Mishimoto 2 core aluminum radiator installed and review
08-28-2008, 02:20 PM
#42
oh the mounting kit, i just bought some from autozone, theyre pretty much generic radiator, oil cooler, tranny cooler mounting kits that looks like zip ties lol.. i think i would be able to fit a 14", but its gonna be a lil on the upper part coz I cant stick it too low because of my IC pipe
08-29-2008, 12:01 AM
#43
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PMed...
2 14" fans on the mishimoto radiator will have overhang. The radiator is 24" wide so a 14" and 10" setup, or 2 12" fans would be the best bet to utilize the most amount of pulling force.
The mounting kit is to mount the fan to the radiator.
2 14" fans on the mishimoto radiator will have overhang. The radiator is 24" wide so a 14" and 10" setup, or 2 12" fans would be the best bet to utilize the most amount of pulling force.
The mounting kit is to mount the fan to the radiator.
09-01-2008, 03:52 AM
#44
Here's another detailed review, i just post here than making a new thread
Here's what I have
watercooled turbocharger= coolant flows to the hot turbo contantly= more heat on the coolant system
Two 12" slim fans, 1 pusher, 1 puller= pusher fan less effective, the ac blocks the air so very little air makes it to the rad
front intercooler= blocks a very big area on the radiator causing less cooling
oem rad:
Cruising
Coolant temp at normal operating temp I observed is around 182-184F, after few mins of driving temp gradually goes to around 188-192F, then it goes around 194-198 after awhile especially at low speeds between 30-45 mph, the only time the temp drops to 188F-190F is when i drive to at least 60 mph..
mish rad:
Cruise temp on a 95+ weather, 70mph is 182F (lowest operating temp IMO). On the city with lot of stop and traffic its from 188-200F (on the stock rad its 198-225) at 225F the coolant needle starts creeping to a quarter more before it reaches "H". Once the car starts moving even on low speeds temp easily drops to 186-190F. As outside temp drops to 83F, at 70mph the temp is now 181-182F, not much change there but i think that temp its cold enough not to trigger the fans..
Idle..
oem rad after long idle is around 204-225F, once it reaches 220 I usually drive the car right away otherwise I turn the engine off, at 225F its on its way to overheating.. but the highest I saw so far was 245F!!! and its at H, with the mishimoto radiator after I drove it on a busy street, i let idled it was initially 204F, after 20 mins of idling its around 198-200, still high but I could actually hear the fans turning off which i never noticed after the putting the turbo on oem radiator.. I say big improvements here, with oem fans coolant temp at idle constantly goes up, it takes awhile though but it never goes down.. with the mish rad, i got it bouncing within 198-204 for around 30 mins
I still believe I need some more cooling being my fan setup isnt that efficient, the fans still takes a long time to turn off than I wanted.. but in general the current one is already good
Issues:
I noticed a drop in coolant level on the reservoir tank. i thought it was only due to air pockets freed on the rad, i opened the rad cap and i was surprised i was able to fill a good amount. As I was driving and boosting and checking my engine bay, i was surprised that the coolant that was spilled on the battery still hasnt dried up, after every drive i check the engine bay i noticed the coolant level still dropping and i have to fill radiator, then i suspected leaks, the hoses seems pretty tight but i could see pink stuff on the side.. then there's this plastic plug that is screwed into the right side of the tank one on top and one on the bottom, and both were loose! i tightened both and problem solved so far..
I dont know what those two ports on the rad are for though, anybody knows? can those be used to feed and return coolant on the watercooled turbo?
another pic
It fits great even with a turbo w/ big manifold and a slim fan on one side..
Here's what I have
watercooled turbocharger= coolant flows to the hot turbo contantly= more heat on the coolant system
Two 12" slim fans, 1 pusher, 1 puller= pusher fan less effective, the ac blocks the air so very little air makes it to the rad
front intercooler= blocks a very big area on the radiator causing less cooling
oem rad:
Cruising
Coolant temp at normal operating temp I observed is around 182-184F, after few mins of driving temp gradually goes to around 188-192F, then it goes around 194-198 after awhile especially at low speeds between 30-45 mph, the only time the temp drops to 188F-190F is when i drive to at least 60 mph..
mish rad:
Cruise temp on a 95+ weather, 70mph is 182F (lowest operating temp IMO). On the city with lot of stop and traffic its from 188-200F (on the stock rad its 198-225) at 225F the coolant needle starts creeping to a quarter more before it reaches "H". Once the car starts moving even on low speeds temp easily drops to 186-190F. As outside temp drops to 83F, at 70mph the temp is now 181-182F, not much change there but i think that temp its cold enough not to trigger the fans..
