Ok, so I'm thinking about getting some nitrous (probably zex or nx 50 shot) on my auto tC.

I will also get a purge kit and a window switch (cold plugs and 91 octane fuel too)

Now, I have a few questions -

1. Will it cause problems if I let the car drive with the nitrous shooting in 4th gear? If it will, can I leave the car on '3' and just floor it and let the window switch do its business?

2. lets say I'm driving along in 4th gear, and I feel the urge to floor it... the car downshifts to some lower gear and the rpms SHOOT way up, how does this play with the nitrous? will it get along well?

3. Do I really need a wideband o2 sensor? And if so, how exactly would I tune the car? Do I now need the apex SAFC? Will any of this throw a CEL?

4. That's all, thanks in advance for taking your time to answer these questions!

Mike

 

Your best bet with this - is that you should not get Nitrous unless you already know the answers to these questions thoroughly. I'm not trying to shoot you down, but nitrous is dangerous, and you should do a lot of homework on it before you even consider it.

 

This is part of my "homework" on it... I don't plan on buying the kit tomorrow or anything... sheesh...

 

well, what i meant was to read up a lot on Nitrous, and how the applications are used and how they work on autos. Its not something you could probably find on ScionLife. Its like asking if you should turbocharge your auto tC and someone telling you to read up on how turbos work and how they degrade your engine faster. I didnt mean to come off harsh, sorry if i did.

 

no problem, just trying to find some answers, im sure alot of people on SL know the answer, but i am also reading elsewhere...

thanks

 

Do that but I also think you came to the right place asking these questions. Im sure someone here can help you.

 

calling wedrivescions! hehe

 

i'm not an expert, nor even knowledgeable with Nitrous....but i would be careful, very careful, as with the shifting down thing...

might be best to force the trannsmission to shift(like pull it down to 2 or 3) before running the nitrous


dont hold me to that, it is just my hypothesis...

 

3min3m2 - I agree to pulling it down to 3, but I dont know about pulling it down to 2 because that will only give me one gear to spray in... unless I want to do some crazy burnouts in first

 

that would be a SERIOUS burnout....especially without an LSD...since they dont make them anymore

 

bump

 

watching

 

Emanage Ultimate can control shifting/timing... so you can run n2o on an AT with ease.

 

Answers:
1) OD is your weakest gear and shouldn't be used when spraying. Keep the trans in 3(drive).

2) Answer one applies to this as well. Your window switch will determine when your nitrous activates. There is still no guarantee that your trans will not fail. All depends on how you drive your car and the extra power you add.

3) A wideband is a great "self" tuning tool BUT you can get a single dyno tune also that will be safe as long as you keep your standards like bottle presure, jet sizes, and fuel pressure constant.

 

I am designing a few application specific nitrous kits for the TC since I have taken the car with an "auto" over from my wife now and will keep people posted on results, specs, etc.

 

Ive had cars with nitrous in them on autos and manuals. the first thing is you need a two step colder plug preferably an iridium plug thats colder they work the best. then you need some 91 octane. a trans cooler so you dont cook the trans under nos power. a widow switch set to 3500 rpm msd works the best. the most you can put out on the nos to be safe is 35 shot. after your first run check the plugs. umyou can leave it in d on the auto because yoou will use up 3 gears getting down the track and you dont want to risk anything also overdrive doesnt make a difference all it acts like is a lower gear so you should be fine. you would need an wideband o2 sensor because its not going to make a difference because with 91 octane you already added more fuel enough to burn the nos. but normally how the jet setting normally works is the 35 shot is for stock motors with light upgrades the 50 shot is for minor motor work and the 75 shot and up is for major motor work. but purges are good but not needed because all you need is a blanket to warm the bottle and you will be fine.

 

2 step colder plug is to cold for a 35-50 shot. Iridium doesn't have to be used either and is not "best" by default.

I'm also confused on where you say 3500 rpm window switch is best? There is no standard as every application varies and many times you don't need a window switch with the proper system and set-up.

Your power levels and motor upgrade suggestions are coming from where exactly?

What does a bottle warmer have to do with needing a purge?

Cutejaboi, you really are off base on all your comments. This is not helpful as an unknowing novice can take your information as correct, which it is not!

 

Cutejaboi - you are really scaring me, 35 shot?! 50 with minor work?! I'm fairly sure the tC engine can handle short bursts of 75 shot without breaking, so I will be using 50 shot.

racetested - how does a dyno "tune" my car with the nitrous and what holds that tune after I leave the shop? Do I have to purchase any extra electronics?

thanks to all who are helping

 

Mike,
No worries on your motor handling 50hp if tuned properly.

The most important thing is your a/f ratio and a dyno can read this and let you know what it is. Now considering our ECM's don't have any tuning ability that I know of the only variable will be your nitrous system. You ask what holds the nitrous tune and I will explain below.

1) When you set your nitrous up bottle pressure is very important so "at least" have a bottle mounted gauge if not an in cabin gauge.

2) A bottle heater is the "easiest" way for a street car to maintain bottle pressure and ones switched on/off by a pressure switch are recommened over thermostatically controlled switch.

3) Fuel pressure is always constant unless your pump fails so no need to concern yourself with maintaining or adjusting anything on the fuel side once you get your a/f dialed in.

4) If you don't use a bottle heater and just rely upon ambient temps to control bottle pressure than you must familiarize yourself with what your bottle pressure may be and adjust the jets accordingly. Ths can be safe if you adjust for the "highest" bottle pressure as you'll just run rich(but safe) if bottle pressure drops. Worst case scenerio is giving up some power as bottle pressure drops. Better than tuning for a lower bottle pressure and then on a hot day having bottle pressure increase dramatically causing lean conditions.

5) Familiarize yourself with how much nitrous you consume for a given time so you aren't left with an empty bottle. I have an electronic controller that counts power settings and run time to let me know how much nitrous I consume and have left. Very handy!

Having your own wide band is a great option but I also relaize they are not all that user friendly with the added cost and installation. A moderate shot like 50 hp on our motors can be done pretty easily without getting to carried way with safety devices and extensive tuning.

 

racetested: thanks for the EXCELLENT information!!!

so basically ill take my car to a dyno shop and they will tell me what pressure i should keep my bottle at, and i will use a pressure controlled bottle heater for that