I keep reading that drive-by-wire vehicles are impossible to adjust throttle...

Is there anything...?

I need the vehicle to be able to be revved to 2,000rpm in park without me in it.

If there is not a way.. i will have to make a heavy-weighted clamp in the floor to keep pressure on the pedal which is kinda tacky..

why would you want to rev it to 2K while in park by itself? are you in some sort of SPL contest? if so, isn't 1400 good enough?

I would like to know too. When I turn my AC on i drop to 600 or something. It's the to point where the car is shaky and me no likey. I expect the revs to go down but do you guys think there is a draw or something of the sort?

the OP sounds like he needs the car to warm up, at least i think so, lol

yea i was wonder the same thing, my car idles really low (around 500rmp) and the exhaust sounds great cus its bearly putten, but the engine and supercharger arent liking those rmps to much, itll rattle and shake a little, but if the idle is alittle higher its fine.my cars a manual btw, any way to turn the idle up?

it is for competition.. i didnt know that was relevant to the question though...

In park or at idle the car is always seeking the lowest RPM's to conserve fuel. The tC is a sports economy car.

As far as I know you would need to have at least a piggy back ECU tuner to be able to adjust such settings.

yea, you're going to need some sort of throttle prop rod that holds the pedal down. easiest and best way IMO. tacky shouldn't really apply when you're trying to more than double your idling RPM's

All electronic, only way is manual, unless you can hack the sensor.

ok guys thanks.

Competition is limited to 2krpm maximum.

Typical alternators try to achieve maximum output at 1800rpm ENGINE but most actually do it around 2500rpm(for driving) and can get a couple extra amps out of some at 2800rpm but 2000rpm is the limit regardless of what sanction it is running it.

wow, if you're to the point where you are trying to raise the rpm limit to increase sound..........








i would love to hear your system!

um.. actually it's a matter of common sense more than trying to get louder.

alternators have a idle and max rated output power.

I tested the Scion tC's alt to do a maximum of 58A at idle and 109A at 2,000rpm.

My car pulls 9A with just the car running and about 13A with lights on.

that leaves you with about 45A of maximum play area at idle rpms or 96A at full tilt.

45A at idle on average current pull is about a 900w Class d amp. If this were an amp used for mids\highs, it would more than likely be Class AB which can be rated as low as 600w and still pull that much current.

So, if you exceed your alt's capability at idle, the reserve is being pulled out of your battery(ies). that's bad for prolong use.

Even if you suppress the load, the alt will still be working to recharge your battery(ies) and run the car AND run the stereo system if it's still jammin.

This leads to the Bridge Rectifier inside the alt overheating eventually overtime and killing the alternator.

Now, at 2krpm or higher, you'd be able to run about a 2,000w amp Class d on average just fine but everytime u keep it cranked and drop below that 2krpm line, it might be commin out of your battery instead...

It's best to have remote voltmeters to monitor various parts of the car when aftermarket loads are put on it to make sure nothing is under stress.

I run over 20,000w of power and soon be over 30,000w as soon as I convert the Scion tC into an 18v electrical system.

WOW, SPL or SQ contests have evolved a lot since I remember (back when it used to be IASCA...) I don't remember seeing anything over 10,000w back then... Are you competing in SPL or for SQ? I would've never thought the tC to be a good platform to compete with due to the glass roof, but like I said, it's been a while...

I was told you cant adjust the idel with even a piggyback unit.

You are correct, even with a standalone AEM... but i just wanted to make sure there wasn't some hacked up method floatin around i didnt know about.

Yea competition is crazy lately...

And the glass roof HELPS, not hurts! Believe that?

Sound Pressure likes two things-
Smooth surface
Reflective surface

Glass fits into that category.

I've tested and tested over and over and bracing ANY part of the car's glass decreases sound pressure.

It's not a matter of allowing the sunroof to flex, but cars that do NOT have sunroofs hurt more.

Why?

Because the cutout for the sunroof acts as a reinforcement to the top of the car.
So by not having a sunroof in a vehicle, it's a solid sheet of thin ___ sheet metal that will bow, etc...

So yes, our tCs actually are good for other hobbies...

Good to see that the competitions are getting more... competitive...

Not to throw the subject way off base, but does it become difficult to keep the air from leaking out of the seams around the sunroof?

I have a Spec (single glass panel that doesn't open) so would that mean that my tC has an advantage?

I've cracked the windshield of my '93 4Runner in a competition and I found out that glass is rather expensive after a while, so I never thought about building the tC for that purpose... but it's never too late to start again... lol...

my sunroof flexes enough to cause visible gaps during flex to release air but i've put 80 lb bags of concrete on it to simulate someone resting on top and i've also taped up around all the seems of the sunroof and both methods reduce pressure!

The car simply wants to breathe through the sunroof but do not open it!

The sunroof is tempered AND since it rests on loose support arms, it will appear to be shaking and flexing violently but there is nothing to worry, it's just the support arms moving back and forth. The glass moves with it so it's not like it's about to break.