camcon issues! any one else having them?
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Scikotics
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From: Tulsa OK
camcon issues! any one else having them?
Well, I had my mechanic hook up my camcon vvti controller and it ran fine for a couple of days. my engine light came on so I brought it back in for him to check out. We didn't find any issues. After 2 days of having the engine light on my car would putt and not run well at all in any gear. I unhooked the camcon wiring back to stock and it still did the same thing. I brought it back in. We found out my 02 sensor went bad. I replaced this and the engine light went off. We did not hook the camcon back up and the car runs fine. Even better than before (I guess the o2sensor) After running for a couple of days I tried to hook the camcon back up. instantly my engine light comes on and the car runs like !@#!. I unhook it and put back to stock and everything is fine. I run for a couple of days then my engine light comes on!!!!!
Man i'm frustrated!!!! We have checked the wiring with power enterprises and they confirm we hooked it up right...........
Any help? suggestions?
Man i'm frustrated!!!! We have checked the wiring with power enterprises and they confirm we hooked it up right...........
Any help? suggestions?
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Scikotics
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From: Tulsa OK
Yeah but i have replaced it. My mechanic is going to look at it again. but if he can't figure it out i guess i'm going to sell it. I don't think toyota will help considering it is aftermarket and with everything else i have done
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Scikotics
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From: Tulsa OK
Originally Posted by ScottsdaleTC
I have a camcon and it works great, no CEL. What mods do you have on the car for intake and exhaust? Also what settings do you have the timing at and the A/F. I need the increments listed.
I have the following mods: TRD exhaust, K&N cold air, and DC sports header.
settings are as follows:
cam
2000 -10
2500 -5
3000 10
3500 10
4000 10
4500 -5
5000 -5
5500 -12
6000 -12
6500 -12
7000 -12
afr
0-2000 0
2500 3
3000 3
3500 3
4000 4
4500 1
5000-7000 -0
I have adjusted these from all 0 to this and then back down. It runs bad when the controller is not even on but just plugged in to the ecu. once i put it back to stock it performs fine. I hope you can help. thanks in advance.
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U need to somehow bypass that O2 sensor... My guess is perhaps a new ECU? The stock ECU in my opinion is probably wanting to keep ur car emissions safe which is being bypassed by it.
Anyways driving with the engine light on is never going to run good (it defaults it into a safemode).
Anyways driving with the engine light on is never going to run good (it defaults it into a safemode).
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The first thing is turn all the settings back to zero or turn the camcon off. You should not run it with the unit unplugged from the harness.
The settings you have are for your TC? With your modifications, altitude and temperature where you live? I’m guessing not since it appears they are the same ones for my TC.
These settings are for a TC:
• Without a CAI, your pulling in more air efficiently than mine, you’re A/F numbers should be lower.
• I’m at 2100 feet altitude as the air is thinner, I’m not sure what the altitude is in Oklahoma. As you get closer to sea level the air density is higher, you’re A/F should be lower.
• Temperature, mine was done in 103 to 105 degrees, the air is very thin. If your ambient temperature is lower in Oklahoma, even 5 degrees can make a huge difference. Lower temperatures make the air density thicker, you’re a/F setting should be lower.
• Humidity, we have about 5% to 15%, most states have 50% to as high as 90% humidity, this makes a huge difference in air density.
Anytime that a piggy back ECU will be used you MUST have it tuned on a Dyno. Generally a good tuner will charge abut $150 to tune it. It is imperative that if you did not have this done you must do so. I will be taking mine back in and having it retuned for cooler temperatures and higher humidity.
I’m not an expert when it comes to tuning an ECU, if you have a local tuner shop you should be using them. If you don’t have one you need to find one as they will have the expertise, tools and hardware (dyno) to make your investment work.
I looked at your car domain profile and you have Nitrous? I have no clue how nitro will affect the tuning of the engine. Or it’s affect on the O2 sensor. If you get the camcon tuned it will make a huge difference, it is worth the money and time.
The settings you have are for your TC? With your modifications, altitude and temperature where you live? I’m guessing not since it appears they are the same ones for my TC.
