http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/hid_kit_tc/HIDpic.jpg
*NOTE This kit DOES come with ballast*
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/hid_kit_tc/1.JPG
Lets start off by grabbing our 9006 adapters that HondaBoi sends you
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/hid_kit_tc/2.JPG
Place your wires in this adapter until they click and lock in
*Note: On the driver side white goes to red black goes to white, on the pass side white goes to gray black goes to white*
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/hid_kit_tc/3.JPG
Plug your new plug into your OEM harness
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/hid_kit_tc/4.JPG
All plugged in
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/hid_kit_tc/5.JPG
Now connect these two connecters together
http://www.scionlife.com/tech/images/hid_kit_tc/6.JPG
And your done! Place your new HID's in the housing and have fun blinding people. :P
Review
The kit HondaBoi sells is by far the easiest mod ive ever done to my car. You see we were installing my ZPI Stage 0 Turbo kit and we needed something to do while we waited for the oil pan to dry. I got it!! lets install that HID's that should take about 30 mins!. WRONG! It took around 3 minutes to get them in! Witch was a disapointment for us because for the rest of the 57 minutes we had to sit and stare at the sky :rofl:
Here are some pics of the end result! Awesome lighting even with stock housings they project a nice vivid beam. I went with a 10,000k set so of course ive gotten flashed around 10 times today! But you can't beat the visablity these things give you! HondaBoi is currently selling the kits here http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=101502&highlight=
oooh, using stock 9006 harness to power HID ballast = BAD! buy or make a relay harness. melting the stock wiring is not fun. plug-n-play is just a marketing lingo
hmmm the 10k's are more expensive, why pay more money to buy dimmer lights?
R2D2
01-26-2006, 10:57 PM
Info/411: Thanx
icdedppl
01-26-2006, 11:41 PM
wait, no ballast?? i thought hid's used a ballast...
Boogieman
01-27-2006, 05:14 AM
hurry and post pics i'm getting the same brand but from xenonpros.com and yea where are the ballasts/converts?
snowman
01-27-2006, 06:56 AM
Thats all well and good, but with no light balast, you dont have true hid's. you just have blue-ish prple-ish colored lights. unless you've stumbled upon some new technology, that the world hasent seen yet. if so, please let me know. or is there a balast and youve failed to mention it. or should i shut up,cause i dont know what im talking about, or am i right, huh???SNOWMAN :eyes:
Boogieman
01-27-2006, 08:58 AM
i think he failed to mention it, cause when you click the link he provided, the kit comes with ballasts.
Kaeon
01-27-2006, 02:10 PM
unless you've stumbled upon some new technology, that the world hasent seen yet. if so, please let me know.
I have! These lights run off "Kaeon" power :P You only need one "Kaeon" to run the whole system :wink:
i think he failed to mention it, cause when you click the link he provided, the kit comes with ballasts.
LOL come on guys whats hid's don't come with ballast!? The ballast are hidden in my pics but yes it comes with ballast. I will take pics to clear some things up.
Boogieman
01-27-2006, 03:30 PM
i swear on everything that is holy, where are the night pics baller?!
DynomyteSW
01-27-2006, 04:39 PM
now this may be a dumb question but wouldn't some eyelids (carbon fiber/plastic) help out with the cut-offs and maybe keep people from flashing? or maybe even tinted overlays?
jasonbegin
01-27-2006, 05:37 PM
oooh, using stock 9006 harness to power HID ballast = BAD! buy or make a relay harness. melting the stock wiring is not fun. plug-n-play is just a marketing lingo
hmmm the 10k's are more expensive, why pay more money to buy dimmer lights?
:bow: u cant plug a hid setup into stock OEM wires,, it will fry...
give it a month it will FRY... :no:
R2D2
01-27-2006, 05:55 PM
oooh, using stock 9006 harness to power HID ballast = BAD! buy or make a relay harness. melting the stock wiring is not fun. plug-n-play is just a marketing lingo
hmmm the 10k's are more expensive, why pay more money to buy dimmer lights?
:bow: u cant plug a hid setup into stock OEM wires,, it will fry...
give it a month it will FRY... :no:
Good warning... Show us how its done..
maximus96
01-27-2006, 07:06 PM
if you don't know how to make a make a relay harness, head over to www.hidplanet.com/forums, go to their for sale section and ask for somebody to make and sell you one. typically runs you about $30-40, or make your own for about $10-15. google is your friend.
Kaeon
01-27-2006, 07:59 PM
if you don't know how to make a make a relay harness, head over to www.hidplanet.com/forums, go to their for sale section and ask for somebody to make and sell you one. typically runs you about $30-40, or make your own for about $10-15. google is your friend.