Idle..
oem rad after long idle is around 204-225F, once it reaches 220 I usually drive the car right away otherwise I turn the engine off, at 225F its on its way to overheating.. but the highest I saw so far was 245F!!! and its at H, with the mishimoto radiator after I drove it on a busy street, i let idled it was initially 204F, after 20 mins of idling its around 198-200, still high but I could actually hear the fans turning off which i never noticed after the putting the turbo on oem radiator.. I say big improvements here, with oem fans coolant temp at idle constantly goes up, it takes awhile though but it never goes down.. with the mish rad, i got it bouncing within 198-204 for around 30 mins
I still believe I need some more cooling being my fan setup isnt that efficient, the fans still takes a long time to turn off than I wanted.. but in general the current one is already good
Issues:
I noticed a drop in coolant level on the reservoir tank. i thought it was only due to air pockets freed on the rad, i opened the rad cap and i was surprised i was able to fill a good amount. As I was driving and boosting and checking my engine bay, i was surprised that the coolant that was spilled on the battery still hasnt dried up, after every drive i check the engine bay i noticed the coolant level still dropping and i have to fill radiator, then i suspected leaks, the hoses seems pretty tight but i could see pink stuff on the side.. then there's this plastic plug that is screwed into the right side of the tank one on top and one on the bottom, and both were loose! i tightened both and problem solved so far..
I dont know what those two ports on the rad are for though, anybody knows? can those be used to feed and return coolant on the watercooled turbo?
another pic
It fits great even with a turbo w/ big manifold and a slim fan on one side..
09-05-2008, 08:47 AM
#46
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Originally Posted by Ace83
Here's another detailed review, i just post here than making a new thread
Here's what I have
watercooled turbocharger= coolant flows to the hot turbo contantly= more heat on the coolant system
Two 12" slim fans, 1 pusher, 1 puller= pusher fan less effective, the ac blocks the air so very little air makes it to the rad
front intercooler= blocks a very big area on the radiator causing less cooling
oem rad:
Cruising
Coolant temp at normal operating temp I observed is around 182-184F, after few mins of driving temp gradually goes to around 188-192F, then it goes around 194-198 after awhile especially at low speeds between 30-45 mph, the only time the temp drops to 188F-190F is when i drive to at least 60 mph..
mish rad:
Cruise temp on a 95+ weather, 70mph is 182F (lowest operating temp IMO). On the city with lot of stop and traffic its from 188-200F (on the stock rad its 198-225) at 225F the coolant needle starts creeping to a quarter more before it reaches "H". Once the car starts moving even on low speeds temp easily drops to 186-190F. As outside temp drops to 83F, at 70mph the temp is now 181-182F, not much change there but i think that temp its cold enough not to trigger the fans..
Idle..
oem rad after long idle is around 204-225F, once it reaches 220 I usually drive the car right away otherwise I turn the engine off, at 225F its on its way to overheating.. but the highest I saw so far was 245F!!! and its at H, with the mishimoto radiator after I drove it on a busy street, i let idled it was initially 204F, after 20 mins of idling its around 198-200, still high but I could actually hear the fans turning off which i never noticed after the putting the turbo on oem radiator.. I say big improvements here, with oem fans coolant temp at idle constantly goes up, it takes awhile though but it never goes down.. with the mish rad, i got it bouncing within 198-204 for around 30 mins
I still believe I need some more cooling being my fan setup isnt that efficient, the fans still takes a long time to turn off than I wanted.. but in general the current one is already good
Issues:
I noticed a drop in coolant level on the reservoir tank. i thought it was only due to air pockets freed on the rad, i opened the rad cap and i was surprised i was able to fill a good amount. As I was driving and boosting and checking my engine bay, i was surprised that the coolant that was spilled on the battery still hasnt dried up, after every drive i check the engine bay i noticed the coolant level still dropping and i have to fill radiator, then i suspected leaks, the hoses seems pretty tight but i could see pink stuff on the side.. then there's this plastic plug that is screwed into the right side of the tank one on top and one on the bottom, and both were loose! i tightened both and problem solved so far..
