Well guys I found some tips about upping the Compression Ratio on some motors. The article is about a Ford 350 Engine, but the basics are there. Maybe some of u will benefit of some of the tips. :D

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec...on_ratio_tech/

Tip examples:

15 COMPRESSION BOOSTING MOVES

1. Feed cold air to the induction
2. Keep water as cool as possible (170 F or less)
3. Keep the air cool in the intake ports
4. Put a heat-reflective shine on the outside of the intake manifold
5. Minimize heat transfer through the common exhaust/intake port wall
6. Keep fuel temperatures down (cool can)
7. Run with plugs a little colder than the minimum required
8. Use an ignition system that is gross overkill
9. Utilize as large a spark plug gap as possible
10. Use no more ignition advance than is necessary
11. Maximize quench action
12. Minimize head chamber volume
13. Use flat-top pistons if possible
14. Minimize under-hood exhaust heat--use coated headers
15. Do not ram in but vent out hot air through hood vents

 

Thank you oh guru of compression!!!!!

Now I have something to go by, so far its all been just COTS pieces.....

 

COTS pieces? Also remember, this is just a guide and tips. All under your own risk, and thanks.

 

Things to do:

1. Feed cold air to the induction
(Already got a CAI)

2. Keep water as cool as possible (170 F or less)
(I changed the thrmostat to a 160F, got it to at least a 185F)

3. Keep the air cool in the intake ports (Venting unburn gasses with a Valve Breather, Insulate the inatke arm with any anti-heat material)

4. Put a heat-reflective shine on the outside of the intake manifold
(Don't know what this means)

5. Minimize heat transfer through the common exhaust/intake port wall
(Self Explanatory and still confused)

6. Keep fuel temperatures down (cool can)
(Fuel Cooler??)

7. Run with plugs a little colder than the minimum required (What are the stock Heat Range?)

8. Use an ignition system that is gross overkill
(Nologies? Waste of money perhaps)

9. Utilize as large a spark plug gap as possible
(I will buy some new spark plugs to see if we can achieve something here.)

10. Use no more ignition advance than is necessary
(Still gonna try to advance 3-4 points)

11. Maximize quench action
(Quench Action?)

12. Minimize head chamber volume
(Hard to without oppening the motor.)

13. Use flat-top pistons if possible
(Have to open motor.)

14. Minimize under-hood exhaust heat--use coated headers
(Jet-Coat the Header?)

15. Do not ram in but vent out hot air through hood vents
(Use washers on the hood mounts, not pretty but works.)

Any one got more hot-rodding tips? :D Solutions? Waste of time?

 

In case someone wants to know, the CFM needed for our engines. It is 270.29 The Formula is:
(143.70cc*6,500)/3456=engine CFM. This is taking into account maybe the rev limit is at 6,500 RPMs, if not then use the correct one. :D Happy tuning.

 

4. A good absorber is a good radiator and a good reflector is a poor radiator so by association, a poor absorber is a good reflector. So basically, reflective things don't absorb heat as well as matte things. If you look at all functional furnaces, they're matte black or uncolored iron to better radiate heat throughout a room while non-functional chrome furnaces found in some neo-retro chic houses do a poor job of heating a room. Same would go for the intake manifold. Covering it with a shiny reflective material would reduce the heat it absorbs and then, the heat that is absorbed, isn't as readily radiated into the intake charge. However, it'd be tough to cover the inside of the intake manifold with like, a reflective paint so you could use a thermal cover over it (under it actually, since it sits above the s pipe) to reduce heat soak. It'd help to do the same over the exhaust header in addition to Jet Hot coating it.

6. I don't know much about keeping fuel temperature down but I don't think this would help us much as the tC has a returnless fuel system so any heated fuel wouldn't make it back to the fuel tank. Also, colder fuel is harder to ignite so you might run into some efficiency problems there. One thing for sure is that if you actively cool your fuel you'll run into poor gas mileage and crappy emissions.

8. There's almost no way to improve on Toyota's electrical system.

Have fun!

 

I'm not a pro, but for general advice, I'd like to add a few little things-

1) In addition to shielding your intake manifold, Heat wrap your CAI. You can find some good 1/4-inch thick pipe wrap from Lowe's for about $3/roll. Get 2 rolls of the stuff that has the reflective coating and get to work!

Won't look pretty, but it'll help with the heatsoak. It dropped my IAT's approximatley 5-10 degress at idle, and even after a HARD autocross session, the pipe remains cool to the touch even if it's 90 degress outside.

The super thin stuff does not work. You need some actual insulation. The stuff I use has an R-value of 4 or so.

