So I did my own oil change on April 8th, switched from Jiffy Lube's Syth-blend to Royal Purple Full Synthetic 5w-20.
We are now at 1 month later and 970 miles later. The dipstick shows that it's a third of the way down from the Full line...so I reckon I'm going to need to put in another quart soon.....?
Is my car burning oil at an abnormal rate?

 

wrong section to post in. post in drivetrain

 

mine burns atleast 2 quarts every 5k miles. been getting worse through the years

 

That seems fairly excessive? Are you sure it was at the correct level before after the work was finished?

 

Yeah, did the work myself. Drained all the oil and added 4 full quarts. I'm wondering if it's burning because the engine is adjusting from a synth blend to a full synth.

 

Dud you measure it,when the engine was cold?

 

Also, after your oil change did you run the engine before your final measurement to make sure the oil filter was full? IIRC it holds just over a cup...

(If you measure after just dumping the oil in, there are very likely "voids" that will be filled when the oil is circulated by running the engine.)

 

Kanchi- Yeah, engine was cold. I measured it had been sitting for about an hour. I'll make a note to check it tomorrow morning before I start it.

Tomas- Oil change was done a month ago so it should've had enough time to run all over the place by now. Funny thing was, before I switched to Royal Purple Full Synth, I had a synth blend from Jiffy Lube. First time I went to a synth blend and at 4k on the Jiffy Lube Synth blend the oil light came on. First time I've ever seen the light on. Jiffy Lube techs told me there were no leaks when they did the change.

Figured I should do my own oil changes from now on see what happens...and it saves me a grip. Jiffy Lube wanted $95 for a full synth change and $70 for a synth blend.....RP only costs me $45!

 

mobile 1 full synthetic is only 24$ for 5 quarts

 

Is it as good as Royal Purple? Noticed a BIG difference when I put in the RP. Engine is idling a lot more smoother, not as much vibration in the car from it either. Steering wheel used to vibrate a little bit from the engine and now there's pretty much no more vibration, even with the cooling fan kickin in!

 

I have only run mobil 1 in my car and pulled the valve cover a month ago and had little to no signs if wear at 81k. I highly reccomed it...and changing your own oil.

 

how many miles is on your car? possible leaks for older cars are at the oil pan, and from the gasket on the valve cover. check those places and if its leaking, its time to replace! if you are running low on oil, you will hear clicking noises from the engine meaning the crankshaft isn't getting the oil its supposed to up there.

and yes, mobile 1 izzzz besssttttt

 

Car just passed the 90k mark so the miles aren't terrible. I'll check around the engine block for any seepage.

 

dang 81k miles on your 06 LOL

i have 61K plus change on my 05 lol
plus i was thinking of changing over to royal purple but dont know ive been using castrol

 

At 30k, my '08 burned a qt of oil drivin from so. Cali. to west Texas. Dealer said it's not unheard of to burn oil; something about the piston rings, low viscosity synthetic, and/or sustained rpm's (75 to 85 mph mostly).

Now at 60k, I've only had to add a bit here and there between oil changes, but only a few times.

IMHO, as long as it's not external leaks or internal compression issues, I'd not worry about it.

 

I have 105k on my 08 and run nothing but GTX full synthetic, loose about a qt every 2500 mile and it has done this from day one.

 

ticking can also be a sign of worn valve shims. but even than it isn't something that anyone should worry about with this style of toyota engine unless its a knock or ping...unfortunately toyota motors are notorious for being noisy.

just figured i would say that. didnt want people freaking out because if something in the normal rang. just keep your oil level up.

to start every engine loses oil. at different rates.

yeah we have a failry low compression setup so, when the motor is pushed we do end up losing oil. every tc i have worked on has done this...even low mileage ones. but not a lot. just keep an eye on it that's why we have dipsticks

it also depends on the way you drive. if you hop on the gas the oil will eventually find its way past the piston rings to the combustion chamer and out of the engine... no piston is completely sealed from the crank case.

even with really good oil rings (similar to piston rings)

the rings in the picture below will never completely seal leaving a gap... but that's why there are multiple of them per piston (which isnt always the case. cars can have anywhere from 1+ to whatever depending on the demands of the engine), to improve the seal the rings are just turned so the gaps oppose each other. the piston rings and piston assembly also retain oil. this gappage that allows oil into the combustion chamber also causes the carbon you find back in the crank housing to appear. (what makes oil black)

i believe we have two sets of compression rings , two sets of oil rings and a gasket between the oil rings to prevent blow back on each piston..

so if your oils is black and you think that's ok, think again....that stuff is like microscopic sand just working at your engine bearings and other mating surfaces. dont freak just change your oil out...

royal purple is the !@#$, clokwerck got me into this stuff...its either this or lucas products for me.

if you want it done right, do it yourself. blah blah blah

 

everyone else is putting up great responses but just about every person that i know that has switched from a regular or even full synthetic oil to royal purple has had issues with leaks and burning oil.. i use mobile 1 full synthetic and thats all i have run since the free 3 factory oil changes and my car has 113k on it and has no oil consumption at all..