Header CEL Fix
#41
I ordered (2) 42009 and (1) 42002 and it turns out that each pack comes with 2 anti-fowlers in them, so now I have 2 extra pairs of 42009. If anyone wants, I'll sell it to anyone for $8 shipped via Priority Mail..
#43
Originally Posted by Tc Luis
so will this work on the megan racin header as well? will it also go on the s-pipe/downpipe?
#45
Originally Posted by English
Originally Posted by Tc Luis
so will this work on the megan racin header as well? will it also go on the s-pipe/downpipe?
#47
Originally Posted by Tc Luis
which one do u use, the 42009 or 42002? is there a diff?
#55
Originally Posted by davo345
Originally Posted by DouBLeJ16
I tryed this mod with the megan header and I still have the CEL.
Also, have you reset the ECU? Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery and leave it for 10 minutes. Might as well do this while you re-check all the necessary points of concern. When you're done, fire the car back up and let it idle for 15 minutes to give the computer enough time to check and adjust, and you should be good to go.l
#56
Originally Posted by davo345
Originally Posted by DouBLeJ16
I tryed this mod with the megan header and I still have the CEL.
#59
&$#! CEL
OK, I finally did the CEL fix and it didn't work for me either. This is what I found:
1. The difficulty I had getting the s-pipe O2 sensor off was because the threads on the s-pipe were damaged. This caused the O2 sensor's threads to become stripped. I do not believe that simply attempting to unbolt the O2 sensor could have caused this. It appears that maybe some grit was on the threads of the s-pipe at the factory when the O2 sensor was installed. At least, that's the only theory I can come up with.
2. I cleaned up the s-pipe threads and carefully tightened the O2 sensor into the antifoulers and them onto the s-pipe. I put anti-seize on all the threads, too. I was able to get the O2 sensor + antifoulers tight, but i had to be gentle with it.
3. I did reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for more than 10 minutes. I also let the car idle for 20+ minutes before driving after everything was back together again.
After 41 miles, the CEL was back.
So, here's a few questions...
1. I recall the s-pipe having some kind of screen or grating on at least one end. Am I imagining this? When I disconnected the s-pipe so I could work on removing the O2 sensor, I found that this screen is no longer there.
2. So, I'm on my back with a flashlight peering up into the Megan header. I can see all the way up to where the 4 pipes join to 1. I'm thinking "precat? *what* precat?" Shouldn't I have seen something within the air path which would be a catalyst for emissions? A regular catalytic converter has a mesh-like substance (metal, ceramic, whatever) that the air passes through. I saw nothing like this on my header. This has me puzzled.
3. I'd like to get the engine code and find out exactly what the CEL is trying to say. My tC is at the dealer today getting my first free oil change so I asked about getting the code. I was told it would be an hour's diagnostic labor @ $79! WTF is that all about? It's not going to take an HOUR to get a code from the computer. My only experience with engine computers is with my Miata. There is a driveway "trick" which allows me to connect two pins of the diagnostic connector, causing the check engine light to flash and return the error codes. Plus, Mazda techs can connect to the diagnostic connector and get the codes in a matter of minutes. Isn't the tC the same way, at least for the Scion techs???
I suppose it is possible one of the O2 sensors was damaged, but I didn't drop them or do anything other than set them on the table. I am sure all of the bolts (including the spring loaded ones) are tight and I did make sure to use the little "donut" which sits between the header and s-pipe.
1. The difficulty I had getting the s-pipe O2 sensor off was because the threads on the s-pipe were damaged. This caused the O2 sensor's threads to become stripped. I do not believe that simply attempting to unbolt the O2 sensor could have caused this. It appears that maybe some grit was on the threads of the s-pipe at the factory when the O2 sensor was installed. At least, that's the only theory I can come up with.
2. I cleaned up the s-pipe threads and carefully tightened the O2 sensor into the antifoulers and them onto the s-pipe. I put anti-seize on all the threads, too. I was able to get the O2 sensor + antifoulers tight, but i had to be gentle with it.
3. I did reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for more than 10 minutes. I also let the car idle for 20+ minutes before driving after everything was back together again.
After 41 miles, the CEL was back.
So, here's a few questions...
1. I recall the s-pipe having some kind of screen or grating on at least one end. Am I imagining this? When I disconnected the s-pipe so I could work on removing the O2 sensor, I found that this screen is no longer there.
2. So, I'm on my back with a flashlight peering up into the Megan header. I can see all the way up to where the 4 pipes join to 1. I'm thinking "precat? *what* precat?" Shouldn't I have seen something within the air path which would be a catalyst for emissions? A regular catalytic converter has a mesh-like substance (metal, ceramic, whatever) that the air passes through. I saw nothing like this on my header. This has me puzzled.
3. I'd like to get the engine code and find out exactly what the CEL is trying to say. My tC is at the dealer today getting my first free oil change so I asked about getting the code. I was told it would be an hour's diagnostic labor @ $79! WTF is that all about? It's not going to take an HOUR to get a code from the computer. My only experience with engine computers is with my Miata. There is a driveway "trick" which allows me to connect two pins of the diagnostic connector, causing the check engine light to flash and return the error codes. Plus, Mazda techs can connect to the diagnostic connector and get the codes in a matter of minutes. Isn't the tC the same way, at least for the Scion techs???
I suppose it is possible one of the O2 sensors was damaged, but I didn't drop them or do anything other than set them on the table. I am sure all of the bolts (including the spring loaded ones) are tight and I did make sure to use the little "donut" which sits between the header and s-pipe.
#60
Re: &$#! CEL
Originally Posted by RacerZack
3. I'd like to get the engine code and find out exactly what the CEL is trying to say. My tC is at the dealer today getting my first free oil change so I asked about getting the code. I was told it would be an hour's diagnostic labor @ $79! WTF is that all about? It's not going to take an HOUR to get a code from the computer. My only experience with engine computers is with my Miata. There is a driveway "trick" which allows me to connect two pins of the diagnostic connector, causing the check engine light to flash and return the error codes. Plus, Mazda techs can connect to the diagnostic connector and get the codes in a matter of minutes. Isn't the tC the same way, at least for the Scion techs???
btw, in case anyone is wondering, I've gone about 50 miles since I reset the battery and the CEL hasn't come back yet.