TLDR: My Battery keeps draining, Bad fuel injector leak, Suspension..ect
#1
TLDR: My Battery keeps draining, Bad fuel injector leak, Suspension..ect
I think this is in the right sub category cause it could be connected to the engine. I talked about having to replace my alternator at the mechanics and way before that I did the battery but my car’s battery still dies have any of you had issues with batteries dying? I’m gonna have to see what happens when I daily drive it (I’m gonna put like 40 miles a week plus work) but I’m afraid I’m gonna drain the battery when nobody can pick me up or the car just doesn’t start when I need to leave I’ve replaced the alternator in hopes it’d fix it (203,000 miles stock alternator) and replaced the battery first because it was easier and if that fixed it I would’ve left it, I think my car has something electronic draining the battery or has a bad electrically related issue there’s no reason it should die after a week (we have a Jeep that hasn’t moved in like a month and still starts) and that thing has a old battery and alternator but the main issue is I want to install my head unit (should use the same or less voltage then stock) and maybe some speakers when I fix the rest of the car I need connecting rod bearings and fuel system repairs. What do you guys think is making my battery drain , also my suspension rides roughly even though it’s brand new is like our 2 inch lifter ranger on all terrains I’m on 205/50/15’s I don’t care about the noise but I want to work on the shake I think my front wheel bearings are no good (I’m getting $100 soon) the rear ones aren't that good but they spin freely I’m getting that metallic sound which means I’m rubbing or that my wheel bearings are bad , I changed the brake pads in the front (I’m not touching the rear for quite a bit of miles) I’m gonna change the front rotors I also think my tires are super off balance it looks like they slapped a bunch of weights in a straight line and pretended like they did a proper balance because I get some light steering shake (my tie rods and rest of suspension is perfect and I think should be pretty aligned as they’re the same exact ones as on the car and all I did was swap them without messing with the locking nut so I think i need wheel bearings I’m on horrible roads so I really need that suspension to not make the sounds it makes.
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-11-2021 at 12:21 AM. Reason: Thread Closed
#2
Get a voltmeter and check voltage at battery posts with engine running. At 2000rpm it should read close to 14V.
Metallic sound can be the squealers on brake pads telling you something. Don't Xb Mk1's have drums in the rear?
Do you have alloy rims? They often need a lot of correction as the castings can have porosity.
HF has a tire bubble balancer for for $90, it will get you close.
Metallic sound can be the squealers on brake pads telling you something. Don't Xb Mk1's have drums in the rear?
Do you have alloy rims? They often need a lot of correction as the castings can have porosity.
HF has a tire bubble balancer for for $90, it will get you close.
#3
Get a voltmeter and check voltage at battery posts with engine running. At 2000rpm it should read close to 14V.
Metallic sound can be the squealers on brake pads telling you something. Don't Xb Mk1's have drums in the rear?
Do you have alloy rims? They often need a lot of correction as the castings can have porosity.
HF has a tire bubble balancer for for $90, it will get you close.
Metallic sound can be the squealers on brake pads telling you something. Don't Xb Mk1's have drums in the rear?
Do you have alloy rims? They often need a lot of correction as the castings can have porosity.
HF has a tire bubble balancer for for $90, it will get you close.
it’s a xA not a xB but it still has a rear drum brake. I think I’m having wheel bearing issues as they’re 16 years old and 203,000+ miles and they have some play unless I get this dishwasher job I have only like $113 in my pocket to resolve it.
About the metallic sound I have fresh pads on the brakes just crap rotors that are way over due but I have to wait on the rotors. Extremely short on cash for my car I did all the major safety stuff in the minimum I have brakes and steering I have Triple A if my car blows up.
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-10-2021 at 07:16 PM. Reason: Merged Posts
#4
Yup, battery drains because it's not fully disconnected when you turn key off. Something's still connected and flowing current. So... pull out multimeter and measure...
1. disconnect battery +terminal
2. set meter to 10-amp range
3. connect +positive (red) probe of meter to +terminal of battery
4. connect -negative (blk) probe to +12 battery cable
5. meter should read power drain. What is this number?
1. disconnect battery +terminal
2. set meter to 10-amp range
3. connect +positive (red) probe of meter to +terminal of battery
4. connect -negative (blk) probe to +12 battery cable
5. meter should read power drain. What is this number?
#5
Yup, battery drains because it's not fully disconnected when you turn key off. Something's still connected and flowing current. So... pull out multimeter and measure...
