Getting my engine ported and polished next weekend
yup thats right also getting my 18" konig FreeFall (High - Gloss Black)
link here http://www.konigwheels.com/catalog_p...ID=1&ss_id=362
tell me what ya think of that
link here http://www.konigwheels.com/catalog_p...ID=1&ss_id=362
tell me what ya think of that
im not too sure yet im going to go over that with the guy who is doing it for me because we have a lotta future plans for the car so we are planning ahead aswell. ill keep you updated though!
Originally Posted by WowGuySRT
i like Texas...low 13's at 104 SRT GONNA GIVE IT TO YA....
Originally Posted by CreativeCompacts
you are correct, the heads are very restrictive on the tC

i mean you are ripping the head off anyways, why not correct a serious problem while it's off. you will save alot of time and money in the long run and will reap huge benefits!
ZPIracing says there heads are ready now this is what they sent me
Originally Posted by ZPIracing
the head packages are ready now. We have three intake manifolds done but they are not ready for the genral public yet.
Thanks for the intrest check back awesome
Thanks for the intrest check back awesome
Question, in all seriousness and not meaning any disrespect but.
Why are you spending the time and money to port the head then putting on heavy wheels that will probably negate every bit of gain you get from the head work?
Totally serious about this, please think if over, light wheels will increase your performance in all catagories, porting only will in power output and not by much if not done properly.
Sincerly,
Rick
Why are you spending the time and money to port the head then putting on heavy wheels that will probably negate every bit of gain you get from the head work?
Totally serious about this, please think if over, light wheels will increase your performance in all catagories, porting only will in power output and not by much if not done properly.
Sincerly,
Rick
Originally Posted by SupaWhiteTc
I am pretty sure that a modded TC with the S/C and Front Mount would hand it to a SRT-4.
Originally Posted by raamaudio
Question, in all seriousness and not meaning any disrespect but.
Why are you spending the time and money to port the head then putting on heavy wheels that will probably negate every bit of gain you get from the head work?
Totally serious about this, please think if over, light wheels will increase your performance in all catagories, porting only will in power output and not by much if not done properly.
Sincerly,
Rick
Why are you spending the time and money to port the head then putting on heavy wheels that will probably negate every bit of gain you get from the head work?
Totally serious about this, please think if over, light wheels will increase your performance in all catagories, porting only will in power output and not by much if not done properly.
Sincerly,
Rick
but we will all change that soon anyway :D
Originally Posted by raamaudio
Question, in all seriousness and not meaning any disrespect but.
Why are you spending the time and money to port the head then putting on heavy wheels that will probably negate every bit of gain you get from the head work?
Totally serious about this, please think if over, light wheels will increase your performance in all catagories, porting only will in power output and not by much if not done properly.
Sincerly,
Rick
Why are you spending the time and money to port the head then putting on heavy wheels that will probably negate every bit of gain you get from the head work?
Totally serious about this, please think if over, light wheels will increase your performance in all catagories, porting only will in power output and not by much if not done properly.
Sincerly,
Rick
The 18" rims he mentioned are 22lbs but you're getting a smaller tire to maintain the same total wheel diameter. Less rubber = less weight. So the difference is quite minimal if any.
I will agree that lighter wheels are very beneficial but these new tire/wheel combos will weigh barely any more than a stock config, so he'll still see gains from the P&P.
Let me explain a few things to help what I have said make some sense to you.
I have a digital scale, I weighed my stock wheels and tires, 42 lbs, overall not that bad except the tires sucked so I put better ones on the wheels, then they weighed 41 lbs.
If you check the actual tire weights on the few manf websites that give the weights you will see they stay about the same as the diameter of the wheel grows, rarely do they become lighter. I have researched all major brands extensively in my quest for the best overall tire/wheel combinations.
So now he is going from 19 lb wheels( I weighed them as well) to 22.5 lbs wheels and about the same tire weight as before, approx going to around 44.5 lbs per corner. Not bad compared to what alot of guys do but far from optimal.
Another aspect is where the weight is located, further from the center of the wheel meaning you have more in the worst possible place, the inertia you must overcome to stop increases, the leverage on the suspension increases reducing it's effectiveness.
The general effect of more unsprung weight and more leverage combine to cause a very significant degradation of handling, stopping and acceleration as well as causes alot more stress on all parts as well as the chassis.
I am just trying to get some of you guys to think abit more about what you do to your cars to make them "performance cars". My sugestion is to make them into true performance cars or pretenders like most on the streets are. Spend your resources on one aspect and you will have more to show for your efforts, all show or or go, not a mix of both.
Here is an example to think of. I could buy just about any tire and wheel combo I wanted but I carefully checked to find the widest, lightest and strongest wheels that would provide true performance benifits with the least amount of detrimental effects.
I wanted as wide a tire as possible because I will be running alot of power and intend to do quite well racing with it. If I could of found the right package in a 15 or 16" wheel and tire setup I would of gone that way. I settled for 17x8, +35 offset(wider stance, called track width) but really wanted wider wheels, non were available in an offset I deemed satisfactory. The wheels weigh 15.6 lbs each and I have 235/40/17 tires that are very very agressive yet good in the rain as am moving to a rainy climate, they are a bit heavier than I prefer but there just were not many to choose from and none were really less in weight anyway.
Now I have alot of sticky rubber on the ground which I will most certainly need and the combo weighs in at 39 lbs per corner
And I have low weight lug nuts that saved another .5 lbs of unsprung weight per corner. The location of the weight of the 17's is centered more to the middle of the rotational mass and thus has less negative effect on all aspects of performance than the same weight if biased towards the outer diameter of the said mass.
There are tradeoffs in all things, I am giving a fairly extreme example but even somewhere between these extremes there is alot of performance to gain or lose, far more than just a P&P can provide in the grand scheme of things.
