Well, I found this product that makes the Autometer (and some others) narrow band AFR meters accurate on wideband 02 sensors. You need 2 items, wideband controller and then the converter. I think I may go this route for cosmetic reasons as long as it's accurate....and it appears to be. ANy thoughts.

First, you need the M-Series Wideband controller ($250 to $300)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PLX-Devices-M-300-Wide-Band-Oxygen-Sensor-Tuning-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33553QQitemZ7999267352QQrdZ1
And then the converter ($40)

http://www.plxdevices.com/NB_WB_GaugeConv.htm



PLX DEVICES M-300 WIDE BAND OXYGEN SENSOR KIT
Bosch controller with display

Key Features:

Works with standalone engine management systems.
Accurate Air/Fuel Ratio <0.1, Fast Reaction
Advanced Sensor Self Calibration Circuitry. No manual calibration required.
Wideband LINEAR Analog Output (0-5V)
Narrowband Analog Output (0-1V)
Replace your stock Narrowband sensor.
32 MHz Advanced DSP Technology
Built in Resettable Fuse (No external fuse needed)
Sensor soft start circuitry, prolongs o2 sensor life.
Compact and Professional Design
"Plug and Play" Installation
ISO 9002 Certified Assembly

Introduction:
Affordable, accurate, compact, feature packed, and simple to use are only a few words that describe our M-Series Wideband Oxygen Sensor Controllers. Designed in the heart of Silicon Valley, California with the highest technological standards, we bring you three wideband oxygen sensor controllers that meets the needs of every automotive tuner!


Description:
The M-Series Wideband Oxygen Sensor Controllers are extremely simple to use and to setup. They do not require complicated sensor calibration procedures nor do they require any confusing software setup. Simply, connect the power wires to a 12V source, snap the sensor wire harness with the oxygen sensor and you're ready to start measuring your automobile's air/fuel ratio within minutes! PLX Devices widebands are guaranteed accurate to 0.1AFR with proven technology which yields extremely fast reaction times.


What's included in the kit?:
M-Series Wideband Oxygen Sensor Controller unit.
Wideband oxygen sensor
8 ft plug and play wire harness for connection between the M-Series Controller and the oxygen sensor.
4 ft wires brought out from the M-Series Controller for connections to power and analog output signals.
Detailed installation instructions.


Then the PLX converter ($40). Each adjacent LED corresponds to exactly a change of 0.5:1 air/fuel ratio

http://www.plxdevices.com/NB_WB_GaugeConv.htm

if our stock wideband sensor sends a 0-5v output then maybe all that is needed is a controller and guage. i havnt tested the output because im a long way from going turbo. i couldnt find a manufacturer stamp on the sensor itself, but since most kits come with a sensor when you buy the controller it may just be easier to put the new sensor in a new bung and not even mess with the converter.

if our stock wideband sensor sends a 0-5v output then maybe all that is needed is a controller and guage. i havnt tested the output because im a long way from going turbo. i couldnt find a manufacturer stamp on the sensor itself, but since most kits come with a sensor when you buy the controller it may just be easier to put the new sensor in a new bung and not even mess with the converter.

Yea, I see what you're saying. But if anyone wants to use their narrowband gauge, then the converter will allow this to work. My problem is I already have the gauge and it's part of a series, so changing out the gauge would suck (not to mention the $ I already wasted on it). I will need a wideband controller either way I go, so for $40, I can get the converter and use my series gauge.

Let me ask this, if I just added a narrow band sensor in a new bung, how accurate is the narrow band AFR gauge for tuning? I figured the wideband would be more accurate at 0.5:1 air/fuel ratio steps.

very good find sciondad... i might be able to get my CF autometer AFR gauge afterall....

very good find sciondad... i might be able to get my CF autometer AFR gauge afterall....

Yup, when I found this I figured myself, you and several others could possibly use this to keep the series gauges.

I'll give it a few more hours to gel and see if there is any negative that I might not see.

I used the same components in my 2002 S/C Tacoma. Worked just fine. The only problem I had, is that it is hard to remeber what each light means, in relationship to the AFR number. I had my M-300 in my glovebox and my Autometer gauge on my A-pillar mount. Check out URDUSA.com If you wanted too, you could go with the M-300 with no dispay, it might save you some money, if you are going to put it somewhere out of view anyway.

I used the same components in my 2002 S/C Tacoma. Worked just fine. The only problem I had, is that it is hard to remeber what each light means, in relationship to the AFR number. I had my M-300 in my glovebox and my Autometer gauge on my A-pillar mount. Check out URDUSA.com If you wanted too, you could go with the M-300 with no dispay, it might save you some money, if you are going to put it somewhere out of view anyway.

Sweet, so you have some experience with it? Yea, I was going to hide the M-300 anyway like you said. I'll check out the M-250 or the M-200 with no display.

Edit - Well, they want $290 for the M-200 there (no 02 sensor included) and on Ebay you can get the M-300 with display and wideband 02 sensor. MIght as well use the Bosch display to reference for tuning.

you could always mount it under the hood as a engine display piece couldnt you? turn the engie on for a little at a show, see the numbers go crazy, people smile. i figure, if you gotta get the display... might as well do something with it....

if you end up doing this sciondad, please write up a DIY, reviews, pics, then whole 10 yards... plus an extra point. i would be very helpful.

your already on the right track with information.... keep it goin! :clap:

Nice find ScionDad.

wow...so expensive to get a accurate AFR. Can this be done under the hood for cheaper or is it just a matter of getting the expensive equipment to go wideband?

I had this M300 and the narrow/wideband convert in my IS w/ the defi gauges. Worked great. None of the stupid ricer a/f gauges that have lights swapping back and forth

Actually, I still have the converter... only costs $30

Has anyone looked at the OEM sensor to see what it does? It isn't an O2 sensor, it's a wideband sensor with an output from 2.2 to 4.2v. The second sensor (to determine if the cat is working) is a conventional narrowband.

