i am a total newb when it comes to detailing - the only thing i've polished were ski goggles lol so can someone help me out on a few terms:

claybar - i know its applied first, what exactly is it? does it have to be applied every time you polish or only after a long time of driving around

wax - yeah i get this one

buffer glove-cloth - i understand this term also

polish - i've seen it in a few posts, is it necessary or is it just another term for waxing?

 

A claybar is simply that...a bar of clay. You make sure the car is nice and lubricated (I use spray wax quick detailer) and you just wipe the bar over the paint and it picks up all of the stuff that didn't come off from washing. It makes the paint feel glassy smooth.

Polish is a very light abrasive for taking out light scratches and swirl marks. It "sands" down the clear coat to remove the scratches and leaves the car looking like new.

When I detail the exterior, here is what I do:
1) Wash with buckets and sheepskin mit
2) Rinse off with a hose so water can sheet off
3) Dry completely with microfiber
4) Claybar
5) Polish
6) Wax
7) Admire the shine

Actually, it is a lot more complicated than just that, but that is the quick and easy version. Good luck and have fun.

 

how long would a full wax take?

 

THansenite has it right. Usually the whole process takes a good while! Allow yourself at least half a day. Also if you use a buffer it will make things a whole lot easier. Because of how much work it is I usually only do the whole process two times a year.

 

There's lots of great threads and stickies in the maintenance and car care area...check it out.
More than enough info for any nOOb or veteran...

Scott

 

autopia.org

 

http://autopia.org/forum/index.php?

X2!! The BEST detailing site I have found.

 

x3.... that place rules.... will give you all the ins and outs

 

First... You don't need to use a clay bar on a car that is only a couple of years old, unless you live near a VOLCANO! lol. Clay bars remove impurities in the paint that are put there from acid rain, salt, other minerals in the air and rain, dirt that is allowed to stay on the car, etc... On a car that is 1-2 years old, there is no need for clay bar.
Second- You will hardly need to use a cleaner wax on a car that is less than 2 years old, a good carnuba wax will do wonders, as long as you wax properly (temperature, lack of sunlight, proper applicators and removal cloths)

NOOBs shouldn't use a polish, you can totally ruin your finish.

There is a difference between an orbital buffer and polisher. What you want to use is one of the craftsman orbital buffer, the $30 10" ones that come with the wool bonnet... you know what I'm talking about. BUT... you NEVER want to applicate the wax with this, only remove.

Quick How-To:
Wash car with either car wash or dawn (very little bit) with nice sponge or wash mit.
Dry with either microfiber or GOOD terrycloth (I've ALWAYS used terrycloth and have never gotten scratches)
Pull car into garage or carport... or wait until evening.
Apply wax in small circular motions, being sure not to use too much wax (I prefer terrycloth applicators with cleaner wax, sponge or microfiber applicators with liquid carnuba wax)
Cover entire vehicle in light layer of wax, then go back with buffer to remove using terrycloth or microfiber bonnet
Use terrycloth or microfiber cloth to remove the rest of the wax the buffer could not reach.
Finally, use microfiber or terrycloth to remove dust from vehicle.
You're done!

My favorite liquid wax is Meguiar's Gold Class liquid carnuba wax.

ALSO... Clean your windows BEFORE waxing, cause the window cleaner will mess up your fresh wax job.

 

Actually, the consensus is that circular motion for waxing causes "spider-webbing"
I've been using a straight, back and forth method now for a few years and it's good.
I'm sure this point can/has/will be argued for eternity.
You're right though, don't use any polish or clay unless you need it.
And surely stick with Carnuba with no abrasives.

Scott

 

I disagree... Best way to tell wether or not you need to claybar (IMO) is after you've given your car a good quality hand wash and blot dry, lightly run the back of your hand across the finish.... if it feels like glass, you don't need to use clay.... if it feels "rough", clay it up....

Areas to look at esp. when claying are the lower 1/4 of the car...it gets nasty down there....

In no way am I saying you should drive a car off the lot and take it home for a detail with clay.... I got my car in december 04, went through 2 months of snow and ice/ salty roads.... then gave it a good detail in the spring with clay.... then used regular washes through the summer, and gave it another detail without the clay.... here in a month or so, I'm going to give it a full detail with clay again....

It's all in your own theory... once a year is plenty for me since it's so tedious and time consuming....

 

I'm just very careful when using abrasives on newer paint.

As for the "spiderwebs" when you use a circular motion... that's usually when you are using a cleaner wax which has some abrasives in it. True good carnuba wax is just wax, and shouldn't leave spiderwebs or streaks (or at least they shouldn't be very apparent). Unfortunately, dark colors SUCK when it comes to detailing. lol.

