Brakes!
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 418
From: New York City & Los Angeles
Hey all!
Had the brakes done back in July 2009 when the car had 24,000 miles on it. New pads in the front, the rear was at 3/4, so nothing needed to be done on the drums.
This am, went to pull the car out of the garage. Started her up. Disengaged the emergency brake. Went in Reverse and the car would not move. Gave it some gas, and on the rear drivers side tire seemed to not want to move.
Put the car into park and turned it off. Felt like something was blocking the back left wheel. Looked, nothing there.
Tried it all again, and with slight gas the back of the car sort of jerked up with each slight press of the gas.
Put the car in drive, it moved and then I was able to move back. Drove it around the driveway, stopping and going to see if the brakes were gone or what the heck was happening. All seemed ok.
Car has 25,000 miles on it.
Any thoughts on what the heck the problem is? The car is in LA and it has been raining, but the car has not been through any puddles, but hope all it is some water.
Any thoughts?
Had the brakes done back in July 2009 when the car had 24,000 miles on it. New pads in the front, the rear was at 3/4, so nothing needed to be done on the drums.
This am, went to pull the car out of the garage. Started her up. Disengaged the emergency brake. Went in Reverse and the car would not move. Gave it some gas, and on the rear drivers side tire seemed to not want to move.
Put the car into park and turned it off. Felt like something was blocking the back left wheel. Looked, nothing there.
Tried it all again, and with slight gas the back of the car sort of jerked up with each slight press of the gas.
Put the car in drive, it moved and then I was able to move back. Drove it around the driveway, stopping and going to see if the brakes were gone or what the heck was happening. All seemed ok.
Car has 25,000 miles on it.
Any thoughts on what the heck the problem is? The car is in LA and it has been raining, but the car has not been through any puddles, but hope all it is some water.
Any thoughts?
Check your emergency brake cable. It probably rusted stuck, so when you released the lever, the cable still pulls the shoes against the drums. You'll want to lube the cable after you get it unstuck.
Edit: It sounds like you got it unstuck. Lube it, and you should be good.
Edit: It sounds like you got it unstuck. Lube it, and you should be good.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 418
From: New York City & Los Angeles
Thanks.
Now the next question is how do I access it and what do I lube it with? (novice on this stuff...)
Now the next question is how do I access it and what do I lube it with? (novice on this stuff...)
Check your emergency brake cable. It probably rusted stuck, so when you released the lever, the cable still pulls the shoes against the drums. You'll want to lube the cable after you get it unstuck.
Edit: It sounds like you got it unstuck. Lube it, and you should be good.
Edit: It sounds like you got it unstuck. Lube it, and you should be good.
It runs under your car from your emergency brake to the two rear brake drums. Starts as a single cable and joins to a cable running between the rear drums, so it looks like a big upside down Y. Lube any parts that contact outer sheaths, or that contact other parts. The area where the cable(s) enter the brake drums is the most likely sticking point, but so is the area where the cable enters the car. Use silcone lube. If you use the spray stuff, don't overdo it where the cable enters the brake drums. One thing you don't want is lube on your brake shoes. Makes it kind of hard to stop your xB. You can lube it inside the car, too,
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: New York City & Los Angeles
OK, so silicone lube. Will look into that.
Where inside the car do you suggest?
Where inside the car do you suggest?
It runs under your car from your emergency brake to the two rear brake drums. Starts as a single cable and joins to a cable running between the rear drums, so it looks like a big upside down Y. Lube any parts that contact outer sheaths, or that contact other parts. The area where the cable(s) enter the brake drums is the most likely sticking point, but so is the area where the cable enters the car. Use silcone lube. If you use the spray stuff, don't overdo it where the cable enters the brake drums. One thing you don't want is lube on your brake shoes. Makes it kind of hard to stop your xB. You can lube it inside the car, too,
I'd just drive the two right wheels up on a curb. I've seen cars fall off jacks, so if you don't own a pair of jackstands, don't ever work underneath a car that's only supported by a jack.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 418
From: New York City & Los Angeles
Would a pair of jack stands be ok? Did a quick search and they are like $20. Also, where would I place these jack stands, where you would if you were changing a tire or does it need to jack it up by the axle?
fwiw..my .02
it's when you back up that your rear brakes will self adjust..it's just possible since everything seems to work fine now..
It's possible
that what happened was, that your rear shoes were rocking to self adjust..as you put the parking brake on
thats why rolling forwrd got you going again
but it's a good call to lube up the parking brake cable..specially if your in a place where they salt in the winter
it's when you back up that your rear brakes will self adjust..it's just possible since everything seems to work fine now..
