First tune up
Thanks for all the great responses. But just curious, there is no real way to know if the coolant is bad is there? As in does the darker the red means its wearing out and bright red or pink means its fine? Or is coolant one of those fluids where it no longer adequately protects,but yet it still looks like it just like it came straight from a fresh bottle. Sorry if my question sounds dumb, but I really don't know much about coolant.
I use SEAFOAM. this is the good stuff, it cleans out your engine causing smoother driving and idle. i use 2 cans of it before and after my oil (mobil1) change.
unlike other fuel injector cleaners that is mixed with several chemicals, SEAFOAM is 100% petroleum which is the main fast active ingredient to clean everything. also all mechanics use it too; youll spend 60 bucks on a fuelsystemclean at the shop and all they do is use seafoam on their machines.
SEAFOAM cleans everything
* Cleans injectors
* Adds lubricity
* Anti-gel
* Cleans crankcase
* Restores power
* Removes moisture
* Cleans carbon
* Stabilizes fuel
* Diesel fuel conditioner
* Stabilizes fuel
* Cleans carburetor
* Cleans carbon
* Removes moisture
* Assures fast starts
* Frees sticky rings
* Restores power
* Upper cylinder lube
* Smooths rough idle
i recommend seafoam to everyone!
unlike other fuel injector cleaners that is mixed with several chemicals, SEAFOAM is 100% petroleum which is the main fast active ingredient to clean everything. also all mechanics use it too; youll spend 60 bucks on a fuelsystemclean at the shop and all they do is use seafoam on their machines.
SEAFOAM cleans everything
* Cleans injectors
* Adds lubricity
* Anti-gel
* Cleans crankcase
* Restores power
* Removes moisture
* Cleans carbon
* Stabilizes fuel
* Diesel fuel conditioner
* Stabilizes fuel
* Cleans carburetor
* Cleans carbon
* Removes moisture
* Assures fast starts
* Frees sticky rings
* Restores power
* Upper cylinder lube
* Smooths rough idle
i recommend seafoam to everyone!
I still prefere BG44K. I know a lot of shops that will only use it, and have used it for quite a while. I think though you still have to get it through a shop that sells it though. That stuff has amazed me since the first time I used it.
Seafoam is pretty good stuff. Makes one hell of a cloud though if you run it through the vac system while it is running, then shut it off and let it sit. That first restart is poisonous to the community :D
I just hit 30,045 today, got to do the tune up this weekend. Harr Toyota in Worcester, MA where I bought it charges $325 for the 30k tune up, is that normal?
Here's the list of what it covers:
-Change oil and filer
-Install MOC Premium Engine Protection
-Check/top off transmission, brkae and power steering and washer fluids
-Check and adjust tire pressures
-Rotate tires
-Check operation of all lights, horn and wipers
-Check exhaust system
-Inspect all hoeses, belts and filters
-Inspect suspension and steering systems
-Inspect breaks (including cleaning, and adjust rear brakes)
-Repack rear wear bearing
-Check cooling system operation
-Flush cooling system
-Replace non-platinum spark plugs
-check air conditioner operation
-clean and tighten battery terminals
-replace fuel filter (when applicable)
-replace PCV valve
-inspect distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires
-Check emissions system
-Set engine specifications
-Install MOC Fuel System Cleaner
Also recommended at this time:
-4 wheel alignment......$89.95
-4 wheel balance.........$59.90
-Fuel system cleaning.$89.95
I should be able to do most of this myself right with the manuel? I'm not sure where to find the PCV valve is though.....maybe I'll pick up some BG44k or seafoam.....
Here's the list of what it covers:
-Change oil and filer
-Install MOC Premium Engine Protection
-Check/top off transmission, brkae and power steering and washer fluids
-Check and adjust tire pressures
-Rotate tires
-Check operation of all lights, horn and wipers
-Check exhaust system
-Inspect all hoeses, belts and filters
-Inspect suspension and steering systems
-Inspect breaks (including cleaning, and adjust rear brakes)
-Repack rear wear bearing
-Check cooling system operation
-Flush cooling system
-Replace non-platinum spark plugs
-check air conditioner operation
-clean and tighten battery terminals
-replace fuel filter (when applicable)
-replace PCV valve
-inspect distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires
-Check emissions system
-Set engine specifications
-Install MOC Fuel System Cleaner
Also recommended at this time:
-4 wheel alignment......$89.95
-4 wheel balance.........$59.90
-Fuel system cleaning.$89.95
I should be able to do most of this myself right with the manuel? I'm not sure where to find the PCV valve is though.....maybe I'll pick up some BG44k or seafoam.....
