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Old Jul 15, 2006 | 10:56 AM
  #101  
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now that was interesting - anybody want to follow up on that?
Old Jul 16, 2006 | 04:00 AM
  #102  
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Originally Posted by ghostrider25
I know there are alot of people debating 5w-30 or 10w-30 on startup 10w-30 will be slower to reach the head of the engine but in hindsight it will also leak down from the head slower and bind to engine internals longer before draining into the oil pan. From what I understand our engines are pretty high compression and on startup need oil to the head fast so the lighter factory weight will reach the head faster. It will also circulate through the engine faster because it is lighter causing less stress on the oil pump. I'm not saying that the pump cannot handle 10w-30 by any means though. I would like to add in colder areas like colorado or new york new jersey vermont and so on in the winter 10w-30 will be alot thicker and you could possibly damage engine components. You should also see a loss in fuel economy by switching to the heavier oil of course most people in the forums have done enough mods to their cars that fuel economy isn't exactly a priority. I would say stay with what the factory recomends just switch to a synthetic. The engine desighners at toyota seem to be very intelligent and I'm sure they chose the oil weight for a good reason. the only time I could see swithcing to 10w-30 would be in a scion with over 100 thousand miles on it. In this situation there would be engine wear and wear on the cylinder walls and in the head that may actually benifit from a little bit heavier oil but even that may be dissproven I might also consider a heavier oil in a turbo or supercharger application during warm months. I would do research on high compression engines and heavier weight oil to make my final decision. Ultimatly it's your car and your choice let us know how it goes.
If you look at the specs, 5W-30 is thicker than 10W-30 at operating temps on almost all brands.
Old Jul 16, 2006 | 04:52 AM
  #103  
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Technically, They should be the same after they are warmed to operating temp. The first number is cold and the second is warm weights.
Old Jul 16, 2006 | 01:17 PM
  #104  
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but he was saying that on startup ....how the thicker weight would be bad when cold.
Old Jul 17, 2006 | 04:06 AM
  #105  
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Yes correct I take issue with 10w-30 on cold startup and use in the winter and cold climates. in the 1NZ-FE scion engines.
Old Jul 22, 2006 | 12:52 AM
  #106  
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whenever i switch to synthetic (which will be as soon as I get to the 'yota dealer and pick up a filter) I'm going to do an oil analysis every so often to see if the oil is performing as it should (AMSOIL 5w-30 25k drain interval). If it does not meet specifications I'll let y'all know.
Old Jul 22, 2006 | 12:55 AM
  #107  
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The New York Times did an article on motor oil and basically said that all of these companies making these guarantees are slowly but surely changing their m.o. about what the oil can do. The author said that its safe to say that the motor oil is safe to use for about half of the advertised length......just thought you all might be interested to know!
Old Jul 22, 2006 | 04:44 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by CrimiNole03
whenever i switch to synthetic... I'm going to do an oil analysis every so often to see if the oil is performing as it should (AMSOIL 5w-30 25k drain interval) ...
I was an Amsoil dealer for several years. Used it in my cars and bikes and sold it at bike rallies:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/roundel/21925669/

I would not do what you propose. The 25K interval will require a couple of messy filter changes using the special expensive Amsoil regular full-flow filters. The oil will still become very black, as filtering does not remove the finest particles that cause color.

If I remember correctly, the 25K drain interval may actually be for vehicles with a second Amsoil bypass oil filter, that filters the oil a drop at a time. There is no room for that item under the xB hood. Also, doing the oil analysis of the dregs in the regular filter is not cheap. That whole protocol of the two filters and analysis is good for crude commercial vehicles with large oil sumps where you have a dozen quarts invested, but I don't think it is appropriate for the xB with it's motorcycle-like jewel of an engine.
Old Jul 28, 2006 | 06:05 AM
  #109  
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here is a silly question how long can you run synthetic say mobil on a factory oil filter safely will it go five thousand miles without a problem driving hard. since I assume the factory oil filter is about the best I can buy and everyone says synthetic is better and has gains in all areas how do I tackle the factory oil filter situation peoples experience would be of great help to alot of us. I think we all can debate oil filters and oil brands all day long. I'd like to see some combo results this oil this many miles this type of filter results noticed. I think that might help me and other people make better decisions because I have never heard of amsoil or ever seen it. recently my small town got royal purple but I have always run mobil synthetic but if there is a better brand I can buy at a local parts store and there is proof that it is better than mobil I'll switch.
Old Jul 28, 2006 | 01:38 PM
  #110  
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Originally Posted by vintage42
Originally Posted by CrimiNole03
whenever i switch to synthetic... I'm going to do an oil analysis every so often to see if the oil is performing as it should (AMSOIL 5w-30 25k drain interval) ...
I was an Amsoil dealer for several years. Used it in my cars and bikes and sold it at bike rallies:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/roundel/21925669/

I would not do what you propose. The 25K interval will require a couple of messy filter changes using the special expensive Amsoil regular full-flow filters. The oil will still become very black, as filtering does not remove the finest particles that cause color.

