ok here is the problem i have cold air intake , all three pulleys , headers, and a sp2 greddy exasths and now when i tork it up before a race i tork it up to 2200 and then when i go it tacks out and it dont shift and i dong no what it is but when i stay under 2200 it fine please help and tell me what this is

 

Um put it into gear... this is a 5spd correct? Auto maybe? lol

 

^

 

speak english

 

never noticed, but 'tork' ryhmes with dork!

anyway, I think he's talking about taking the car off the line in a drag race. He's 'torking' his ening to 2200 RPM, and the "tacks out" probably means he hitting the limiter. And he needs help figuring out how not to shift.
I dont know how I just figured that out!

 

yo jason u get your new car yet?

 

ya it an auto

 

Personally, I would recommend NOT revving from neutral and dumping it into drive, but that's just me. It's a good way to kill your transmission very quickly.

 

So you're holding the brake pedal while holding the throttle on the line? I don't understand how an auto hits the rev limiter....

 

^ he's hitting the rev limiter by putting it in neutral... then dumping it into "D"

 

don't race an automatic...that's how

 

But wouldn't the tranny shift before hitting the limiter while in 'D?'

 

Many of the quicker drag cars are automatic.

 

OMG! I couldnt even imagine that on a street car. Neutral drop from 6K RPM is definately asking for an order of drivetrain soup.

 

I thought he said 2200 rpm?? Anyways I think he is keeping it in D and just holding the brake to keep the car from moving (kind of like putting a manual car in 1st and holding the e-brake while slipping the clutch slightly as to get a better launch/build boost on the line for a turbo car). Now his actual problem is what I do not understand but he is just trying to what they call is "power braking". There is a whole technique for this.

 

^ wat he said was that anytime hes reving over 2200 rpm it doesnt shift from neutral to drive...atleast thats wat i read from the mess in the first post...

 

But he's not a driver of one of those drag cars which is why i said not to race an automatic...because obviously, he does not know how

 

HEY GUYS!!!!!!!

A lot of people are throwing around terms in a very sloppy fashion. . . jeez.

If you are familiar with brake torquing (or power braking), it has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with a neutral drop. In fact, a neutral drop has no useful purpose, as you can do the same thing via power braking.

Brake Torquing/Power Braking is useful and serves a purpose, and is a REAL technique. . . however, it should be RESERVED ONLY for built auto trannies. Yes, some drag cars are auto, but their trannies are worth more than your car!!!!

If you want to brake torque, do so lightly and only for a brief moment. When you do so, you exponentially increase your torque on launch (due to oil pressure in the torque convertor). What does that mean? It means your POS OEM tranny meant for daily driving has boiling/burning oil flowing throw it, causing massive damage. Not only that, you REALLY need a high stall torque convertor if you are serious about drag racing an auto.

The tranny not shifting could be due to many different things. . . old school autos were pressure activated, but our are controlled via the ECT. Could be misreads on the pressure sensors, could be the temperature, could be the gears locking up. . . who knows. I know enough to understand the topic, but I'm not good enough to diagnose problems.

Your first three mods NEED to be:
1) Upgraded auto tranny fluid
2) Auto tranny fluid cooler (kinda like an additional radiator for your tranny
3) High stall torque convertor
4) (opt) auto tranny temperature guage

And you better not be shifting that auto by hand. . . if so that would be the cause right there. It doesn't do a bit of good in a modern CPU controlled tranny. Old school auto's sometimes would benefit as they would shift early. . . our modern day autos will shift at redline. Shifting the auto yourself is completely pointless, unless you are doing it just for fun. . . even then. . . and if anybody responds with any butt-dyno rebuttles, by all means shift your auto and watch grandma beat you to the next light as she leaves it in D.

 

if you got an auto and you raced it like that and the car is not shifting its probly cuz you screwed up the tranny

 

This is true, but those quicker drag cars have upgraded built automatic transmissions, not econo car automatics. I think he means don't race a regular auto tranny the way he does. High end cars like bmws and audis with tiptronic is another story.