I would like to make a harness I should be contacting you here shortly!
engifineer
01-27-2006, 08:19 PM
To create a relay control for anything:
Connect the stock power wire that you are trying to protect to one side of the coil on a relay. Pick a relay which is rated above the amount of current you expect to draw by the load.
Connect the other side of the coil to ground. Without connecting anything else you should be able to power the original wire (the headlight switch in this application) and hear the relay switch on.
Connect the new load device (the headlight ballast in this case) using the proper size wire directly from a battery positive source to one side of the NO (normally open) relay contacts. Using the same wire, connect the other side of the NO contacts to the load (ballast).
Install the HID portion and hope the heat doesnt ruin your stock housings after a few months.
maximus96
01-27-2006, 09:47 PM
heat is no problem, at least for me. i've been running mine since sept.
freeflowing
01-27-2006, 10:19 PM
dont just throw these in your stock housing because your gonna ____ a million drivers b/c you just blinded them. RETROFIT'em
R2D2
01-27-2006, 11:59 PM
From what I gather... Don't do'em without ballast, however we need pix Yo!
Kaeon
01-28-2006, 12:02 AM
From what I gather... Don't do'em without ballast, however we need pix Yo!
Yeh sorry sbout this guys but I have more important things to worry about right now with my turbo kit...
R2D2
01-28-2006, 12:11 AM
From what I gather... Don't do'em without ballast, however we need pix Yo!
Yeh sorry sbout this guys but I have more important things to worry about right now with my turbo kit...
10/4.. Good Luck.. :ponder:
freeflowing
01-28-2006, 04:05 PM
stock wiring should be used only as a switch
Kaeon
01-29-2006, 03:20 AM
stock wiring should be used only as a switch
Im going to make a relay, the car isnt driven right now so no harm will happen...
VW2SCION
01-29-2006, 11:57 AM
I've used this kit on 4 cars now for a very long time and it hasn't burned the wiring. Isn't the wattage of these less than stock halogen bulbs? like 35w compared to 55w.... no problems... only thing is McCulloch is known to be a horrible brand for HIDs... but out of the 4 sets only one has gone out in 2 years
Kaeon
01-29-2006, 03:08 PM
Isn't the wattage of these less than stock halogen bulbs? like 35w compared to 55w.... no problems...
I have read this somewhere aswell, Im not going to lie I don't know much about hids. But its better to be safe then sorry.
maximus96
01-30-2006, 03:18 AM
yes, after its starts up it runs at 35w. but the start up process where you see the lights flicket draws much more current than 35w...thats where it kills your wiring...if it always runs at 35 then it wouldn't be a problem. after spending $250 for a set of lights, its foolish not to spend $15 for cheap insurance.
freeflowing
01-30-2006, 08:01 PM
just look at this way it will be one less thing you have to worry about if something electrical goes wrong . just this saturday one of the ballasts i had for my angel eyes got water inside and shorted out and started drawing extra current from my battery. if i used a stock harness i would have damaged the stock harness but instead it fried the ballast and tripped a fuse in the harness i made.
Acsilva84
02-01-2006, 10:33 AM
great looking kit
R2D2
02-02-2006, 12:47 AM
I see the light!!!!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/cleaverv/installation.jpg
Now the question where the **** did u'all mount those things to hidem (@ the same time keepem safe from harms way)?
Petem
02-03-2006, 07:43 PM
i got a hella kit 2 weeks ago.. running the rebased D2R OEM 4100K temp bulbs.. i ended up mounting the ballast's inside the wheel well.. inside the fender apron.. i took pics if anyone is interested... basically.. i used 2 rows, of 3 layers each of heavey duty 3M double sided tape.. once you remove the wheel well cover / apron.. on the passenger side there is a spot right next to the washer fluid tank... and then on the driver side there is a spot next by the battery tray... again.. this is inside the fender.. the fender well covers is not that hard to take off...
trying to mount the ballast's anywhere under the hood is a pain.. no real place to put it.. so this was the cleanest way i could think of ... and if i do say so myself, looks pretty factory... :P
maximus96
02-03-2006, 07:50 PM
I see the light!!!!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/cleaverv/installation.jpg
Now the question where the **** did u'all mount those things to hidem (@ the same time keepem safe from harms way)?
thats the perfect way to ruin your stock wiring. powering a HID ballast with the thin 22gauge stock wire is a gamble. sure, it maynot melt today, or tomorrow, or 2 weeks from next year, but when it does, you'll be sorry you didn't spend the $15 to get a relay.
heyitznosaj
02-03-2006, 07:58 PM
I see the light!!!!
