OK,
All of you that have one of these...
Please let me know your experience so far. Ive seena few posts here and there but Im left even more confused as to which to get.
Fitment, power ( or freeing up of ), customer services, problems, etc...

 

Consequences:

Removes a torsional vibration dampener. Will cause premature failure of oil pump chain and cam chain and voids engine warranty. The chains cannot deal with shock loads near as well as belts can.

No automotive expert or anyone with rudimentary knowledge of general physics recommends the removal of a harmonic or torsional vibration damper in exchange for anything.


But you gain 11whp.

This subject has been discussed ad nauseum. Lern2Serch

 

thanx for the lear2search....
I want actually comments pertaining to all the above mentioned... not bits and peices I find 098475092765 topics...

Thats why this is a forum. Its for discussions.

On that note.. thank you for your helpfull advise concerning the harmonic dampner.

Im just wondering if the car is not highly modified.. If the stress is really going to cause problems?
I dont even race the car. Just thought a little quiker reving would be nice.

 

I have the NST three piece set and did an install how-to for everyone with great pics... It revs quicker and is peppier... I love it...

I'm a fun of the underdrive/lightweight setup, but if you want to save money, you can sacrifice a bit and get others....

If you have questions NSTonAIM is on AIM a TON and will help answer ANY questions you have.... Just AIM him!

 

You don't need to be in the higher RPMs for the engine to vibrate and make use of the damper associated with the stock pulley. You achieve minimal gain with maximum risk by swapping out the crank pulley. If you ever have any engine problems, it will be blamed on the pulley and you'll be paying for it out of pocket.


If you want quicker reving, I'd suggest a lightweight flywheel (assuming you're running a manual.) That and some lighter wheels and you're good to go.

As I've said before in every locked crank pulley thread, if you're going to risk breaking a $2500-$3000 part of your car, make it worthwhile.


It is for discussions, and this has been discussed....a lot. Not to be an ___ or anything but seriously...I'm sure the thousands of us here just love typing the same ____ over and over and over again because some people lack the mental ingenuity to piece together information.

 

Thats the reason for topic names...
If you dont want to read and or discuss it. dont reply.

haha... funny, your still giving some of the best advice,

I keep hearing how bad it can be and what can happen... but never met and or heard of anyone actually having this problem?

 

Being an ostrich won't help.

The risk you take with the pulley just isn't worth it. You gain 10 horsepower while simultaneously putting your engine at serious risk. Dinan Engineering had the problem with their motorcycles in the 60s and have a few articles quoting basic physics as to what can happen without a torsional damper.

Risking your engine and losing your warranty for forced induction 100+ horsepower = worthwhile

Risking your engine and losing your warranty for naturally aspirated 10-12 horsepower = stupid

 

I believe you are incorrect sir.

The tC's engine i believe has internal harmonic balacing thats not in the pulley that your use to in older engines, soooo, that would make a pulley like ZPI's the same size as stock, just lighter, and in turn produce power without harming the engine. Im more than positive. someone with actual pulley knowledge on OUR engine, correct me if im wrong...

 

With boost, if done properly you really can do it right and reliable. Removing the torsional damper WILL cause more stress on the components, period. The damper is there to counteract the vibration and torsional shocks on the crank. It costs more to produce a pulley WITH the damper and takes more time, so I highly doubt a manufacturer would do it if it werent needed. Not only do you run the risk of pre-mature failure of the oil pump chain, but also crank, bearings, etc. And no one knows how the tC will hold up to this, since it takes a long time to happen. Its one of those things, you cant say when it will happen for sure, but it is causing your engine more stress, for little gain. I am not even sure about the 11HP dyno number. I have seen dynos on here of tCs with FULL intake, exhaust, header, spipe setups with a UR pulley only putting down 25 - 30 WHP gains total..

 

^ @ ZPI's shootout, some one did do a dyno run w/ just s-pipe and exhaust, and then installed the pulley, re-dynoed 15 minutes later and got 11 WHP. so it does produce that much.

 

Look up some of the info Lo_bux posted. He is pretty knowledgeable and lists actual instances of damage from this

 

well untill it actualy happans to anyone, i dont think im going to worry about it.

stock pulley weighed 56 ounces, my zpi V2 weighs 14 ounces. thats lighter than NST's pulley and nst's pulley is of a smaller diameter

 

Talk to mike at NST, he knows his pulley's.
I ask has ANYONE here personally had a incident with the pullies, any brand......? you hear horror stories about pullies, especially in older model cars or trucks, the newer cars according to everyone that i have talked to under normal loads have no problems with them, everyone i have heard who as installed these has not had any issues. i would like to see some actual proof of damage to a TC directly attributed to the installation of pullies, im not saying people are not up on there facts, but what alot of what i have heard on this forum is from people who know someone who knew someone who had a problem, i have not seen an definative proof about issues directly related to the scion Tc and any underdrive pullies........
endinfineer, can you link some of Lo_bux posts with this information? i have searched and cannot seem to find anything.......

 

 

It was my tC that got dyno'd at the zpi shootout. 11.6 HP and 18lbs. tq. And to be honest these so called problems that MAY occur have me alittle concerned. But I have plans to buy to by a new motor anyway for future internal mods witha turbo. Plus there are people on SL that have been 15,000 miles plus on these pulleys without any problmes yet. So only time will tell...

As for the this threads reason, I think the ZPI pulley is great. Fitment was great, driving it feels great. I think you cant go wrong with either the ZPI or NST pulleys. I havent heard anything about the UR pulleys yet.

 

Ok.... I'm going to start warning here if people keep posting threads about pros/cons of running pulleys....

If you want to know the pros/cons of running different manufacturers, we can discuss that and compare and contrast different pulleys -

IE - NST/ZPI/UNOR

IF YOU WANT TO KNOW ABOUT THE RISKS.... SEARCH

If you want to polute every pulley thread with the risks.... from this point on... refrain and if they ask... refer them to search...

NO MORE BACK AND FORTH... this is the third thread this week hammering out the dead horse issue.

 

Edit: Sorry, WDS, you instaposted me.



Start here.

Then click here.

Then click here for information directly from Toyota, the guys who designed your car and engine.


For a thread from YSTC, click here



But honestly, it's stupid to keep fighting this battle. This is probably the second or third thread this week that has hashed out the same arguments and the counter arguments.

Please, let us just here about feed back from the owners about improvement, fitment, quality and blah blah blah.

 

No one seems to understand the type of damage it does. Of course it hasnt happened to anyone on here yet. This is a problem that happens sometimes after 40k or 50k miles. It is premature failure, not something that will happen at x number of miles. You can also drive on dino oil for 15k before changing it again and again, but would you want a car that someone had done that to? I am not saying you will for sure cause some dont, some do.. just not something I would be willing to bet on. Again, why do you think the designers take the time and money to design and produce a heavier, more complex pulley to start with? I am not trying to say you will definitely shell your engine. But there is NO way around it: The pulley with no torsion damping IS harder on the crank and related components period. You cant argue that at all. So it is how long it will take and whether you are lucky enough to not sustain damage that is the unknown.

 

sorry wedrive.. I was in the middle of posting when you wrote that. I have said all I want to say and was merely clarifying why I feel the way I do. Not trying to bash anyone for what they were running.

 

Done... If you want to hear about comparisons / user experience.... please start a new thread.