i have to disagree with you. 1.) you never had a proplem, but yet you state a problem with your header. 2.) it may be possible that the sensor could have had a high amount of heat from the contact of both parts. 3.) weapon r claims all parts are tested and checked for specs.

 

Wow...that really sucks. Im amazed that assuming it was installed correctly how it could come into contact to so much of a degree to cause that amount of damage.

GL in seeing if they will work with you on this issue. Even if it's a small chance they will do something for you, a small chance is better than none at all.

 

So you installed the header and s-pipe and noticed the s-pipe was touching .. or basically resting a moving part and decided to drive like that?

To put that kind of a hole in stainless is not easy.

The only way your poppin a fuse in that situation is if your o2 sensor wiring is grounding out

I agree with one thing weapon r said - lets see the condition of your motor/trans mounts

Your axle doesnt move up and down when you turn

 

well if the turn is at a angle or the daily bumps with the struts going up and down as they should. no excuse for such fit. how many failled mounts do read about on here?

 

Well first off, had you actually read everything, you would already know the answer to this question. If you want the answer, go back and read. I've posted the answer to that question more than once already.

You're right. Except the Weapon*R header isn't made of stainless. At least it certainly doesn't seem to be. I'll explain.

I remembered seeing the header was supposedly made of stainless while I was price checking different sites before I actually purchased it, but seeing that hole made me think twice. I went back online and found that only some sites claim it to be stainless. The site I purchased it from does not, however they do make sure to indicate other headers that are.

http://www.erzperformance.com/product_p/953-116-104.htm

If you'll go to that link, and look to the right, you'll see a list of related products. The DC sport ceramic coated header isn't stainless, nor does the site claim it to be. However the Strup header is, and so is indicated in the title and description.

In addition, while I know the specific metals used to make the stainless steel are a factor in magnetic properties, a handful of my friends with an aftermarket header confirmed their headers were magnetic, however mine is not. I guess that's not absolute confirmation, but the aforementioned factors seem to be pretty big indications that it's not stainless. I sure Mr. Wanstrath can answer that for us to clear up any confusion, though.

That's very possible. I do believe there was a connection between the fuse blowing and the hole (because it didn't blow until there was actually a hole made, a few weeks after install), but it could have been due to wiring issues.

As I said before, there is absolutely *nothing* wrong with my motor mounts. I had a car (a Chrysler 300, to be exact) that the motor mounts broke in, and while a lot of you men like to think we females are inept when it comes to cars, I know exactly what it feels like when that happens. There would be a shift in the motor, and considering I have a manual (and typically have to recondition myself to the clutch based on how high the heels are I'm wearing that day! lol), I'd notice it. No doubt.

Likewise, I have obviously had no issue proving everything else I've posted on here, so if it's that big of a deal, I'll *gladly* post pics.

In addition, I am fully aware the axle doesn't move up and down, but instead is more of a backward/forward movement when the wheels are turned. Had you read the original posts, you would see that it only happened when turning the wheels to the left, and that is when the contact was made. I have the permanent marks on my drive axle now from the pipe's friction, so there's no question that was what it was grinding against.

Please read the posts in their entirety before replying, because I'm beginning to sound like a broken record having to repeat everything.

 

Seems you have an excuse for everything.

What I am saying has nothing to do with you being female .. no need to try that card.

Your say mechanically inclined.. yet you didnt notice this massive hole forming in your s-pipe. You would have heard the hole at pinhole status .. I cant imagine what your car sounded like with that huge hole.

Also your original theory on the fuse situation was incorrect

The s-pipe is advertised as stainless. Put a magnet to it and tell us if it sticks.

 

Im not trying to argue that there wasnt a problem with the S-Pipe.

But you have to realize you heard an odd noise immediately after installing a new part and did nothing about it. If you would have pulled the s-pipe off after day 1 you would have seen a wear mark on it.

