I've called some "Used Engine Suppliers" Around the West Coast and here in Vegas and they got some considerable number of engines for the 07 tC with under 30K miles for under 2 grand. So I was thinking about picking one up, take it home (uncle's garage) and make it a high compression (11's) engine minus high RPM extra-valve-lift (VVTL-i revs minus the L).

My question is, will a 2AZ-FE work as a high compression motor?

Would something like this work out?

: A stand-alone system, 2.5L bore, custom 2.5L high-comp coated pistons and rings, heavy duty valves (for the extra RPM load) new custom ordered cams built for high RPM timing and lift (Is this even useful?), a port and polish on the head, higher capacity injectors, a higher capacity fuel pump, wideband oxygen sensor (for tuning), a custom "Uncle's Special" header-to-tip tuned, but not noisy exhaust system and maybe a better oiling system and if the plastic intake manifold system can't handle the revs, a metal intake manifold and intake might be a good idea too.

I could spend 8grand on the build, but I just want to know how much power something like that could actually make in the real world? My uncle who worked for GM Performance in the 90's, quits, worked as a Contractor, worked at GM's Mr. Goodwrench, got layed-off recently and now works as a Real State Broker and traded his 06 Vette for an 08 GS (Some background eh?) said that if I find a really good tuner, I could make about 300 bhp and only like 200-220 ft. lbs. of power with that costly budget. We'll make it as a weekend project but I'm still not sure if it's doable on the 2AZ because I couldn't find high compression pistons for the tC, probably because everyone is going the "Forced Induction Way" which is also the reason I want to go N/A, to be unique. But, still I don't know where to get custom cams made for high RPM lift, and some local tuners said that I should just go turbo because they have more experience on that, and also it's easier to program the standalone with turbo.

I need some feedback on you N/A guys about this. I won't really trust a Corvette guy like my uncle to talk about Imports. Has anyone here done an N/A project and got more than 250bhp? (My goal is just 100bhp/L)


Oh, and would that engine beat my stock 130K mile 01 WRX that I got for 5grand? That's my current car, my tC is garaged with the tank drained. The insurance is freaking mad! (It costs as much as my mom's new IS250!)



Thanks guys!

 

talk to tcpete about that, i heard 205 so far..

 

How much has he spent so far? I won't do it if it cost more than my refund money (which is 6 grand).

 

~2k-3k or something like that but no more than 3

 

imo, that estimate sounds right about200

I'd be wary of a used block, unless you make sure to magnaflux it. What kind of guarantee are you getting if the block's crap?

Your goal should be airflow, things like a custom intake manifold and a massive p&p on the head.

Anything you could do to lighten the internals would help, like an 05-06 block; and to lighten up the car itself, too.

 

1 month, 1K miles warranty... That's it.

Why do I need to Magnaflux, it's not like it's actually that banged up with under 30K miles.

Why 05-06 block? I thought the 07-09 has a better system due to the extra oil jets?

 

true on the 07 on sorry on that, I'd choose it for the superior water flow and throttle butterfly.

I've bought used engines for different cars before, and have always been surprised (once very disappointed) by what I found. Mileage isn't always truth.

 

for 5-6 grand... built motor, s/c and u will be lucky to hit 300.... only motor? maybe 220 if u spend a LOT...

 

i think you should do a motor swap for that money...that has really never been done without a huge budget. like the 2gf-fe (camry v6 motor) have 268hp out of the box.

it seems like you should be able to get 280hp or more because 100hp per liter is not unheard of but i would never put my money on it. 11.0:1 comp pistons are definitely around.
some guy just dynoed a mildly built engine NA and it was like 180whp on a dynojet or something.

gl with whatever you do.

 

Boost is the only way to go on the 2az-fe motor.

 

Crower makes bigger cams for NA, and CP Pistons will custom make any compression ratio you want. Do a search here on normally aspirated motor builds and you'll find alot of things that have already been done. Also, every motor I've built in the past, I had the parts magnafluxed. Cheap insurance against hairline cracks turning into catastrophic failure when you least expect it.

 

+1
Though I've always thought it'd be nice to see a high compression and high rev 2AZ using an 86mm crank (1AZ ?), a stroker and cam setup from Crower would be a good way to get started on your NA goal.

 

Your best bet is to build the engine for a few extra grand and put on a dezod turbo kit. You will spend the same $$ and will yield over 300whp instead of MAYBE 190whp ..... this is not the engine to rebuild if you aren't going to add FI. simply put. It has been proven that the engine is good stock or with FI

 

You make a swap like that sound so easy. He'll spend upwards of probably $10k if not more for something like that. A lot of fab work would need to be done. New trans or some crazy adapters, etc. etc...

 

Here's my input... It really depends on how good and how much time you and your uncle or w/e spend on it.

There are two ways to get High HP. High torque throughout a mild RPM range, or High Revs.

High torque generally comes from a large stroke, a large intake plenum and high volume, and a long. mildly sized motor. This is where everyone takes about midrange power. Torque and horsepower match up at 5252 RPM, so you would need to hit at least 300-350 TQ before then or close. Look at how most Small block chevy V-8s due on a dyno.(more Tq then HP unless its built)

Now, to get the High RPMS....well this is where things get complicated. It is easy to make HP here once you get the motor to hold the RPMS(RX7 and RX8, for example, plus any indy Car).

The way you were talking was RPM route. The things necessary to do on a 2az-fe for this RPM Range:

Simple stuff: High lift and duration cam shaft, full VVT-i control, high(i mean high) flow intake and exhaust system (talking better the MMW headers, and a custom, possibly multi-valve body intake) Also some strong, lighter valves, valve springs, retainers(titanium range),

Hard, but necessary stuff:
Befriend a machine shop. These guys know there shaz.

You will HAVE to bore the motor as much as possible. REASON the Tc has more stroke then bore, leading to a motor that generally creates more or equal torque depending on setup. This will not rev fast. Makes our motor an awesome street motor...crappy race one)

You will also need a machinist to check everything to assemble the motor....down to .001". As mentioned before, extremely light pistons, light rods, and even a lighter crank(forged as well) will all aid in the process.

Consider some polish like work on the areas that can be reached regarding the oil and watering regions.

Headwork-This is Critical. Here needs some thought, a LOT of time, and some experience. The head needs an extremely smooth, efficient flow path. If you decide to do this yourself, i can not stress enough to read about it. Porting is a long thought out process. Polishing doesn't make a huge difference. Not sure how many ppl on this board have PNP'd anything, but let me tell you doing it to a set of chevy Iron's was not fun....

Now that I wrote a book...High HP N/A in a Tc is not easy, but do able. The stuff listed here is just block stuff, let alone tuning stuff.

If you have anymore Questions, PM me. I'll be glad to try and help with assembly, PnP, or just general thinking around. And i know ppl...

 

^ you cant compare our cars to an rx7 or rx8 they have no pistons to begin with or valves.

 

its a TQ/HP concept...remains true for any engine, be it internal combustion or electric or steam