1. disconnect battery +terminal
2. set meter to 10-amp range
3. connect +positive (red) probe of meter to +terminal of battery
4. connect -negative (blk) probe to +12 battery cable
5. meter should read power drain. What is this number?
1. disconnect battery +terminal
2. set meter to 10-amp range
3. connect +positive (red) probe of meter to +terminal of battery
4. connect -negative (blk) probe to +12 battery cable
5. meter should read power drain. What is this number?
#6
Effective troubleshooting, as in fast and inexpensive, requires testing and measuring to determine what's wrong. Blindly replacing good perfectly working parts with brand-new good perfectly working parts changes nothing and symptoms persist. This wastes money needlessly.
Get $1 9v battery from DollarTree for your multimeter and find your wiring leak. Would've saved you cost of new battery. And probably alternator too.
Get $1 9v battery from DollarTree for your multimeter and find your wiring leak. Would've saved you cost of new battery. And probably alternator too.
#7
i have to go buy a battery for my multimeter , I think my radio that’s broken in the car is drawing 12v when it’s off it takes like 5 days I think to die but when it’s being driven I have to check, I’m swapping in a new radio with probably more efficient headlights I think I probably either have a bad ground or it’s my stock radio that’s broken either that or my computer is ____y and drawing when I shut it off I need to test the stock radio for current draw or else my new head unit will be just as bad
#9
I think this is in the right sub category cause it could be connected to the engine. I talked about having to replace my alternator at the mechanics and way before that I did the battery but my car’s battery still dies have any of you had issues with batteries dying? I’m gonna have to see what happens when I daily drive it (I’m gonna put like 40 miles a week plus work) but I’m afraid I’m gonna drain the battery when nobody can pick me up or the car just doesn’t start when I need to leave I’ve replaced the alternator in hopes it’d fix it (203,000 miles stock alternator) and replaced the battery first because it was easier and if that fixed it I would’ve left it, I think my car has something electronic draining the battery or has a bad electrically related issue there’s no reason it should die after a week (we have a Jeep that hasn’t moved in like a month and still starts) and that thing has a old battery and alternator but the main issue is I want to install my head unit (should use the same or less voltage then stock) and maybe some speakers when I fix the rest of the car I need connecting rod bearings and fuel system repairs. What do you guys think is making my battery drain , also my suspension rides roughly even though it’s brand new is like our 2 inch lifter ranger on all terrains I’m on 205/50/15’s I don’t care about the noise but I want to work on the shake I think my front wheel bearings are no good (I’m getting $100 soon) the rear ones aren't that good but they spin freely I’m getting that metallic sound which means I’m rubbing or that my wheel bearings are bad , I changed the brake pads in the front (I’m not touching the rear for quite a bit of miles) I’m gonna change the front rotors I also think my tires are super off balance it looks like they slapped a bunch of weights in a straight line and pretended like they did a proper balance because I get some light steering shake (my tie rods and rest of suspension is perfect and I think should be pretty aligned as they’re the same exact ones as on the car and all I did was swap them without messing with the locking nut so I think i need wheel bearings I’m on horrible roads so I really need that suspension to not make the sounds it makes.
__________________
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-11-2021 at 12:09 AM. Reason: Awarded 10 Yr Badge
#11
Administrator
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: State of Confusion: CA
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You are 19 years young and got a Lot to learn.
You are Not in the Hood, Kid.
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Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-11-2021 at 09:18 PM.
#13
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: State of Confusion: CA
Posts: 2,583
You are Not Fluent in Grammar, Punctuation, and Net Etiquette.
On this Forum you are rude to others who use proper grammar and sentences.
Same Reason, you don't use ALL CAPS (Shouting) or Lower Case (Whispering).
Your Don't Run On Sentences showing immaturity and disrespect to others.
Announcement: Why is the Moderator editing our posts?
This Thread is Now Closed.
___
Last edited by MR_LUV; 08-11-2021 at 12:25 AM. Reason: This Thread is Now Closed.
#14
Ah yes, the new generation..."Hey, I know I'm asking you for help but it's your job to interpret and understand what I'm asking, not mine. Now tell me what's wrong."
@LordWayback I thought your mother was making you sell the car...seems that would have been the best option given your limited budget to fix any issues you might have caused.
@LordWayback I thought your mother was making you sell the car...seems that would have been the best option given your limited budget to fix any issues you might have caused.
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