Just so you know you can turn the wheel while your car is in the air

 

I'm not pulling any cards. I'm simply stating fact. Whether it specifically applies to you or not? I don't know, but I'm nipping that notion in the bud for anyone who's had the thought.

As for excuses, I haven't made any "excuses". Again, I have proven every single claim I've made on here with emails, screenshots, and dates.

No need to repeat yourself concerning the fuse. I saw it the first time, and have already responded. As I said before, I do know the fuse didn't blow until the very end, when the hole would have finally formed (obviously the metal is thick and it would have made the metal thinner and thinner rather than just making a hole from the start.)

Again, *READ* what I posted before you answered and you'll see the answer to your last question.

 

Oh my God, READ. I plainly stated the sound didn't start IMMEDIATELY after installation, that it was gradual, and only happened on occasion. The connection I didn't make at the time, was that it only happened when the wheel was hard turned to the left. (To dumb it down for you, if I didn't take a sharp enough turn to the left, it didn't make the sound!)

I will probably not reply to any other responses you post since it seems you have obviously read only bits and pieces of the information, and are trying to make assumptions based on partial knowledge about the situation.

 

Also i want to clarify a couple things....First they are stainless headers ALWAYZ were!.....second if i am not too mistaken, im looking in my TC repair manual and the axle part that was rubbing is a solid axle shaft only no flex joints on it! so for turning the wheel to cause the s pipe to rub will be A FACT INCORRECT! So we are going to take care of this as a COURTESY ! Becuase like some have said WE WEAPON_R should have been notified immediately...NOT THE dealer! Also when i stated i was disappointed at the dealer that is because amber did contact ERZ in Aug in regards to this and we were not contacted by ERZ...If we were , then this would have never happened!


Also Amber it really hurts us to see this post started and the title! If you read your copied emails again NOT ONE TIME DID WE REFUSE anything! I was simply getting the facts from you! IT REALLY HURTS to see this! People always have to rely on sitting in front of the computer to post FALSE info just to clarify something!

Ample time? We have been emailing for 3 business days amber!

now we are going to exchange her S pipe once sent back to us here at Weapon-R!

 

My weapon-R header/ s-pipe was perfect. along with the other 2 I put in people's cars. No fitment issue whatsoever

I read the whole thread, so dont tell me to read, but I still blame install error. Weapon-R was nice enough to replace it. Good Job. Hope it dosnt happen again. Good luck.

 

this sucks considering i'm about to purchase this; first i've heard of any issues though hopefully this was a one time issue cuz was looking forward to getting this

 

Wow, a lot of blame to go around in this thread. ERZ for sitting on a complaint, Amber for not contacting the mfgr. direct sooner, Weapon-R seems to be handling it now that they were notified.

I'm not sure how this part can be installed incorrectly, the tube that slip's over the junction with the header means it would only go in one way, and the flange bolt holes would need to line up for it to be mounted. Can anyone provide an explanation as to how that hole could have formed other than how Amber described?

trd07, It's really not standard procedure to turn the wheel with the front end on jacks. For one, the wheel locks without the key in the ON position. Also, why would you even need to do that? The two times I've had to were to clear the hub when installing a drive axle and getting clearance to replace a bushing. The drive axle does change clearance as the wheel is rotated, and with an offset drive axle it has to allow for some change in clearance. I've had the pleasure of replacing my friend's tC drive axle, and it does indeed have a flex coupling on both the axle and transmission end, under the boot. Otherwise it would snap like a twig on the first pothole when the wheel changed height in relation to the transmission.



I've had multiple Weapon-R products (header, intake, catch tank, strut bar), and was satisfied with almost all of them. The exception was a front strut tower bar, where it was about 1/2" too short between the collars. I ended up taking a dremel to it and shaving off 1/4" per side on the inner ring to get it to fit rather than messing with sending it back. No QA process is perfect, it is possible Amber got a part that was made out of tolerance (which I'm assuming is her rationale as well since she wants another from Weapon-R).

