I started replacing the power steering pump, cause it needs done.

I removed the fluid, disconnected the hose, and the 2 bolts holding the power steering pump to the car. Problem is the 2 bolts are all the way out hitting the frame.

They are also still holding the power steering pump on the car still. How do I get the power steering pump to drop?

I am really tempted to drill holes in the frame, but the bottom bolt is at the edge of the frame which will probably do a lot more harm than good.


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Have you tried sticking a block of wood (about 2in/3in thick) under the oil pan and jacking up/moving the engine up a little? It might be able to give you enough clearance but do it slowly. It helped me when I got a ratchet stuck between the tensioner pulley and the frame with absolutely no room to move.

Power Steering Removal Guide and Bleeding System (If you need it or will help):

https://i.imgur.com/YBEKsed.png

https://i.imgur.com/eGCXgZR.png

https://i.imgur.com/kwSg9y3.png

 

Thanks, but I also thought about that. Frame would still be in the way. I grinded the bottom frame to remove the bottom bolt, and drilling a 1" hole through the frame for the top bolt.
I was going to lower the engine with a 2x4 under the oil pan with the jack, but to go about 6" for the top bolt looks like the axles would be in the way.

All the guides I saw, and videos, and nobody seemed to have this issue. Hopefully when I get that 2nd bolt it'll be a piece of cake.

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Just got it removed. Every guide and video i saw nobody mentions the wire connector on the pump. Hopefully i didn't mess the wire up.

 

I think you can lift the engine higher if you unscrew the power steering return line brackets from the fender well. (Of course, you also have to disconnect the passenger side and rear motor mounts.) There are two power steering return line brackets. Each bracket has two screws. One bracket is near the ABS module and the second bracket is adjacent to the PCV valve. Unfortunately, one or two rubber hoses will make removing the second bracket a little more difficult than removing the first one.

Might be a good idea to weld patches over any significant cuts and or holes in the frame. A front end collision might not crush (the frame) the way it was engineered.

 

Thanks, but already drilled a 1" hole to get the too bolt, and grinded the bottom frame a little to get the bottom bolt.

 

Glad you got it fixed. I mentioned the lift thing in case you ever need to change the belt tensioner.

 

I just got the new one on today, cause of working full time 10 hour days on top of this. Anyway, are you supposed to replace the copper washers on the line going to the power steering pump? I didn't see that on the guides either, but somebody said you do.

 

The copper washers are crush washers, aka seals. In a perfect world, I'd replace them. If everything is already reassembled, just keep an eye out for leaks.

 

Ok. I did take it apart to replace them. I did the fluid bleed with the car jacked up, but got a leak somewhere. Found that out when i moved it tothe driveway. I tightened everything very tight.

Doesn't look like its the pump or rack and pinion, but rack and pinion is making a lot of noise.

 

Tyat problem is fixed as far as i know. Seems like the belts too tight. Car sounds funny when started, and when you turn the wheel sounds almost like it wants to stall. So i am not doing much with the car running obviously. I did look over the belt diagram again, and its the same as i did it.

 

Now that you mention it, there are three serpentine belts for the 1st Gen tC. The long one is for the supercharger. It's three or four inches longer than the other two.

I don't know what the short belt is for but it might be no power steering or no air conditioning.

The middle length belt is ~3/4" longer than the short belt. If you want the OEM length, tell the parts monkey you want the middle length. You may have to get him to look at each belt length to determine which belt you want.

BTW, if you have the short belt on all pulleys, you might want remove it before it damages the belt tensioner. Replacing that is a serious pain in the neck.

 

No it was the original belt. It was deteriorating from oil leaking all over everything. Separate issue i think i fixed. Got a new belt same size almost installed when the dang bolt on the tensioner to move the tensioner stripped. You aren't kidding. Replacing the tensoiner next.

What makes this project harder was this car must've had passenger front damage, cause the frame you can tell was repaired. Clean title so probably had a friend fix it or the previous owner fixed it. So everything is even tighter work conditions.

 

Got the new tensioner on. So much better, but found out the new belt was wrong size. Needed atleast 1/2" longer to slip on. Autozone said i needed 770k7 belt, and they don't carry it. Just ordered one online. Hopefully that one will do the trick.

 

I wish they'd put a skull and crossbones on the short belt box. No telling how many tensioners have been stripped.

 

The old tensioner didn't move as smooth. I wasn't even able to get the belt on. I think it was on its way out anyway.

 

Finally got the new belt. Took the car for a drive. Everytime i turned the wheel it wanted to stall. Saw its the pressure switch on the pump. Could it also be the wire from not knowing it was still attached to the car by the wire? I was trying to see where thay wire goes, but couldn't figure it out.

 

Replaced the power steering pressure switch, and still acts up. I am guessing its the wire going to the wiring harness. Not sure if its safe to drive, but getting it to a garage sometime next week. Hoping they don't have to remove the engine to fix the wire if thats what it is.

 

Took the car to the shop, and they said they had to reprogram the Throttle position sensor. Not sure how that got effected from me messing with the power steering, but whatever.

 

Interesting. That's what separates a hacker like me from the professionals. I didn't know a TPS could be reprogrammed, much less mess with your steering. Live and learn.