Hehe race gas in an NA auto that recommends 87. It's useless to run any higher octane than 87 until you are boosted or nitrous.

 

Track temperature can affect performance as well as the power your engine can produce. Just weigh the old tires and rims and the new tires and rims and see which are lighter and also check the circumference - smaller is better for drag racing. Definately lower the octane back to regular or plus at most. Also if possible figure out the weight of the vehicle or the weight of all the stock stuff you swapped out for the "high performance" stuff you added to see if you increased the car weight.
At some point the ECU will be adjusting the A/F mixture with the cat missing and that can affect the power levels of the engine too. Maybe a ECU reset is in order.

 

If it is not a loose gas cap could it be a more serious problem?

 

I have to go to class now but after I will check into the ecu reset and also check for any new suggestions. Any help is much appriciated!

 

The MAF (sensor) can get dirty and lead to improper readings thus throwing off your Air to Fuel ratio. Go to Napa, get some Mass Air FLow Sensor cleaner.

Again take the throttle body spacer off. it is not needed.

Nor is the race gas. Higher octane fuel is only needed if you are advancing the timing and/or increasing compression via different pistons, porting, boost, Nitrous, etc to prevent detonation/knocking. 87 burns faster than 93 and is entirely appropriate for your car.

How do you check the spark plugs? You take them out and look at them....
http://www.theultralightplace.com/sparkplugs.htm

I also checked my compression as I may have popped the head gasket from where I had the turbo on my car (don't right now), but this is prolly not necessary for you.

Your O2 sensor could be fouled as well.

How did I figure out it was the brakes? I went through every system that I thought could be causing the issue as well as I could.

The car should at least run what is stock. Were these passes made at the same track? What was the temperature and humidity each day? These two things can vastly affect your time.

W/O any diagnostic gauges i.e. wideband, intake temp gauge, etc it is much harder to determine the problem. not telling you to buy any, just saying

 

Worrd!

 

Hey! I run race gas in my auto!!! lol I ran 108 (I think thats what it was - whatever the highest unleaded sunoco has) and i pulled 0 (full factory advance) timing on 8 psi and i ran .2 faster and 2 mph higher on the top end :D:D:D Gah I wanna go to e85 so i can run more timing daily . But back on topic - dont run race gas in your n/a car it will actually make it worse- i promise - higher octane = harder to burn = better when you want to avoid pre-ignition in a boosted car with further timing advance = worse when you are running n/a with a car that already has a really safe timing curve and dont have to worry about pre-ign. Go back to 87 i promise the car will actually run better - as for your other mods - dont know what to tell you except ditch the tbs - also did you weigh your car before and after? Most tracks have a scale at the end of the track... Mines sitting around 3350 lol - thats with my fat ___ in it and full sound system As for the crank pulley its a heated discussion technically you should see a small gain from it - many say it improves throttle response - but on the flip side theres a possibility of it doing long term damage to the motor. I wont pick one way or the other - ive never personally seen said damage so i cant testify one way or another. Also an important factor most are leaving out, what was the temp on the first run and the second? Itll make a big diff - also I hate to say it, but its something with your setup, highly doubt its driver error - i dont see driver error in an auto being able to caus e a 2mph diff in trap speed unless you let off or something

 

Saw a bone stock auto run 16.2 four consecutive times one night... girl driving too

 

Yeah my auto ran a 16.4 consistently with catback exhaust when i first got it - reminder this is at the worst track ever - in the heat of an Oklahoma summer so it was always 90+ on the track when I ran it n/a. Also I dont believe a catback exhaust really does much of anything performance wise so I doubt it made any real diff other than the sound

 

Get new plugs, tune it for 87, and run 87. After that you should be fine. My auto tC ran 15.8 w/ intake, exhaust, and crank pulley...

 

+1 and i am living proof of that....

I remember when i got my tc back in 05 i went to the track and hit a 16.0 flat bone stock(im 5sp)

then I modded the tc (still in 05) with dc header, weapon r cai (i just added a extension to the short ram), injen axle back, and crank pulley....Then i hit a 15.4 and i was so impressed with myself


....well years later and a lot less mods I hit a 15.2 with just a tsudo catback and ebay intake....

so leason is that the driver makes the car go and not the mods....

 

I seriously doubt there is that much too learn with an automatic.

 

Do you have a timeslip for this? Just curious, unless you have some factory-freak tC I'm going to raise the B.S. on this one.

To the original OP:

Your 60 ft. times need to improve. My best is 2.399.

 

ppl how many times do i have to say, tracks are different......stop telling him he sucks at driving. He ran a pretty consistent 60ft but experienced a lower trap speed and higher time. With an auto all he really can help is the 60ft, the rest is the car

 

yup yup