Axle Clunking....FML
09-21-2009, 04:30 AM
#1
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Axle Clunking....FML
...so recently I've noticed a clunking sound coming from the front driver side wheel well. I thought it was the coilovers, so I took my wheels off and checked it out, everything on the coils seemed tight, but then I focused my attention on the axle and I noticed it was loose and making a clunking noise. I'm not too sure what it is, I think it could be the axle bearing, but like I said, I'm not sure. I took pictures of the area and a quick video as well:
Mods: I'm not sure if this should go in drivetrain/power or suspension/handling so please move if needed.
notice all of the axle grease...
A quick video to show the problem
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRK84P135vs
Mods: I'm not sure if this should go in drivetrain/power or suspension/handling so please move if needed.
notice all of the axle grease...
A quick video to show the problem
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRK84P135vs
Last edited by sky-on; 09-21-2009 at 04:34 AM.
09-21-2009, 05:45 AM
#2
yeah i think its the axle.. how is while driving? the clunk is like inside the tranny or inside the boot? have you taken the axle out before, maybe its that clip inside that came loose
09-21-2009, 06:27 AM
#3
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It looks like the grease is coming from both the inboard (closest to the transmission) boot as well as the outboard boot, unless that's just the outboard boot collecting it all from the inboard boot leak.
You can clearly see the inboard boot wet with axle grease. That noise you're hearing is most likely the tripod joint assembly inside the the cage that holds it (the inboard joint) moving back and forth. The snap ring at the end could be shot causing this. But this is definitely axle grease, not transmission fluid. Meaning it's not an axle/transmission seal failure.
Looks like the inboard boot failed, grease leaked all over, and the joint has gone dry making noise.
To take the drivers side axle out, have to undo the axle nut, tap the axle out of the hub with a plastic hammer (to protect the axle), then use a special tool to unlock the axle from the transmission then pull it out, simplified version. But the brakes do not have to come off at all.
Wouldn't this still be covered under the powertrain warranty? Since the axle is part of the powertrain.
I think we that have older tc's need to start checking the axles on them since others are talking about axle noise (CV joint clicking) lately as well as grease leakages.
You can clearly see the inboard boot wet with axle grease. That noise you're hearing is most likely the tripod joint assembly inside the the cage that holds it (the inboard joint) moving back and forth. The snap ring at the end could be shot causing this. But this is definitely axle grease, not transmission fluid. Meaning it's not an axle/transmission seal failure.
Looks like the inboard boot failed, grease leaked all over, and the joint has gone dry making noise.
To take the drivers side axle out, have to undo the axle nut, tap the axle out of the hub with a plastic hammer (to protect the axle), then use a special tool to unlock the axle from the transmission then pull it out, simplified version. But the brakes do not have to come off at all.
Wouldn't this still be covered under the powertrain warranty? Since the axle is part of the powertrain.
I think we that have older tc's need to start checking the axles on them since others are talking about axle noise (CV joint clicking) lately as well as grease leakages.
09-21-2009, 06:34 AM
#5
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is axle covered under powertrain? I'm at 59725 miles so I've got another 250 until I'm not covered, lol. Dealerships scare me, but If i did go in, I'd have to lift the car all the way up and go back to stock wheels. I might take it to a shop that was recommended to me by a good friend. Either way, thanks for all the input guys, would this require a completely new axle, or just axle reassembly?
09-21-2009, 06:40 AM
#6
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most dealers don't repair the axles. Just replace the whole thing if there is an axle problem. They do repair the boots for tears, as there are kits for that. And I haven't seen an remanufactured axles for the tC, yet. But haven't checked the dealer lately, as I just saw some for 2004 camry's and earlier.
I think that axle is about $350, but if you do need one you could call Ken at TRDSparks.com and see what he could get it to you for.
That's hilarious if they deny you warranty coverage for lowering when Toyota's own TRD is lowering the car with their springs! I'd definitely check it out, because that job is going to be like $400-500 at a dealer if the axle is replaced.
I agree with dealerships and they scare you, they scare me too, but if i could save $500 I'd have them replace it, and watch over them while they do it
I think that axle is about $350, but if you do need one you could call Ken at TRDSparks.com and see what he could get it to you for.
That's hilarious if they deny you warranty coverage for lowering when Toyota's own TRD is lowering the car with their springs! I'd definitely check it out, because that job is going to be like $400-500 at a dealer if the axle is replaced.
