Kik

OK, I decided to use the permatex Ultra Grey. I reinstalled the timing cover and the oil pan today. I'll be working on the rest of it as I can, it's suppose to start raining again tomorrow. Hopefully I'll Have everything just about all put back together by Wednesday. I'm waiting on the new bolt and nut for the belt tensioner. I had to order that from Toyota today, they said the earliest it would be in would be Wednesday. Also for the cam chain tensioner, I asked how to release it. I figured it out. After using a welding rod with a hooked end and trying to move the hook on the tensioner for about 30 minutes, I found out all I had to do was push against the chain guide and it made the hook release....LOL. What a dummy...LOL

Kik

I know I'm jumping ahead of the game here a bit, but I thought I'd get opinions.
Having the car on the jack stands I noticed the left front strut was leaking and the right front spring was broken at the bottom. I believe these are Tien springs. Just from the color green, but I'm not sure. The suspension is very tight and you feel every bump in the road. The car sits on 18" wheels and I can just get "Barely" 1 finger between the fender and the tire. I'm sure being that the car was bought used, the previous owner raced it around quite a bit and then my son bought it and beat it more. Now that I'm stuck with it, I want to get it fixed but, I don't want to feel every bump in the road. I like the lowered look of the car but I don't race it around either. Any suggestions on what brand springs and struts I should be looking at and what size they should be? I'm sure I'll need to do this on all 4 corners. Thanks

bcp06tc

Well, if you are concerned about the ride quality then you should get rid of the 18s and go to 17s.(I had 17s on mine and they looked good). Also, i had TRD springs which were a nice drop but not crazy low or crazy stiff. As far as struts are concerned since you are not really looking for performance maybe a stock replacement or stagg. I installed stagg struts on my tC(you can see in my signature) paired with TRD springs and loved them. A bit stiffer than stock but not too bad. Also, i live in PA and the roads here are terrible and i never had a problem out of these struts. (they are very cheap as well.)

Kik

bcp06tc, Thanks, Your car looks like mine,...same color, wheels look the same except for being 18" and the center caps say Axis. I see with the 17's that you have plenty of room between tires and fender. I'll look into Stagg struts and TRD springs, as a matter of fact there's a guy on CL that has a set of TRD springs for $130 and they supposedly only have 5000 miles on them.

Kik

well it's all back together. I went over everything twice to make sure all the bolts were nice and tight. I hit the key and it fired up on the first lick. I was really surprised since it hadn't been started since November. It is throwing a P0016 cam code. I've cleared it a few times but it's coming back. It doesn't come on during start up but after a few minutes of running it will come on. I unplugged the sensor and measured the the voltage in the harness. It measures 1.47V on one wire and zero on the other. I'll have to probe the wires with it hooked up to the sensor to see what it's reading. I know the cams and crank are dead nuts on so that's not the problem, unless the chain somehow jumped when I cranked it over. I hate the thought of tearing into it again.

bcp06tc

What exactly is the code?

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Kik

P0016 Scion - Crankshaft Position Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor 'A'

P0016 - Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A)

Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0016
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com
P0016 - Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A)

Read more at: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0016
Copyright © OBD-Codes.com

egobuster1

with out taking the motor back apart and checking the timing the real only option here is to replace the sensor and see if that takes care of it. if your sure that the timing is correct then grab a new sensor and put it in if it fixes it then bam your golden if it doesn't wipe it off and take it back

Kik

So what you're saying is that there is absolutely NO way to advance or retard the timing in this engine without tearing it apart? What if the VVT is stuck closed because of old oil residue? Couldn't in just drop some acetone or toluene into the hole on the VVT and blow it through with some air? I mean definitely the new sensor is the easiest way to go. But to tear that whole thing down again will be a major PIA.

egobuster1

Alright I was wrong. I work for a Toyota dealership so I had a tech look up in TIS what the recommended repair was for that p0016 code and Toyota has in the database that it can only be 2 things. Ether the motor is out of time or the ECM is bad. So I think ya need to pull the timing cover and you'll find that the motor isn't in time. It's probably off by like 1 tooth


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Kik

Well, it must have jumped the chain somehow if it's outta time or maybe it didn't like the fact I put in new chain guides. I pulled the cam sensor and it has some groove marks on the end of it where I tried to put the head bolt in and didn't realize the sensor was in the way. I cleaned it real well and put it back in. I cleared the code started the car and ran it at 2000 rpm for 1 minute. then I let it idle at 750 rpm for 1 minute, then at 2500 rpm for 1 minute, then I put it in gear and let it idle for 1 minute. The MIL didn't come back on. I got in to go to work this morning fired it up, all was good, then I put it in gear, hit the gas to back out of the driveway and as soon as I started rolling the light came on.

egobuster1

Hmm that's a interesting one. You could try a new sensor just to make sure it's not something that simple


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Kik

I guess I'm a little screwed up here. I started doing some searches and come to find out what I thought was the cam sensor is actually the OCV. So the end of the OCV is grooved from the head bolt. Now I have to find the location of the cam sensor this code is talking about.

egobuster1

Why don't you just pull the valve cover and make sure it's in time.


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Kik

That's what I'm going to do today after work, if it ever quits raining. I figured it out also, I don't have to remove the timing cover again to reset the timing. All I have to do is Pull the chain tensioner, the guide will slip back enough that I can lift the chain and move the cams into the proper position. I'll just have to make sure that the crank is set properly, But like I said I double checked everything before I put it back together. I'm going to recheck the crank and cam sensor voltages before I pull the cover though. I'll keep the info coming if I can.

Kik

I pulled the valve cover, brought the motor around to TDC on #1 cyl. which = 0 on the timing cover. looking at the cams dead on, the exhaust was dead on, the intake looked to be straight on also, but I pulled it apart and realigned it all back up. I finished about 10pm last night. I waited until today to start the car. bigger than crap. it lit up the 0016p code again. So i'm at 3 options here. #1 bad crank sensor, #2 stretched timing chain, #3 bad ecu. I have checked all connections and they're good. I haven't been able to find what the voltage is suppose to be on the crank sensor so I really can't say if it's good or bad.Any ideas sure would be appreciated.

Kik

I think I figured this thing out. I just need someone to confirm this for me. There are 2 marks on the exhaust cam gear. one is a dot or circle. The other is shaped similar to this: / \, I've been lining up the cam to the second mark when I THINK I should have been on the dot. Please let me know because I'm going to tear into it again this Friday. Thanks.

Kik

[QUOTE=Kik;4150812]I think I figured this thing out. I just need someone to confirm this for me. There are 2 marks on the exhaust cam gear. one is a dot or circle. The other is shaped similar to this: / \, I've been lining up the cam to the second mark when I THINK I should
have been on the dot. Please let me know because
I'm going to tear into it
again this Friday. Thanks.[/ QUOTE]

Ok I got it. After pulling it apart again I found that the exhaust cam was one tooth off. I reset the cam and all is fine now. No more mil light. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.