Well today i went to get the bracket that usually snaps when you have a cold air intake welded. And after getting it welded, i had to gas it to start my car and the CEL was on. I thought the MAF was fried due to grounding so I bought a new one for $190 and put it on. It still has the same problem (need to gas it to turn it on and if i dont rev it, it stalls out). Can it be that the ECU is fried? If it is partially fried can i put a piggy back to fix it? Please people with knowledge HELP

 

Did u reset the ECU after installing the new maf?

 

what hawgs74 said.. that should fix the problem.

If the reason is caused by your ECU, I'm selling an extra ECU I have that was taken out of an '07 wrecked tC with approx. 800+ miles on it. It's basically new. And I'm letting it go for $50 shipped.

 

yea i did reset the ecu. I have a 2006 MT though. I dont think that ECU would work.

 

would my car even be able to start up if the ecu is fried?

 

No.

1. Check your ignition fuse in the fuse box under the hood.
2. Look on the back of your valve cover for a vacuum hose that goes to the intake manifold. Make sure that hose is connected at both ends. With my current state of untune on my turbo kit, that hose pops off every once in a while and results in the exact same problem you describe.

If neither of those are the problem, let me know.

 

That's not an easy swap. key Codes are imprinted in each other. Talk to Garage1217 for the trick he sells to reprogram it.

 

did you take out the bracket and had them weld it or did you leave the car, my thought if left maybe tried welding without disconecting the battery

 

I left the bracket on the car and watched as he was welding it. So it was kinda my fault also for not disconnecting the (-) terminal of the battery.

And plus I appreciate everyones help and I will try those steps that jaxtcracer has put out.

Thanks and i will update.

 

Checked the hose it was on fine, and the fuse was still good. Jax what else should i check?

 

i have a dezod s1 turbo kit and i kinda have the same problem aslo where i cold start and wont hold idle and dies. i have too rev a little until my engine warms up until it holds idle. definitley watching this thread

 

That intake mounting setup is 100% crap design to begin with. If it broke where I think it did, the only way to take it off to weld it would have been to remove the motor mount, since that bracket is made to it.

But the main question that has not been asked so for is what is the code? If you have a CEL, pull the code first.

And yes, you can permanently damage the ECU, and still have the car start and run.

 

that sounds like a tuning issue

 

yea thats wat i think also been trying too contact my tuner for the past 2 days and they havent called me back yet

 

when my bracket broke i built a holding wall with foil paper and filled it with jb weld let dry romove foil and BAMMN worked perfect to this day.

 

what kind of engine management are you running? do you have your fuel map saved to your laptop? if so, you could try a couple other maps and compare to see if it fixes the problem.

 

I dont have the diagnostic tool (code reader) and i'm kinda scared of driving it to autozone so they would be able to find out what code it is for the CEL. But since i put the new MAF and reset the connection to the battery the CEL is not on. I will have AAA take it to a repair shop so they can tell me which code it was running. Would they be able to detect a code even though its not on right now?

And say the ECU was damaged, can i put a unichip on and tune it to fix that problem?

 

until you get a code that will piont you to the system that is not responding everything is a shot in the dark.
If you got a code I could tell you what to test, how to test it, what the computer is looking for, and where to go so you can pinpoint the problem without replacing unnessacary parts.

 

Not sure if you got this issue fixed or not, but it sounds like a similar problem I had. When adding a short ram intake to my car last summer, I accidentally tapped the positive battery terminal with the wrench. Sparked, but I didn't think anything of it. When I went to start my car, I got similar symptoms. Changed the MAF and it didn't help.

Turns out the throttle body is very sensitive to sparks as well. The spark travelled down the SRI and grounded out in the throttle body. Thank goodness it didn't blow the throttle body servo and only blew a fuse. Once a new fuse was put in, the car started up like new.

 

That is a much better idea than welding it IMO since you dont have to remove it to do it right. JBWeld or a good epoxy is a cheap and less intrusive way in this case.