Okay, for some reason, the (excellent) original how-to was deleted. I will now give you my method for smoking your taillights via the VHT niteshades. I find this a very easy process, easier than using vinal tinting in fact and much more professional looking. I will post better pics when I get the chance. Please note.. I WILL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY DAMAGES TO YOUR CAR, OR THE NUMBER OF COMPLIMENTS YOU WILL RECEIVE

Before (the third brake is done in this pic but ignore it)



After:




Now the original poster actually painted his while they remained on the car. I would not recommend that as you could easily slip and wetsand your car's paint along with the taillight or worse. I will mention removing the taillights below.

Okay here is the process

Materials:

VHT NS (I would get no less than 2 cans of to be on the safe side-available multiple places online. : got mine here due to its location in relation to both coasts)

1000 Grit wetsandpaper Original wetsanding/error correction

2000 grit wetsandpaper Final wetsanding

Painters tape

Duplicolor Acrylic Lacquer Glossy Clearcoat

-Nothing I have used goes on as easy and even as this stuff. Seriously, dont get the Krylon. You can find this at Autozone or other fine auto part retailer. I would get 2 cans to be on the safeside. Especially if you make a mistake. NOTE: There are two cans.. the one pictured and a 'professional' version in a black and grey can. The one pictured will NOT say glossy but it is fine. The black can WILL say glossy.

10mm long socket or (preferably) a 10 mm short wrench

Phillips head screwdriver

A very long and thin screwdriver (optional)

Flashlight

Alcohol rubbing or tequila.. You'll need both at some point or another.


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Taillight removal

First, open the hatch and pull the covers to your tail cables and bulbs. Disconnect your cable harnesses from the lights. You may need to stick a small screwdriver in the slot you will see to release clip tension.

Next, use a phillips head to unscrew the two bolts on the lower trim of the hatch opening. This is connected to the top of the bumper. Then, go outside to the rear fenderwell and use either a 10mm wrench or phillips head to remove the bolt holding the bumper to the body on each side.

Then pull the fender out a bit to release it from the clip. You may need a small screwdriver to release it. Continue to pull and pop it out of each clip. You may want to CAREFULLY insert a screwdriver to again release tension from each. Soon it will be popped out all round and tilting down.

Now go back into the tailight access panel and use your 10 mm short wrench to undo each (of 3) bolts. One has a wiring connector. It just pops off, so pry it with a screwdriver or give it a good yank or two. The guys know what I'm talking about right?? ..eh.. its been a long day.


Once the nuts are gone the tail should be very loose. You may have to punch it with your palm or something just to break any seal. Once out.. and you may need to pry the bumper back to get it out.. place it in a safe place and do the other the same way. NOTE: I found the bolt holes on the rear hatch a great place to find a fulcrum to pry the bumper a bit.



Side Mirrors

Removing the side mirrors is way more easy than it ought to be. Open your door and you will see a black plastic plate on the opposite end of the mirror assembly. Pop it out with a screwdriver to reveal 3 bolts and nuts with a wiring connector.



Disconnect wiring connector and while supporting the side mirror assembly, use a 10mm wrench to undo the bolts. Place the assembly in a safe SOFT place so as not to scratch the paint and do the other side.

Now get in your car and drive to the store to get some lunch.

Actually you want to tackle the side mirror assemby next. And its a bear. You may be able to pop the plastic painted cover off just with hand pressure but I wouldnt totally recommend that. I actually was able to pop out the thin painted plastic portion of the cover that is under the signal light out with my fingers. from there I cold pry up the side to loosen it a bit.


Now flip it over and push in one side of the mirror and shine your flashlight into the open crevasse. You will see clips in there that are the same color of the painted cover. Guess what they hold on . Now use a long screwdriver to stick inside the crevasse and pry them while putting a slight pulling pressure on the painted cover. They should pop right off. I actually ripped one completely away and did no harm, but I could have super side mirrors so I wouldnt suggest you doing that.

Still with me? Good.

You will see the side signal held in by 2 screws and a wiring clip. Pull out the wiring clip (the wires are thin) and unscrew the side marker. Thats it!

Painting.... DUM DUUM DUUUUUUUUUM!

Okay, the fun part.

Tape up the black portion of your taillight (the part that runs along the hatch door seal). Wash your hands thoroughly, take some alchohol and wipe off the lights very carefully to remove oils.

I painted mine in direct sunlight for the VHT to get an idea how light will pass through. My lights show just a hint of red when the direct sunlight reflects back at you from a mirrored interior piece near the bulbs.

Shake the VHT very well. Starting at a little more than a foot away, start spraying in an even motion that begins about 6 inches to the left or right of your target. Continue in an even motion until you have passed the target about six inches away and reverse for another pass to cover the next section. Remember not to get too caught up with the small sections. We are going for overall look here so step back and take it all in. Light dusting is the key here. Do not attempt to put this all on in one pass!!

CAUTION.. Refrain from spraying the side signal lights as dark as the tails.