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y73/cleaverv/installation.jpg
Now the question where the **** did u'all mount those things to hidem (@ the same time keepem safe from harms way)?
thats the perfect way to ruin your stock wiring. powering a HID ballast with the thin 22gauge stock wire is a gamble. sure, it maynot melt today, or tomorrow, or 2 weeks from next year, but when it does, you'll be sorry you didn't spend the $15 to get a relay.
I agree with maximus. 15 dollars is cheap insurance but don't you have to solder these in replacing your old harnesses? I never soldered before and I definetly don't trust myself to do it for the first time on a car. Mind posting a DIY on how to upgrade your harnesses?
maximus96
02-03-2006, 08:37 PM
CREDIT GOES TO OCELARIS FROM HIDPLANET
HERE'S HIS LINK http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6612
Crimpless - Solder joints are a much better connection, acts like a solid piece of wire.
Heatshrink - your best friend for a watertight seal - electrical tape is ok, use it liberally. Heatshrink is also necessary for mechanically stabilizing solder joints. For example when you don't have a proprietary connector; solder wires on, and then heatshrink 4 layers or more on and around the plug so that when the wires are yanked, they pull on the plastic heat shrink tubing not the solder joints.
Relay sockets - so you can replace your relays if they die and the user can actually do it themselves. female 1/4" spade clips are ok, but if you unhook them from the relay, you lose what wire goes where.
No diodes! - unless you are using them for a specific purpose like passing power/ground to low beams from high beams in order to keep lows on while hitting your highs... IMO they are unnecessary. A relay socket replaces the need for a diode across the coil. If Bosch wanted diodes on their relays, they would have specified them. Replace the relay if it dies, don't alter your wiring to possibly extend the life of the relay.
Split loom - makes a nice clean finished appearence the higher the temperature rating, the better.
Silicone sealed relay sockets - to seal out moisture
Wire - 14 gauge is about as large a gauge as I personally would use. 16 gauge is also fine for lengths < 6 feet.
OEM male connectors - to attach to stock wiring to get your "triggers" for your relays. SUVLights or Rallylights has them for ~6-8$ a piece. Or you can cut off a bulb, solder wires on, and use heat shrink tubing to mechanically stabilize the socket. see heat shrink tubing.
Hints
A Butane torch is VERY useful for large solder joints of 3+ wires. Good joints should have the solder flow into the wire so it looks like a wrinkled rasin, not a ripe one!
Some heatshrink tubing is rated at it's final shrink size, and some is rated at it's before shrunk size. There is 2:1 shrink or 3:1 shrink, also there is a dual wall kind where the inner layer melts, oozing out, creating a water proof joint.
Radio shack heatshrink tubing sucks, don't write it off if you've had bad experiences with it.
Helping hands are a necessity.
Quick strip tools work great:
http://www.partsexpress.com/images/360-640m.jpg
Good solder joints
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/Ocelaris/Euro_Hid/Harness/Harness_25.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/Ocelaris/Euro_Hid/Harness/Harness_13.jpg
I'm not sure what the differences in our electrical systems are, but my friend Richard put in a McCulloch 8000k HID kit in his Supra a few months back. So far he's had no problems with it. I'm looking to do an HID swap on the tC eventually, so in the meantime I'll see if he has any problems, lol. :P
AZURETCTONY
02-04-2006, 04:07 PM
I have had the same exact kit, except mine is 6000k, and have been running them on my TC for a year now with no problems. It is not a cheap or crappy system. All connections are very secure and all wires are insulated and guaged at or better than stock. I also don't know what all the hype about blinding HID's is about, I live in the Tri-State area which is very crowded and I have yet to be flashed for my lights.
I have had the same exact kit, except mine is 6000k, and have been running them on my TC for a year now with no problems. It is not a cheap or crappy system. All connections are very secure and all wires are insulated and guaged at or better than stock. I also don't know what all the hype about blinding HID's is about, I live in the Tri-State area which is very crowded and I have yet to be flashed for my lights.
actually if you headover to hidplanet.com/forums, the folks there will tell you mcculloch is crap...
SciontCya
02-04-2006, 05:16 PM
^^^ I'm not signing up to read there...what exactly is "crap" about them?
Scott
AZURETCTONY
02-04-2006, 05:23 PM
Oh I guess thats because they don't sell them. HAHA :rofl:
maximus96
02-04-2006, 08:11 PM
^^^ I'm not signing up to read there...what exactly is "crap" about them?
Scott
inferior ballasts and bulbs mainly...the no name bulbs are either made in korea or taiwan and have a reputation on blowing. the quality is no match for Philips or Osram bulbs. the other problem is you can't use Philips or Osram bulb because of the kit does not come with a P32 socket for the bulbs which is normal for HID and required for the philips or osram. instead you get two dangling plugs...