If you are going for performance then do not be decieved by the hype and looks crowd, go for real performance throughout the whole project and be rewarded with a fast car that you can do some incredible things in. Resist the temptation to bolt on big body kits, 15 gauges, bobbles and bangles, build a real car instead, add only what you need, take off what you do not need.
Just so you know that I am not full of it, I have done this for many many years with great success. In 2004 I ran a turbo Matrix in Street Mod class in So Cal SCCA autocrosses. It took me a few events to get used to the cars speed and learn FWD and dial in the suspension but by the fifth event the worse I finished was a close third in the rest of the season,. This was against M3's and WRX's and assorted other cars that are supposed to be faster than a Matrix, I was the only FWD in the class. (I would of done even better but we had an 8 time national champ that was insanely fast in our class) A Matrix is not supposed to be competitive but mine was, far more than I ever got it dialed in or learned to drive it as well as I could have done.
(SM class is pretty wide open, turbos, race tires, coilovers, etc, etc, it is one of the fastest street sedan classes)
The only reason I acheived this was due to following the guidlines I have laid out above and doing so as a whole car concept aimed at pure performance, not some here and there and some detrimental "suedo performance" mods in the way.
Of course do what you wish to your own cars, you should, at least take the time to understand what real performance is and decide if that is what you want or just a list of things to brag about that only the uneducated will be impressed with.
I almost hate show cars because most are not even usefull for anything, not even real cars anymore. I do understand the need to market products and get attention but keep that for the marketing department, build a real performance car or show, can't really have both(unless you are truely dedicated and understand that only a few will get it, those are the really cool car people anyway, impress them and you have done something worthy;)
Rick
I have a digital scale, I weighed my stock wheels and tires, 42 lbs, overall not that bad except the tires sucked so I put better ones on the wheels, then they weighed 41 lbs.
If you check the actual tire weights on the few manf websites that give the weights you will see they stay about the same as the diameter of the wheel grows, rarely do they become lighter. I have researched all major brands extensively in my quest for the best overall tire/wheel combinations.
So now he is going from 19 lb wheels( I weighed them as well) to 22.5 lbs wheels and about the same tire weight as before, approx going to around 44.5 lbs per corner. Not bad compared to what alot of guys do but far from optimal.
Another aspect is where the weight is located, further from the center of the wheel meaning you have more in the worst possible place, the inertia you must overcome to stop increases, the leverage on the suspension increases reducing it's effectiveness.
The general effect of more unsprung weight and more leverage combine to cause a very significant degradation of handling, stopping and acceleration as well as causes alot more stress on all parts as well as the chassis.
I am just trying to get some of you guys to think abit more about what you do to your cars to make them "performance cars". My sugestion is to make them into true performance cars or pretenders like most on the streets are. Spend your resources on one aspect and you will have more to show for your efforts, all show or or go, not a mix of both.
Here is an example to think of. I could buy just about any tire and wheel combo I wanted but I carefully checked to find the widest, lightest and strongest wheels that would provide true performance benifits with the least amount of detrimental effects.
I wanted as wide a tire as possible because I will be running alot of power and intend to do quite well racing with it. If I could of found the right package in a 15 or 16" wheel and tire setup I would of gone that way. I settled for 17x8, +35 offset(wider stance, called track width) but really wanted wider wheels, non were available in an offset I deemed satisfactory. The wheels weigh 15.6 lbs each and I have 235/40/17 tires that are very very agressive yet good in the rain as am moving to a rainy climate, they are a bit heavier than I prefer but there just were not many to choose from and none were really less in weight anyway.
Now I have alot of sticky rubber on the ground which I will most certainly need and the combo weighs in at 39 lbs per corner
And I have low weight lug nuts that saved another .5 lbs of unsprung weight per corner. The location of the weight of the 17's is centered more to the middle of the rotational mass and thus has less negative effect on all aspects of performance than the same weight if biased towards the outer diameter of the said mass.There are tradeoffs in all things, I am giving a fairly extreme example but even somewhere between these extremes there is alot of performance to gain or lose, far more than just a P&P can provide in the grand scheme of things.
If you are going for performance then do not be decieved by the hype and looks crowd, go for real performance throughout the whole project and be rewarded with a fast car that you can do some incredible things in. Resist the temptation to bolt on big body kits, 15 gauges, bobbles and bangles, build a real car instead, add only what you need, take off what you do not need.
Just so you know that I am not full of it, I have done this for many many years with great success. In 2004 I ran a turbo Matrix in Street Mod class in So Cal SCCA autocrosses. It took me a few events to get used to the cars speed and learn FWD and dial in the suspension but by the fifth event the worse I finished was a close third in the rest of the season,. This was against M3's and WRX's and assorted other cars that are supposed to be faster than a Matrix, I was the only FWD in the class. (I would of done even better but we had an 8 time national champ that was insanely fast in our class) A Matrix is not supposed to be competitive but mine was, far more than I ever got it dialed in or learned to drive it as well as I could have done.
(SM class is pretty wide open, turbos, race tires, coilovers, etc, etc, it is one of the fastest street sedan classes)
The only reason I acheived this was due to following the guidlines I have laid out above and doing so as a whole car concept aimed at pure performance, not some here and there and some detrimental "suedo performance" mods in the way.
Of course do what you wish to your own cars, you should, at least take the time to understand what real performance is and decide if that is what you want or just a list of things to brag about that only the uneducated will be impressed with.
I almost hate show cars because most are not even usefull for anything, not even real cars anymore. I do understand the need to market products and get attention but keep that for the marketing department, build a real performance car or show, can't really have both(unless you are truely dedicated and understand that only a few will get it, those are the really cool car people anyway, impress them and you have done something worthy;)
Rick







