Ingalls Torque Damper Bracket Bent
Ok I did a search and nothing on this has come up.. or so I think.
Well Ive had the stiffy for maybe a week or 2 before I hit the drag strip..
I have 3 layers of Dynomat under there and it is on 11mm..
My FIRST race I launch at 3,000rpm and I get MAD wheel hop..
as I finish I notice a little vibration at idle.. so I check under the hood
and the bracket connected to the strut is BENT at the nuts...
I need your guys' help! Should I contact Ingalls about this?
Is there a way to fix this?! I am VERY disappointed right now..
ONLY ONE RUN and it broke on me..I cant even take the bolt holding
the damper off.. it is stuck there..I have managed to take the whole
assembly off with the damper still connected to the two brackets..
Here are some pictures to see what it looked like on the car..





Well Ive had the stiffy for maybe a week or 2 before I hit the drag strip..
I have 3 layers of Dynomat under there and it is on 11mm..
My FIRST race I launch at 3,000rpm and I get MAD wheel hop..
as I finish I notice a little vibration at idle.. so I check under the hood
and the bracket connected to the strut is BENT at the nuts...
I need your guys' help! Should I contact Ingalls about this?
Is there a way to fix this?! I am VERY disappointed right now..
ONLY ONE RUN and it broke on me..I cant even take the bolt holding
the damper off.. it is stuck there..I have managed to take the whole
assembly off with the damper still connected to the two brackets..
Here are some pictures to see what it looked like on the car..





bump! anyone!?
my best run was a 9.903 1/8th mile with stock potenzas
Mods: CAI,megan spipe, megan mid, trd exhaust, NST pulley, short shifter
wheel spin + wheel hop + broken Damper ForTheLOSE ):
my best run was a 9.903 1/8th mile with stock potenzas
Mods: CAI,megan spipe, megan mid, trd exhaust, NST pulley, short shifter
wheel spin + wheel hop + broken Damper ForTheLOSE ):
Well the first thing that i'd wonder is if it is/was seated properly with all of those layers of dynamat underneath it. 3 is quite a bit. It doesn't look to be sitting flat (maybe it was initially). Also, the bolt is not supposed to be on top, the nut is, so maybe the install could have something to do with it.
Were the bolts torqued down to the proper specs?
I would check the install and make sure that you did everything right. If its not your fault and you're sure of it, call ingalls.
BTW, side note- to eliminate wheel hop, the best mod is great tires, not the stiffy. Your profile says stock tires, so I would look there. I have the toyo proxes 4 tires with my stiffy on 14 and I have to work HARD to get my wheels to hop.
Were the bolts torqued down to the proper specs?
I would check the install and make sure that you did everything right. If its not your fault and you're sure of it, call ingalls.
BTW, side note- to eliminate wheel hop, the best mod is great tires, not the stiffy. Your profile says stock tires, so I would look there. I have the toyo proxes 4 tires with my stiffy on 14 and I have to work HARD to get my wheels to hop.
Originally Posted by Spect2K3
Well the first thing that i'd wonder is if it is/was seated properly with all of those layers of dynamat underneath it. 3 is quite a bit. It doesn't look to be sitting flat (maybe it was initially). Also, the bolt is not supposed to be on top, the nut is, so maybe the install could have something to do with it.
Were the bolts torqued down to the proper specs?
I would check the install and make sure that you did everything right. If its not your fault and you're sure of it, call ingalls.
BTW, side note- to eliminate wheel hop, the best mod is great tires, not the stiffy. Your profile says stock tires, so I would look there. I have the toyo proxes 4 tires with my stiffy on 14 and I have to work HARD to get my wheels to hop.
Were the bolts torqued down to the proper specs?
I would check the install and make sure that you did everything right. If its not your fault and you're sure of it, call ingalls.