SciontCya
02-04-2006, 08:30 PM
^^^ Thanks for the info. That's all good to know, assuming it's true - and I have no clue if it is or not...
I am thinking about just sticking with bulbs now.
Scott
Kaeon
02-07-2006, 02:31 PM
Posted pics check main page...
freeflowing
02-07-2006, 08:41 PM
^^^ I'm not signing up to read there...what exactly is "crap" about them?
Scott
inferior ballasts and bulbs mainly...the no name bulbs are either made in korea or taiwan and have a reputation on blowing. the quality is no match for Philips or Osram bulbs. the other problem is you can't use Philips or Osram bulb because of the kit does not come with a P32 socket for the bulbs which is normal for HID and required for the philips or osram. instead you get two dangling plugs...
i 100% agree with maximus statement .
i know hidplanet is fustrating for newbie but once you wrap your head around what hidplanet has to offer then youll know that mccollugh are a piece of s_ _ t . the best ballast you can buy IMO is phillips along with phillips bulbs. some will say hella for there ballast. all people who build retro dont use just anytype of ballast or bulbs becausethey know they are going to have to replace a cheap azz hid kit so waste the time on money.
AZURETCTONY
02-08-2006, 05:36 AM
First I would like to comment that at least the first guy defended his point with grammar readers can understand, but that’s beside the point. I never said McColloch HID's are the best in the world, I said in my experience and in the price range of kit I paid for, they perform well and so far I have not a single complaint about them and I’m sure I am not alone. We all love our Scions but by your standards of "inferior products" you would think you own Bentleys or some other insanely high quality / top technology auto. All I’m saying is there are levels of quality, price range and user opinion, so to each their own. Don't make preferences and generalizations into fact and law. :lalala:
scionetics
02-09-2006, 02:38 AM
I disagree with those stating that HID will fry the wiring. As you know,
headlight wiring is fused. I agree that there is a momentary ~half second
to max 1 second duration current draw that most likely exceeds the 55W
current draw of a normal halogen bulb. But immediately after that, the
constant current draw by the HID ballasts drops to ~35W.. well below what
the stock halogen bulbs draw. And definitely safe for wiring.
Taking a hypothetical scenario that the ballst drew say 200W constantly...
before the wiring fries, the fuse will blow. Then I would say put in a relay set
up. But that is not the case. The momentary high current draw when you turn
on HID's which i say lasts no longer than a second is not sufficient to heat up
to fry wiring. And in any case you have the fuse to protect you from that ever happening.
I don't know what that initial spike in current draw the ballsts create when you
turn on HID's but also consider that most bulbs use a 55W low beam/ 85W high
beam bulb. I know that I have driven in deserted mountain roads and what not
with my high beams on (drawing 85W ) for literally hours and there is no case of
wires frying there. I think it's safe to assume that the initial current spike
by the ballasts approximately equals 85W and if it exceeds 85W, not by much
and only for a split second. So I don't see the need for wasted money and time
and engine clutter for a relay setup when it really isn't necessary.
Just my thoughts on the subject.
engifineer
02-09-2006, 03:04 AM
I disagree with those stating that HID will fry the wiring. As you know, headlight wiring is fused. I agree that there is a momentary ~half second to max 1 second duration current draw that most likely exceeds the 55W current draw of a normal halogen bulb. But immediately after that, the constant current draw by the HID ballasts drops to ~35W.. well below what the stock halogen bulbs draw. And definitely safe for wiring.
Taking a hypothetical scenario that the ballst drew say 200W constantly...before the wiring fries, the fuse will blow. Then I would say put in a relay set up. But that is not the case.
The momentary high current draw when you turn on HID's which i say lasts no longer than a second is not sufficient to heat up to fry wiring. And in any case you have the fuse to protect you from that ever happening.
I don't know what that initial spike in current draw the ballsts create when you turn on HID's but also consider that most bulbs use a 55W low beam/ 85W high beam bulb. I know that I have driven in deserted mountain roads and what not with my high beams on (drawing 85W ) for literally hours and there is no case of wires frying there. I think it's safe to assume that the initial current spike by the ballasts approximately equals 85W and if it exceeds 85W, not by much and only for a split second.
So I don't see the need for wasted money and time and engine clutter for a relay setup when it really isn't necessary.
Just my thoughts on the subject.
It isnt frying it at once. It is the constant, repeated overheating that can dry and crack the harness connector over time. The great engineers at ford thought the same thing on the late 80s mustangs fan control module. They didnt take into account the repeated surge current every time the fan started which was above the capacity of the control module. They eventually died time and time again. The fix? (cause ford wouldnt redesign it)... use the control module to trigger a relay that controlled the fan. Mine as well as countless others were fixed this way by either me or my father at his shop.