If I remember correctly, the 25K drain interval may actually be for vehicles with a second Amsoil bypass oil filter, that filters the oil a drop at a time. There is no room for that item under the xB hood. Also, doing the oil analysis of the dregs in the regular filter is not cheap. That whole protocol of the two filters and analysis is good for crude commercial vehicles with large oil sumps where you have a dozen quarts invested, but I don't think it is appropriate for the xB with it's motorcycle-like jewel of an engine.
Thank you for some good experienced input. The filtering issue you mention above is what I (and the good shops I know) try to get through to people. There are particles and byproducts that you cannot get out of the oil through normal filtering. And again, my purpose is to change the oil when it is in better shape than conventional oil would be.. so I dont use extended drain intervals.

Here is another good point... lets say you have a tiny leak in your head gasket somewhere subtle (and yes, I have seen cars driven 20k or more with a seeping head gasket). When antifreeze and water mix with oil.. it makes a nasty little acidic soup, that begins damaging your bottom end components. Or, lets say you are not oiling well.. then there are metal shavings. I use my oil changes as one way to "inspect" the inside of my engine. I would hardly go 25k without knowing what is going inside my internals.
Old Jul 29, 2006 | 01:05 AM
  #111  
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actually just for laugh's and to test I did the 25,000 mile oil change in my last car I started it at about 115,000 mile and stopped at 168,000 when I sold it..no problems I usedall Champion Labs made filters I even sent one sample to Blacktone Labs to check the oil at one point... the oil was fine during the whole test......I went against every rule here LOL as I started synthetics late in the cars life....
PS the car now has well over 200,000 and going strong it is a 1994 Eagle Vision TSI
Old Jul 29, 2006 | 04:44 AM
  #112  
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i just changed my oil. i'm at 16k, i've used up the 3 free oil changes and i like to do my own service.
i used mobil1 5w30 full synthetic, tc takes 4 quarts according to the book, which is very convenient
i bought a 10 pack of genuine tc oil filters from trdsparks, i figure thats all i will ever need for the life of the car (will probably trade it in 4 years from now)

i don't know if this is just in my head, but my shifts seem smoother, especially my 1st to second, after changing the oil....but i think it's in my head because i thought i'd have to change the tranny fluid to mt90 to get smoother shifts...anyone experience anything like this?
Old Jul 29, 2006 | 03:10 PM
  #113  
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maybe the car is running a lil cleaner now.
Old Jul 29, 2006 | 09:21 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by ghostrider25
here is a silly question how long can you run synthetic say mobil on a factory oil filter safely will it go five thousand miles without a problem driving hard.
You can use any filter OTHER than the basic Fram Filter. You will have zero problems changing the filter and Mobil 1 at 5K intervals. This is what I'm doing and plan on getting 300K plus carefree miles.
Old Aug 14, 2006 | 12:00 PM
  #115  
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I'd like to throw my 2 cents into the pot here...

I was given a 94 Buick Regal 3.8L V6 back in 2003 with 112k miles. It had ran dino oil all it's life. I switched to Mobil 1 Extended w/ Mobil 1 filter and changed every 10k miles. The engine is now at 183k miles and getting about 24MPG, as opposed to 19-20MPG when I started drivning it.

I have a 06 Scion xA on the way that I plan on switching to synthetic at 1k and changing every 7.5k. Why? Synthetic oil has an extended wear period. That is a fact. It has other benefits but in my eyes, that's the main reason to use it. The arguement about particles in the oil is a vaild one, but it's been misguided to the oil. If you are worried about particles in the oil, change the filter every 5k miles. Anything small enough to pass though the filter won't do much besides make the oil a little darker. That's a cheap, fool proof solution to allow you to use synthetic oil for it's intended purpose.
Old Aug 15, 2006 | 04:31 AM
  #116  
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Originally Posted by gade202
I'd like to throw my 2 cents into the pot here...

I was given a 94 Buick Regal 3.8L V6 back in 2003 with 112k miles. It had ran dino oil all it's life. I switched to Mobil 1 Extended w/ Mobil 1 filter and changed every 10k miles. The engine is now at 183k miles and getting about 24MPG, as opposed to 19-20MPG when I started drivning it.

I have a 06 Scion xA on the way that I plan on switching to synthetic at 1k and changing every 7.5k. Why? Synthetic oil has an extended wear period. That is a fact. It has other benefits but in my eyes, that's the main reason to use it. The arguement about particles in the oil is a vaild one, but it's been misguided to the oil. If you are worried about particles in the oil, change the filter every 5k miles. Anything small enough to pass though the filter won't do much besides make the oil a little darker. That's a cheap, fool proof solution to allow you to use synthetic oil for it's intended purpose.
Except particles aren't what cause the majority of engine wear, it's acid buildup from combustion, something that the filter doesn't remove.
Old Aug 17, 2006 | 12:47 AM
  #117  
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so mobil 1 oil and filter can all be found at walmart and other local auto stores??
Old Aug 17, 2006 | 01:06 AM
  #118  
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yep..
Old Aug 17, 2006 | 05:09 AM
  #119  
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i didn't realize how expensive mobil 1 is. it's like $6 for 1 qt. but at walmart, it's $5 something for a qt. but for 5 qts, it's only $22. so i guess i'll just buy 5 quarts, use up 4 then save the remaining. however i couldn't find any mobil oil filter. can i just use the toyota one?
Old Aug 17, 2006 | 07:29 AM
  #120  
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toyota oil filter is fine. i personally use that combination (mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic with OEM toyota oil filter) as well as many other people on this board.



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