I agree with dealerships and they scare you, they scare me too, but if i could save $500 I'd have them replace it, and watch over them while they do it
09-21-2009, 12:39 PM
#7
axles from the dealership are expensive ($450 for passenger and 500 for driver side) and then their install is about 300-400 on top of that. i got rebuilt axles from a local shop (they use OEM axles and rebuild them) for $300 for both of them and had a local Meinekee install them, and they charged me $200.
09-21-2009, 01:19 PM
#8
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axles from the dealership are expensive ($450 for passenger and 500 for driver side) and then their install is about 300-400 on top of that. i got rebuilt axles from a local shop (they use OEM axles and rebuild them) for $300 for both of them and had a local Meinekee install them, and they charged me $200.
09-21-2009, 02:35 PM
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09-21-2009, 02:38 PM
#11
being lowered for us is the primary reason, you change the drive angle to the point where it causes premature failure to the axles.
if you arent lowered at all or have a minimal (trdish) drop you wont have to worry about it, unless you're putting out a lot of power and doing some intense launches.
if you arent lowered at all or have a minimal (trdish) drop you wont have to worry about it, unless you're putting out a lot of power and doing some intense launches.
09-22-2009, 01:13 AM
#15
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^ yep.
Even if you just have a cracked boot... most times it is best to just replace the assembly. Otherwise you are spending $30 or more for a boot kit, and you have to take the joints apart to replace the boot. For $75.00 or so you can just replace the whole thing in less time
One of my boots is leaking a small bit.. I think from debris that caused all sorts of havoc under my car after taking out the bumper this winter. I have a new shaft lying in my back room for it. I got mine for $60.00 brand new (no rebuild, no core needed), but that is because I had my dad order it at his cost when I was home since I new I needed to replace it. I think he said it would normally cost a customer around $80.00 or so.
Even if you just have a cracked boot... most times it is best to just replace the assembly. Otherwise you are spending $30 or more for a boot kit, and you have to take the joints apart to replace the boot. For $75.00 or so you can just replace the whole thing in less time
One of my boots is leaking a small bit.. I think from debris that caused all sorts of havoc under my car after taking out the bumper this winter. I have a new shaft lying in my back room for it. I got mine for $60.00 brand new (no rebuild, no core needed), but that is because I had my dad order it at his cost when I was home since I new I needed to replace it. I think he said it would normally cost a customer around $80.00 or so.
12-29-2009, 07:37 PM
#18
It looks like the grease is coming from both the inboard (closest to the transmission) boot as well as the outboard boot, unless that's just the outboard boot collecting it all from the inboard boot leak.
You can clearly see the inboard boot wet with axle grease. That noise you're hearing is most likely the tripod joint assembly inside the the cage that holds it (the inboard joint) moving back and forth. The snap ring at the end could be shot causing this. But this is definitely axle grease, not transmission fluid. Meaning it's not an axle/transmission seal failure.
Looks like the inboard boot failed, grease leaked all over, and the joint has gone dry making noise.
To take the drivers side axle out, have to undo the axle nut, tap the axle out of the hub with a plastic hammer (to protect the axle), then use a special tool to unlock the axle from the transmission then pull it out, simplified version. But the brakes do not have to come off at all.
Wouldn't this still be covered under the powertrain warranty? Since the axle is part of the powertrain.
I think we that have older tc's need to start checking the axles on them since others are talking about axle noise (CV joint clicking) lately as well as grease leakages.
You can clearly see the inboard boot wet with axle grease. That noise you're hearing is most likely the tripod joint assembly inside the the cage that holds it (the inboard joint) moving back and forth. The snap ring at the end could be shot causing this. But this is definitely axle grease, not transmission fluid. Meaning it's not an axle/transmission seal failure.
Looks like the inboard boot failed, grease leaked all over, and the joint has gone dry making noise.
To take the drivers side axle out, have to undo the axle nut, tap the axle out of the hub with a plastic hammer (to protect the axle), then use a special tool to unlock the axle from the transmission then pull it out, simplified version. But the brakes do not have to come off at all.
Wouldn't this still be covered under the powertrain warranty? Since the axle is part of the powertrain.
I think we that have older tc's need to start checking the axles on them since others are talking about axle noise (CV joint clicking) lately as well as grease leakages.