I am not saying it will kill the harness for sure.. but people have had it happen before and it is a cheap fix to add the relay.
scionetics
02-10-2006, 12:49 AM
I disagree with those stating that HID will fry the wiring. As you know, headlight wiring is fused. I agree that there is a momentary ~half second to max 1 second duration current draw that most likely exceeds the 55W current draw of a normal halogen bulb. But immediately after that, the constant current draw by the HID ballasts drops to ~35W.. well below what the stock halogen bulbs draw. And definitely safe for wiring.
Taking a hypothetical scenario that the ballst drew say 200W constantly...before the wiring fries, the fuse will blow. Then I would say put in a relay set up. But that is not the case.
The momentary high current draw when you turn on HID's which i say lasts no longer than a second is not sufficient to heat up to fry wiring. And in any case you have the fuse to protect you from that ever happening.
I don't know what that initial spike in current draw the ballsts create when you turn on HID's but also consider that most bulbs use a 55W low beam/ 85W high beam bulb. I know that I have driven in deserted mountain roads and what not with my high beams on (drawing 85W ) for literally hours and there is no case of wires frying there. I think it's safe to assume that the initial current spike by the ballasts approximately equals 85W and if it exceeds 85W, not by much and only for a split second.
So I don't see the need for wasted money and time and engine clutter for a relay setup when it really isn't necessary.
Just my thoughts on the subject.
It isnt frying it at once. It is the constant, repeated overheating that can dry and crack the harness connector over time. The great engineers at ford thought the same thing on the late 80s mustangs fan control module. They didnt take into account the repeated surge current every time the fan started which was above the capacity of the control module. They eventually died time and time again. The fix? (cause ford wouldnt redesign it)... use the control module to trigger a relay that controlled the fan. Mine as well as countless others were fixed this way by either me or my father at his shop.
I am not saying it will kill the harness for sure.. but people have had it happen before and it is a cheap fix to add the relay.
i agree that such a scenario in the ford can cause a problem with wiring.
but you also have to consider that the fan switches on and off constantly way
way way more times in the life of a car compared to the number of times one
turns on headlights. i feel that repeated brief split second surges will not be
sufficient to heat the wires and create a situation remotely close to the
ford that you mentioned. i would say technology has advanced to produce
stronger and more resistant wire housings compared to the 80's. i have worked
on older cars, and i agree that the housing on some wires are cracked and/or
cracking off. that i think is also a result of the engine heat acting on the wires
as well as subpar wire housing of the past.
in the end its comes to owner preference i guess. i have installed HID directly
without relays and have no problems. and i have considered a relay setup
numerous times before install but didn't see the need for it.
maximus96
02-10-2006, 02:13 AM
if you feel so confident about the thin wiring in the tc, then more power to you. for the rest of us, we find comfort in knowing $10 will save us the trouble associated with melted wiring and harness.
freeflowing
02-10-2006, 11:19 PM
I disagree with those stating that HID will fry the wiring. As you know, headlight wiring is fused. I agree that there is a momentary ~half second to max 1 second duration current draw that most likely exceeds the 55W current draw of a normal halogen bulb. But immediately after that, the constant current draw by the HID ballasts drops to ~35W.. well below what the stock halogen bulbs draw. And definitely safe for wiring.
Taking a hypothetical scenario that the ballst drew say 200W constantly...before the wiring fries, the fuse will blow. Then I would say put in a relay set up. But that is not the case.
The momentary high current draw when you turn on HID's which i say lasts no longer than a second is not sufficient to heat up to fry wiring. And in any case you have the fuse to protect you from that ever happening.
I don't know what that initial spike in current draw the ballsts create when you turn on HID's but also consider that most bulbs use a 55W low beam/ 85W high beam bulb. I know that I have driven in deserted mountain roads and what not with my high beams on (drawing 85W ) for literally hours and there is no case of wires frying there. I think it's safe to assume that the initial current spike by the ballasts approximately equals 85W and if it exceeds 85W, not by much and only for a split second.
So I don't see the need for wasted money and time and engine clutter for a relay setup when it really isn't necessary.
Just my thoughts on the subject.
It isnt frying it at once. It is the constant, repeated overheating that can dry and crack the harness connector over time. The great engineers at ford thought the same thing on the late 80s mustangs fan control module. They didnt take into account the repeated surge current every time the fan started which was above the capacity of the control module. They eventually died time and time again. The fix? (cause ford wouldnt redesign it)... use the control module to trigger a relay that controlled the fan. Mine as well as countless others were fixed this way by either me or my father at his shop.
