I am about to build my enclosure box, but I need a few more tips...

Is it a good idea to put the amp in the area next to the spare? I am not familiar with amps so I am not sure if I need to access the damned thing. I wanted it like this...



If I do need to access it, I was thinking of putting the amp above my enclosure box, which would shrink my enclosure. I want my enclosure to fit underneath my Cargo Cover which would require the dimensions of...



Please advise, I was thinking of putting the amp underneath the passengers seat, if that is easy. Btw, I am using 2x 12" Kicker Subs w/ Kicker ZX300.1 Amp.

Also, how do I wire the subs? Do I wire it like this?




Hehe, cheap pictures. =D Btw, the width is about 37".

EDIT: Is an xB wiring harness needed to connect the stock OEM HEAD UNIT to the AMP?

 

I'm assuming that you are saying that the width of the sub box is going to be 37", right? Because that drawing you have certainly doesn't show enough room for 2 12" subs.
I have my amp mounted under the driver's seat and it worked out great. On top of the box would also work, but you need to realize that it will be easier to see, and if you need to take the sub box out for any reason, then you'll need to be able to disconnect or move the amp. In that compartment next to the spare could work, but you need to make sure the amp can get adequate ventilation. That might mean adding some fans to keep the amp cool. Wherever you choose to mount the amp, you will want to have access to it for adjustments and troubleshooting if you run into any issues.

 

Yeah, I forgot to add the width, it will be 37". As it is the whole width of the xB.

Where did you put your jack? I don't want to sacrafice any safety. >_> And putting the jack in the "secret" compartment would be too inconvient to access if the enclosure box was ontop of it.

I think I will just put the amp above the box. It still has 3+ cubic feet.

Anyone know if I got the wiring right?

 

 

Exactly what Kicker 12" are you running? Parallel wiring will work fine if they are single 4ohm voice coil woofers. The ZX300.1 will feed them approximately 300 watts if they are wired this way. If not, then you may have to consider a different wiring scheme.

 

I am using 2 12" Kicker Comp Subs.

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Kicke...oductDetail.do

 

Parallel wiring will be ideal. Just be careful when setting your gains. The ZX300.1 feeds approximately 300 watts RMS at 2 ohms, which should jam those Comps very well.
Have fun and don't blow your woofs!

 

i have two 10" compVR. I think they suck, they bottom out on most bass frequencies. i guess i just need to save the money and get some L7's

 

Hmmm... Im guessing Parallel wiring is the one I have listed above right?

Also, I am using the FACTORY HEAD UNIT, I will change it later, >_>, but will I need any special wiring to connect it to my Kicker Amp?

I did get a Kicker Amp Wiring Kit but I keep reading about some xB Radio Harness... Do I need that?

 

i'll be fitting a JBL BPX2200.1 in that small section to the right of the spare. a PX300.4 under the 2200.1... tight fit for the 2200.1 but it will fit and i'll have a diffrent window on it about an inch thick so when i make the cover to go over the spare and amps, the window will come up flush with the cover board and have some blue neon going on so it looks nice and clean with my subs formed to the quater panels for maximum space saving.

 

Do I need an "xB Radio Harness" if I keep my OEM Head Unit?

 

ur gonna need an output converter, like $20

 

Something like this?

http://cgi.ebay.com/PAC-Trunk-Loc-Ad...QQcmdZViewItem

Can you point me to the right one I need? I am using 2x 12" Kicker Subs w/ ZX 300.1 Kicker Amp.

 

You can pick up Line Output Converters (LOCs) just about anywhere... Stereo shops, Wal-Mart, Best Buy, Circuit City, etc., etc.. They usually run around $20 for a decent one. What it does is convert your speaker outputs from the stock stereo into RCA outputs. They are very simple to put in, just follow the instructions.
...and to answer your previous question, yes, parallel wiring is what you have pictured in the diagram above. Basically, all the positives are connected together including the amplifier's positive lead, and all the negatives are connected together including the amp's negative lead.

 

Thanks, is there anything "different" about the LOCs? What wattage do I need?

 

Bump, I am going to do this on Friday. =D

 

The stock HU doesn't put out enough wattage to kill any of the LOC's that are easily obtained. Just make sure you follow the directions and set all your LOC gains down before you start testing... remember you might want to put the LOC in a somewhat accesible area (i.e. not stuffed behind the HU up in the dash) since you might need to make gain adjustments on it to make everything sound right.