2) The proper amount of ignition advance depends on a number of design factors built into the car. It is true that the "best motors" (formula one) run close to zero advance, but this is due to the extremely good design of the motor, as well as the fact that you can't advance timing when you're blasting along at 18,000 rpm. Your time-windows are too short to do anything !

I hear that our motors will respond very well to additional timing advance up to about 4500 rpm, but at that point, you'll need to pull back a bit. CamCon and dyno time, dyno time, dyno time.

3) Pierelli has it right. "Power is nothing without control." If you can't get that power to the ground, prepare to limit yourself to burnout contests.

I grabbed some Fuzion ZRI's today, and these rock. Take a look at those or anything else rated highly on Tirerack. Talk to a few autocrossers. Great tires will greatly improve both handling and standstill acceleration in a stock car.

4) Suspension matters to. Make the end you want to grip softer. Even tC drag-racers can benefit from stiffening up the rear end, as it'll help the front end get traction.

A good suspension setup for the handling guys needs a little more balance... more stiff for front and back to reduce body roll, but again, a generally stiffer rear. This is adjusted to taste... but keep in mind, a RSX-S's handing actually IMPROVES by taking off the stock front sway and replacing with a civic's.
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If anyone else has lessons learned, go ahead and post them up! Might eventually make a really good sticky.

 

Woho! Nice tips guys. May I add another?

Do a Throttle Body Coolant Bypass. I have it done in my car. This will reduce the temps of the incoming air into the motor, by mantaining the throttle more cool under loads.

If you are willing to advance ignition, you must automaticlly use a higher octane rating fuel, to prevent detonation. Do not go beyond 3-5 points of advance from the OEM points of ignition.

For those who wonder how much you can do by reducing the weight of your car, here is the formula.


More extreme helpul tips, to the mechanical inclined would be:

Remove Balnce Shaft Belts
(Maybe someone can help here. Supposedly ZPI was to release in some time a Kit to do this)

For steady hand guys with dremel knowledge:

Port and Gasket Matching
(Doing this u ensure there is no obstruction at the entrance or exit of the ports either in the Intake Manifold or the Header. In the intake manifold, the entrance, all I see that can be done is to remove a mesh grill that is there for a purpose what is it? I don't know, but it seems like an obstruction. At the exhaust side, maybe port the gasket. I haven't seen it but I will really try these, maybe even clean up the exit port of the exhaust side.

Now I have a question for u guys:
Does anyone know how to make the circuit for our fans so we can turned it ON whenever we want, at the track, while waiting?

 

Jet Hot coating is to retain Heat, right? So It will not work as a reflective? Like doing the Intake Manifold with a Jet Coating? Maybe not. Also agree in, cooling the fuel is a waste of time in the tC.

 

Ceramics in general don't conduct heat well. Basically, a ceramic coat (or any insulator) will keep heat where it's hot and keep cool where it's not.

 

I see.

 

Now according to your number 2... You say keep water temp down?? How does this make more compression?? Race engines run higher temps for oil and water so that when the engine goes through combustion the engine absorbs less of the heat (or energy) from the combustion cycle (power cycle) and lets more energy be used for power and giving exhaust gasses more energy to exit with (more velocity).

 

It does not make more compression, it helps to maintain a healthier engine when upping the compression. The reason high output engines have high temps in oil and water is because they achieve those temps for the extreme conditions their are enduring, they do not want them to run that high but theres no choice since even with an all water cooling system, heat is always there. The more compression the more heat by prssure is created, thus by trying to maintain lower temps, you can help to achieve better results when pressurizing the cylinder even more.

 

What I actually said was they WANT higher temps... Have you ever seen an oil cooler where 3/4 of the frontal surface area is covered with duct tape?? To give you an idea the 4age in the old Toyota Atlantic cars aimed for about 200 degree oil temperature. If you are saying this only for reliability of an engine for a street application then it would help keep it reliable but ultimately hurt performance.

 

As u can see with the specs below, Water temps are like that because they can't really lower them since, this is a high output engine making lots of heat from the compression ratio. See the octane rating they need to use to prevent detonation. See also, the oil temp it runs, they actually fight against oil temps to prevent power loss.

From the web page at the first post:
The need to run from 160F to 170F is to help in the cooling efficiency of the engine to have MORE prevention against detonation. My car is now running 185F just for the sake of having lower engine temps that will affect my Intake Air temps. Improvement? No, still heat soak due to the aluminum Intake arm. Solution: Insulate the arm to prevent heat soak.

 

Anyone have run a gap on the spark plugs, other than the OEM?

 

What do you guys think would be the effect of increasing the sparkplug gap be?

 

Try Denso's Iridium Power plugs ! They help acceleration tons!!! But they are REALLY expensive, try eBay

 

Forget it, I'm about to sell my car.

 

watching