Amber, I'd suggest you edit your title since Weapon-R does seem to be supporting the swap, seems like ERZ let you down more than anything. Chris was a little short with you in the corrospondance, but keep in mind they have to deal with people doing incredibly stupid things to their products and then trying to get them warrantied (run over something and dent the header, lower the car and have something still under the car crush the pipe, bad install for a wideband O2 bung, etc.), I wouldn't take it too personally.

 

Wow, very nicely stated. Couldn't have said it better myself.

I know what I know, and I know that when I turned my wheels to the left enough, I heard metal grinding. So I, too, would like another explanation as to how it could have happened other than what I said. It was not sitting on the axle when the wheels were straight - plain and simple. I'd safely assume that had it been, it would have formed the hole quite a bit sooner since it would have been in *continuous* contact every time I drove.

And you're right. I do believe it is just an error, otherwise I wouldn't be willing to put another one on my car. When it was first discovered, I absolutely had reservations about putting it on my car again, but after a bit of searching, I couldn't find where anyone else had my particular problem, which brings me to my next point:

To the people who are "still blaming incorrect install", read what vettereddie said above concerning that issue - he explained it far better than I did. Also, to those of you who believe that, do you also believe I'd be the first and only person to have ever that header/s-pipe installed incorrectly? Because that would have to be the case, considering no one else has had this problem.

I will gladly send the pipe back in. I said that from the very first email. Hell Chris, had you even offered to just *look* at it to see if if poor manufacturing really was the problem in this instance, I would have been far more satisfied than the initial responses I received. If I honestly didn't believe the part was just a bad piece, I wouldn't go to all the trouble.

And for the record, I started this thread after the second day (and second message from me) with no response from you.

I'm assuming I'll send it to the address included in your previous emails? ATTN: Chris Wanstrath? I'm going to get a bunch of really good pictures and a video today (for my own records), then it'll be on its way. ;)

 

And on the record for anyone on here who say they had a perfect part, the likelihood of one part being incorrect is far greater than the likelihood of many parts being incorrect. After a while, quality control decreases once a manufacturer has noticed a decrease in problem occurrences. Seeing how weapon r has had so many successful sales, they are probably less restrictive when checking parts. It's actually quite common among large scale businesses. So there is actually a large chance that the part is defective given the odds of previous other business accounts.

 

they make them out of molds.. i dont see how there can be just 1 bad one

 

I can honestly say after sitting here for 20 minutes reading this entire thread, I thought that the emails from chris were a bit rude for responding to a customer. As i read those emails with all those explanation marks i felt like all he was doing was yelling at her.
This is the type of thing after reading I dnt think I will ever buy a Weapon R product. I thought she handled it well by going to where she first bought it, and she followed their directions months later to contact Weapon R. I would have done the same thing.
Glad there going to take care of this finally for you, and you will be able to get it back on.
My only suggestion though is when it is installed again, before you go taking off turn the wheels all the way to the right and left just to double chack LOL.
Good luck

 

Huh? What are you talking about exactly? The Weapon-R header is made from mandrel bent steel welded together. Your signature says you do custom tubing work, you have to know this. What is your position at boost works? This is not injection molded or cast, I'm not even sure that's possible with stainless steel. Are you saying that Weapon-R did a negative mold JUST to check for fitment? While functional, I doubt they'd go to that extreme. For one, storage for that on their entire product line would be prohibitive, jig boards can be stored flat.



I'm not a manufacturing process designer from Weapon-R, so I don't know how much of the assembly and weld process is automated, but I'm sure there is some human involvement, and that gives room for error, either by not putting a section att he right angle to weld, getting a section that wasn't bent properly, etc. If the variance isn't big, it might even still fit the jig board.

 

You are 100% incorrect...It is stainless!

 

I am extremely sorry my grammar wasn't 100%...But yelling is when you type caps lock down. Also i am sorry you feel that way about not buying our product because of some grammar marks. There was nothing rude about what i said!