PF2

i have injen cai, megan headers, and a borla axel back... how many horses u think i got??

BlckdOutTC

iTrader: (1)

maybe 5 more than stock

Complication

like around 170 to the crank and like 158 to the wheels... but don't take that as gosple though...

TinmanTC

lol. seriously? How can those 3 mods only result in 5 HP.

I dont get it.

Replacing the stock "restrictive" intake. stock "restrictive" manifold. After market axelback.

ALl for 5 HP? There is no point in modding this car then.(besides FI).

unsungfate

get s-pipe, most restrictive

TinmanTC

somebody did an intake test I think the intake alone made over/around 5 hp.

How much do headers add? axelback?

Makes no sense.

Crayola_G

i have alphawerks header custom 2.5 catback and k&n intake w/ aem air filter and i made 170whp 3 consecutive times on a conservative dyno runing lean.

BlckdOutTC

iTrader: (1)

yeah thats with the most top of the line stuff, I was a little low on the 5hp, but you realisticley prolly have just under 10 more than stock. Add a mid pipe and s pipe and you'll see around 10 like crayola.
Oh, and if you do add mid pipe and s pipe, slap on some resonators to take away the ugly rasp from header!!
By the way, are you manual or auto?

BlckdOutTC

iTrader: (1)

You made 170 to the WHEELS? i'd liek to see the dyno slip of 170Whp. 170 to the crank maybe...

Aroddalobster

iTrader: (1)

a couple people on here have made around 170 with just intake, headers, and an axleback, so i wouldnt be suprised if a person with a full exhaust system made 170+.

engifineer

I love how people automatically assume the stock intake is restrictive. When the bottleneck is the tb and intake manifold, you can make the intake the size of your head and it wont do a thing.

The absolute best numbers I have seen posted by anyone (other than someone trying to sell them) running a good IHE setup was 15whp over stock. 99% of them get 10 or less.

And if the car above was running lean of COURSE it made more power. Let the ECU relearn and it will pull less. This is how the CAI companies show dyno results that no one ever sees in real life.

What was the baseline dyno for the car that supposedly hit 170 to the wheels? I am betting it would have read well over 150 if it said you were hitting 170 after, cause there is no way that is a valid gain from those mods.

TinmanTC

Yeah really...why do alot of people knock the IHE setup as making only 5 hp? It's a disgrace! Or people that say an intake makes only 1-2 HP when an intake test showed a high gain.

IHE w/full exhaust costs what ? 1500$? Now why wouldnt 1500$ worth of parts add 35 HP? I dont get it.

If IHE only gave you 5 HP, why would anybody in their right mind do it?

engifineer

And I dont care what ANYONEs dyno showed for thier intake... Show me the improvement in track times with them

BlckdOutTC

iTrader: (1)

its simple...bolt ons for our car give about 10hp. Thats it its facts. search around anyone will tell you. THose people who say they made 170 with i/h/axleback prolly had high altitude, fan in front, yadda yadda yadda.
And as for spending 1500 like stated above for about 10whp isnt worth it. Save up for FI and get some real power

engifineer

The mentality of "it cost 1500 bucks, so it HAS to make power" is EXACTLY why aftermarket companies can sell bs all day long Again, show me someone that gained any measurable, consistent performance on a timed run.. I have yet to see ONE. Gaining 10 WHP is going to make a noticeable difference. I have run a tC with a K&N CAI (it was free and sounded good.. so what the hey ) for a month or so and then took it off. Even trying my best to notice a difference, there was none. That would not be the case with a true 10HP gain.

People spend money on nology hotwire remote coil pack setups to replace our coil over plug setup. That is a severe DOWNGRADE over stock.

People buy pos peices of metal made by WR I believe, that supposedly create more spark by bolting them to the coil wires (my background is electronics and I can tell you there is not one thing on those that will do what they say, period_.

People spend money on turbonators.

And a big chunk of those people, either tricked by the sound the car makes, trying desparately to justify the money they spent, or both of the above, will swear they got these amazing gains.

Just because someone sells it does not make it worth it. Power is not cheap or simple. Especially on newer cars with better optimized layouts to begin with.

Again the "the stock intake is soooo restrictive" comments are funny, since I am willing to bet these people have not put one on a flowbench, nor tested the whole system to even see if a larger intake tube will actually provide anything or to even see where the actual bottlenecks in the system are. Hell... most people that say that really dont even know how the whole system works together. But, it is easy to assume that it is true and that 150 bucks or so will gain them all this magic power

engifineer

And lets not forget that max hp means almost jack squat... where did it peak.. and where did you lose power in the band to gain it? Area under the curve is all that matters in the end

BlckdOutTC

iTrader: (1)

^^That is very, very true. Careless buyers go aorund browsing expensive products expecting gains. All those brands - K&N, AEM, Injen, all their intakes do the same thing, next to nothing, and cost upwards of 200-300 dollars, which is why I invested in an ebay brand short ram. I got that sick sound, probably the same .5-1hp gain, and spent i think 30 bucks it was.

Make the intake as big as you want, it can only suck in as much air as the throttle body can handle so going bigger than that size is pointless.

Research our motor, learn how it works, and which upgrades are the most benificial. Most exhaust and intakes out there have the same internal diameter as stock and arent worth the hundreds of dollars.

engifineer

And if you want to battle what a CAI should (IAT's) you can get rid of that heat soaking metal tube and build yourself a GFI. You will probably be better off in the end (although still negligible gains) and will cost a whole lot less. Of course, then it doesnt have a K&N sticker on it and doesnt cost 250 bucks, so it must be crap :D

TcPrincess

FINALLY someone else who understands that just because you put some basic bolt on parts on your car, that it won't make you twice as much HP, these newer cars are REALLY well tuned from the factory so just because you put on some expensive parts, doesn't mean that you will make more HP,
and as for spending $1500 and not making 35whp makes no sence. money doesn't equal hp.
just like engifineer said, there are other parts on your engine that are more restrictive like the intake mani/TB. if your looking for a noticeable power increase then you need to go FI.

engifineer

Especially when you are reaching 1500 buckaroos! Hell, you are well on your way to a turbo kit by that time! Especially if you do your own installs.

Take that $1500 (or even $1000) and stick it into suspension mods. You will have an immediate and huge improvement in handling right there. About 1000 times more noticeable and enjoyable (even without driving like mad) than 15 hp :D