 

another cause of spiderwebs or swirl marks is from the paint not being free of contaminants before drying/polishing/waxing....clay bar will lift those contaminants to keep them from lightly running across your paint...

 

The clay isn't exactly an abrasive.... I call sandpaper an abrasive because it's used to file down the finish.... the claybar is used to lift particles out of the paint.... Polish would be more of an abrasive cause it's designed to smooth out/level your clearcoat to reduce swirls/scratches

 

Don't mean to bash, but there are several things I don't agree with in this post.

1) I clay about every other time I wax my car. It really makes a difference. You can actually feel the stuff on your car if you run the back of your fingers across your paint. After using the clay bar, it is smooth as glass. I believe clay gives you a slightly better surface to wax on meaning you do slightly better at shows.

2) I only use soap designated for washing cars. Dawn is good for washing dishes. I use car soap because it has been designed specifically for washing vehicles.

3) As some of the other posts said, I wax using back and forth motions, not circular. I also wax one panel at a time. Then, I move on to the next panel as I let the first set up. After I am done applying wax to the second panel, I buff the first panel I did with microfiber. Then I hop over the panel I just waxed and apply wax to the third. Then go back and buff the second. Kind of confusing, but I find it gives it just the right amount of time to haze over.

4) Finally, I don't use an orbital buffer. For one, it can ruin your car's finish much easier with a buffer than you can with polish. Orbital buffers definately aren't for n00bs as you put it Plus, I enjoy feeling the curves of my car

To the person asking how long it takes to detail a car...when preparing for a show, it takes me around 8 hours or so to do a full detail. When I am doing my biweekly cleaning and waxing, it takes about 2 hours or so. I love my car.

 

well, i don't know what to say without sounding like an ___...

I never said NOT to use a clay bar, I just don't find it necessary. I've won shows with past vehicles based on the cleanliness and detail of my vehicles. I too spend 8-10 hours detailing my car every few weeks, and a good 10-12 before a show, and even a couple hours during shows to keep the dust and fingerprints off. I've worked at 2 dealerships detailing used cars to sell, and prepping new cars when sold... You don't have to agree with me... so, yeah. whatever.

 

Clay bars are overused, IMHO.
Unless you're in a really grimy place, or in a place where you have the winter crap, I think having to use it more than once or twice a year is odd.

my 2¢

 

^^ agreed.... once/twice a year....

 

When it comes right down to it, which way you wax is all a personal preference: whatever works best for you. My preference, however, is to use an all circular motion.

I like a circular application because that tends to allow a more uniform and even coverage of wax. The overlapping motion just naturally spreads the material more evenly and overlaps in a more uniform layer than a straight line motion (e.g. straight line motions also have definite start-stop points of heavier build up). Most all paints have swirl marks in a circular pattern anyway, so in my experience the best way to polish/wax those is to follow the same pattern rather than going "against the grain" with a straight line motion. Think of it as sanding a block of wood: You always sand in the same direction in finer and finer grits until the sanding marks are gone. Sanding across the marks only magnifies the cut marks.

Auto paint surfaces work much the same way. I feel that polishing (or waxing) in the direction of the marks is the best way to reduce or eliminate them. The reason you see the swirl marks in the first place is that light is reflecting off the lateral surface of the cut edges. Essentially it's a mirror. Cutting across those marks only cuts new, cut edges to reflect more light at the point where the two lines intersect. It's like a facet in a diamond, it reflects light. Even though you're using wax only, there is still an abrasion taking place.

So what causes swirl marks? Improper use of a rotary buffer with the wrong type of buffing pad will do it. Automatic car washes will also cause swirls, especially on clear coat auto paints. Even with hand washing scratches occur by using dirty or dusty rags or applicator pads.

So don't let your towels fall on the ground or collect dirt and dust in the garage. Always use a microfiber polishing cloth or a 100% cotton, terry cloth towel for removing detailing products, polishes and waxes. These towels have a "nap" (the little cotton loops), that draws and traps abrasive particles and contaminants into the towel. Which is better than allowing them to scratch your ride's paint.

 

I agree with this highly!! but don't do it just for buffing or applicating wax/polish products....use something with a knap for washing as well since sponges or flat cloths can cause MAJOR swirl marks/scratches.... I personally find a chenille wash mitt to work VERY well at trapping dirt far in the knap and keeping it off the paint.... also, rinse the mitt/cloth each time before you put it back into your soapy solution