I am not saying it will kill the harness for sure.. but people have had it happen before and it is a cheap fix to add the relay.
i agree that such a scenario in the ford can cause a problem with wiring.
but you also have to consider that the fan switches on and off constantly way
way way more times in the life of a car compared to the number of times one
turns on headlights. i feel that repeated brief split second surges will not be
sufficient to heat the wires and create a situation remotely close to the
ford that you mentioned. i would say technology has advanced to produce
stronger and more resistant wire housings compared to the 80's. i have worked
on older cars, and i agree that the housing on some wires are cracked and/or
cracking off. that i think is also a result of the engine heat acting on the wires
as well as subpar wire housing of the past.
in the end its comes to owner preference i guess. i have installed HID directly
without relays and have no problems. and i have considered a relay setup
numerous times before install but didn't see the need for it.
you wont have a need for it until you have to replace that expensive harness . someone here has already fried theirs because the harness wasnt up to snuff. what you dont get is that heat is the main reason a harness.
......and yes you do blind people without the proper housing. and if you use the same housing with out the projector/specialized housing reflector you defeat the purpose of having hid lighting. one of 3 scenario will happen youll blind oncoming drivers or if you adjust the lighting youll be back at square one or see shorter distances adhead or set yourself up for a ticket.......your choice
cmoor98
02-12-2006, 08:21 PM
So... I'm new to the forums, and a little new to HID, but I am not new to electricity....
Ohm's Law -->
Voltage = Current x Resistance
written another way....
Power = Current x Voltage
So,
55w (running power) = 12 VDC x ????
about 5 Amps
85w (starting power) = 12VDC x ????
about 7 Amps
so, now I reference this link.....
http://www.alphawire.com/PAGES/383.CFM
they give a nice table about wire gage, and give a beautiful explanation about the things that can affect current ratings of wires. Since most of the wires in your engine compartment are more than likely rated for over 105 C, you should not have any worries about "frying" your wires. A 22 AWG wire can handle approx. 8 Amps continuously in a worst case insulation scenario.
That's my 2 cents....
engifineer
02-12-2006, 11:47 PM
^^ But the connector may not be able to, which is what you will most likely damage if anything.
Some things to remember about wiring (just bringing this up because some get confused when dealing with wire capacity charts, so I thought it may be useful to some). Current travels mostly on the surface of a wire generally speaking, which is why stranded wire is capable of higher currents. More surface area to conduct. A finer stranded wire will help this even more.
Also, even though a given wire can handle a given max currents heating, keep in mind that this is for a given ambient temperature. Under hood applications tend to be much hotter, which is one reason you see oversized wires being used. The extra heat means that heat is not removed from the wiring as quickly.
But, as always it pays to be safe. If you have the know how and 10 bucks or so, it pays to use a control relay if you are not sure.
freeflowing
02-13-2006, 09:28 PM
want a real setup thats the closest to oem
http://www.hidplanet.com/package.html
happyricefob
02-14-2006, 12:02 AM
looks good man...
cmoor98
02-14-2006, 08:05 PM
engifineer i agree with everything you stated. notice that the table i referenced had different types of wire on them. Based on insulation type (which also has a specific heat rating) there are different current ratings. That's why you use different insulating materials.
I'm not sure what you mean by, current tends to flow on the surface of a wire, but...i'll hear you out on that thought.
hotbox05
02-20-2006, 07:38 AM
want a real setup thats the closest to oem
http://www.hidplanet.com/package.htmltoo bad they're retrofits.
tpasciontc
02-20-2006, 01:17 PM
trade yur tc for a lexus is 250. its hid standard
engifineer
02-20-2006, 02:01 PM
engifineer i agree with everything you stated. notice that the table i referenced had different types of wire on them. Based on insulation type (which also has a specific heat rating) there are different current ratings. That's why you use different insulating materials.
I'm not sure what you mean by, current tends to flow on the surface of a wire, but...i'll hear you out on that thought.
That was a little misleading on my part to a degree and I appologize. I was taking that from the signal side of the system (AC), which is why I shouldnt do three things at once and then try to post :P Was mixing up two different threads. With the varying current drawn by the amplifier and some basic other properties, the effect is there, but minimal. In AC systems you experience a "skin" effect, which is much more prominent. A good example is on your speaker wiring. At the midrange of audio you are using the outer skin of the wire mostly. I started that post, then stopped, then came back and finished it, so I kinda mixed two different trains of thought. Sorry about that :P
greg_re_wag
02-22-2006, 05:15 AM
LOUD NOISES!!!!
tpasciontc
02-23-2006, 04:33 AM
i think the best bet for HID is right here..
one year warranty
Wow - good links. It sure is different when you're trying to sell products though...
