I dont think you want to go with a socket, a wrench is better. I used a 15/16, it was close enough.

double wrench ftw

there is any diy how to bleed the clutch?

I change mine last Friday. Redline MT-90. Can't really tell difference. Well its seems to be easier to put car in reverse now maybe its just me.

I just changed my fluid today. Took just a drip over 3 quarts of GL-4.

Finished in less than 30 minutes.

On my '08, both the fill and drain plugs were 24mm. Getting to the drain plug with a socket is just about impossible but it's the perfect job for a box end. But I didn't have a box end 24 so I borrowed a neighbors. Unfortunately, it was a 12 point but it worked, would've preferred 6 point.

Another bad thing is that I couldn't get a torque wrench to the drain plug.

I'll figure something out for the next time.

The factory fluid was still pretty bright, almost a waste to change it out but I'm a believer in synthetics. I used Amsoil GL-4.

I also switched the oil over to 100% Amsoil synthetic.

Can't notice an difference, probably won't until I drive the car when it's cold.

i havent checked yet..but doesnt the s/c cover up the tranny fill hole? just thought i'd ask since i'm already on here

oh damn i've been looking for this, thanks for the bump

Hey instigator i think you left out one more instruction at the end....

After you install your new transmission fluid in and tighten everything back up, your suppose to shift into each gear letting the fluid sink in to each gear before your drive your car or maybe turn on your car.

its the proper way to pre-sync? not sure wats the actual term for it, but its for safer and proper way in general, said by a master mechanic.

omg the 1 and 1/16 socket is so dam hard to find...

kragen has them but they didnt have the 10" extension... for a 1/2 drive... wtf

instead of filling it through the back-up sensor, couldn't u just fill it through the tranny fluid dipstick tube? i've always filled up my other cars tranny fluid through there. i could be wrong but it would be easier if u could fill it up through there.

Great DIY, I have 105K on my tC and its time to change it again, starting to feel like the gears are not going in smoothly anymore, this will be the second time its being done, I used Royal Purple the first time and I was very happy with the results, so I think I will use it again. Oh...and I have a manual trans. with the original clutch, which is still working well.

hey guys is the socket from the drain plug for the transmission oil 21mm? are they bot 21mm?

instead of filling it through the back-up sensor, couldn't u just fill it through the tranny fluid dipstick tube? i've always filled up my other cars tranny fluid through there. i could be wrong but it would be easier if u could fill it up through there.

dont think manuals has dipsticks but autos do.

ahh that would explain it then. :silly:

nice write up

is the drain and add plug 24mm?
cuz the 7/8" doesnt fit...
i'll try 15/16" or 24mm and use which ever fits better.

man is problem is holding up the change...
thanks for not posting wat the size is...=/

it should be 24mm for the drain plug and 1 and 1/16th for the reverse sensor..... try looking back a few pages next time.

Good stuff man.

alright finally did it. the whole thing took less then 30mins. i would have finished it in less then 15 but i took it slow and waited for the dripping to stop. dam that stuff is thick...
i borrowed my friends snap-on tools (they rock!!) a 15/16" will work just make sure you use the circle side not the Y side.

cant 8 to drive it 2morrow. hopefully i'll feel a difference.

anyone know how to disposed the transmission oil? what place takes them?

good write up! Hopefully it works out better for everyone else then it did me!

Since ive switched to this fluid, ive noticed 3rd gear grinds!

Never ever ever ever had this happen before!


Switched back over to factory fluid and it went away?

Dealer said they had someone else with the same problem, that the best fluid is oem!

i couldnt tell the difference after switching from oem to the Redline stuff. i changed mine at 30k and i'm going on 38k now.

i will have to switch mine out when i get a chance

i switched to mobil 1 tran fluid and the shifter feels "creamy"
worst thing that happened was 2nd gear didn't catch and it grinned a little onces.

shift slow for the first few miles.

WOOT just got it done an hour ago. probably only take 30-45min, not include finding the right tools.... but the all the bolts came out real easy. Just have a 27mm w/extension (remove sensor) and 24mm (drainer/filler) your good to go.


changed it at 86k miles with Redline MT-90; shifting is more slick, shifting is more quiet while driving, and overall feels brand new again.

Just finally did this today. Had bought all of the random tools ahead of time and it took me 15-20 min. Cake.

Went with Redline MT90. No incredible difference yet... but that old fluid was NASTY. But I guess 62k miles will do that to a transmission.

^^ and that oem fluid is like water, mine got changed at 37K.. What I noticed is that I dont hear that klank klank sound when I shift especially reverse or 1st

^^ and that oem fluid is like water, mine got changed at 37K.. What I noticed is that I dont hear that klank klank sound when I shift especially reverse or 1st
Hmm, very relieving hearing someone else talk about the clunk/clank when shifting. I asked the dealer about my clanking noise while shifting and they ended up changing the trans fluid around 5,500 miles. They said it was practically black and couldn't figure the cause of it. I'm probably going to try MT-90 once I get my next oil change.

Just finally did this today. Had bought all of the random tools ahead of time and it took me 15-20 min. Cake.

Went with Redline MT90. No incredible difference yet... but that old fluid was NASTY. But I guess 62k miles will do that to a transmission.
Same all around. I just changed mine to MT-90 at 55k; old stuff was garbage, and I haven't really noticed much of a difference yet.

the reverse sensor happens to be under a large chunk of metal since I have a supercharger. How hard is it to fill from the fill port underneath the car?

imo.. pretty easy as long as you have the right tools.

either a really nice long funnel with a tube to fill from the top... or a pump with a tube that goes up from underneath

okay just make sure i understood the DIY write up

so i open the hood, take off the reverse sensor ( on top of the trans) and put it back by hand, not tightening it up with any tool.

below the car i remove the plug showed in green circle after the oil is drained i put it back, tighten it

then unscrew the plug showed in red circle, go back to the reverse sensor start filling it up with the oil and when i see the oil coming out on the bottom i just screw that bottom plug back really fast, while the oil will puring on my hand?, then plug the reverse sensor back.

how do i bleed the clutch?

when you say 3 full bottle.... (quarts)?

you dont need to bleed the clutch.. and yeah 1 bottle is 1 quart, you will need less than 3 bottles, prolly like 2.75 quarts/bottle

2.5 - 2.75 quarts is all you need.

but i want to bleed the clutch because it feels really spongy on the top 1 inch

i think its normal to have the first inch spongy the spring didnt engage yet

i dont know.. i really dont like it. i have to check other tc's...
btw i have trd clutch

i would prefer it to be spongy for the 1st 1 inch, its better on traffic

my clutch engages almost when i depressed completely... so the first 1 inch is annoying and then there is another 1(maybe2?) inch which is still dead but the pedal feels stiff and nice

Well, not sure why anyone hasn't said this but.....the clutch runs off the master cylinder, NOT the transmission fluid. To bleed the clutch, you have to bleed it from the slave cylinder and feed through the master cylinder. Brake fluid vs. Gear fluid.

omg.. it chinese for me...

omg.. it chinese for me...

Changing the clutch fluid (gear oil) won't make the clutch pedal stiffer or softer. That is manipulated by bleeding the system via the slave cylinder (located on the front of the transmission, to the driver's side of the header). There's a bleeder valve on there. To bleed it, your best bet is to use a pressure canister and hook it up to the brake master cylinder reservoir (located on driver's side of engine near driver's side strut tower). With the pressure up and the new fluid in the canister, loosen the slave cylinder bleeder valve and allow all dark fluid to escape. When clean fluid begins to come out, count to 3 and then close the bleeder valve. That's just what I do to make sure I don't close it too early :)

thx for the info... but i would need to see these on pics so i could do it myself..

i just did my gear oil change yesterday. It is hella harder than my first time. Because my Supercharger is in the way.

http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a156/gammatnt/car%20stuff3/IMG_1314.jpg
Here is a pic to let you guys know don't loose those 2 rings, because i almost lost them.

i need a fast answer because im about to go and buy the oils for my car in ... 2hours.. so.. im gonna get mt90 for the transmission but i was thinking to get 10w30 synthetic for the motor too... of course redline.. any input about the redline motor oil for the tc? it will be good or there i should go with oem?

plus i want to get trd oilfilter, or the regular oem is fine? i dont expect more hp.. just doing it maybe its better for my car..

i need a fast answer because im about to go and buy the oils for my car in ... 2hours.. so.. im gonna get mt90 for the transmission but i was thinking to get 10w30 synthetic for the motor too... of course redline.. any input about the redline motor oil for the tc? it will be good or there i should go with oem?

plus i want to get trd oilfilter, or the regular oem is fine? i dont expect more hp.. just doing it maybe its better for my car..


OEM filter is all you need. The TRD filter is a high flowing filter which is not necessarily a good thing for an NA engine. Higher flowing filters are good for higher hp engines that require more lubrication at a faster rate, but NA engines I would just use OEM.

Haven't heard anything good/bad about the Redline motor oil. Their trans fluid is good but not many people I know or talk to use their motor oil.


P.S.....I bought a pressure brake bleeder so when I do my brake system and clutch line, I'll make a little DIY on my other site (clubsciontc.com) and forward the link over here :)

ok.. i got royal purple engine oil but im not sure if 4 qts was enough, because it took all of them really easy...

plus the mt90 trans oil

oh and toyota didnt had trd filter so i got a regular filter from toyota.
the guy who helped me he told me it might be the time to check on the spark plugs ( i have 70k miles) and we gonna doo a vacuum test too.. just because of my curiosity

what clutch line you bought? i wanted to get the ingalls one but they told me that they discontinued it :(

what clutch line you bought? i wanted to get the ingalls one but they told me that they discontinued it :(

I'm still running my OEM line at 83K and it has no dryrot signs so I'm not going to change it now.


Tip for Royal Purple....DON'T USE IT! Royal Purple uses Moly as its primary lubricant and after repeated drain intervals, you don't get it all out. What's left turns into a concrete-like substance and has a high potential for internal damage to components and excessive wear.

4 quarts is good for oil by the way.

very good.. its already in my engine, i should change the oil again? or im good to go for 5 k miles?

very good.. its already in my engine, i should change the oil again? or im good to go for 5 k miles?

Just run it through the normal interval and use K&W motor flush before the next change.

ok thanks

great right up

hey guys,

newbie to working on his car. i was trying to remove the drain plug to the transmission but i'm stuck. my socket wrench wont fit in that tight spot. my adjustable wrench wont catch on the bolt. i need some help and advice if anyone has any. i know it may sound stupid but im trying to learn. thanks everyone.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r52/webmancorvette/sockets.jpg
All the way to the right you will see the 24mm socket you need. It's a shallow socket and you may need to get a pivot-head breaker bar as in my other picture below:
http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r52/webmancorvette/extension_bar.jpg

It's a very tight squeeze with these as well but once you crack it free, just slide the socket/bar off and use your finter to loosen the bolt.

DO NOT JUST TAKE THE BOLT OFF QUICK!!! OIL WILL GO EVERYWHERE.

Hold the bolt over the hole and allow the fluid to drain slowly and in a controlled manner.

hey guys dont know if this has been asked i have 5,XXX miles on my 5speed 09 , should i make the switch to sythetic MT90 ? also how often do you have to change the trans fluid ?

^It wouldn't hurt and your gear box would benefit from the synthetic switch early for the long run.

I do mine every 30K on the dot, no later.

with the 2009 tc takes MT90 ??

Yes, same transmission and gear box.

Hey I just did this but with Amsoil 75-90. For all of you who did this switch with both Amsoil and Redline MT-90, when did you feel the difference in the smoothness of the shifting? Was it immediately after changing the fluid, or was it as you drove the car around for a while?

Hey I just did this but with Amsoil 75-90. For all of you who did this switch with both Amsoil and Redline MT-90, when did you feel the difference in the smoothness of the shifting? Was it immediately after changing the fluid, or was it as you drove the car around for a while?


Mine was after a few miles of driving around and shifting a lot. I would say that after about 10-15 miles I began to notice the shifter sliding a bit smoother. Basically, wait until the fluid is allowed to "touch" all of the gear box internals and then the shifting will become a bit smoother. Take the car up hills and over bumps so that the fluid can slosh around a bit in the gear box.

ok thanks because I took it around the block, (no where near close to even 1 mile) and I didnt notice any difference. I even went through all the gears before I turned the car on after the fluid was changed. I drive 280 miles/day so I guess ill definitely notice it tomorrow...

I have tried MT-90 and Motul Gear 300, and I don't think there is any difference in shifting smoothness between stock oil and synthetic oil. The only thing I could notice was with the Motul Gear 300. It was a lot easier to shift in the morning when the car was cold, than either stock or MT-90. But that's probably because the 300 is a slightly thinner oil.

Having said that, I thinking using synthetic fluids in the tranny and engine is a very good idea, especially if you go to the track or just drive your car hard. Just don't expect a big change in shifting smoothness.

yea ive actually driven around with the Amsoil gear lube for about 2000 miles now and I mean the only thing I can say is it's easier to shift when the car hasn't warmed up yet in this cold weather. Other than that I'd say the shift feel is basically the same as the stock oil.

im going to buy the redline gear oil later and do the change...getting into reverse and sometimes 1st is hard..but once it warm up it fine..but i just wanna get rid of the noise when you shift..this stuff is suppose to let the gear go in smoorth so your not forcing it...but i dont use the clutch when i racing only when im getting into first gear did i say racing or should i say shifting fast..

Is it safe to use MT-90 for limited slip differential or should i get some Redline 75w90 and their friction modifier for LSD? I'm not sure what dealer put in there but I know its 80w90. I think its too thick and I really like Redline.

^The difference in 80W-90 and 75W-90 is negligible other than on cold starts. As soon as it gets to operating temperature, they are the exact same viscosity.

The friction modifier though, I'd use the one that specifies that it has it.

does it matter if you engine is hot or cold when doing this change...

yeah it matters, when its hot there is a change that you will get burned if not careful lol but other than that it shouldnt matter

:lol:

If the engines "warm," it'll help to make sure as much of the old fluid comes out as possible. When warm, the fluid flows much easier so, more fluid will come out in less time.

when you remove the reverse sensor plug do you have to remove the scew also or all you need is to remove the reverse sensor to fill..

then i would neeed 24 mm to remove the drain and fill plug correct

best thing I couls have ever done to my tc=)

when you remove the reverse sensor plug do you have to remove the scew also or all you need is to remove the reverse sensor to fill..

then i would neeed 24 mm to remove the drain and fill plug correct

You don't have to remove the sensor. You can easily get the fluid back in through the fill plug using a funnel with a long tube, a pump, or a bottle that comes with a nozzle. And yes it's 24 mm. Make sure you buy short/stubby style socket. A deep socket will not fit to remove the drain plug.

Also, replace the gaskets to avoid any future leaks. Torque for both the drain and filler plug is 36 ft/lbs. Lastly Make sure the car is leveled or else you might under-fill or overfill your tranny.

using a pump is not easier............filling from top then wait until it drips from the fill hole is easier..you dont torque the bolts gotta do it hand tight until its nice and tight.....this mod is suppose to be a easy DIY with basic tools

97K miles later and 3 trans fluid changes, no leaks with hand tight snug feel and original ring gasket :)

The fill plug is the easiest and cheapest.

-im planning to do my tranny oil, is it ok to drain it into my used motor oil container, or should i not mix them and get a seperate container?

u can mix it In that no prob. its trash anyway. that's wat the performance shop by me did jus drain it in the motor oil waste container

-sweet, imma head to the local auto store to pick some good clean tranny oil for a change-

I got mine online 39 shipped for 3 bottles. unless u can find redline at the store then that's great too

-well i dunno if it was gonna be redline, but ill keep that in mind then....

-lately been modding my car for the past coouple of months, hurt my wallet a bit

whatever oil u choose stay away from Mobil1 or Royal Purple, I heard horrible stories about them. Redline, Eneos & Motul are great, but when its colder out with redline (what I have) its alil rougher to get into gears but nothing crazy till the car is full warmed up, and at a stop first tends to jam up a bit aswell as reverse, but that's completely normal, it happens even when u don't put in new synthetic oil

thats not true about mobile 1......i use that in all my cars no problems at all.....most people on scionlife use mobile 1.....most stories you probably heear the oil is probably not comaptiable with their car or they dont know what they buying or how to use it..you cant go by other stories on a product you have to try for yourself to see if it works for you....all cars are different.....sure i heard good and bad stories about the tc but didnt base my opion on buying one on that i took both sides and bought the car to see for my self and everything ive heard about i havent seen yet you get my point

thats not true about mobile 1......i use that in all my cars no problems at all.....most people on scionlife use mobile 1.....most stories you probably heear the oil is probably not comaptiable with their car or they dont know what they buying or how to use it..you cant go by other stories on a product you have to try for yourself to see if it works for you....all cars are different.....sure i heard good and bad stories about the tc but didnt base my opion on buying one on that i took both sides and bought the car to see for my self and everything ive heard about i havent seen yet you get my point

yeah most people on scionlie use mobil1 for engine oil not tranny oil. for tranny the majority of people on SL use redline or royal purple. and what are u actually saying is not true?? I didn't even give examples or anything of how mobil1 Tranny oil is bad for u to agree or disagree. so what in fact are u saying is not true? Yes I use mobil1 but for engine oil and filters, nothing more then that, u jus completely disagreed with nothing, no examples of wat it does or anything. and now if u would like to know how mobil1 tranny oil is bad ill tell u, mobil1 makes the gears grind horribly, with any car, our cars and others every gear u shift in it grinds. this is why the best pair is Mobil1 engine oil and Redline tranny oil is the best. I use mobil1 on all my cars aswell just not tranny, ive owned my tc for over 4 yrs now I know wats right and wats wrong either from my point of view or otheres here on SL, have u ever tries using mobil1 tranny oil?

u actually disagreed yet hav redline tranny oil in ur profile? u never used mobil1 ever yet defending it for our transmission. lulz

yea agree mobile 1 motor oil and redline tranny oil is best from what i see for the tc....i havent tried anything else other then the OEM fluid....i do alot of research prior doing work to my car....majority of tc owners use Mobile 1 motor oil now i knoew that before i came on the forum cause i use it on my other cars but i been lokin for a great tranny oil and came upon here and read redline is one of the best oils for the tc.....like i said 1 on the best im sure theres others out there that could preform better but its good for now..i have not tried any other tranny oil other then OEM and redline...as far a motor oil ive had pennzoil..mobile 1...gastrol and others......but mobile 1 is the only one i used in the tc so far

oh noo haha I would never knock on mobil1 motor oil but when I said I heard bad things about it I meant tranny oil, car grinds too much with mobil1. as of right now I have redline and mobil 1 for motor, I love the redline but my gears tend to jam up with colder weather. seems alil rougher like sumthings holding it back sumtimes to get into 1st and reverse. does that happen to u after u used redline?

little misunderstanding thats all......after i use the redline there was less grinding going into reverse......sometimes i have to go into 1st and 2nd then reverse wil line up and go through but for the most part if you do it nice and easy ill be fine but if you change the cable bushing at the end of the tranny you should have even more crisper enguagements and easier to get into gears im goona pick up some Cable Bushing Set from Isotope that should compltet the gear package but like you said when the car is cold but i think thats when any stick little rought shifting but once everything is warmed up its fine.....


Right now mobile 1 motor oil and redline tranny oil...and mobile one oil filter i heard K&N is really good also...

Off topic catch:...

^don't waste your money on K&N oil filters. They are meant for high pressure applications where much higher oil psi is seen and filtering is limited (alcohol engines that are pretty much rebuilt each run). Stick with OEM style and you'll have MORE than enough filtering for a stock and even modified motor.



Royal Purple motor and gear oil for me.

my gears jam up a lot idk y ever since I changed to redline, I think I might change to eneos or royal purple idk yet

how many miles of using the redline... majority of the people that use it no problems but seems like few people here and there seem to have problems with it doesnt necessarly mean its the oil could be the bushing or something loose....ive had no problems

3 bottles of this right

yea but only goona use about 2 full bottles plus half of the last bottle....

had mine for 2k miles now but I heard its bc of the cold weather but I also heard its bc of the redline idk, it was fine but today since its been cold its been acting up the past few days cause its colder out

Try Motul Gear 300. It has a pouring point 27 degrees lower than Red Line, it's a bit thinner, and it's just generally a lot better for cold weather environments. It's the reason I don't use MT90. It's just gets to stiff in the morning, and I'm talking SoCal cold here.

http://www.motul-canada.com/en/products/products_info/Gear_Oil/Gear_300/Gear_300_TDS.pdf

http://www.redlineoil.com/pdf/6.pdf

yeah I think I might do that I'm gonna switch over to either motul or eneos, it seems like with the cold weather until the bcar actually warms up a lot it gets like that, its b een cold here for the past few days/nights and its been the first time its really been cold since I got the oil changed, but I'm thinking I'm gonna keep this for the summer now that its here and then at the end of summer I'm either gonna go motul or eneos. yeah nyc cold is horrible here even now at nite its like 49/50 degrees so I can't imagine during the winter.

just like motor oil.....5w-30 in the winter and 10w-30 in the summer....i have redline for the summer.....take about 5 mintues for the car to warm up...then everything is fine it was the same way when i had the OEM fluid in also....i think i have to change my bushings any way.....i drove 5 speeds in the past where when it was cold out it wouldnt even go into any gear unless the car is fully warmed up....but the tc..2 min to warm..next 2 min little harsh shifting then be fine..for the rest of the day....

yeahh im gonna go with eneos for tranny oil and possibly engine oil jus not sure yet i like my mobil1 for the engine 5w30. but one thing eneos comes in 75w90 GL5 unlike Redline MT90 thats 75w90 GL4 should that make a difference?? cause im trying to do this soon if not ill even use motul cause i heard that was great too


off topic:
bro u use 5w30 on ur 06? i thought 06's were changed and had to use 5w20? they did a "recall" if u will on them saying to use 5w20.

yea they made that switch to 5w.30 to 5w.20..the statement i made above was just and expression or and example....i have 5w-30 in right now.....next oil change ill switch to the 5w.20 if they have it at my local store....theres not much of a difference and wont hurt your engine......

ohh haha nvm then yeah Idk y they changed it. but it really doesn't matter. I need to checkout motul or eneos I heard good things about them but eneos says GL5 75w90 I need to check that out

Well my jamming up of the gears are completely gone! haha just so u guys know ENEOS>redline anyday. got my oil done agian thinkin it was the oil and ofcourse it was and now eneos is pure butter

if you have a hard time getting into gears that wouldnt be the motor oil ..that would be the gear oil..if your crap ran like crap and wasnt accerlating like it use too then i would look into changing the oil but the tranny is what controls the gears or should i say you do..

no sh*t :lol: when I said I changed my oil I meant changed my trany oil (again) from redline mt90 to Eneos 75w90 GL5 tranny synthetic oil, if u mean why we were talking about motor oil that was jus offtopic between me and my06tc. I changed my trany oil 3 weeks ago to Redline, and it gradually got worse, gears started jamming up. first was hard to get into and sumtimes every gear was hard to get into at a stop, so me thinkin it was the oil (since I never had the problem before I did the change) which it was, I bought sum Eneos 75w90 GL5 and voila! the problem changed almost instantly, ofcourse with more and more driving it smoothly gets better but u felt it, the jamming went away almost instantly. I didn't feel it anymore and now its gone. I don't recommend redline to any1 but ofcourse that's jus me cause I had problems with it and I'm only one person, but sum will have no problems with it. jus My opinion, next thin I am gonna do though is go from Mobi

no sh*t :lol: when I said I changed my oil I meant changed my trany oil (again) from redline mt90 to Eneos 75w90 GL5 tranny synthetic oil, if u mean why we were talking about motor oil that was jus offtopic between me and my06tc. I changed my trany oil 3 weeks ago to Redline, and it gradually got worse, gears started jamming up. first was hard to get into and sumtimes every gear was hard to get into at a stop, so me thinkin it was the oil (since I never had the problem before I did the change) which it was, I bought sum Eneos 75w90 GL5 and voila! the problem changed almost instantly, ofcourse with more and more driving it smoothly gets better but u felt it, the jamming went away almost instantly. I didn't feel it anymore and now its gone. I don't recommend redline to any1 but ofcourse that's jus me cause I had problems with it and I'm only one person, but sum will have no problems with it. jus My opinion, next thing I am gonna do though is go from Mobil1 motor oil to Eneos.

wow you hade problems with the redline..after i switch to redline i was able to get into gear easier like 1st and reverse..but that went away some what..know getting into third gear sometime is a pain but overall i had no problems with it...i might try the Eneos 75w90 see how that is.....but i also have to change my gear bushing see if that makes a difference..Redline isnt the best.... best out there but dont hurt to try everyone has the best oil.......

yeah at first it felt fine when I switched over to redline, then more and more days later it got gradually worse almost like there was no oil lubricating it, it would jam a lot in 1st and sumtimes when I'm warming up the car and ready to go none of the gears went in at all. so I was gonna wait thinkin it was bc of the cold days we've been having last week and nope it was still there so I jus said forget it and bought eneos tranny oil and IMMEDIATLY felt a difference ofcourse with more time it would feel even better (which it is) shifting is complete butter now. idk y but redline jus didn't do it for me and I only had it in for 3 weeks. I'm definatly gonna try eneos' motor oil now.

I'm not 100% sure Redline is a true synthetic. In the US companies can call group 3 oils synthetic despite the fact that they're just super-refined petroleum products. Group 4 and Group 5 are the only two oil base stocks that are truly synthesized by man. That's why I went with Motul, since they're French they can't call their group 3 oils synthetic.

idk, I went with eneos I was gonna go with motul how u said to, but I decided to go with eneos from japan, I love it so far my problem went away almost immediatly! I loved it, the redline almost felt like it was not lubercating the gears at all. jus felt rough and jammed up alott. I wouldn't recommend redline I didn't like it watsoever but this is just my opinion

well i had the redline gear oil for about 2,000 miles and seems like its getting harder to get into gears...think im goona try the Eneos 75w90.....

wow. now I know for a fact its not jus me that had problems then. it would be so hard to get into gears sumtimes especially first. and especially at idle. go with eneos bro, I've had it for sumtime now and its amazing, I regret going with redline in the first place waste of time and money. eneos 75w90 the way to go. and I jus installed doc I's bushings too its awesome lol so much more stiff and better feel to the gears

yea i knew it wasnt the best oil out there but i gave it a shot..it made things alittle better in the begining.....but seems like there a little crunching going into gears its weird...i got the doc Iso bushings also and feels nice now only if it would go into gears properly....sometimes i have to do it kinda slowly which sucks but things happen...

i just bought 3 bottles of the eneos gear oil online..so ill try that and see what happens hoefully that will fix it if not i have to check my shift cable...but pretty sure its the gear oil...

My buddy tryed to royal purple stuff for it gear oil and sayed it was the worst thing he did...so i told him o try redline most problems went away so if this eneos is better il let him know

yup that's the same thing I had crunching sounds going into gears, and only when shifting slowly it felt kinda ok also the constant weather change made it feel worse, as soon as i put the eneos in it felt immediatly better, ofcourse the presence of the redline was still there but it will go away eventually and be much better almost imediatly, jus make sure u get a lot of that redline out. and royal purple is an even bigger joke for that. but hey atleast ur going with eneos!

its not that bad but i dont like it..i want it to go into gears nice and smooth...lookin forward on using this product if it passes my 2k mark then ill keep using it but according to you it works well......as other says you gotta try different stuff and see what works for you....in a year or two getting a Mitishibushi Evo nut sure what year...but awalys love those cars just by the way they looked....or 2005 dodge neon...dont get me wrong the tc is a nice car but cant have it forever LOL.....

I know I dont own a TC, but alot of people claim that Redline is awesome for the xb's/xa's but I went with BG syncro 75w-90.

Works like a charm. Alot of european car tuners use it as well.

It might be cheaper? No clue, but its good stuff.

idk, people may think its good at first but after 2k miles not manypeople post on it, crunching grinding gears eh not worth it eneos was good for me

R u talking about redline or BG synro II? scaring me here bro.

nahh redline lol i had redline in for maybe 2000 miles. and it may have been the worst thing i have ever done, at first it was fine but then with time and sudden weather chanegs it started feeling sh*tty then to the point of the gears not even going into gear or a crunching noise getting into gears. i thought "oh sh*t, my synchros are fuked" but i changed it out to eneos and again at first felt great and it still does feel good, nothing like redline yea the presence of the redline is still in the tranny but with more and more time it started driving and shifting fine.

i just change to redline from OEM....it goes into gears smoother now feels good.....but what im heating now after a certian time problems comes back or something i thought i did a good think i just hope it doesnt happen to me i just did it the other day....

why are you gies changing your bushings to the doctor ISO ones.....is it any better i just hears its stiffer....

even though people made the change to the redline..but this DIY thread was made in 2006 3 yrs ago and most if not all people never updated this meaning they never posted how it was like after2-3000 miles of using it....they just said they changes it and everything is fine who knows what problems they made have and what they other oil they had to change to.....i know myself read this thread it seemed cool and everyone was happy that i can see maybe one or two said it was no good but i took a try first put it in it was great but have about little over 2k miles crunching gears started to happen....i talked to user rosedaleny806 and that person had very similar problem and recommed me to go to eneos so i bought and and waiting for it....but every car is different

yeah gp1817 if i were u jus drain out that redline and go with eneos bro, it may feel good at first but after a certain amount of miles it feels like complete sh*t. once u go with eneos it feels immediatly bette, but like i said before the presence of the redline is still there but with time it will go back to normal and the DR I cable bushings or any bsuhing are better cause it makes shifting precise with lack of misshifting or any of that it stiff to the point where u have feel of the gears going in

goona see what happens after 500 miles and see if problems arises .....i though i did a good thing.......now it a matter of time to wait if i start to feel grinding or crunching then ill change it right away.maybe ill pick up some of those bushings hope there easy to do

its a huge pain it felt fine at first but then after a month it got gradually worse to the point where im at idle goign threw the gears and they wouldnt go in at all, and when the weather was colder even worse. once it happens bro change them ASAP the bushing are amazing i loved them and for $27 shipped u cant go wrong for precise shifting

I think i figured out what is happening with going from OEM to redline...

You ever see a realtime mixing of lucas oil additive to high quality oils? The oil starts to bubble and break down.

So maybe the OEM fluid is causing the Redline to bubble an
d breakdown faster. The reason why it might feel better with eneos is because you get rid of the OEM/redline mix and go with eneos with a little redline left.

While it may not be a bubbling problem it could jus tbe that mixing the OEM and the redline together ruins everything after 2k.

Go with a Category 4 or 5 synthetic, like eneos or BG syncro shift II. Do a complete proper flush. Without the stupid flush ingredients.

Fill it up with the oil you want, drive it normal for 100 miles, then drive it hard for another 100. This should heat it up and get all the gunk that any oil that was in there left behind.

Drain it after some hard driving (WOT to redline) so that the oil is a loose as possible with all the gunk still in it.

Then put the good stuff in again and forget about it for another 60k.

Good luck, tell us what you think of the eneos when you put it in!

where can I find Eneos 75w90 from rose?

never had problem with redline.. using it for 10months now and its still great.. might just flush the tranny after a year and see how the oil looks

where can I find Eneos 75w90 from rose?

I got mine from a shop around my way. but I know a couple people who jus bought them online, u can check ebay or sum other places online. google it and I know there's sum places that sell them individually but then there others that sell them in crates of 6

well i got my eneos gear oil today.....just have to put it in and see what happens...Hope for the best

it will definatly be better trust me bro. GL

I just did mine with RP 75w90...i didnt go exactly by this diy...i found it was much much easier to just drain it, and refill in the refill plug...lmao...it took about 3 quarts before it started comeing out of the refill hole.

aw man I heard bad things about RP jus like redline. keep us posted to see how it is in the next couple of weeks

well we will see how it goes but ill deff post up some results...so far its just been like 2 days, so far so good.

see what happens in the first 100 miles.....i heard that the royal purple is worse then redline as far as using it for the gear oil on the tc....but each car is different..

I've been using mt-90 since 5k miles and I'm now at 21.5k miles. As of late within the last 1k miles I have noticed that the gears aren't shifting as smooth as they use to (very notchy and very slight grinds at times in second). I'll be ordering some eneos 75w 90 soon to see if it fixes the issue.

yup samething was happening to me..at first i loved it i say around 2000 miles some grinding i noticed out of no where..the reverse didnt grind as it did before but now sometimes it doesnt want to go into reverse unless i put it in neutral let off the clutch and redo it then its fine..but i bought some eneos i have it just have to put it in....i heard some rumers the redline and oem stuff donest mix to good after a period of time but with this eneos mixes better supposly thet use this in the higher end sprtos cars lime the sti's and evos..im goona give it a shot wont hurt....im hearing alot of feedback from other people that using this redline for a period of time and they having shfiting and grinding issues also...see what happens..

I'm also debating on using amsoil 75w90 gear oil. Anyone ever use it? It's a GL-4 like the mt-90 and the Eneos is GL-5.

yep urs is doing the same thing mine basically did, but mine was maybe for about a month in the car, at first it felt great, then with time it was grinding and hard to get into gears, the smoothness completely went away. good at first then after 500/1000 miles it was crap. I've had eneos for maybe idk 2/3 months now 6k miles later? and no problems. at firstit immediatly felt better but the presense of the RL is still there jus takes time for it to completely be better. eneos is definatly FTW

Anyone know a reliable source to buy the eneos gear oil?

i got it from a shop local to me, but ebay or any parts store online should have them, my06tc ordered it online i forget where

there a few places onlnie you can buy from....i bought it from here http://www.advancespeedshop.com/eneos-75w90-gear-oil-pn-mtf-p-11166.html had it within a week

I've been running Motul Gear 300 with great results as well. Getting into first while the car is moving has never been easier. This stuff might be easier to find than Eneos.

so i'm sry to ump in like this so this means u guys don't recmmon using redline mt90

where not saying its horrible where just saying after a certain period of time sometimes youll get gear grinding or sometimes ill be hard to get into a gear....different people have different results.......at first it was fine for me then after about 2000 miles of ususage i finding out that little harder to getting into certain gears but not all the time..it doest hurt to try it..it may work for you and may not..dont know unless you try it....my reverse use to grind but the redline fix that but noe sometimes it doesnt go into reverese but most times its fine...some say its the mixing of redline and oem...

would it do justice if i use a machine pump to sux out all the old tranny fluid and use it to pump in the new one

I bought mine from ebay for 10 bucks a bottle +shipping. Got it in the mail today and I ordered last weds

motul was also recommended by the performance shop I went to also. so that's also good.

i think iv now put about 200miles on the RP and everything is good so far. i dont feel any diff with it...seems stock to me.

ok that's good, wait it out a bit longer and if anything comes up let us know, maybe RP isn't as bad as every1 says.

well i did it..made the change over to enoes today...me personally i did see a little bit of a difference as far has shifting..it goes into gear little easier..easier to get into reverse...i noticed the car ran a little bit better or could be me which i wasnt expacting a big difference....Now what im experiencing now is what i experience when i first put in the redline only a little bit better...not saying this is better im only trying it out.....time will only tell for me if its better cause i had redline a little over 2k miles weird things were happening so if this pases my mark or last longer then i will recommend it but for now all it good....not expecting it to shift likea sports car cause its a scion.....and they dont have the best trannies so gotta deal with it if it doesnt do any better

ok that's good, wait it out a bit longer and if anything comes up let us know, maybe RP isn't as bad as every1 says.

im at over a 1000 miles since (1080 i think)....no problems....idk what to say guys except maybe some should learn how to drive a manual :P

lol my eneos has been perfect for a few months now idk man lol

I'll rate eneos when winter comes around. That is when my transmission woes happen. When its sub 20F out, the car will not go into gear. This past winter at 4F outside, redline did not do the job for me, it couldn't handle the cold at all.

maybe the cold has alot to do with everyones problems with other brands. it doesnt get very cold here (lowest i think was like 32f last winter) but most of the time it seems to be more in the 40's and 50's during winter. guess we will see what happens this winter.

im sure most people here knows how to drive a manual but it would be nice if we can get into gears without any crunching....i use redline for 3000 miles it was good then gears were acting up i know it wasnt me...then i switched to eneos now i can get into gear i can get into reverse more and no grinding....overall so far eneos is working for me...honeslt if the tc tranny was smooth in the first place people wouldnt be having issues yea different gear oils make it easier to go into gears but other then that..its the tranny....and bushings and everything else...

glad it worked out good man the eneos has been great for me too

ENEOS FTMFW. :)

x175623637252715367163551

how did you get the drain plug off? i can't think of any way to get it off. the big sockets i have don't leave enough room to get the wrench on and the big wrenches i have can't get all the way around >.>

it's a 15/16 socket right?

http://img2.timeinc.net/toh/i/a/tools/adjustable-wrenches-00.jpg
i use that to changed my fluid twice, there is room. Just keep trying.

i tried two different crescent wrenches and neither one of them worked. I ended up having to buy a breaker bar wrench for my socket.

ok, i changed my gear oil for the first time. i used mobil 1 75-90 and the guy at pep boys said the tc uses 5 bottles of it when i shifed into third gear it would grind when i speed shift. i read the forum here and saw that mobil 1 was bad for the tc tranny,i couldnt change my gear oil cuz i couldnt find redline mt-90 anywhere and i commute so i had the mobil 1 for about 1500 miles, i finally found a store that sells redline mt-90. so i changed it and used two bottles and alil bit of the third bottle, i didn't check to see if it was coming out of the fill plug because i was kinda in a hurry cuz i had to go to work in a hour, any way when i test drove it, third gear still grinded while speed shifting. could this be caused by too much gear oil or by having the mobil 1 for 1500 miles causing one of my synchros to go bad or something???

redline and mobil1 r both crap for our cars that's why, my gears grinded like hell and felt stiff bc of redline its horrible. u need to fill it up till it starts to leak out and that's it. there's no way u can overfill it like that cause it leaks out. if I we're u I'd drain that sh*tty redline and go with eneos 75w90 immediatly, ull notice the difference

first of all mobile 1 isnt crap for the tc.....we use it for the motor oil not the tranny...yes redline doesnt stink its not for everyone like me...i used redline for about 3000 miles at first it was nice then after awhile my gears were grinding espcially reverese.....so someone told me about eneos so i gave it a shot and all my griding went away going on just about 3000 milea again and still no issues no grinding unless its my error other then that i love it much better then redline in my opion...shifts smoother along with the doc iso cable bushings you should be set...everyone has the own unique motor oil..i personally ise mobile 1 with no problems i actually noticed little gas saving also

yes if you went to redline and having grinding issues or hard to get into gears switch to eneos or something else youll be glad you did...just give it like 100 miles or so for it to really work cause it has the tranny needs time to get rid of the rest of the redline which you may have to do another change about 5000 miles or so

I was the one that told u bout enos lol. and no mobil 1 tranny oil blows for out cars and for others how I've read, and me and my06tc have both experienced redline and it washorrible I'm on eneos since the beginning of june even before that and my car is still fine perfect shifting and all

my bad.......so far so good....no problems at all...love it....some say it doesnt make a difference but they have no idea what there missing

yeah word we both switched over and i certainly havent looked back, redline blows

im at over a 1000 miles since (1080 i think)....no problems....idk what to say guys except maybe some should learn how to drive a manual :P

now at over 3000 miles on Royal purple 75w90...everything is still good

everything is fine here with the eneos.....might do another change just to see if ican get rest of the redline out.....then do a flush then refill with the eneos again...

^ gonna be doing the same soon, jus so i can get watever was left of the redline out, but besides that its been great for a few months now.

I think I will be slightly different and go with amsoil. 1-2 shift is hard on cold/first starts and every now and then will grind slightly going in. I will bring it in to the dealer first, and if they deem everything is okay with the transmission (since I have seen quite a few threads on the tc tranny having syncro problems) then I will be doing the fluid change. Here's a link to the fluid I am thinking of:

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtg.aspx

colder weather jus takes its toll on the tc, no matter what kinda oil u have. but i still love my eneos, ill be doing another flush either in december or in february/march to start the new season

It is interesting reading all of the technical information, trying to make sense of some of it and really look towards what matters. It seems the best "pour point" Trans Fluid is the Motul Gear 300. It also has the highest Viscosity Index rating as well. Now I need to make sense of the viscosity ratings at the specified temperature. That is where I am confused haha. Am I looking to far into this? Maybe.... lol

Interesting read:

http://www.amsoil.com/products/gearlubes/WhitePaper.aspx

I am sure it is biased, but a good comparison nonetheless.

-do you have to do the change the ol fashioned way if you have the SC in the way of the other pouring point?

yeah I would assume so, or get a long funnel maybe?

It is interesting reading all of the technical information, trying to make sense of some of it and really look towards what matters. It seems the best "pour point" Trans Fluid is the Motul Gear 300. It also has the highest Viscosity Index rating as well. Now I need to make sense of the viscosity ratings at the specified temperature. That is where I am confused haha. Am I looking to far into this? Maybe.... lol

Not really. You should go to bobistheoilguy.com

Anyways IMO Motul Gear 300 is the best. No matter what the temp. outside, my tranny always shifts and feels the same. This stuff was made for race cars, but can be used in daily drivers.

Great write up, your def. gonna need a long funnel and the socket size for the drain and fill bolts is a 24mm.

Hi All,

Been lurking around these forums for while now but thought I would introduce myself here as I'm currently doing my 3rd tranny oil change based on this write up. Anyway I'm in Orange County, SoCal and I used the MT-90 from Redline up till a few months ago, I think the Redline helped accelerate the wear on my clutch and it finally bit the dust in October.

Fast forward, I have a new TRD clutch...I know, not the greatest but I needed my car up and running fast. So, I'm not really happy with how the TRD clutch is shifting with the stock fluid and after seeing some of the good things about Motul 300 Gear Oil...I've been searching for it online and locally. For you guys in SoCal and especially those who are in the OC, I found a local shop who is also online InlineFour (http://twincamtech.stores.yahoo.net/index.html) in Garden Grove. Paid them a visit last night after finding that they carry Motul 300 75W-90 Gear Oil and you can walk in and buy it in-store or order it online.

Another thing, they are a Honda shop for the most part but are looking to expand their service and parts to Scion owners and in particular the tC.

The owner Brandon is a really cool guy, he also works on the cars and is a true road racer at heart. So, if you guys are interested in finding a place nearby to buy the Motul, I highly recommend this shop. If you do make your way down there let them know that Malko referred you

going to switch to Eneos soon. is the 75w90 for the tc?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GI42DU/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B002GI08XI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1YGJCJTM99ZZRD33CQMH

thats where i got mine from also.......every other place only sold them in packs of 6 which i didnt want......

I just changed mines to a Amsoil Synthetic Gear Lube 75W-90 and what a difference from the Redline MT-90!

The Redline MT-90 after about 500-1000 miles will start to sh!t. Mines was jamming, clunking, whining, and hard to shift into gears. After i changed to Amsoil its the opposite. So far so good at about 100 miles.

Anyone ever heard of using Mobil 1 10w-40 MOTOR oil in the tranny? I have a few friends who use it in their SRT4s and they say its incredible. I know... I thought he was crazy when I first heard it but he said that motor oils and gear oils aren't rated on the same viscosity scale. Any thoughts?

why would you use motor oil in the tranny.......ive heard people tried mobile 1 gear oil and the results werent so good........but everything scion owner that i know that used redline the results were crap all switched to amsoil or eneos.....night and day difference..

I just switch to Eneos 75w90. It didn't make any difference. It feels the same as Redline fluid

my eneos cleaned up all the problems from the redline.

eneos feels nothing like redline.....its %100 better....as most will say eneos cleaned up most if not all problems related to redline if it didnt for you then give it time or switch to something else or get your tranny looked at

I wonder what tranny fluid Dan Gardner and Chris Rado uses.

motul i think

Dan Gardner is sponsored by Motul I believe.

Eagle: That's the same shop I bought my Motul from. The owner is definitely a really cool guy. You can also get Motul locally (So Cal) from these places.

Performance Nissan of Duarte
1434 Buena Vista St
Duarte CA, 91010
www.mynismo.com (http://www.mynismo.com)

West Covina Nissan
205 North Citrus Street
West Covina, CA 91791
www.thenismoshop.com (http://www.thenismoshop.com)

does putting in REDLINE MT-90 or amsoil void the manufacturer warranty.
The Scion service center mentioned that to me today.
I thought that warranty should be valid as long as you use the 75W90 GL-4 rated oil.

no it doesnt void the warrenty unless they can provide proof to you that what you did cause the problem..they will tell you it will void the warrenty cause as they would say other then OEM is not recommended

no it doesnt void the warrenty unless they can provide proof to you that what you did cause the problem..they will tell you it will void the warrenty cause as they would say other then OEM is not recommended
i am already having a problem with notchy second gear. it does not want to shift from 1st to 2nd gear on cold starts. it feels like clunking or little grinding.

on cold starts, I have problems trying to accelerate quickly from complete stop.


the mechanic at the dealership test drove it (when engine was hot ) & he says that its normal , scions (xb&tc) are supposed to have a sporty feeling and they are a little jumpy on 2nd.

i was thinking of changing gear oil to redline mt-90 to see if solves the problem.

just a quick update...been on Royal Purple 75w90 now for over 7000 miles, i really doubt there is any validity to the ye old question of "what brand is better". just saying guys. still maybe something to colder climates and proper viscosity for that kinda climate.

I am about to pick up ENEOS from amazon. GammaTNT, how many quarts did you have to buy?

you need three quarts, two and a half go in.

Do I have to jack the entire car up or can I just drive the front wheels on ramps!!! Thanks, doing in the morning finally!

when the OP says:
"While you are under the car, go ahead and remove the "fill" plug circled in red in the picture from above. We will be filling the fluid from the top of the car but by having the fill plug out, we can guarantee we wont be overfilling the trans. When fluid starts coming out of the fill plug, you know you are good to go."

how do i approach that? do i place a bucket under the fill plug? will the excess trans oil come pouring out or drip slowly? so does that mean by the time i pour in the 3rd bottle of trans fluid in, i should be periodically looking under the car to see if fluid is coming out?

yes.

Couldn't you just use a funnel and put a snug rubber hose on the end of the funnel and snake it into the fill plug (without bends of course) ?

I am doing my tomorrow. I hope i don't over tighten the drain plug like the other guys. I have a tendency to do that lol

probably one of the more useful threads ive found on here

Ok i am about to do this oil change for my car and when looking for redline oil i went to their site and this is what the site says:

"This product is not designed for use in most manual transmissions or tranaxles, since the extreme slipperiness may cause synchronizer mesh issues that lead to shifting problems"

Anyone have any problems like this?

i used royal purple 75w90 im at 3k miles since i changed it and oooooh boy i love it. no problems and shifts a lot smoother and easier, engages a lot more positively and really lets the motor run a little more toward its true potential.

one more update...

I used royal purple on my 5speed for between 15-20k miles and it let me down after I rebuilt my engine. I never noticed any problems with it till my engine build (i also replaced the clutch while i built the engine btw). so i went through the list of possible causes. I tried adjusting the clutch pedal, tried changing my shifting habits, made sure i had the proper amount of gear lube, i even went as far as throwing on a short shifter but to no avail. 2nd to 3rd would grind if I shifted too quick or 3rd to 4th. So i recently swapped over to motul 75w90 so far has been with success. no grind at all after 200 miles. Im not going to pretend to know exactly why but so far its worked. Ill wait for 20k miles though before i give a thumbs up..lol

I have a few ideas on why but again its just ideas.

im at about 12k on my royal purple and still no problems... its not perfect still but thats just the tranny... its not exactly built for craziness lol

Hey guys, I bought a used 05 scion tc with 139k miles. Car drives like a dream btw! :D

The tranny oil I believe has never been changed. Would it be safe to change it now at such high milage?

Yeah, the manual says 2.6 quarts of GL-4 or GL-5 oil type with the SAE viscosity of 75W-90. I just changed my fluids yesterday. I used Royal Purple 75W-90 synthetic and it made a significant difference!!! I'm very impressed. The engine's powerband is transferred to the wheels, the gears shift smoothly, the vehicle coasts soooo much smoother with ease, and the acceleration is linear. I'm sure my miles per gallon will increase too if I can refrain from being so heavy footed....Its the best 34 bucks I ever spent on oil....

On that note, the transaxle case ONLY took about 2.5 qts of oil before it began to leak out of the fill hole. This was a clear indicator it was full. I guess if one were to add fluids from the reverse sensor plug, you probably could get 3 qts into the transaxle case. which reminds me, how in the world did you remove the reverse sensor? Does anyone have any info on this? It would have made the job a whole lot easier....

5361

5362

This is the best pic of the sensor i could get at the moment (its a little dark out right now). Unplug the sensor, pictured in the middle here, and also unbolt the bracket directly behind it and pull the wire out of the way. Grab a deepwell 6 point socket to fit the sensor, sorry i dont recall the size i did mine a while ago, and CAREFULLY remove it. The resulting hole is where you would fill your tranny from. I was told by dealerships and other tuners alike to leave it in neutral and roll it back and forth a few feet while filling to let the fluid really get everywhere it needs to go. When the fluid starts to come out the "fill" plug on the side of the transmission you have enough in there. Let it get to a real slow drip out the side before you put the plug back in as it is possible to over fill and it will cause problems. After you are all filled up torque the sensor back down to 30 ft./lb.. Reinstall the bracket that was pushed out of the way, plug the sensor back in and you are ready to roll. *NOTE* When you are draining the old fluid out leave the reverse sensor in so the fluid comes out in a little more controllable manner.

if u still need help with it hit me up and ill do my best MRflint.

technically its not a flush, a trans flush is using a machine to cycle the fluid threw the transmission and the trans line but since a manual doesnt cycles the fluid the same way its not being flushed, more like a drain and fill