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Old Apr 24, 2008 | 08:16 PM
  #21  
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Your first two steps before spending any money on wax??
a) get a NICE wash mitt
b) most important, get this thing called a grit guard www.gritguard.com im telling you, this will save your paint. you would not believe how much grit and grime is in the bottom of your bucket by the time your done.. and the way you do it now washes that crap right into your paint each time.

I have one of these and I definatlely recommended it. Then go get a nice wax and an orbit polisher.
Old Apr 24, 2008 | 08:35 PM
  #22  
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i dont use a grit gaurd, but i ALWAYS use the two bucket system. I use my hand as a free grit gaurd.
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 12:18 AM
  #23  
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Thanks for all the recommendations guys, gives me some good starting points, any further suggestions are of course welcome.

I have to reiterate that I want long lasting and easy to apply over deep show car shine... so the one step long lasting options (never heard of DG but will have to look into it) are appealing to me.

As for wash mits, what about those brushes you can attach to your hose? I would think they are good as the water running through them constantly keeps them from collecting dirt and scratching your car....

Seems in general microfiber everything is the way to go? Cotton is not the fabric of choice anymore?
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 01:37 AM
  #24  
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i used to be a meguiars fan, until i used Poorboys polishes and waxes. PoorBoys FTW
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 03:02 AM
  #25  
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yes, microfiber is the way to go. And i dont know about the hose attachment, never tried it.
And you can find DG products at a carquest if there is one near you, or i think most pep boys carry it. their wash soap is great- super lubricated and smells like cherries. And i use their 105 wax topped with aquawax when i want a really good shine, and then just use aquawax in between.
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 04:05 AM
  #26  
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check out autopia.org

They have a lot of info and reviews on the various car care products. Zaino's is available only online (I think) but a lot of people like it for their high end cars.

Basically;

wash with car wash shampoo - NOT Dishwashing liquid
Use microfibers cloths / wash mitts, etc. DO NOT use a cloth if you drop it on the ground - I like the big yellow ones you can get at Costco - like a bag of 30 for $10.

Clay your paint - gets rid of surface contaminant nicely - the little bumps you feel on your paint even AFTER you wash your car. Clay bars - You can read up on it on autopia.org.

Polish - hmmm I dunno how necessary it is. Good if you have a lot oxidation and wear on your paint. I dunno if you really need to if you just have a lot of surface contaminants.

Sealant - Pretty good - this assumes though that your paint is nice and clean. I like Klasse-All-in-one. A nice synthetic acrylic-based sealant / wax / polish that lasts for a long time (3-6 months for me)

Wax - people spend a lot of energy fighting over this one but the previous steps are a lot more important towards the long care health of your paintjob.
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 06:40 AM
  #27  
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I have heard good things about klasse but it always seemed to be a kit recommended which contained 4 or 5 products and cost over $100... I see I can get a 33 oz klasse all in one jug for under $40... that sounds ideal.

It sounds like this, a bag of microfiber clothes and a wash mitt will be enough to get me going yeah?

I might go clay bar sometime but I am not pessimistic about that and it seems you can do that any time right?

Thinking along these lines:

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product...lang=en-US&s=1

http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product...lang=en-US&s=1

http://www.amazon.com/Klasse-All-One.../dp/B0002LBKF6

http://www.meguiars.com/?car-washing...gle-Body-Brush

and something like this maybe

http://www.autogeek.net/pinmicmit.html
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 08:07 AM
  #28  
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There's been a recent craze over grout sponges, available from Lowe's or Home Depot (loose kinds, available unwrapped.)

I would go with one of those before anything else. They're cheap, effective, and last forever. However, they do lose solution fast and don't give it up readily. I use one and watched really closely for wash-induced marring and have yet to see any. If not a grout sponge then I would go with a lambs wool mitt. The reason for that is microfiber has that "sticky" quality to it. It's basically microscopic channels to hold the wash solution and dirt and it can be difficult to rinse clean, even using the two bucket method. I've found lambs wool to release dirt more readily than microfiber mitts, but many people use microfiber with the same success.

I *feel* like microfiber is the most aggressive of the wash mediums. The micro channels are really good at getting every last piece of dirt of the paint in one pass, whereas other mediums might require another pass on dirtier vehicles (really only a problem with unwaxed cars.) If used with a grit guard, or frequently rinsed out thoroughly, MF is probably one of the better wash mediums.

Brushes are a little bit misunderstood in the detailing world. I like using then for wheels, but only because the bristles reach into the lug nut sockets. If you use a brush very carefully, as if it were any other kind of mitt or sponge, it'll be good. Even synthetic brushes are pretty good on paint. The key of brush function is that its long bristles act as channels for wash solution to travel up (adhesive and cohesive forces at play.) However, if you get the wrong brush, or if a brush is manufactured improperly, too stiff bristles can scratch up your paint pretty badly. Also, "paint friendly" brushes are feathered at the ends. But sometimes, the feathered tip will wear down past the "feathers" and it'll be stiff unfeathered bristles on your paint. There's no simple way of checking your brush for this wear. A respected member of Autopia once ruined some BBS wheels because of this de-feathering thing.