Glad I skipped this mod - I think I'll stick with my GP Thunder / SilverStar combos.
with out real hid projectors, the results is this, a busted window :rofl:
:P :rofl:
Kaeon
04-23-2006, 10:11 PM
So I ran a relay for these today. Cost me about $40 total to make. I don't know how these other guys are making them for $10 unless they buy in bulk. I ran a 5 plug relay with Two 87's out (so I didn't have to splice the 87 into two) I tell you I feel a lot safer driving with the relay and fuses in. I used a silver star bulb I have a removed the bulb to solder in a wire for the remote turn on, on the relay. This way I didn't have to hack up my stock 9006 plug. At first I was going to throw everything away and say "f" it because of all the wires. but now that I have done it I'm glad I did... It make not look as clean (I'm also a neat freak) but it most defiantly gives me more confidence driving the care without worries.
chrischoi
04-23-2006, 11:05 PM
So I ran a relay for these today. Cost me about $40 total to make. I don't know how these other guys are making them for $10 unless they buy in bulk. I ran a 5 plug relay with Two 87's out (so I didn't have to splice the 87 into two) I tell you I feel a lot safer driving with the relay and fuses in. I used a silver star bulb I have a removed the bulb to solder in a wire for the remote turn on, on the relay. This way I didn't have to hack up my stock 9006 plug. At first I was going to throw everything away and say "f" it because of all the wires. but now that I have done it I'm glad I did... It make not look as clean (I'm also a neat freak) but it most defiantly gives me more confidence driving the care without worries.
whats that for?
Kaeon
04-24-2006, 12:04 AM
So I ran a relay for these today. Cost me about $40 total to make. I don't know how these other guys are making them for $10 unless they buy in bulk. I ran a 5 plug relay with Two 87's out (so I didn't have to splice the 87 into two) I tell you I feel a lot safer driving with the relay and fuses in. I used a silver star bulb I have a removed the bulb to solder in a wire for the remote turn on, on the relay. This way I didn't have to hack up my stock 9006 plug. At first I was going to throw everything away and say "f" it because of all the wires. but now that I have done it I'm glad I did... It make not look as clean (I'm also a neat freak) but it most defiantly gives me more confidence driving the care without worries.
whats that for?
Read Page 1 and 2
SCION_X
04-24-2006, 06:00 AM
WOW, alot to do about making them... How about these? Goto ebay and type in: HID 9006 Relay... or:
its really not that hard making them. if you know simple electronics and know how to use a wire crimper youre pretty much set. remember that when using a 5 pin relay like kaeon and using one relay to control both lights you should carry a spare relay and fuse. because if your fuse or relay goes out you will lose both headlights
Kaeon
04-24-2006, 01:22 PM
remember that when using a 5 pin relay like kaeon and using one relay to control both lights you should carry a spare relay and fuse. because if your fuse or relay goes out you will lose both headlights
Forgot to mention that! Thank you!
BTW, the relay is not hard to make its very very simple its just a little time consuming
dannygenio
04-24-2006, 04:05 PM
HAve done this is 2 minutes
dannygenio
04-24-2006, 04:06 PM
oh by the way ...this HID bulb lasted me just for 5month
trungchau
01-12-2007, 06:44 AM
i ran 8oook mccollough's from xenonpros.com
had them stolen from my car 3 months after
i ran them for three months no probs and yes ballasts are included with the kit
i got mine off of ebay though, save about 30%-40% from ebay
good luck with everything
my profile shows my car with the 8ooo's check it out
gomdangie
01-21-2007, 07:28 PM
well good see this thread,
i might just keep using my piaa bulbs instead and spend money on other mod
CSOCSO
01-22-2007, 05:22 PM
uhm... so if i want quality i need to buy the phillips hid kit?
btw.. if i want a really sharp cutoff.. i need to buy those halogen beams or what??? with the oem headlight i never gonna get sharp cutoff, right?
cliffud
01-27-2007, 01:51 AM
csocso - i'll chime in about the philips HID kit.
I've tested multiple kits on the market and actually ran the philips kit for two years in my car.
http://www.mobilehid.com/ballasts.jpg
Honestly, a ballast is a ballast.
As far as the bulbs - that's where I've noticed the difference. I offer a great HID kit that actually has BETTER cutoff than the philips kit due to being constructed closer to spec than the philips HID bulbs that I had before.