-Change oil and filer - $25 dollar job at most
-Install MOC Premium Engine Protection Not sure completely, but most likely and additive you dont need in a well maintained engine, or pouring a $10 bottle of cleaner in the tank
-Check/top off transmission, brake and power steering and washer fluids[ If you have no leak.. a 5 min job and most likely no fluid added. Something you normally would check yourself
-Check and adjust tire pressures Again, something you can simply (and should) check yourself. 5 min and no materials
-Rotate tires 10 min on a lift
-Check operation of all lights, horn and wipers Heh.. they turn them on and look at them
-Check exhaust system Visual inspection most likely
-Inspect all hoeses, belts and filters Again, easy visual inspection
-Inspect suspension and steering systems Check for play and noises. Quick drive and inspection
-Inspect breaks (including cleaning, and adjust rear brakes) Visually inspect while they already have the wheels off. Disc brakes, so no reason to clean anything or adjust anything except MAYBE the park brake
-Repack rear wear bearing Most likely not done
-Check cooling system operation Start car.. let run.. thats it.
-Flush cooling system Open drain, run clean water through it while running to flush, add coolant.
-Replace non-platinum spark plugs Not done, we have iridium plugs that dont get replaced for about 120k
-check air conditioner operation Start, turn on AC, make sure it is cooling
-clean and tighten battery terminals5 min tops
-replace fuel filter (when applicable) In the tank Meaning they most likely left it alone[
-replace PCV valve Around a $5 part most likely, 5 min replacement[
-inspect distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires Electronic ignition, no distributor. Coil on plug ignition so they did nothing but look at it if anything.
-Check emissions system Not sure how they checked it. Possibly stuck a probe in the pipe. Quick check
-Set engine specifications ?? Most likely nothing[
-Install MOC Fuel System Cleaner[Additive, pour in
Also recommended at this time:
-4 wheel alignment......$89.95
-4 wheel balance.........$59.90
-Fuel system cleaning.$89.95
Dont do the fuel system cleaning. A good cleaner (which they said they are doing in the above anyway) is all you need if anything at all. BG44k is around $15 a can.
How are your tires wearing? If they wear nice and even, skip the alignment unless you have reason to believe you need it. Are your tires out of balance? If not, then absolutely no reason at all to do that.
Dealerships make money selling you service you dont need most of the time, and then charging you a ton of labor to do it. For example, out of the items they actually do from the above, they probably have your car for about an hour and spend less than $50 in parts. Hardly worth over $300. Then they are reccomending you doing the last three things that are not needed unless you have an issue.
Here is a good example, my saturn has never had an alignment.. ever, in 169000 miles. Doesnt need one. Drives and wears perfectly. If your tires are out of balance, you will know it. And before I hear the comment that for some reason I begin hearing lately about alignment (probably propogated by a shop trying to make money), camber DOES cause uneven wear. Some shops try to tell you it can be off without causing wear.. but hurts the mileage, performance, etc. Untrue.
So yes, do the parts you need yourself and save yourself the money. The dealer tried to hit me for over 200 for the 15k service on my last free oil change (the only reason I would ever take my car anywhere.. free oil change). They listed all the things I "needed".. when I crossed 90% of the list off cause it did not apply to my car.. and they realized I knew what I was talking about, the guy stopped talking, handed my keys and said goodbye.
