mvsquare

We need to pull the engine out of our 2004 xB. We have a replacement engine we got it is a 2004 xA engine which we have been told is the same, it is a manual transmission. I also have the online manual. My father has worked on engines most of his life but this is his first "new school" engine.

From this forum I have been able to determine that the manual has us pulling a lot of things we don't need to pull. Is it best to pull the whole engine and transmission out the front if only the engine needs to be replaced? (My question) - one of the posters said it is easiest to pull both out as one out the front.

If I was going to print portions of the online manual what sections should I print.

Currently I am looking at section 14-27 and all the sections related to that.

From what I gather if we go by the manual it would take 12-14 hours if we go by other posters it should take 4 hours - removing the intake, intake manifold, exhaust maniforld, front bumper and passenger headlight, plastic piece attached to radiator with cap, upper bar that goes between the headlights with hood release, unbolting but not disconnecting power steerig and a/c lines, removing drive shafts and 3 mounts to pull out the front.

My dad will be doing the wor, and I was hoping to give him some guidance without orderind the whole manual. Any help would be apppreciated!!

Thanks!

ajcadoo

I wouldn't skimp on a manual if you are replacing an entire engine. Spend the money and avoid future headaches. Replacing engines on such compact cars like ours are going to be a pain in the butt, so I would recommend just getting the manual.

Ford_Falcon

I'm not sure how comprehensive the online manual is. I picked up my xB FSM from ebay on a CD/DVD for about $15. I can just print off the pages as I need them.

I would imagine it'd be easier just to take the engine and trans out as one since it's front wheel drive.

vettereddie

Hello, thanks for the question. I've had to pull mine about 5 times now, took puctures for a DIY but have not done the write-up yet. It's about 12 hours start to finish, including harnesses, trim, filling fluid, etc. You won't be able to pull engine + trans. from the top, every time I did it I've only pulled the engine. As a bonus though, you won't need to pull the drive axles. On the tC, it's easier to pull engine + trans as one though. Here's the short version from what I've learned:

1) Transmission doesn't matter. The only difference is the flywheel that's bolted to the engine, 6 bolts is an easy swap, reuse the one from the engine you're pulling.

2) Drain the oil and coolant before removing anything.

3) Removal order: Hood, vent cover plastic below the windshield, wiper motor, metal tray below wiper motor, front bumper, passenger side wheel (driver side can stay), intake, intake manifold w/ throttle body, coolant lines (upper & lower), alternator, a/c compressor (leave lines hooked up), power steering pump (again, leave lines hooked up), starter, 6 bolts holding the flywheel to the transmission (little window on bottom side of engine, facing transmission), heat shield and exhaust header, engine harnesses

4) At this point, you'll want an engine lift or hoist to support the engine. Pull the passenger side motor mount and rear motor mount. Lower the engine a bit to get the bolts for the water pump pulley, and then water pump. Pull the water pump with the engine raised a bit so it clears over the frame rail. It's almost impossible to get clearance to separate from the transmission with the water pump still there. Lower the engine and pull the crank pulley, again this gives more clarance to the frame rail.

5) Undo all the external bolts holding the transmission to the engine. Pry the engine from the transmission. Pull the engine out and you're done.

Reverse to put the new one in.

vettereddie

Oh, and there's also this:

Scion Docs - Zipped

Full service manual, wiring diagrams, TSB's, etc. Good luck with the pull.

ratcityrain

Vettereddie,
Thanks for posting the above. I am about to tackle this on my 2005 in the next couple weeks. I sent a rod out the side of the motor so now I have to replace the motor. Everyone makes it sound so easy, but I am certain there will be complications.

Thanks for the write up, it does help a lot

pasciontc

about to tackle this on my brothers 2006 Camo xb 5speed took a ____ at 110k cylinder 1 piston dressing or some metal passed through and DEMOLISHED the plug and cylinder. the car wont even atttempt to crank and figured the motor is so cheap and common a full replace is better than fixing his which will probably require a lot of LABOR a mahine shop etc. ill let yall see what we did ASAP ill try to DIY the whole thang to add to this thread!

TheScionicMan

I'm pretty much using this as a checklist for replacing my 1NZFE. If anyone else has any tips, tricks or DIY step-by-steps, please post a link. Thanks. Blew a head gasket at 255K miles.

TheScionicMan

Sorry to bump this old thread but this link isn't working. If you still have those files, I'd love you long time.

sdsnybny

iTrader: (1)

A couple of years ago Toyota/Scion threatened Law Suites for hosting this propitiatory info as well as making several businesses that had Scion in there name for years to "cease and desist" or else. you can buy them online, find them on a pirated site, or find someone who downloaded them at the start to a hard drive. pm me your email

TheScionicMan

With the help of vettereddie's rundown and some other internet resources , I was able to successfully swap my engine with a used 1NZFE. I used partmyride.com to find it. Having the rundown was a great way to stay focued and not jump from place to place randomly. I worked on it on weekends in my garage and then got help from my brother who has an engine lift when it got to the swap. Things I would suggest if you are going to do this, especially over a long time period:

1) Take lots of pictures. I used my smartphone and snapped multiple pics of each component or area. I also snapped pics of the electrical connectors as I disconnected things. Most of the connectors and hoses will only reach their intended locations, but there were a few that being able to see it helped avoid confusion.

2) Tag it and bag it. Get a stack of ziplock baggies and a sharpie and bag and label all of the bolts and small hardware as you remove it. This was really helpful since many of the bolts look the same but aren't. Also a good way to confirm you've connected a component properly.

3) Torque Converter. If you have an automatic, don't let the torque converter slide out when you pull the engine. Luckily my brother spotted it before it came off of the splines and caused all kinds of problems.

Thanks to those who helped and good luck to anyone that tries it. If you've got moderate DIY skills it is pretty straightforward. The hardest part was those stupid hose clamps.

PhillyCamoBox

im gonna try this i hope in the next few months.. idk though ive lost a ton of interest