DIY: Longer rear wheel studs
03-27-2006, 03:47 PM
#1
Senior Member
SL Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 1,974
DIY: Longer rear wheel studs
Although I don't have pics of the entire process, I figured I'd do a write-up of how to install longer rear studs. I learned a lot through this proceses, and hopefully it'll help others.
For this project, you'll need the following tools:
•Jack and jackstands
•Wheel blocks/chocks
•10mm, 12mm and 14mm sockets
•Two flatehead screwdrivers
•Rubber mallet
•Several 1/2" washers
•Metal bar
•Lug wrench
•Torque wrench
I bought H&R's 15mm wheel spacers, which require using logner wheel studs.
1) Loosen wheel lugs. Don't take them all the way off, just loosen them.
2) Make sure your front wheels have blocks/chocks under them, and that the car is in gear because you need to have the emergency brake off to remove the drums. Jack up the car, insert jack stands. I jacked my car up at the side jack points, and inserted stands right behind the jack points on the metal "pinch"
3) Remove wheel
4) Make sure your e-brake is OFF! Remove brake drum. Some have had luck hitting the drums with a hammer. I used a four-pound rubber mallet with no luck.
If this is the case, there are two small holes next to the stud openings. These are thredded and are for backing the drums off the hubs.
•Use a 12mm bolt (I'm not sure of the pitch; it may be 1.25), slowly turning the bolt until the drum comes off. If this doesn't work, there's a small access hole in the back of the drum that's plugged by a one-inch rubber stopper.
•Using a screwdriver, you can lift a small lever, then turn a wheel with some teeth on it (go counter clockwise) until the brake shoes ease up and you should be able to get the drum off.
5) This is what you'll see with the drum off
Using a hammer, I pounded out the studs from the hub. I used a regular metal hammer; my rubber mallet didn't work so well. A hard plastic hammer would probably work well, too.
6) When all the studs are removed, now it's time to put in the new studs.
You can see the H&R studs are 20mm longer than the stock studs, which requires you to take the hub off of the car.
As you can see, there isn't enough space to put in the longer studs without removing the hub.
7) Unbolting the hub is a multi-stop process. The hub area is the darker-colored circular part of the assembly (thanks to whoever took this photo)
•To unbolt the hub, first unclip the ABS sensor.
•Next, using a 10mm socket, remove the bolt holding the ABS sensor cord. Also remove the bolt holding the e-brake cable.
•Then, using a 14mm socket, remove the bolt holding the bracket, which holds barke line.
•On the back of the hub are four bolts. These are the four bolts that mate the hub to the back of the drum and/or dustplate. Unscrew these with a 12mm socket. You may need an extension to get at them. Be careful not the hit the metal brake line, though.
•Do NOT remove the brake line itself from the back of the drum unless you intend on bleeding the brakes. Instead, making sure the e-brake and ABS cables are unbolted/unhooked, wiggle the entire drum/hub assembly off of the rear beam, again, being careful not to bend or damage the brake line.
•While holding the entire assembly with one hand (remember, the brake line is still attached), carefully tap the back of the hub (round part with ABS sensor) out from the dustplate assembly. You can use a metal hammer, just be careful not to hit the ABS sensor. The entire hub assembly should pop out.
At this point, I put, make sure the brake assembly is not just hanging by the brake line. I simply looped the ABS cord around its respective bolt to secure it while I put the new studs in.
8: Insert the new studs. Don't worry about securing them. Just put them in the holes.
9) Reassemble the brake/hub unit, double checking to make sure everything is secure and properly tightend down.
10) Now it's time to seat the new studs.
I went to Home Depot and bought several 1/2" washers.
•With the hub on the car again (and fully secured) put several washers onto a loose stud.
•Next, put a stock lugnut onto a stud. Hand-tighten until the stud his held in place.
•With a lug wrench, or a deep socket, tighten the studs until they're seated. I positioned a metal bar inbetween the studs to keep the hub from spinning while seating the lugs. The seating process will require a lot of torquing and wrenching. Make sure the stud is 100% seated, though. Air tools would be nice here.
11) Reinstall the drum cover. If you had to loosen the rear drums, make sure you readjust the brakes so they function properly. To get the drum on, you may need to lightly tap them with a rubber mallet.
12) I now put my 15mm spacer on. Success!
Remember to torque everything down correctly, and you should be good to go!
For this project, you'll need the following tools:
•Jack and jackstands
•Wheel blocks/chocks
•10mm, 12mm and 14mm sockets
•Two flatehead screwdrivers
•Rubber mallet
•Several 1/2" washers
•Metal bar
•Lug wrench
•Torque wrench
I bought H&R's 15mm wheel spacers, which require using logner wheel studs.