These settings are for a TC:
• Without a CAI, your pulling in more air efficiently than mine, you’re A/F numbers should be lower.
• I’m at 2100 feet altitude as the air is thinner, I’m not sure what the altitude is in Oklahoma. As you get closer to sea level the air density is higher, you’re A/F should be lower.
• Temperature, mine was done in 103 to 105 degrees, the air is very thin. If your ambient temperature is lower in Oklahoma, even 5 degrees can make a huge difference. Lower temperatures make the air density thicker, you’re a/F setting should be lower.
• Humidity, we have about 5% to 15%, most states have 50% to as high as 90% humidity, this makes a huge difference in air density.
Anytime that a piggy back ECU will be used you MUST have it tuned on a Dyno. Generally a good tuner will charge abut $150 to tune it. It is imperative that if you did not have this done you must do so. I will be taking mine back in and having it retuned for cooler temperatures and higher humidity.
I’m not an expert when it comes to tuning an ECU, if you have a local tuner shop you should be using them. If you don’t have one you need to find one as they will have the expertise, tools and hardware (dyno) to make your investment work.
I looked at your car domain profile and you have Nitrous? I have no clue how nitro will affect the tuning of the engine. Or it’s affect on the O2 sensor. If you get the camcon tuned it will make a huge difference, it is worth the money and time.
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Montgomeryville PA 18974
exactly
Originally Posted by ScottsdaleTC
The first thing is turn all the settings back to zero or turn the camcon off. You should not run it with the unit unplugged from the harness.
The settings you have are for your TC? With your modifications, altitude and temperature where you live? I’m guessing not since it appears they are the same ones for my TC.
These settings are for a TC:
• Without a CAI, your pulling in more air efficiently than mine, you’re A/F numbers should be lower.
• I’m at 2100 feet altitude as the air is thinner, I’m not sure what the altitude is in Oklahoma. As you get closer to sea level the air density is higher, you’re A/F should be lower.
• Temperature, mine was done in 103 to 105 degrees, the air is very thin. If your ambient temperature is lower in Oklahoma, even 5 degrees can make a huge difference. Lower temperatures make the air density thicker, you’re a/F setting should be lower.
• Humidity, we have about 5% to 15%, most states have 50% to as high as 90% humidity, this makes a huge difference in air density.
Anytime that a piggy back ECU will be used you MUST have it tuned on a Dyno. Generally a good tuner will charge abut $150 to tune it. It is imperative that if you did not have this done you must do so. I will be taking mine back in and having it retuned for cooler temperatures and higher humidity.
I’m not an expert when it comes to tuning an ECU, if you have a local tuner shop you should be using them. If you don’t have one you need to find one as they will have the expertise, tools and hardware (dyno) to make your investment work.
I looked at your car domain profile and you have Nitrous? I have no clue how nitro will affect the tuning of the engine. Or it’s affect on the O2 sensor. If you get the camcon tuned it will make a huge difference, it is worth the money and time.
The settings you have are for your TC? With your modifications, altitude and temperature where you live? I’m guessing not since it appears they are the same ones for my TC.
These settings are for a TC:
• Without a CAI, your pulling in more air efficiently than mine, you’re A/F numbers should be lower.
• I’m at 2100 feet altitude as the air is thinner, I’m not sure what the altitude is in Oklahoma. As you get closer to sea level the air density is higher, you’re A/F should be lower.
• Temperature, mine was done in 103 to 105 degrees, the air is very thin. If your ambient temperature is lower in Oklahoma, even 5 degrees can make a huge difference. Lower temperatures make the air density thicker, you’re a/F setting should be lower.
• Humidity, we have about 5% to 15%, most states have 50% to as high as 90% humidity, this makes a huge difference in air density.
Anytime that a piggy back ECU will be used you MUST have it tuned on a Dyno. Generally a good tuner will charge abut $150 to tune it. It is imperative that if you did not have this done you must do so. I will be taking mine back in and having it retuned for cooler temperatures and higher humidity.