-Install MOC Premium Engine Protection Not sure completely, but most likely and additive you dont need in a well maintained engine, or pouring a $10 bottle of cleaner in the tank
-Check/top off transmission, brake and power steering and washer fluids[ If you have no leak.. a 5 min job and most likely no fluid added. Something you normally would check yourself
-Check and adjust tire pressures Again, something you can simply (and should) check yourself. 5 min and no materials
-Rotate tires 10 min on a lift
-Check operation of all lights, horn and wipers Heh.. they turn them on and look at them
-Check exhaust system Visual inspection most likely
-Inspect all hoeses, belts and filters Again, easy visual inspection
-Inspect suspension and steering systems Check for play and noises. Quick drive and inspection
-Inspect breaks (including cleaning, and adjust rear brakes) Visually inspect while they already have the wheels off. Disc brakes, so no reason to clean anything or adjust anything except MAYBE the park brake
-Repack rear wear bearing Most likely not done
-Check cooling system operation Start car.. let run.. thats it.
-Flush cooling system Open drain, run clean water through it while running to flush, add coolant.
-Replace non-platinum spark plugs Not done, we have iridium plugs that dont get replaced for about 120k
-check air conditioner operation Start, turn on AC, make sure it is cooling
-clean and tighten battery terminals5 min tops
-replace fuel filter (when applicable) In the tank Meaning they most likely left it alone[
-replace PCV valve Around a $5 part most likely, 5 min replacement[
-inspect distributor cap, rotor, ignition wires Electronic ignition, no distributor. Coil on plug ignition so they did nothing but look at it if anything.
-Check emissions system Not sure how they checked it. Possibly stuck a probe in the pipe. Quick check
-Set engine specifications ?? Most likely nothing[
-Install MOC Fuel System Cleaner[Additive, pour in
Also recommended at this time:
-4 wheel alignment......$89.95
-4 wheel balance.........$59.90
-Fuel system cleaning.$89.95
Dont do the fuel system cleaning. A good cleaner (which they said they are doing in the above anyway) is all you need if anything at all. BG44k is around $15 a can.
How are your tires wearing? If they wear nice and even, skip the alignment unless you have reason to believe you need it. Are your tires out of balance? If not, then absolutely no reason at all to do that.
Dealerships make money selling you service you dont need most of the time, and then charging you a ton of labor to do it. For example, out of the items they actually do from the above, they probably have your car for about an hour and spend less than $50 in parts. Hardly worth over $300. Then they are reccomending you doing the last three things that are not needed unless you have an issue.
Here is a good example, my saturn has never had an alignment.. ever, in 169000 miles. Doesnt need one. Drives and wears perfectly. If your tires are out of balance, you will know it. And before I hear the comment that for some reason I begin hearing lately about alignment (probably propogated by a shop trying to make money), camber DOES cause uneven wear. Some shops try to tell you it can be off without causing wear.. but hurts the mileage, performance, etc. Untrue.
So yes, do the parts you need yourself and save yourself the money. The dealer tried to hit me for over 200 for the 15k service on my last free oil change (the only reason I would ever take my car anywhere.. free oil change). They listed all the things I "needed".. when I crossed 90% of the list off cause it did not apply to my car.. and they realized I knew what I was talking about, the guy stopped talking, handed my keys and said goodbye.
I was told that too, but I was also told not to put too much faith in it, and to change it out every 30k just to error on the side of caution.... I'm just not familiar with an easy way to do it
if you are replacing the tranny cooler, do you need to flush or drain the fluid?
i'd assume so... once you drain it, can you just pour in some new synthetic fluid too? or should you flush out the lines completely?
i'd assume so... once you drain it, can you just pour in some new synthetic fluid too? or should you flush out the lines completely?
Originally Posted by yamaha16bw
I just hit 30k as well. How do you change the tranny fluid?
I know this is off the topic and a little late as well, but i couldn't help it. You have a Turbonetics Kit on your tC and you don't know how to change the gear box oil. Sorry, i just thought that was pretty funny.
Wow, this post helps a lot. Won't be buying dealer service until I need a tranny flush. Could someone like engifineer post a list of your recommended changes and such for 15k and 30k? I think that would be really helpful.
Fuel System/Deposit Cleaner can be done with Seafoam Deep Creep for around $7 for 2 treatments. Awesome stuff, easy to use. Spray half a can in a vac hose while car is running, but don't let it stall. Turn car off, let it sit for an hour. Then drive somewhere where the people won't mind the billowing smoke!
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PPC: Engine / Drivetrain
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Sep 23, 2015 08:32 PM