BTW, side note- to eliminate wheel hop, the best mod is great tires, not the stiffy. Your profile says stock tires, so I would look there. I have the toyo proxes 4 tires with my stiffy on 14 and I have to work HARD to get my wheels to hop.
thanks for the reply
im also thinking that 3 was too much..
and i followed the install guide on THIS site which can be found here
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...+torque+damper
as you can see the bolt is on the top..
but as I looked at the INGALLS installation paper, the nut was on top..
so it might be how I installed it.. but if a lot of people followed the install on this site,
then shouldnt it have happened to them too!? or maybe it is because i put 3 layers of dynamat!?
i think the over padding of the dynmats could've done it.
that thing bent up like that means that your engine was under a heavy load. real heavy. hot and heavy in fact. two things come to mind when i look at your mishap:
1) 3 layers of dynamat = raised the damper to the point where it could sway up and down, causing it to become weak, and at one point, it bent upwards.
2) didn't torque down the nuts enough: three layers of dynamat is going to act as a cushion for the bracket to move around and causing it to flex.
that thing bent up like that means that your engine was under a heavy load. real heavy. hot and heavy in fact. two things come to mind when i look at your mishap:
1) 3 layers of dynamat = raised the damper to the point where it could sway up and down, causing it to become weak, and at one point, it bent upwards.
2) didn't torque down the nuts enough: three layers of dynamat is going to act as a cushion for the bracket to move around and causing it to flex.
everyone has a technical thing they may have found to be the problem.
i have never had any good expirences with weapon r. i think the product was just lame.
sorry about the stuck damper
i have never had any good expirences with weapon r. i think the product was just lame.
sorry about the stuck damper
thanks everyone for all the help..
I was determined to fix this problem
The reason the bolts were stuck was because of the
loctite I used.. but I managed to take them off
so after that I took off ALL 3 layers of dynamat and layed
down 2 NEW layers..now comes the bracket...
Hammer FTW
Hammered the bracket and made that thing STRAIGHT again..
to my surprise it straitened up! well enough to where it looks
how it should be. Made sure the NUTS were in the right place..
and I torqued them down to 32 FT. LBs. Is that good enough?
Also is there a torque spec for the strut nuts?
For now I am going to drive as smooth as I can..
Thanks again guys for the input
ps. I think the bracket is a lot weaker now though because its been taking a beating..
but we shall see how it turns out..
I was determined to fix this problem
The reason the bolts were stuck was because of the
loctite I used.. but I managed to take them off
so after that I took off ALL 3 layers of dynamat and layed
down 2 NEW layers..now comes the bracket...
Hammer FTW
Hammered the bracket and made that thing STRAIGHT again..
to my surprise it straitened up! well enough to where it looks
how it should be. Made sure the NUTS were in the right place..
and I torqued them down to 32 FT. LBs. Is that good enough?
Also is there a torque spec for the strut nuts?
For now I am going to drive as smooth as I can..
Thanks again guys for the input
ps. I think the bracket is a lot weaker now though because its been taking a beating..
but we shall see how it turns out..
Ray, I just shot you an email explaining that we would have replaced the bracket (we are pretty good about warranty operations in this company) before you went pounding on it with a hammer. The layers of dynamat could have been a slight issue, but we probably would have overlooked that. For future reference, never modify a broken part before hearing back from the manufacture.
On to this situation, it would appear to me that the bracket bent as a result of a few things happening. One, there was enough deflection in the dynamat that the hardware got loose and the bracket was functioning on one or two mounting points for support, not three. Also, because of the loss in tension on the mounting points and such a violent load being applied the bracket or the hardware had to give. In your case you got lucky and the bracket failed, not the factory strut mount hardware.
Last comment, the bracket as a result of being bent would be weaker. You definately didn't make it stronger by beating it with a hammer, so I can only imagine that the damper isn't going to function properly anymore.
Like I said in my email, shoot me a call and I will see if I can still replace the bracket under warrenty. Again, please speak to a manfactures representitive (read: customer service) before you start "fixing" things on your own. You'd be amazed what a reputable company will do to keep customers satisfied.
On to this situation, it would appear to me that the bracket bent as a result of a few things happening. One, there was enough deflection in the dynamat that the hardware got loose and the bracket was functioning on one or two mounting points for support, not three. Also, because of the loss in tension on the mounting points and such a violent load being applied the bracket or the hardware had to give. In your case you got lucky and the bracket failed, not the factory strut mount hardware.
Last comment, the bracket as a result of being bent would be weaker. You definately didn't make it stronger by beating it with a hammer, so I can only imagine that the damper isn't going to function properly anymore.