I’m not an expert when it comes to tuning an ECU, if you have a local tuner shop you should be using them. If you don’t have one you need to find one as they will have the expertise, tools and hardware (dyno) to make your investment work.
I looked at your car domain profile and you have Nitrous? I have no clue how nitro will affect the tuning of the engine. Or it’s affect on the O2 sensor. If you get the camcon tuned it will make a huge difference, it is worth the money and time.
Thread Starter
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Scikotics
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 321
From: Tulsa OK
With the camcon turned off and running stock the car performs bad when the wires are hooked up. The second you unplug the camcon from the ecu the car runs fine. It is not the settings. The car does run the same with the camcon wired and on. I think the unit might be bad.
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Posts: 98
From: Montgomeryville PA 18974
problems
The unit should always be on, there will be a power draw if it is hooked up and it will not be compensated for with the unit off. It will mess up voltages. Once it is hooked up it should always be on with the car.
What do you mean by
It runs the same as in bad with the camcon hooked up and on or like stock?
What do you mean by
The car does run the same with the camcon wired and on.
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Scikotics
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From: Tulsa OK
Let me try to explain this better.
-The Camcon instructions say that if you want the car to run stock you simply turn the Camcon off and you should be back to stock.
-With the Camcon hooked up to the ECU and turned on the car runs like crap. It does this with tuning different settings.
-With the Camcon hooked up to the ECU and turned off the car runs like crap.
-With the Camcon not hooked up to the ECU and stock wiring is put back the car runs great.
-I'm not running the nos just the mods: DC sports header, K&N CAI, and TRD exhaust.
-Power enterprises says that my wiring is hooked up correctly
I hope this explains it better. I'm looking for a dyno in my area early next week. I have talked to a couple of scion tc owners that have not had a dyno and tuned it by themselves and not had any issues. I have tried some different settings and nothing helps. hopefully the dyno idea works.
-The Camcon instructions say that if you want the car to run stock you simply turn the Camcon off and you should be back to stock.
-With the Camcon hooked up to the ECU and turned on the car runs like crap. It does this with tuning different settings.
-With the Camcon hooked up to the ECU and turned off the car runs like crap.
-With the Camcon not hooked up to the ECU and stock wiring is put back the car runs great.
-I'm not running the nos just the mods: DC sports header, K&N CAI, and TRD exhaust.
-Power enterprises says that my wiring is hooked up correctly
I hope this explains it better. I'm looking for a dyno in my area early next week. I have talked to a couple of scion tc owners that have not had a dyno and tuned it by themselves and not had any issues. I have tried some different settings and nothing helps. hopefully the dyno idea works.
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Turn the comacon on
Change all the settings for the cam and A/F settings all to zero.
Unplug the battery for a good hour to reset the ECU on the car.
Go drive the car and let the factory ECU reset the system.
Turn the camcon back on and the car should run fine as it is a bypass for now. If you are still having an issue after resting the ECU and the camcon it could possible have an issue with it or damaged.
Change all the settings for the cam and A/F settings all to zero.
Unplug the battery for a good hour to reset the ECU on the car.
Go drive the car and let the factory ECU reset the system.
Turn the camcon back on and the car should run fine as it is a bypass for now. If you are still having an issue after resting the ECU and the camcon it could possible have an issue with it or damaged.
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From: Gone
Did anybody actually read the service manual or is this 1 hour thing just guessing? BTW, disconnecting the battery jacks up everything. You can reset the ECM by pulling two fuses in the fuse box for one minute.
Page 5-45 FSM Volume One - Clear DTC (Without using a hand-held tester or OBDII scan tool)
(a) Perform either of the two following operations.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable for more than one minute.
(2) Remove the EFI and ETCS fuses from the Relay Block (R/B) located inside the engine compartment for more than 1 minute.
Pulling the fuses means not losing your windows, sunroof, and trip meters, or resetting any of the other custom features you've changed (like the seat belt reminder - I HATE that thing).
Page 5-45 FSM Volume One - Clear DTC (Without using a hand-held tester or OBDII scan tool)
(a) Perform either of the two following operations.