I dont know what those two ports on the rad are for though, anybody knows? can those be used to feed and return coolant on the watercooled turbo?
another pic
It fits great even with a turbo w/ big manifold and a slim fan on one side..
Here's what I have
watercooled turbocharger= coolant flows to the hot turbo contantly= more heat on the coolant system
Two 12" slim fans, 1 pusher, 1 puller= pusher fan less effective, the ac blocks the air so very little air makes it to the rad
front intercooler= blocks a very big area on the radiator causing less cooling
oem rad:
Cruising
Coolant temp at normal operating temp I observed is around 182-184F, after few mins of driving temp gradually goes to around 188-192F, then it goes around 194-198 after awhile especially at low speeds between 30-45 mph, the only time the temp drops to 188F-190F is when i drive to at least 60 mph..
mish rad:
Cruise temp on a 95+ weather, 70mph is 182F (lowest operating temp IMO). On the city with lot of stop and traffic its from 188-200F (on the stock rad its 198-225) at 225F the coolant needle starts creeping to a quarter more before it reaches "H". Once the car starts moving even on low speeds temp easily drops to 186-190F. As outside temp drops to 83F, at 70mph the temp is now 181-182F, not much change there but i think that temp its cold enough not to trigger the fans..
Idle..
oem rad after long idle is around 204-225F, once it reaches 220 I usually drive the car right away otherwise I turn the engine off, at 225F its on its way to overheating.. but the highest I saw so far was 245F!!! and its at H, with the mishimoto radiator after I drove it on a busy street, i let idled it was initially 204F, after 20 mins of idling its around 198-200, still high but I could actually hear the fans turning off which i never noticed after the putting the turbo on oem radiator.. I say big improvements here, with oem fans coolant temp at idle constantly goes up, it takes awhile though but it never goes down.. with the mish rad, i got it bouncing within 198-204 for around 30 mins
I still believe I need some more cooling being my fan setup isnt that efficient, the fans still takes a long time to turn off than I wanted.. but in general the current one is already good
Issues:
I noticed a drop in coolant level on the reservoir tank. i thought it was only due to air pockets freed on the rad, i opened the rad cap and i was surprised i was able to fill a good amount. As I was driving and boosting and checking my engine bay, i was surprised that the coolant that was spilled on the battery still hasnt dried up, after every drive i check the engine bay i noticed the coolant level still dropping and i have to fill radiator, then i suspected leaks, the hoses seems pretty tight but i could see pink stuff on the side.. then there's this plastic plug that is screwed into the right side of the tank one on top and one on the bottom, and both were loose! i tightened both and problem solved so far..
I dont know what those two ports on the rad are for though, anybody knows? can those be used to feed and return coolant on the watercooled turbo?
another pic
It fits great even with a turbo w/ big manifold and a slim fan on one side..
09-05-2008, 10:15 PM
#47
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yes, those are the drain valve and the vent valve. The one up near the battery is the vent, and the one near the driver's side bottom is the drain valve. This radiator comes with plastic valves and an o-ring seal so you have to be careful tightening them. You don't want to strip the plastic threads in the aluminum seats. Mine leaked during install a few times but it just took a few extra 1/4 turns of the bottom drain valve to get it set. No leaks in over 4000 miles.
09-06-2008, 11:56 PM
#49
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Thanks!
About 3400 highway miles and some hard driving miles thrown in there and no issues. No leaks, temp spikes or anything. Cooling stays low and consistent as does the weld quality. This radiator is GREAT!
About 3400 highway miles and some hard driving miles thrown in there and no issues. No leaks, temp spikes or anything. Cooling stays low and consistent as does the weld quality. This radiator is GREAT!
10-06-2008, 12:04 AM
#52
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Still running cool and with dropping ambient temperatures, car has been running great on the highway. Periodically, as the thermostat opens, you notice a nice drop in coolant temp but b/c I have the 170 thermo in, as compared to the stock 180, it opens earlier. With it opening earlier, the temp fluctuates a bit quicker so the needle is relatively constant.
