are all custom work anyone can turbo the D if you have the money or the know how to fab up your own kit it would be nice if someone came out with a kit for our car :|

My fiance ordered my turbo and should be in in 3 weeks. if you guys want i can post the process.... ???

Yea since the original posters have disappeared :)

My fiance ordered my turbo and should be in in 3 weeks. if you guys want i can post the process.... ???


where did you get the turbo manifold, or the turbo kit???

yelosub, did you boost your xd??

yelosub, did you boost your xd??[/quote]

I tried, long story...Here is the thread: http://www.scionlife.com/forums/showthread.php?t=160709

oh i see, do you know if the xd headers are compatible with any other headers??

MICROBG!! We need you back in the mix, I'm getting ready to start dumping some money into my "D" for Project-Boost. Need to know how your doing...!

The only header(s) that I know of specifically for the xD are the Weapon R & DC-Sports. To the best of my knowledge (DC-S) still has not come to market with their's. No CEL eliminator required with the Weapon-R, this is the header I'll be using to start my turbo-mani. Custom fab required! DOH!

MICROBG!! We need you back in the mix, I'm getting ready to start dumping some money into my "D" for Project-Boost. Need to know how your doing...!

The only header(s) that I know of specifically for the xD are the Weapon R & DC-Sports. To the best of my knowledge (DC-S) still has not come to market with their's. No CEL eliminator required with the Weapon-R, this is the header I'll be using to start my turbo-mani. Custom fab required! DOH!

Take it to your reliable local shop to custom fab one. Log stlye will do the job.

On the header/turbo-mani, won't need to, decided to do a remote set up in the rear where the MagnaFlow is. Theres pleanty of room there and the constantly cool location will be a HUGE beny. Just want the Weapon-R header to have reliable exhaust breaths hitin the hotside turbine face, better flow characteristics, etc. I'll post pics when I start. If anyone has microbg's phone hit him up and get him back on... need to know whats up with his non-tune....

On the header/turbo-mani, won't need to, decided to do a remote set up in the rear where the MagnaFlow is. Theres pleanty of room there and the constantly cool location will be a HUGE beny. Just want the Weapon-R header to have reliable exhaust breaths hitin the hotside turbine face, better flow characteristics, etc. I'll post pics when I start. If anyone has microbg's phone hit him up and get him back on... need to know whats up with his non-tune....


What pump are you going to be using to pipe oil back to the oil pan? And where are you going to be tapping to pull oil from? I've got the turbo, just need to fab everything up to do the same set-up that you are doing. I'm hoping, when it is done, to only pull about 6.5 lbs of boost. Let me know what you're up to, maybe we can help each other out! BTW, where are you getting the WR header? I thought about doing the same, and deleting the catalytic converter... make sure as much gas can get back as hot and quick as possible.

What pump are you going to be using to pipe oil back to the oil pan? And where are you going to be tapping to pull oil from? I've got the turbo, just need to fab everything up to do the same set-up that you are doing. I'm hoping, when it is done, to only pull about 6.5 lbs of boost. Let me know what you're up to, maybe we can help each other out! BTW, where are you getting the WR header? I thought about doing the same, and deleting the catalytic converter... make sure as much gas can get back as hot and quick as possible.
On the WR header... straight from WR. I've been speaking with Chris Wanstrath, Sales Mgr for WR, CHRIS.WANSTRATH@WEAPON-R.COM. The pn# is 953-116-109, this link should take you there: http://www.weapon-r.com/index.php?act=view_product&id=1965

