This would be my choice for a TT-01...



Sorry Adam....

RC Schnitzer BMW M3 Sport Evo - TT01
Item #58323

 

Actually... that's the body I wanted next.

Still a sweet choice.

 

I thought so...

....price check on isle 1!!!

DRIFT D-1M 15T Motor $43.50 Part Number: YM-D1M

Part# SCR-6712 (List Price $60.00)
Yokomo SCR-6712 Electric Speed Controller
with Reverse Control. Great ESC for Drift Cars and etc

Let me know what you can do homie...

 

If we're all going to be running the same motor... I'd recommend the Yokomo 27T Drift motor or anything similar without locked timing. Will give us plenty of runtime, the brushes will last longer, etc. 15 turns is way overkill. Plus, you wouldn't be able to run that motor on the supplied ESC in the Tamiya kits. I still think the silvercan is the way to go, or brushless.

Anyways...

Joe, you have a PM.

 

You have PM back Zack attack. Like I said, just keep me in the loop on any equipment changes we're making as a team.

SLIDE4 Di!!!

 

Here is my proposition for the equipment...

Motor: Tamiya Sport Tuned 540. Easy, cheap, more power than the silvercan. Plus, no maintenence.

ESC: Tamiya kit ESC or Futaba MC230.

Radio, body, wheels: whatever floats your fancy. Tires are yet to be determined.

If we all want to go for a team paint scheme, I know someone who can throw some professional paint for us.

 

I'm diggin it! Lets see what we can throw together....

 

Also, I think a front one-way for the TT01 would be a good upgrade as long as we don't plan on running on ABS.

 

as for the motor im down with whatever brown is agreed upon. there is no such thing as a "drfit esc" or "drift motor". its all marketing and yokomo has rediculously overpriced stuff.

any motor would be fine with me. i like the stock silvercan as much as i like my 17t. if we use slidey tires like worn yokomo's torque wont really matter and we'll get kicky-sweet run times. trinity p2k might be a way to go also...

locking the rear diff is a must

you can make the front diff a LSD by using 2-3mm pieces of fuel tubing as spacers in the diff. theres a tutorial on rcdori.com in the chassis section.

my suggestion for tires: either stock tt-01 tires with e-tape ( i STILL cant get over how perfect it drifts) OR what the Arai drifters use. worn yokomo zero's so the rubber contacts the ground OR half worn ABS pipe which i have a ____-ton of. for the taped tires i would recommend a front oneway for e-braking but its totally not neccessary. for yoko-slows or abs its a deathwish.

tt-01's have a front camber quirk where its built in to be uneven from left to right. adjustable upper arms for the front may be worth looking into if we run plastic tires. for taped stockers its not an issue.

esc should be the stock tt-01 coppermix silvia/ z-tune skyline one. why buy a new esc when the car comes with a beauty of a esc for what we need.

battery should be standard also. i veote what me and horsham rc use: epic 3000 nimh. its like $18 or so and works awesome. deans connectors are optional but i run them religeously. tamiya connectors melt and can catch on fire. adams tamiya battery connector burned up an no longer works.

 

I find the silvercan alright for most purposes, but it lacks the power for getting a high speed drift going. However... the silvercan will definitely provide a good motor to use for learning for now. Perhaps we can look at the sport-tuned motor as a viable option for later on.

Locked rear, I agree. Also agree with the adjustable arm kit...

I need some more time on the Yokoslos before I set a verdict on tires. I think with a higher RPM motor, the HPIs would be great. Although they do wear a little quick.

Connectors are more of a personal preference. Tamiyas only melt when/if they get worn out or loose and you're trying to push too much current through them. I've melted my fair share of connectors, but only when I was running 7-cells and a 13 turn motor. With the silvercan, you won't be pulling any crazy amp number high enough to melt the Tamiyas. Deans are indefinitely better though, so I say its up to you.

Slide4 D-spec:
-TT01 chassis
-Locked rear diff
-Silvercan motor
-Kit ESC
-Tamiya bearing set
-Adjustable arm set

 

I cant believe I had that JR Racing transmitter just sitting around. Im such an idiot. Oh well. At least I can use that one as soon as I get a hold of some 75mhz stuff from Horsham next week.

I like my T-Spec setup but if you guys are suggesting all these crazy things I might be able to make the switch. That means I'll have an advantage cause I'll have two D-Spc cars! Righteous...

Im way too broke for a new hobby...

 

ok my experiences and learnings i did yesterdya:

yokomo wheels are CRAP. i actually stripped the hex out of one of my gram lights.

for the yokomo zero's they do not come broken in. you have to run -2 degrees of camber and break them in. which leads me to my next point...

if we run these cars we need the adjustable front camber arms. i need to get a set so throw that on the order zack. get eds z-tune tt-01 car im buying it for his birthday. i ran the yokomos on pavement yesterday and it definitely drifted one way and spun out the other way.

i lost my train of thought. hahahahahahah

 

cleaned up the unnecessary bits of the track and make is simpler to make and also shortened the straight-away:

 

Sweet track D! That short straight on the right side could prove to be a biscuit. I dont know which way you intended the track to be run but I think one direction is much easier than the other IMO...

Zack, I dug through ALL my RC stuff and only found one 75mhz crystal so I'll need the reciever and the crystal set still. I'll let you know about ordering it on thursday. Thats when my finances will be figured out.

I found the front camber adjustment on the T-Spec and made some changes but I still havent had a chance to try it out... ...its looks sweet though. Im also running two different rims now since the extra set I had lying around didnt clear in the front. There was no way I was gonna put the stock T-Spec rims and tires on there. Way too ugly...

D, sucks about the Yokomo rims stripping out on ya. That totally blows. Oh yeah, upon further inspection another one of those rims was busted up pretty bad and ready to blow out...

 

the track can be run in either direction. teh feint arrow is the direction i originally intended though, but there is no rule saying we cant run it backwards. as far as teh small straightaway, i put it in there to be a biscuit. the switchbacks and decreasing radius turns and long sweepers and double apex's are meant to hone our skills. if we can drift this track forwards and backwards in tandem and not hit anything we will be able to drift with better more experienced drifters if we have big drift get togethers.

next time we get a drift gtg going at peruzzi id like to tape out that track layout on the floor and give it a shot. i want to get us more organised and less bashing around. no more destruction derbies or hap-hazard slamming into eachother by accident.



right now im all about using the stock tt-01 tires with e-tape. i cant stress how gorgeous and controlled my drifts feel.



joe right now im using a 200mm hpi skyline i had around and my tamiya 2-piecers with the tt-01 stock tires on them. you can use my tt-01 wheels if you want. i feel bad about breaking your t-spec wheels . ill buy you a set still if yo uwant.

 

Its cool man. Dont worry about the rims. Seriously. It wasnt a big deal at all and I have more than enough rims to keep me going...

 

 

I wanna go so bad! My batteries arent even charged though. No chance in me making it down there at all...

 

Im pretty sure I messed up my car again last night. I dont know what happened but the rear wheels arent getting as much power as the front. Its weird and it definately wont drift....

 

Not the diff again, is it?