All in all....I'm lovin' it! (sorry McDonald's)
All in all....I'm lovin' it! (sorry McDonald's)
10-21-2008, 12:18 PM
#53
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Here's a visual (using a generic cluster picture) of what happens with my cooling setup. I've been running it for about 8000 miles with no issues.
95% of the time (b/c I don't race it at all really), the needle stays where you see the red line is. That's normal for pretty much all tCs. The difference is when I decide to race my engine...that's where the needle plunges and the block stays a great deal cooler throughout the run. The blue line depicts my temperature reading as I am racing the engine and for about 30 seconds afterwards.
I am going to leave my setup as is during the winter b/c while driving normal in 50 degree weather, the needle doesn't move at all and I still have normal heat. On the highway, the thermostat opens up early enough to have the block regulated rather than letting a flood of cold water hit the block...which really isn't good for the block due to extreme temperature changes. The winter can get down into the teens around here so that'll be a test for my car but I always let it idle to warm up at least to where you see the blue line before getting in and driving it.
Spring time will be time to swap the waterpump out just for good measure so I'll let you all know how things go through that time.
95% of the time (b/c I don't race it at all really), the needle stays where you see the red line is. That's normal for pretty much all tCs. The difference is when I decide to race my engine...that's where the needle plunges and the block stays a great deal cooler throughout the run. The blue line depicts my temperature reading as I am racing the engine and for about 30 seconds afterwards.
I am going to leave my setup as is during the winter b/c while driving normal in 50 degree weather, the needle doesn't move at all and I still have normal heat. On the highway, the thermostat opens up early enough to have the block regulated rather than letting a flood of cold water hit the block...which really isn't good for the block due to extreme temperature changes. The winter can get down into the teens around here so that'll be a test for my car but I always let it idle to warm up at least to where you see the blue line before getting in and driving it.
Spring time will be time to swap the waterpump out just for good measure so I'll let you all know how things go through that time.
12-23-2008, 12:28 AM
#54
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Update:
Ended up swapping the waterpump early b/c the freeze plug was spewing coolant. Kept the 170 thermostat in so as of right now my setup is as follows:
OEM waterpump, OEM pullies, Agency Power 5 ply silicone hoses, Gates 170 thermostat, 2 core Mishimoto aluminum radiator, Toyota coolant (40% coolant, 60% water mix) and Royal Purple Ice additive.
Running a cool 177 degrees with ambient temp being around 22 degrees. Heat works well also.
Cruising temp (removed underdrive pullies) is between 177-184. Idle temp is around 184-188. WOT with ambient temp range from 20-40 degrees is 145-150 degrees. Fuel consumption has not been effected and car idles smoothly and runs very well at low, mid and top end.
Ended up swapping the waterpump early b/c the freeze plug was spewing coolant. Kept the 170 thermostat in so as of right now my setup is as follows:
OEM waterpump, OEM pullies, Agency Power 5 ply silicone hoses, Gates 170 thermostat, 2 core Mishimoto aluminum radiator, Toyota coolant (40% coolant, 60% water mix) and Royal Purple Ice additive.
Running a cool 177 degrees with ambient temp being around 22 degrees. Heat works well also.
Cruising temp (removed underdrive pullies) is between 177-184. Idle temp is around 184-188. WOT with ambient temp range from 20-40 degrees is 145-150 degrees. Fuel consumption has not been effected and car idles smoothly and runs very well at low, mid and top end.
12-23-2008, 03:54 AM
#55
^^ mine is close to that too! just about few degrees higher but i live in a hotter weather.. how does the royal purple additive work? im thinking of using one for more cooling
12-23-2008, 12:49 PM
#56
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Originally Posted by Ace83
^^ mine is close to that too! just about few degrees higher but i live in a hotter weather.. how does the royal purple additive work? im thinking of using one for more cooling
12-24-2008, 11:22 AM
#58
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Originally Posted by B_Real45
I love my Mishimoto.
Only complaint is the rubber o-rings used on the bleed valves such something major.
Only complaint is the rubber o-rings used on the bleed valves such something major.