Pump and tap location... No idea yet on the tap location. I've seen a couple of remote set-ups, none on xD's, so I'm still doing research on that. The pump is going to be a unit from STS - Squires Turbo Systems. I may just have to buy the whole "Universal" set up to get the pump. Unsure if they will sell me just the pump. The other issue I just saw today not minutes ago, I had the D up on the lift, is that there is zero space to run the intake/intercooler piping from the rear he front without it 1.) being seen hanging under the car and 2.) getting scrapped on everything. My D is sitting low on DF210's. I'm thinking of having the under body portion of the piping bent/squashed to an oval for that length of the piping. Shouldn't matter at all, it will still be carrying the same volume of air whether its flat, round or square...LOL. Ya dude as I progress I'll keep you in the loop. I'm not a turbo professional, nor am I a novice nob, but it's going to be slow, I'm not a custom shop. I'm just regular ricer guy with money every two weeks to keep my life going. I'm gonna buy the kit in affordable pieces and when I have it all together BAM it's on. Scares me after reading yellowsub's Turbo fiasco though. The install will be gravy up until tune time. Thats why we need to find a way to get "microbg" back in the mix. I really done want base, I want bang! reliable bang. and it seems to get anywhere near 250 it's gonna have to be tunned.... Stock injectors?

As far as the pump goes, I'm researching using a small gerotor pump to get the oil out of the turbo and back to the pan. I've also been back and for with some guys at work (I work for O'Reilly Auto Parts) and some of our vendors trying to get a reliable one. The reason I'm going that route is because it can handle high-temperature liquids, and pumps with diaphragm can not...

Also, I'm running on DF's myself, but running oval piping didn't occur to me! Thats a fantastic idea for the rear-mount setup. I've also considered just running smaller intake piping underneath the car and stepping up inside the engine bay. I know its kind of a ridiculous idea, but if it works it works! The only other issue I can see with rear mount, especially with how low both of us ride, is air filter placement... I can totally see that turbo gettin thirsty on a rainy day...

As far as the pump goes, I'm researching using a small gerotor pump to get the oil out of the turbo and back to the pan. I've also been back and for with some guys at work (I work for O'Reilly Auto Parts) and some of our vendors trying to get a reliable one. The reason I'm going that route is because it can handle high-temperature liquids, and pumps with diaphragm can not...

Also, I'm running on DF's myself, but running oval piping didn't occur to me! Thats a fantastic idea for the rear-mount setup. I've also considered just running smaller intake piping underneath the car and stepping up inside the engine bay. I know its kind of a ridiculous idea, but if it works it works! The only other issue I can see with rear mount, especially with how low both of us ride, is air filter placement... I can totally see that turbo getting thirsty on a rainy day...
Rainy days... there are several half moon water guards out on the market that I have been looking at. Also unless it immersed in water (a puddle) I think spray will be okay as long as we're using an oiled non-gauze type filter. Think of the water guard like this, a coffee can laid on it's side cut in half with the open side to the underside of the car and the cone sitting inside of that. it would almost be like heat shielding except it's water shielding. I was just under there today, theres a bit of room, it will be tight but there is enough, way more than the engine bay. Also, there is a bit of roombehind the tail lamps, there are places where we can get it high and dry.

Small diameter piping... Hummmm, I don't know dude. Looking under there while it's on it's feet you can see the cat and flex pipe on the exhaust pipe, and that is in the recessed portion of the car. I'm thinkin anything that is not flat is gonna hit everything and it'll look HORRIBLE! It sucks, cuz we don't have a frame rail to hide the piping behind...LOL I don't know about you, but the highest part of the underside of my car might be 6 inches tall. The only other option and I don't know if it is one, is to run it along side the exhaust pipe for those 3 - 4 feet down the exhaust tunnel, and that will make the air hotter, so we'd be defeating one of the purposes of a remote mount and that's less heat, colder charge. I'm still gonna run mine through an inter-cooler, you don't have to, but it's gonna make it even colder. I gotta figure out how to crush the pipe without splitting it if it's aluminum. If the pipe is plastic I think it'll be supper easy. Just heat it up real good an uniformly flatten it. Lemme know what you find out on the oil feed tap-in and the pump bro, I would think a constant velocity pump would be way more effective than a diaphragm, I'm sure I don't want to use one of those that is stroking several hundred degree oil rather than flowing it. Also, the oil pan on out car is about the size of a toddler cereal bowl. Were gonna have to find a wet journal I think. Anyone correct me if I'm wrong please. DM, Go check out the STS Site. Good info there...

http://www.ststurbo.com/universal_turbo_systems