Like I said in my email, shoot me a call and I will see if I can still replace the bracket under warrenty. Again, please speak to a manfactures representitive (read: customer service) before you start "fixing" things on your own. You'd be amazed what a reputable company will do to keep customers satisfied.
Originally Posted by IngallsEng
Ray, I just shot you an email explaining that we would have replaced the bracket (we are pretty good about warranty operations in this company) before you went pounding on it with a hammer. The layers of dynamat could have been a slight issue, but we probably would have overlooked that. For future reference, never modify a broken part before hearing back from the manufacture.
On to this situation, it would appear to me that the bracket bent as a result of a few things happening. One, there was enough deflection in the dynamat that the hardware got loose and the bracket was functioning on one or two mounting points for support, not three. Also, because of the loss in tension on the mounting points and such a violent load being applied the bracket or the hardware had to give. In your case you got lucky and the bracket failed, not the factory strut mount hardware.
Last comment, the bracket as a result of being bent would be weaker. You definately didn't make it stronger by beating it with a hammer, so I can only imagine that the damper isn't going to function properly anymore.
Like I said in my email, shoot me a call and I will see if I can still replace the bracket under warrenty. Again, please speak to a manfactures representitive (read: customer service) before you start "fixing" things on your own. You'd be amazed what a reputable company will do to keep customers satisfied.
On to this situation, it would appear to me that the bracket bent as a result of a few things happening. One, there was enough deflection in the dynamat that the hardware got loose and the bracket was functioning on one or two mounting points for support, not three. Also, because of the loss in tension on the mounting points and such a violent load being applied the bracket or the hardware had to give. In your case you got lucky and the bracket failed, not the factory strut mount hardware.
Last comment, the bracket as a result of being bent would be weaker. You definately didn't make it stronger by beating it with a hammer, so I can only imagine that the damper isn't going to function properly anymore.
Like I said in my email, shoot me a call and I will see if I can still replace the bracket under warrenty. Again, please speak to a manfactures representitive (read: customer service) before you start "fixing" things on your own. You'd be amazed what a reputable company will do to keep customers satisfied.
Thanks for the info
I would first like to tell everyone that I made a BIG mistake by hammering the bracket, hence "tampering" with the product. Dan from Ingalls is bending over backwards right now to help me get a new one. Technically he doesnt have to do ANYTHING because of what I just did. So I would like to THANK him for helping me out on this one
PLEASE everyone learn from MY mistake and DONT TAMPER with any product before you get an ANSWER from them. Thanks for EVERYONES help
PLEASE everyone learn from MY mistake and DONT TAMPER with any product before you get an ANSWER from them. Thanks for EVERYONES help
Glad to hear it worked out for you.
By the way, the diy that you followed for the install on this site was incorrect in MANY ways. I went on and on in that thread that it should be fixed (which it never was) as to avoid people like yourself getting hit with issues. Anyway, jetlounge posted a new version of the diy which I believe is flawless. The old diy was taken out of tech, here is a link to the new one:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...301120#2301120
Better late than never...
By the way, the diy that you followed for the install on this site was incorrect in MANY ways. I went on and on in that thread that it should be fixed (which it never was) as to avoid people like yourself getting hit with issues. Anyway, jetlounge posted a new version of the diy which I believe is flawless. The old diy was taken out of tech, here is a link to the new one:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...301120#2301120
Better late than never...
I havent seen any problems with our Damper kit now that we figured out that the plate on the strut tower cannot be on the same plane.
The plane of pressure just makes it want to push upwards, which is why we changed our damper kits. Also all of our brackets have gussets to strengthen all points of each bracket.
The plane of pressure just makes it want to push upwards, which is why we changed our damper kits. Also all of our brackets have gussets to strengthen all points of each bracket.
Originally Posted by monstermotorworks
I havent seen any problems with our Damper kit now that we figured out that the plate on the strut tower cannot be on the same plane.
The plane of pressure just makes it want to push upwards, which is why we changed our damper kits. Also all of our brackets have gussets to strengthen all points of each bracket.
The plane of pressure just makes it want to push upwards, which is why we changed our damper kits. Also all of our brackets have gussets to strengthen all points of each bracket.
BTW, one of our car club member has the Ingalls dampner with one layer of dynamat and he has not had any problems either..