(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable for more than one minute.
(2) Remove the EFI and ETCS fuses from the Relay Block (R/B) located inside the engine compartment for more than 1 minute.
Pulling the fuses means not losing your windows, sunroof, and trip meters, or resetting any of the other custom features you've changed (like the seat belt reminder - I HATE that thing).
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A quick disconnect or pulling the fuses may work, in this case it may not. I am in the electronics industry and when is comes to devices that store voltage discharge times can be an issue. He may not be getting a complete reset from the camcon not the TC. We need to make sure that the system is powered down for a period of time making sure that all devices are drained forcing them to reset. All I want to do is help him get his camcon back to zero and the TC running until he can get it looked at.
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Sure, but you can examine the values stored in the camcon. You can't see diddly from the ECM unless you note the Vf before and after the reset. These instructions are what Toyco techs will do if they don't have the magic Toyco handheld to reset the codes and learned values, so if it doesn't work, there is surely something wrong with the ECM.
There's another issue here too. It's possible there is a wiring fault with the camcon. Not miswired, but either an intermittent connection, or a faulty power or ground source. Both of these are excellent arguments for buying a harness extension and hacking it up instead of hacking your OEM harness to splice in some piggyback gizmo. It also saves you tremendous grief when you are returning for warranty service and you've removed the extenstion and piggybacks, replaced the original connectors in the ECM and everything appears unmolested from the technician's view.
If you have managed to damage a wire in the OEM harness, it's a lot harder to fix than replacing a harness extension, and it's incredibly easier to wire a piggyback into the extension in the comfort of your favorite chair at the workbench instead of being all twisted up and digging around under the dash trying to accurately identify, splice, and tap into those tiny ECM wires. But, hey, that's just my opinion.
There's another issue here too. It's possible there is a wiring fault with the camcon. Not miswired, but either an intermittent connection, or a faulty power or ground source. Both of these are excellent arguments for buying a harness extension and hacking it up instead of hacking your OEM harness to splice in some piggyback gizmo. It also saves you tremendous grief when you are returning for warranty service and you've removed the extenstion and piggybacks, replaced the original connectors in the ECM and everything appears unmolested from the technician's view.
If you have managed to damage a wire in the OEM harness, it's a lot harder to fix than replacing a harness extension, and it's incredibly easier to wire a piggyback into the extension in the comfort of your favorite chair at the workbench instead of being all twisted up and digging around under the dash trying to accurately identify, splice, and tap into those tiny ECM wires. But, hey, that's just my opinion.
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Agreed, get everything reset and then see if the Camcon will work at zero settings in the ON position. If the TC runs poorly the Camcon is faulty, if it runs fine then he may not have an issue electronically just needing a good tuning.
The piggy backs are great and now that ZPI just released them I am sooooooo happy. To late for me but I will be getting one of the piggybacks, at 6’3” my years in the circus as a contortionist comes in handy.
The piggy backs are great and now that ZPI just released them I am sooooooo happy. To late for me but I will be getting one of the piggybacks, at 6’3” my years in the circus as a contortionist comes in handy.
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Scikotics
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From: Tulsa OK
Originally Posted by ScottsdaleTC
Agreed, get everything reset and then see if the Camcon will work at zero settings in the ON position. If the TC runs poorly the Camcon is faulty, if it runs fine then he may not have an issue electronically just needing a good tuning.
The piggy backs are great and now that ZPI just released them I am sooooooo happy. To late for me but I will be getting one of the piggybacks, at 6’3” my years in the circus as a contortionist comes in handy.
The piggy backs are great and now that ZPI just released them I am sooooooo happy. To late for me but I will be getting one of the piggybacks, at 6’3” my years in the circus as a contortionist comes in handy.
Well scottsdaletc thanks for the info!!! i did what you said and the car is running great. I ran it with the camcon on and off after doing what you said and the car runs great! I'm not going to mess with the nos until i can get it to dyno. I think i found a local place that knows someone.... Again thanks.... how much do i owe you?