Once optimum tint is acheived, bring them inside to dry.. In about 30 minutes to an hour, make sure the surface is free of dust or particles (perhaps a light wipe with a CLEAN microfiber)...make SURE the surface is dry. If you see slight bumps or imperfections dont worry too much the clear coat we are putting on next should take care of it.

Next shake up your clear coat.. dont wait for the rattle of ***** because much like Michael Bay's films, there are none

In much the same fashion as the VHT.. spray your lights. Be aware: the duplicolor has an adjustment for angle of spray which really helps in the applicaiton. Make sure its pointed in the right direction. I put on a fairly heavy coat, let it dry for about 20 minutes (more if humid) and layed down a second heavy coat. Next, I waited an hour and wetsanded the surface with a 2000 grit sandpaper.

Wetsanding.

Okay, you may need to start with the rougher stuff (1000) and move to the finer stuff (2000). I used 1000 only if I saw a flaw. Otherwise a lot of overall wetsanding with 2K should be suffuciant.

To wetsand, rinse the clearcoated surface and be sure to leave some standing water on it, then, rinse the sandpaper underwater to soak it. Simply get a good grip on the sandpaper, lay it flat on the on the light, and move it over the entire surface in a crosshatching motion.

Don't use more pressure than you need, let the paper do the work. Some areas to look out for: the raised lettering and the raised circle for the back up lights. If you feel it dragging use more water. Its is VERY similer to using a claybar.

If you feel like you are moving too slowly, relax, you will improve your speed as you get used to it. Once you feel that you have covered most of the surface (it should be mostly looking an opaque hazy grey when dry), dry off completely and hit it with a couple more coats of the clear coat.

Once dry, get ready for your final (hopefully) wetsand. Use the same method as above, but make sure the entire surface (aside from perhaps the raised writing) is looking hazy when dry. Try not to have little "dots" of gloss left over. This is actually uneveness in the finish. If you see this, work on just that area till as hazy as you think you can get it.

Next FULLY dry and wipe with a clean microfber and apply your last clear coat. Try and get it evenly glossy but don't over do it as you may easily bring on a drip or run at this point.

Mistakes
If you see a mistake like a drip or run, remember it will take longer for the drip to dry, so be patient. Use a hrsher sandpaper (1000) if you wish.


3rd Brake-light

I didnt cover how to do the 3rd light, but its the same process. Removing it is pretty easy and can be found in the tech manual. I'm too lazy to write it up tonight.



Re-install

Wait a few hours and install them in reverse order that they came out. YAY!

I will try and take some pics of the process. If you have pics, let me know and I can place it in the text above.



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Hope this helps! I really enjoy the compliments I'm getting from the public, and have (knock on wood) have been in front of a state trooper and police cruiser with no problems plus we have done tests and can see the brakelights fine. I notice they appear to the untrained eye just slightly darker (but much more glossy) than some of the new cars with darker tails and, in my opinion, look much more custom then vinal covers. Not that there is anything wrong with the vinal covers, different strokes to move the world and all.



Enjoy!

 

i love you....

 

Like the love a man has for a fine Whiskey? THANKS!

 

no sir, thank you, im goin to to print this out when i do mine this weekend.... idk if i should do the side mirrors tho but ill cross that bridge when i get there.

 

I wish I had better pics. I should have listened to another board member here and taken pics of my process. BLAH! I might do some follow up pics later.

Good luck DavedavetC! Let us know how they turn out. In a week or so, try using a polisher on them and your favorite compound or polish for a GREAT shine!

 

hey is this illegal would i get pulled over for it n can i get a ticket?

 

Yes and possibly. Although I don't think it is something that is terribly noticeable.

Hey, someone post if they have been pulled for niteshades.

 

hey if you want i can take some pics of my process and send them to you and you can post them up in your write up... it could be a joint effort. just let me know.

 

Heck Yeah, I'm sending you a PM

 

ok

also i say this one replaces the old one.

 

Wow, thanks for the 2nd write-up

 

would have been better in BSP... haha dave.

 

wow great Freaking post Sanjuro! way better then the first one Ill owe all my compliments to you.

Thanks again, doing mine THURSDAY!!!

 

nice write up

 

i also attempted this over the weekend and it turned out great, sorry for the lack of pictures, instead of taking out the lights we just taped off the area with blue painters tape and newspaper, and put a big sheet over the back half of the car just to be sure to block any overspray. This was one of the easiest mods and it makes a huge difference!

Thanks for the first and second write ups!

 

Thanks guys and gals. The real key here is to take your time and plan ahead.

The process itself is pretty simple. The mistakes that you could make from getting in a hurry could be very time consuming to fix.

 

can someone say sticky!!!!

 

i tired looking for the clear coat at autozone but cant seem to find it...what does the can look like

 

I posted a pic in the instructions above. There is also a "professional" version in a black and grey can, but I couldn't tell the difference.

 

oh its on like donkey kong!