Here is one of my 9006 HID bulbs compared to a halogen 9006 bulb:
http://www.mobilehid.com/bulbs.jpg
The cutoff was pretty good with the 35 watt 9006 bulbs that I have but when I swapped out for the 50 watt kit and of course, the 50 watt bulb, the cutoff was even better. In fact, with my factory housing that was originally for a halogen bulb, I get a nice little rainbow at the top of the lit area. Of course I still get some glare but it really is minimized.
I'll see if I can take some pics tonight.
By the way- a philips kit will cost you anywhere between 350-400... My kits are $170 shipped.
if someone say: his HIDs was good only for 1 year.. that means he had to buy new ballast and bulbs??? or the ballasts good for lot of years and he had to buy only the bulbs?
cliffud
01-27-2007, 05:15 PM
it really depends on the setup and use. as you can see, I purchased many kits for testing and only two came with a dedicated wiring harness. the philips one that cost me $380 two years ago and the one I ended up becoming a distributor for.
the wire harness is pretty important not only because I puts less strain on your electrical system but also because it gives a direct connection to the power source that the ballasts need when firing up. remember, you're pulling a spike of approx 23,000 volts to ignite the bulbs- that kind of power is best moved through a dedicated wire.
another factor in ballast/bulb life is the use. I read some SL member who hooked up their kit and their car had daytime running lights and they failed to disable them before putting in their kit- the result was their bulbs flashing repeatedly because DRL's only get 1/2 power and it wasn't enough to fully ignite the bulbs but it made them flicker... definitely a bad thing to do with HID's since your ballast is straining to function on half power.
another issue is mounting location, i've seen instances where a ballast has become rusted due to mounting it in the direct line of where water would normally collect. interestingly enough, they were both philips kits from xenondepot.com that had plastic protective cases that were put on with the intention of shielding them from the elements. what ended up happening was water collected in the small space between the plastic case and the ballast itself and made it's way into the ballast and shorted the electronics over time. I say over time because there was significant rust in the casing.
in dry climates, like florida, one shouldn't have to worry. I just recommend not mounting them like directly in front of your radiator or somewhere else that will be exposed to rain. some hid kits tout that their setup is completely water proof. that's great if you drive a submarine but I wouldn't suggest paying a premium for those kits, just be careful and treat the ballast like it's a fuse box or something and make sure it stays dry.
Hope that helps answer your questions.
Clifford
CSOCSO
01-28-2007, 06:23 AM
i was asking if someone has a problem with your hids.. so i mean its stop working.. : its stop working because of the bulbs or the ballasts?
so if its stop working after 6 months i have to buy new ballast and bulbs or just the bulbs?
DuMa
01-28-2007, 06:35 AM
glare central. you're blinding everyone. good job
engifineer
01-28-2007, 04:12 PM
Yep, I cant stand it when people slap cheap HID kits in stock halogen housings cause it "looks cool". You are making the road more dangerous by blinding others. Even properly designed stock HIDs end up glaring most of the time. In the very least you should be retro-ing in some projectors or just not doing this at all.
Thing about rust in the case, that could have happened in a day or so, rust does not take that long to build up.
As I have said before, about all you get out of all of this is some sort of bling factor (I guess... I have never been impressed by which headlights a car is running :P). Vision is a little better, but damn, if you cant see well enough with a good set of halogens then maybe night driving should be left to someone else. Cost wise, you would have to replace your halogens a LOT to make up for the cost of HIDs. I typically go through MAYBE 3 sets of headlight bulbs in the life of a car.
Anyway, if for some weird reason you are all about the "bling" of HIDS, then do it right. Work with it until you are glaring no more that a set of production HIDs on another car no matter what it takes.
CSOCSO
01-28-2007, 06:41 PM
for real? i dont know what your guys talking about.. i saw hondas with HID every day... and they dont blind me and they dont have the retrofit thing... and im so jelaus because my tc's lights is sooo yellow and they lights is white...
Losirus
05-26-2008, 12:09 PM
...i learned more than i ever wanted to about HID's from this post, very informative tho, i purchased a relay kit from E-bay to err on the side of caution. Thanks ^^
ippskidder
01-08-2009, 03:55 PM
funny diy, lol.
^^
silverstreaktc
01-11-2009, 04:17 AM
dude...wtf happened to that car in front of him?
jbae1221
01-14-2009, 04:53 PM
I have a question about making the relay... ok i'm gonna run the positive from both ballasts to the 87 pin of the relay.. then i'm gonna run ground from both ballasts to the ground to the battery... the inline fuse from the battery to the 30 pin of the relay and then positive form the stock harness to the 86 pin and the negative from the stock harness to the 85 pin is that right.. and the 87a pin is not used thanks for the help
jwaggz82
06-07-2009, 06:45 PM
dude...wtf happened to that car in front of him?
same thing i was wondering ............back from the dead post