1) Loosen wheel lugs. Don't take them all the way off, just loosen them.
2) Make sure your front wheels have blocks/chocks under them, and that the car is in gear because you need to have the emergency brake off to remove the drums. Jack up the car, insert jack stands. I jacked my car up at the side jack points, and inserted stands right behind the jack points on the metal "pinch"
3) Remove wheel
4) Make sure your e-brake is OFF! Remove brake drum. Some have had luck hitting the drums with a hammer. I used a four-pound rubber mallet with no luck.
If this is the case, there are two small holes next to the stud openings. These are thredded and are for backing the drums off the hubs.
•Use a 12mm bolt (I'm not sure of the pitch; it may be 1.25), slowly turning the bolt until the drum comes off. If this doesn't work, there's a small access hole in the back of the drum that's plugged by a one-inch rubber stopper.
•Using a screwdriver, you can lift a small lever, then turn a wheel with some teeth on it (go counter clockwise) until the brake shoes ease up and you should be able to get the drum off.
5) This is what you'll see with the drum off
Using a hammer, I pounded out the studs from the hub. I used a regular metal hammer; my rubber mallet didn't work so well. A hard plastic hammer would probably work well, too.
6) When all the studs are removed, now it's time to put in the new studs.
You can see the H&R studs are 20mm longer than the stock studs, which requires you to take the hub off of the car.
As you can see, there isn't enough space to put in the longer studs without removing the hub.
7) Unbolting the hub is a multi-stop process. The hub area is the darker-colored circular part of the assembly (thanks to whoever took this photo)
•To unbolt the hub, first unclip the ABS sensor.
•Next, using a 10mm socket, remove the bolt holding the ABS sensor cord. Also remove the bolt holding the e-brake cable.
•Then, using a 14mm socket, remove the bolt holding the bracket, which holds barke line.
•On the back of the hub are four bolts. These are the four bolts that mate the hub to the back of the drum and/or dustplate. Unscrew these with a 12mm socket. You may need an extension to get at them. Be careful not the hit the metal brake line, though.
•Do NOT remove the brake line itself from the back of the drum unless you intend on bleeding the brakes. Instead, making sure the e-brake and ABS cables are unbolted/unhooked, wiggle the entire drum/hub assembly off of the rear beam, again, being careful not to bend or damage the brake line.
•While holding the entire assembly with one hand (remember, the brake line is still attached), carefully tap the back of the hub (round part with ABS sensor) out from the dustplate assembly. You can use a metal hammer, just be careful not to hit the ABS sensor. The entire hub assembly should pop out.
At this point, I put, make sure the brake assembly is not just hanging by the brake line. I simply looped the ABS cord around its respective bolt to secure it while I put the new studs in.
8: Insert the new studs. Don't worry about securing them. Just put them in the holes.
9) Reassemble the brake/hub unit, double checking to make sure everything is secure and properly tightend down.
10) Now it's time to seat the new studs.
I went to Home Depot and bought several 1/2" washers.
•With the hub on the car again (and fully secured) put several washers onto a loose stud.
•Next, put a stock lugnut onto a stud. Hand-tighten until the stud his held in place.
•With a lug wrench, or a deep socket, tighten the studs until they're seated. I positioned a metal bar inbetween the studs to keep the hub from spinning while seating the lugs. The seating process will require a lot of torquing and wrenching. Make sure the stud is 100% seated, though. Air tools would be nice here.
11) Reinstall the drum cover. If you had to loosen the rear drums, make sure you readjust the brakes so they function properly. To get the drum on, you may need to lightly tap them with a rubber mallet.
12) I now put my 15mm spacer on. Success!
Remember to torque everything down correctly, and you should be good to go!
05-26-2006, 04:18 AM
#10
Senior Member
SL Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 1,368
Re: DIY: Longer rear wheel studs
"Sushiboy"
i think i took this pic...whered ya get it
i remember doing a OTG rear spacer install write up long long ago
this pic was from that install
i just remember because everyone made fun of me for having my springs upside down
09-04-2006, 04:20 AM
#15
Senior Member
SL Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Nor Cal Native in Okinawa
Posts: 1,263
OK one difference that saved me some time was that after I knocked out the old studs, I just loosened and removed the foor rear bolts and pulled the hub out enough to place the new studs in and then tightened the rear bolts again. Next I "drew" in the new studs with an origional lugnut, and some washers. That saved me the time of undoing the abs sensor, and those two brackets. Thanks again.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
kleecker
Scion xB 2nd-Gen Drivetrain & Power
9
08-02-2022 05:00 AM
Slopoke21m
Scion xA/xB 1st-Gen Suspension & Handling
54
04-23-2007 12:25 AM