It's possible
that what happened was, that your rear shoes were rocking to self adjust..as you put the parking brake on
thats why rolling forwrd got you going again
but it's a good call to lube up the parking brake cable..specially if your in a place where they salt in the winter
I'd just use the curb. It's faster, and free, and gets your car up high enough for you to lube the cable. If you plan to do other work on your xB, then invest in the jackstands and a hydraulic jack with wheels.
Jack under the axles or a solidly built part of the car that will support the entire car's weight. Suspension parts are usually good, since they support the weight of the car all the time. Place the jackstands under similarly solid parts of the car.
Cheap thin unibodies are not equal in all places. That's why they all have designated jacking spots shown in your owner's manual (usually about 6-8" behind the front wheel wells, and the same distance in front of the rear wheel wells.) Don't try to support the weight of the car on the unibody anywhere other than the designated jacking points. If you do it wrong, the body may collapse there.
Jack under the axles or a solidly built part of the car that will support the entire car's weight. Suspension parts are usually good, since they support the weight of the car all the time. Place the jackstands under similarly solid parts of the car.
Cheap thin unibodies are not equal in all places. That's why they all have designated jacking spots shown in your owner's manual (usually about 6-8" behind the front wheel wells, and the same distance in front of the rear wheel wells.) Don't try to support the weight of the car on the unibody anywhere other than the designated jacking points. If you do it wrong, the body may collapse there.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: New York City & Los Angeles
Wow guys, thanks. Really.
Years ago I had access to a garage and never had to worry about this stuff and the fact they were old school muscle cars ('70 Mustang and a '67 Shelby GT500), they were a ton simpler to DIY. When I got my first new car, opened the hood, saw all the electronics and that was the end of me as a mechanic.. (Trans Am).
Years ago I had access to a garage and never had to worry about this stuff and the fact they were old school muscle cars ('70 Mustang and a '67 Shelby GT500), they were a ton simpler to DIY. When I got my first new car, opened the hood, saw all the electronics and that was the end of me as a mechanic.. (Trans Am).
Is it just a cold weather thing?
I had the same problem once last year. I let the car warm up for quite a while and then it was able to move.
When I worked in a prep center for a new car dealer, the other workers told me not to engage the emergency brake at all with the cold weather.
My xB does not see a lot of action so I just don't engage the E-brake in the cold weather.
Oh, your car is in LA? Now I seem dumb. Belay my last.....
I had the same problem once last year. I let the car warm up for quite a while and then it was able to move.
When I worked in a prep center for a new car dealer, the other workers told me not to engage the emergency brake at all with the cold weather.
My xB does not see a lot of action so I just don't engage the E-brake in the cold weather.
Oh, your car is in LA? Now I seem dumb. Belay my last.....
If you don't use the parking brake much the linkage and cables can get a little sticky. In damp weather the brake shoes can get wet and if not dried out before you park it with the hand brake on the wet shoes will rust to the drum and stick like glue. Just rocking the car forward and back will break them loose without damage usually and you may hear a little grinding when you use the brakes next or they may grab a little until the rust rubs off and the shoes dry out. You may want to work your hand brake a bunch of times to keep it loosened up. Drive slowly and pull and release it and note the braking action . . . it should roll freely when released.
also if ya had the brakes done they might have adjusted the e-brake to tight.i did this in my integra and the rears locked up on me.they way i knew was because the e-brake handle was very hard and tight..just another for you to think about after doing or having the brakes done.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 418
From: New York City & Los Angeles
No, don't feel dumb at all.
I live on both coasts now, so the xB has been out here for the last few months.
But my screen name would absolutely imply that it is back in Brooklyn. Unfortunately it is now in LA (still donning NYS plates!).
Anyway, all appears ok, not sure what the heck happened, but will get to the brakes and the freaking back passenger door thing in the next week.
You guys are truly the best.
I live on both coasts now, so the xB has been out here for the last few months.
But my screen name would absolutely imply that it is back in Brooklyn. Unfortunately it is now in LA (still donning NYS plates!).
Anyway, all appears ok, not sure what the heck happened, but will get to the brakes and the freaking back passenger door thing in the next week.
You guys are truly the best.
Is it just a cold weather thing?
I had the same problem once last year. I let the car warm up for quite a while and then it was able to move.
When I worked in a prep center for a new car dealer, the other workers told me not to engage the emergency brake at all with the cold weather.
My xB does not see a lot of action so I just don't engage the E-brake in the cold weather.
Oh, your car is in LA? Now I seem dumb. Belay my last.....
I had the same problem once last year. I let the car warm up for quite a while and then it was able to move.
When I worked in a prep center for a new car dealer, the other workers told me not to engage the emergency brake at all with the cold weather.
My xB does not see a lot of action so I just don't engage the E-brake in the cold weather.
Oh, your car is in LA? Now I seem dumb. Belay my last.....
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