Aside from wash media, your choices of microfiber are pretty good. If you're willing to shop online I would get all of it from autogeek. Your detailing microfibers are fine but for drying you'll want to look for a 70/30 blend (most blends are 80/20.) 70/30 blends will be advertised as such and are specifically made for drying (more absorbent.) Btw, I don't remember what the two numbers are for. One is for polyamide and the other is polyester. And uh... I haven't found waffle weave or regular pile to make that big of a difference in drying but most people will swear that waffle weaves dry better.
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 02:37 PM
  #29  
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Mother's Products.....FTW!!!!
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 02:03 PM
  #30  
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Anyone tried fast wax? I just go one from a guy selling in the self car wash, I bought one to try but I expected it was like a scam.. Just tried it today and it works great!! Its a spray that you just wipe on and wipe off, no water and its amazingly clean, the dirt and hard water spots comes off easily without hard buffing. it works well on glass too better than any glass cleaner I've used
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 02:47 PM
  #31  
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1) Never use a sponge. It will trap dirt and grime on the surface and scratch your clear coat.
2) Use car wash solution. This is designed to work with the wax on your car an not strip it off
3) Use 2 buckets and two wash mitts, one for the lower half of your car and one for the top half. Since the bottom half of the car will be dirtier than the top, this will help reduce scratches because one mitt is used for the bottom and one for the top.
4) Always wash in the shade if possible
As far as wax, I have a ton of it, Mothers, meguiars, eagle one, etc. It is finding what you like.


And like someone said autopia.org There is so much stuff on washing cars there. That is where I learned. Because there is no way we can tell you everything you need to know.
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 11:47 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by kungpaosamuraiii
There's been a recent craze over grout sponges, available from Lowe's or Home Depot (loose kinds, available unwrapped.)

I would go with one of those before anything else. They're cheap, effective, and last forever. However, they do lose solution fast and don't give it up readily. I use one and watched really closely for wash-induced marring and have yet to see any. If not a grout sponge then I would go with a lambs wool mitt. The reason for that is microfiber has that "sticky" quality to it. It's basically microscopic channels to hold the wash solution and dirt and it can be difficult to rinse clean, even using the two bucket method. I've found lambs wool to release dirt more readily than microfiber mitts, but many people use microfiber with the same success.

I *feel* like microfiber is the most aggressive of the wash mediums. The micro channels are really good at getting every last piece of dirt of the paint in one pass, whereas other mediums might require another pass on dirtier vehicles (really only a problem with unwaxed cars.) If used with a grit guard, or frequently rinsed out thoroughly, MF is probably one of the better wash mediums.

Brushes are a little bit misunderstood in the detailing world. I like using then for wheels, but only because the bristles reach into the lug nut sockets. If you use a brush very carefully, as if it were any other kind of mitt or sponge, it'll be good. Even synthetic brushes are pretty good on paint. The key of brush function is that its long bristles act as channels for wash solution to travel up (adhesive and cohesive forces at play.) However, if you get the wrong brush, or if a brush is manufactured improperly, too stiff bristles can scratch up your paint pretty badly. Also, "paint friendly" brushes are feathered at the ends. But sometimes, the feathered tip will wear down past the "feathers" and it'll be stiff unfeathered bristles on your paint. There's no simple way of checking your brush for this wear. A respected member of Autopia once ruined some BBS wheels because of this de-feathering thing.

Aside from wash media, your choices of microfiber are pretty good. If you're willing to shop online I would get all of it from autogeek. Your detailing microfibers are fine but for drying you'll want to look for a 70/30 blend (most blends are 80/20.) 70/30 blends will be advertised as such and are specifically made for drying (more absorbent.) Btw, I don't remember what the two numbers are for. One is for polyamide and the other is polyester. And uh... I haven't found waffle weave or regular pile to make that big of a difference in drying but most people will swear that waffle weaves dry better.
This guy knows his stuff!

Grout sponges are the best method to clean your ride! I made the switch from MF to grout sponges (for washing) and will never look back.

I prefer Lowes ProLine Professional Tile & Grout Sponge 7 x 4.5 x 2.25, $1.98 each, that I slice in half height wise to make two 7 x 4.5 x 1.125 sponges.

I use 14 sponges each wash, using ONR because of water restrictions. 1 wash bucket, 2 rinse buckets.

The sponges I use for the bottom half of the paint areused once, maybe twice, before retireing them for the day.

The sponges release dirt better than any MF/lamb/cotton mitt I have ever used.
Old Apr 21, 2009 | 11:56 PM
  #33  
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This is what I have of meguiars:
Scratch x
Swirl x
Nxt 2.0 wax
polish ( forgot the name)
Foaming tire shine
Nxt car wash soap
Interior cleaning wipes
Old Apr 22, 2009 | 12:03 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Dr_Isotope
Meguiars is fine if you're happy with off-the-shelf consumer grade product that's really no better than anything else sitting on the shelf next to it. You'll get the same results from Mother's, Black Magic, hell, even Turtle Wax. Sure, the professional stuff is better, but the increased cost will easily allow you to buy better product.

Sonus 3-step paint prep, Klasse acrylic sealant, P21s carnauba. Go to Klasse + P21s, you'll never go back to consumer waxes.
x2

I've been waxing with Pinnacle Liquid Souveran it's a very easy wax to work with, I will never go back to meguiars.

Here's alot of pinnacles products...http://www.autogeek.net/picarcaki.html


I also use alot of adam's products as far as detailing goes. http://www.adamspolishes.com/
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