From page EG-41 of the New Car Features Manual (NCF264U):
1. General
The planar type A/F sensor sues alumina, which excels in heat conductivity and insulation, to integrate a sensor element with a heater, thus improving the warm-up performance (warm-up time: approx. 10 seconds) of the sensor.

2. Characteristics
The heated oxygen sensor and the air fuel ratio sensor differ in output characteristics.
-The heated oxygen sensor is characterized by a sudden change in its output voltage at the threshold of the stoichiometric air fuel ratio (14.7:1).
-the air fuel ratio sensor outputs a voltage that is approximately proportionate to the existing air fuel ratio by converting the oxygen density to the voltage.
As a result, the detection precision of the air fuel ratio has been improved.

This book is one of the most valuable resources to anyone wanting to modify the car. It explains in detail, many of the features, and many of the engineering decisions Toyco made when they designed the car. I bought one for my MkIV Supra, and I have been a complete convert ever since. There is a WEALTH of knowledge about the car that you will not find anywhere else. Failing to read this book BEFORE setting out on a modification path would be foolish at best and destructive at worst.

Good find, now you can use your gauge and dont hafta spend another $300+ dollars :clap:

but how do you use that gauge if the voltage output is still not 0-5v?

This book is one of the most valuable resources to anyone wanting to modify the car.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&ct=res&cd=1&url=http%3A//www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0837601606%3Fv%3Dglance&ei=YHAnQ7nXKIHuYJ7ViLIN

Corky's book won't tell you the things you need to know about the original design, but you are right, if you want to turbo anything, it's a great tome. And when I said car, I meant the whole car, not just the engine. There are sections on the engine design, chassis design, body design, and "body electrical" covering all the ancillary systems. It's amazing what you can learn about the car from the factory documentation.

I just finished reading that book, well I didnt really read the part about them doin the install on the miata but everything else...Im also almost done w/ the book "How to Tune and Modify Engine Management Systems" by Jeff Hartmann...now thats a real interesting book.

but how do you use that gauge if the voltage output is still not 0-5v?

Why won't the narrow band gauges work on the S pipe narrow band sensor (besides doing the antifouler mod to stop the CEL, which then throws it off) :tap:

I'm wondering if I could use the wideband 02 sensor sent with the M-300 Bosch controller and remove the stock one. :nails: Or do I need to add another bung and run a dedicated sensor that is sent with the M-300 controller? Or can I just tap onto our stock wideband sensor and not use the sensor sent with the kit?

Corky's book won't tell you the things you need to know about the original design, but you are right, if you want to turbo anything, it's a great tome. And when I said car, I meant the whole car, not just the engine. There are sections on the engine design, chassis design, body design, and "body electrical" covering all the ancillary systems. It's amazing what you can learn about the car from the factory documentation.

I agree. I just wanted to plug Corky lol

Corky's book won't tell you the things you need to know about the original design, but you are right, if you want to turbo anything, it's a great tome. And when I said car, I meant the whole car, not just the engine. There are sections on the engine design, chassis design, body design, and "body electrical" covering all the ancillary systems. It's amazing what you can learn about the car from the factory documentation.

I agree. I just wanted to plug Corky lol

rather than edit that to not sound like a homersexual, i will leave it so you guys get a good laugh.



p.s. i like women

lol..and apparently the mentally challeged boy from "life goes on"...i think that was the show.

edit...maybe you meant chris kataan:

http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B00005JKJJ.01._SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

ok..im done..back on topic.

but how do you use that gauge if the voltage output is still not 0-5v?

Why won't the narrow band gauges work on the S pipe narrow band sensor (besides doing the antifouler mod to stop the CEL, which then throws it off) :tap:

I'm wondering if I could use the wideband 02 sensor sent with the M-300 Bosch controller and remove the stock one. :nails: Or do I need to add another bung and run a dedicated sensor that is sent with the M-300 controller? Or can I just tap onto our stock wideband sensor and not use the sensor sent with the kit?

SOmewhere on the plxdevices page, they have a how-to for replacing an existing o2 sensor w/ the wideband one. I should have done this on the lex, but I had an additional bung welded.

THe reason I say this is the car had 4 02 sensors originally, 2 were removed w/ the turbo kit install, and one went bad. All the wiring was done in the ecu to read the one o2 sensor to keep the cel off. As long as it worked and the heater circuit worked, my cel was off. So in retrospect, I could have made the wiring changes at the beginning and replaced the 1 bad o2 sensore w/ the wideband one. sweeet

http://plxdevices.com/AppNotes/PLXApp004.pdf

but how do you use that gauge if the voltage output is still not 0-5v?

Why won't the narrow band gauges work on the S pipe narrow band sensor (besides doing the antifouler mod to stop the CEL, which then throws it off) :tap:

I'm wondering if I could use the wideband 02 sensor sent with the M-300 Bosch controller and remove the stock one. :nails: Or do I need to add another bung and run a dedicated sensor that is sent with the M-300 controller? Or can I just tap onto our stock wideband sensor and not use the sensor sent with the kit?

SOmewhere on the plxdevices page, they have a how-to for replacing an existing o2 sensor w/ the wideband one. I should have done this on the lex, but I had an additional bung welded.

THe reason I say this is the car had 4 02 sensors originally, 2 were removed w/ the turbo kit install, and one went bad. All the wiring was done in the ecu to read the one o2 sensor to keep the cel off. As long as it worked and the heater circuit worked, my cel was off. So in retrospect, I could have made the wiring changes at the beginning and replaced the 1 bad o2 sensore w/ the wideband one. sweeet

That is sweet.... :clap: