Just got it today, waiting for my gaskets to arrive at the local dealership. should have it in tomorrow. This is still a semi prototype. Strup has asked me to let them know about any fitment issues. this is one beautiful header tho! (Sorry pics kinda blurry. more to come.)

--EDIT--
Install COMPLETE. Overall the worst part of the whole thing (and it really was easier than i thought) was taking off the stock header. boy that thing sucked, although it could have been worse. I used Kaeon's full write-up on his DC header install (http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=56520) to remove my stock header. After that its a pretty straight forward screw the bolts back on with the new header :)
So below is the photo journal. I apologize, these photos were taken with my camera phone, so they are a bit large and fuzzy, but clear enough. Enjoy.

New header arrives straight from Strup
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/IMG_0561.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/IMG_0559.jpg

After the stock header is off, replace the manifold gasket (some people re-use, but i say better safe than sorry)
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/strup%20header%20install/DSC00208.jpg
Then slide the header onto the manifold bolts. I suggest wiping down the whole outside of the header with some mild detergent and warm water to remove prints etc.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/strup%20header%20install/DSC00209.jpg
Then we use some metal assembly paste onto the manifold bolts to slide the nuts on easier, and to prevent them from being a complete pain if by chance i need to remove the header again.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/strup%20header%20install/DSC00210.jpg
Hand tigten the bolts back on using a 12mm socket. This left most nut had to be tightened with an open wrench.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/strup%20header%20install/DSC00214.jpg

Then slide under the car (on jackstands) and hand tighten the spring bolts back on (9/16ths)
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/strup%20header%20install/DSC00212.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/strup%20header%20install/DSC00215.jpg
Finally tighten all the bolts to the manifold to 20lbs/foot with a torque wrench (says Kaeon are the specs). Then tighten the spring bolts underneath the car until you feel the shoulder seat. then tighten a bit more.
we added just a tad bit of the metal assembly paste to the THREADS of the O2 sensor.. be very careful not to get anything on the end of the sensor.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/strup%20header%20install/DSC00216.jpg
Sensor in
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/strup%20header%20install/DSC00217.jpg
and we're done.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/strup%20header%20install/DSC00219.jpg
After 1st test run
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/strup%20header%20install/DSC00220.jpg
Unfortunately i dont have a dyno in town so sorry i cant help out there, so i too had to use the butt dyno. I can deffinitely feel a difference, and it even seems to help out on the lower RPMs that it seemed my K&N CAI took from me. I dont have an aftermarket exhaust system yet, as i am waiting for Strup to finish their cat back for the tC. So as far as sound, i hear just a oooh soo slight rasp (but NOT rice) and just a tad lower rumble, and pretty much no difference at idle.
So there you have it. I'll try to answer any questions to the best of my meager ability.

I am VERY pleased! Way to go Strup! :bow:
Visit Strup.us to order yours (http://www.strup.us) [/url]

let me know how it goes.

make sure you wipe it down with brake cleaner or alcohol before you start the engine the 1st time to keep it looking nice

Cool looking! Probably yield the same results as the DC Header.

the pics are not working - please fix - i just sent out a M/O for these! Woot!

i would like to know the hp gain w/ the header. the pics are working for me.

Bump this for more pics

let us know how she fits

ill take a few more good photos tonight.
they are big so give them time to load.
Strup recommends using mild degergent soap to clean the header before its used
Ive been quoted 8-12 hp increase (im guessing whp), site says 8-10.

actually the site says it yields 10-12 whp but another member here had it and said that it netted 18whp for him once it was installed (he dynoed be4 the install and after so don't come back with "maybe with exhaust")

looks nice. would like to see dyno numbers.. i guess the MMW still hold the crown for most HP/TQ.

actually the site says it yields 10-12 whp but another member here had it and said that it netted 18whp for him once it was installed (he dynoed be4 the install and after so don't come back with "maybe with exhaust")

18hp?? i find that just a tad hard to beleive.. any chance that member on here have a dyno sheet??? im interested in seeing were the the power starts in the power band and how it carries out through the rest of the power band.

actually the site says it yields 10-12 whp
I stand corrected! tho i like 10-12 better anyway!!!

UPDATE: Stock header is off. It started off pretty easy (being as my car is only just over a year old) but let me tell you.. those brackets that hold the bottom of the header on to the car are REAL fun to get off. I used Kaeon's write up on the DC header install to remove the stock (Excellent instructions, however 1. i didnt need to use WD-40, and 2. those bolts for the brackets are 14mm) I'm done for the night. I'll fill yall in with more later.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/strup%20header%20install/IMG_0566.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/strup%20header%20install/IMG_0566.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g309/refractured/strup%20header%20install/IMG_0570.jpg

site says 12
APPARENTLY makes close to 20

can we see some numbers from you

20 was with a s/c and pully - 12 sounds like a very realistic number on a noninduction since there is a lot less air to begin with.

i kno he had s/c
but they are still claiming more than 12

looks good so far....

bling bling...

is it necessary to buy a new gasket from the dealership?

thats a good thing that they ask you to let them know of any fitment issues. cuz i emailed alphawerks and let them know about their fitment issues, ha!...NO RESPOND. I will never ever buy alphawerks brand ever again.

^^^fitment issue??
dont wanna get off topic, but i had one of the first sets out, no issue at all

is it necessary to buy a new gasket from the dealership?
Well im not sure if your question is more of "is it necessary to buy a new gasket?" or is it neccisary to buy a new gaket FROM THE DEALERSHIP?
I would say yes to the first question and no to the 2nd. i just needed mine faster than i could get it online. The manifold gasket was deffinitely not useable (no cracks but it was flattened pretty good). The donut gasket on the bottom could probably be used again. Im just keeping it on the safe side.

is it necessary to buy a new gasket from the dealership?
Well im not sure if your question is more of "is it necessary to buy a new gasket?" or is it neccisary to buy a new gaket FROM THE DEALERSHIP?
I would say yes to the first question and no to the 2nd. i just needed mine faster than i could get it online. The manifold gasket was deffinitely not useable (no cracks but it was flattened pretty good). The donut gasket on the bottom could probably be used again. Im just keeping it on the safe side.

yes, what i meant to ask is if you needed a new gasket all together. How much does a new manifold gasket and donut gasket cost?

i paid like $60. that stupid donut gasket is like $32 alone!

pays to work at dealership

I reused both of my stock gaskets and have no leaks wth my AW

^^
thats what i planned on doing, until i read this thread lol

pays to work at dealership
aw, wheres the love (*cough* hookup *cough*).

Anyway, i'd rather pay an extra $60 for peace of mind. but thats me.

i paid like $60. that stupid donut gasket is like $32 alone!

I would say to reuse the donut and just get the other one. If you are scrapped for cash ..just use the one it came with if its in good condition. You would figure that a car a year old or less then a year old should be ok.

i paid like $60. that stupid donut gasket is like $32 alone!

I would say to reuse the donut and just get the other one. If you are scrapped for cash ..just use the one it came with if its in good condition. You would figure that a car a year old or less then a year old should be ok.

Yup. Just keep them in good shape when doing the removal and you should be fine.

Please let us know how this turns out for you, I am looking forward to seeing the results :)

Well im not scrapped for cash (esp when it comes to my car!)
Install was very easy (after stock header was removed). It sounds, feels, and fantastic. Highly reccomended. Sorry i dont have any dynos :-/
I updated my 1st post btw to be a complete photo tour if you will...

Heres the link to my Strup Header Thread.
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=118175&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=0

I made 20WHP from this header. Good Luck!!!

Heres the link to my Strup Header Thread.
http://www.scionlife.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=118175&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=0

I made 20WHP from this header. Good Luck!!!

we know, thats what we are still debating
it makes 20whp on s/c tC
but what about N/A motor
and my clutch is still delayed, so it will be a lil more tme before i get dynod

what the heck kind of clutch is it that takes this long to arrive?

one thats not in stock from one of my sponsors

stupid non-stock items. That frustrates me. I hate waiting...especially when I drop a ton of cash...makes me nervous.

one thats not in stock from one of my sponsors

What kinda clutch? What company?

clutch masters stage II
clutch masters flywheel

stupid non-stock items. That frustrates me. I hate waiting...especially when I drop a ton of cash...makes me nervous.

i dropped a good amount of cash in the last week or so
but didn't drop that much on the clutch/flywheel since its from one of my partial sponsors
i hate paying full price

unfortunately some of us have no other option.

nice! so once you turn on the car and the header heats up, it turns to that burnt blue instead of the shiny bronze like the AW?

yeah, I do like the blueing of the pipes.

I say no more than the DC header gained. Looks guys, they are like the exact same header! If I could go back though I would have loved to have this one though. That thing is freakin gorgeous!!!

nice! so once you turn on the car and the header heats up, it turns to that burnt blue instead of the shiny bronze like the AW?
Yup. its due to the stainless steel heating up. However the Strup logo on the pipe (which is a stainless badge) so far stayed stainless.. it looks tight!

nice! so once you turn on the car and the header heats up, it turns to that burnt blue instead of the shiny bronze like the AW?
Yup. its due to the stainless steel heating up. However the Strup logo on the pipe (which is a stainless badge) so far stayed stainless.. it looks tight!

give it time

so far so good!

does it have a bracket support like the stock header?

no.

color is hot

You get a CEL or anything ?

^bump.

You get a CEL or anything ?

Yes sir.

got a CEL, that is not a good thing to hear.

got a CEL, that is not a good thing to hear.

why does that suprise you? Im not trying to say that nasty ...but all headers are going to throw the cell. The sensor is reading the whole values and is doing what it was designed to do. Unless you reposition the sensor or get the antifouler or whatever the other thing is called ....you will have that problem.

whoa, yours actually fits? i had a friend who got one, it didnt fit for crap. but it does look sexy, almost like the DC Sports header but in stainless steel. and the color looks hot.

got a CEL, that is not a good thing to hear.

why does that suprise you? Im not trying to say that nasty ...but all headers are going to throw the cell. The sensor is reading the whole values and is doing what it was designed to do. Unless you reposition the sensor or get the antifouler or whatever the other thing is called ....you will have that problem.

I agree with justin (jwaggz82). Its not a surpirse at all. Every header out there will give u a CEL. I used 4 non-foulers and it kept the light off. Good luck finding a header that dosent give a CEL.

whoa, yours actually fits? i had a friend who got one, it didnt fit for crap. but it does look sexy, almost like the DC Sports header but in stainless steel. and the color looks hot.

No the header did not fit. But i wasnt letting that stop me! Only took 10 mins. to grind an egged shaped hole to make it fit. Its nothing to go crazy over. And yes the header does look sexy. On another post
www.partshippers.com is giving 5% off. Thats a steal IMO. Check it out!

Didn't they say this fitting issue was solved?

Didn't they say this fitting issue was solved?

Thats correct. Being that i had #1 of the strup tc headers and me not having my car in time when i recieved the header, i couldnt find out sooner.

OK.. ive had my header in for a while now so i thought i would give an update. 1. I LOVE IT. it sounds, feels and looks killer. 2. i too got a CEL, and got the 2 antifoulers mentioned in the DC header install post (link to it in my first post in this thread). Tho thats where i ran into a mishap. My o2 sensor threads on the S pipe was gummed up.. i could not for the life of me get it out (even rounded the damn thing). So i had to take it in to a local muffler shop, have the sucker removed, bought a new O2 sensor (flippin $100--- 130 at the dealer!). it sucked. However, I seem to be CEL free for now. (so that extra cash spent was b/c my sensor was ****ed from the factory.
I probably received the #3 of the strup headers.

OK.. ive had my header in for a while now so i thought i would give an update. 1. I LOVE IT. it sounds, feels and looks killer. 2. i too got a CEL, and got the 2 antifoulers mentioned in the DC header install post (link to it in my first post in this thread). Tho thats where i ran into a mishap. My o2 sensor threads on the S pipe was gummed up.. i could not for the life of me get it out (even rounded the damn thing). So i had to take it in to a local muffler shop, have the sucker removed, bought a new O2 sensor (flippin $100--- 130 at the dealer!). it sucked. However, I seem to be CEL free for now. (so that extra cash spent was b/c my sensor was ****ed from the factory.
I probably received the #3 of the strup headers.

Awesome man!! Glad u love it. Spread the word.. Get it dynoed

wouldnt a bad sensor be covered under warranty?

wouldnt a bad sensor be covered under warranty?

if indeed thats what the problem is

wouldnt a bad sensor be covered under warranty?
It wasnt a bad sensor. the threads were warped, and it was stuck. the warranty wont cover it unless it was malfunctioning... then they would want to know why i wanted to take it off in the first place.... im pretty sure they wont like seeing what ive done to it now!

wouldnt a bad sensor be covered under warranty?
It wasnt a bad sensor. the threads were warped, and it was stuck. the warranty wont cover it unless it was malfunctioning... then they would want to know why i wanted to take it off in the first place.... im pretty sure they wont like seeing what ive done to it now!

what was all that caused by?

watching

i still want to see some dyno numbers..

wow.. i love the look!!

Just got mine installed about 2 weeks ago. Looks soooo sexy!!

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/powerofSHN/tC/091607/EngineBay_08.jpg

http://i208.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/powerofSHN/tC/091607/EngineBay_18.jpg

For sure - my header was realy shiny but now its a grey color .... Performance wise you can tell it performs better and it fit perfect. Its been about a year and ive had no problems

is it necessary to buy a new gasket from the dealership?

no you should be able to buy it anywhere

Use the same gasket you have - A new car wouldnt need a new gasket (hence the new gasket that you currently have on your car) hehe