Stu_Gotti

Aight.. I got an urge..

What do you think about a small shot or medium size shot of N2O? I keep reading up on it, and I've noticed a few folks have it done already to their tC... Anyone care to enlighten me on stuff that I should know.. pointers, etc.

I would like to get a kit that is the most safe for the engine and not some kit that will burn my jank up.. Thanks

Gotti

SSMtC05

I had nitrous in my old car. Lol it was a neon but it was fun to see hondas owners faces and a few v8's faces at the track when i kept up with them. I know with nitrous it can be very safe but alot of it has to do with the tuning. Alot of people just slap nitrous in and go out and "burn there jank up". In my car i had a nitrous express 75 shot. I had a bottle warmer to always keep the pressure right, 2 degree colder plugs, I had a nitrous pressure gauge, an airfuel ratio gauge, and the PLX devices wideband O2 sensor to keep a true eye on the airfuel, i also used a wet kit so it added the necessary fuel to go with the added air since nitrous really just lowers the intake temp which naturally colder air= denser air= more hp and the need for more fuel. So dont go with a dry setup. I also had a purge kit not just for looks but to keep the system from "spiking" this way i knew all the air was out of the system before i used it. I also had the arming switch to turn the system on obviously, and i reccomend using a WOT switch def this way itll never work unless your at WOT which reduce the chance of detonating and blowing it up and if youd like you can also you a window switch on top of that which will tune it to only work between certain rpms " a window" say between 3500 rpm and 6200 rpm. Im not to sure about what else you need for a tc but i know my neon ran for a long time with nitrous on it. Nitrous doesnt blow engines, improperly educated users do. Dont know if i helped much but i hope so.

Jay

Stu_Gotti

Helped bunches.. I guess I need to know what kit would be reasonable for my tC with my mods. I guess I should find a shop that installs it or someone that does it. Thanks.. any more help is greatly appreciated!

Gotti

Limey

At some point next year, if the S/C doesn't look likely I'll be taking the 4 hour drive down to ZPI and have them put a kit in (they had talked about $1k for parts and labor - which seemed good), I'd probably never go higher than a 50 shot. But hell, $1k for 200hp that's only wearing down the engine for those brief seconds I need it sounds like an awesome investment.

Limey

There's some more info here:

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...&highlight=nos

Although that thread I am way out of date, these days I'd be looking at doing it as well as a header , S Pipe and custom mid-section.

WeDriveScions

I've done a good amount of research into N2O as I'm preparing to go that direction as well...

The Best kit I've found is the ZEX "Wet" Kit... It has an Throttle Position Sensor activated WOT setup, so it's electronic, rather than having to put a little microswitch by your throttle, which I think is cheasy....

As stated above, also get a Window switch, with will prevent your rev limiter from happening at the same time nitrous is flowing... (That would be a bummer for your engine) It will turn on the ability for N20 at a set low and off at a set high RPM

You also will want a N2O Pressure guage, A/F isn't manditory, but a good idea... Just flipping expensive, and fuel pressure would be nice as well... if you go higher than 75, you probably want a fuel pump booster as well...

Get a purge setup to avoid spiking, plus a bottle heater to keep your tank at an optimum temperature...

you also may want to consider using an automatic bottle opener, unless you want to go to your trunk and turn the bottle on and off all the time...

• Zex Kit (550)
• Purge Kit (100)
• Window Switch (150 or so)
• Bottle Heater (120)
• Bottle Opener (175)
• Electric N2O guage (~150)
• Electric Fuel Pres. (~150)
• Guage Pod (~60)
• Wideband O2 (~200+)
• Pump Booster (175)

It gets pricey fast... especially to do it the right way... I've delayed this as my CarPC is currently taking my funds.

SSMtC05

1k is not too bad at all for parts and labor but i would look into what is included in that. I remember when i first sprayed my neon i thought it was just going to cost 600 for the nitrous kit and thats it, throw it in and have fun. Then the more i researched the "right" way to do it the cost went up and up. When all was said and done I had spent about 1600 or 1700 between all the parts, sensors, kit, warmers, gauges etc. I also installd it by myself with the help of a friend of mine whos big into neons. Had a turbo first gen, nitrous first gen, now he has a stock first gen and a stage 2 srt with an upgraded 20g on it from hahn racecraft. But as I said educate yourself on it and it can be a good bit of fun lived through short bursts. Keep researching and try to do it as safe as possible. dont go cheap Remember you have to pay to play.

Jay

Limey

In this application why is a wideband O2 recommended.

SSMtC05

Didnt read your post sorry WeDrive so i pretty much stated the same as you. Gets pricey fast. Some people may not like all the money you have to put into nitrous but you had to do it right or its just as bad as an untuned turbo

Jay

Stu_Gotti

Hmm.. thanks all.

SSMtC05

Wideband is reccomended because the narrow band 02 sensor will just make your airfuel gauge jump back and forth. A wide band shows you true instant accurate readings of your airfuel ratio and if you see that gauge going rich or lean you better let off the throttle cause your engine will put its head between its legs and kiss its ___ goodbye. PLX devices has a nice wideband setup where you dont need to buy an autometer airfuel gauge or AEM has one too i believe.

Jay

WeDriveScions

Wideband is recommended cause a narrowband isn't even close to accurate enough to tell you what you need to know.... people have used narrowband and get lean when the gas is off and rich when the gas is on... doesn't tell you anything useful... you want to know exactly where the mixture is at and be able to adjust your nozzle inserts accordingly on the fuel or nitrous.... so you won't damage anything.

Also, forgot to mention that you need about a step or two colder plugs, must run on premium fuel, and also advance your engine if you go above a 75 shot.

I'm going to stay at 75 when I finally decide to invest the time and cash into it... just too busy on other mods to take on a new project.

Stu_Gotti

Yeah.. I am just getting opinions.. I think I want to do it.. but I dunno yet.

SSMtC05

I think me an WEdrive have pretty much said it all i mentioned in my frst post i had 2 degree colder plugs in the neon. Now if anyone has any other questions just ask. This seems to be a pretty knowledgable thread on nitrous maybe if we get some more info on here we could sticky it or something so everyone knows kind of what to expect and what is needed for nitrous.

Jay

Stu_Gotti

Thanks guys!

Limey

What in reality are the risks?

Say you run 75shot, the reward is 75 extra horsepower at the flick of a switch.

What are the associated risks, and what are the cuases of those risks?

edit: and lets say the worse thing possible happens, what is that, people band about how NOS blows your engine up, but what does that actually entail and what does it cost to fix. Just curious, I like to know everything I'm getting into before I get into it.

WeDriveScions

Detonation.... (Not running premium, too hot spark plugs)
Not Enough Fuel getting into the cylinder.... (not upgraded fuel pump, throttle too low, rev limiter kicked in while N2O is running)
Running too rich/lean.... (Not tuning the setup correctly with Wideband O2 and adjusting the nozzles appropriately)

All of these can cause some significant damage....

But, If you install it right and tune it correctly... N2O has gotten much safer and should not harm your engine in the longrun.

SSMtC05

What entails the blowing up your engine part is basically what the airfuel monitoring is about. What could happen is either going lean or rich could lead to but not limited to. Bent rods, an actual hole in your block (ive seen it), bending valves, detonation etc. Alot of the problems are similar to what you might expect from any other forced induction system. because technically nitrous is a form of forced induction. as i said before it cools the air temp dramatically, its an oxidizer, its lower the temp of the air and naturally as i said cooler air is denser air which takes up less space so you can fit more in the combustion chamber. And just like with turbo or supercharging if all that air is in there and theres not enough fuel to burn with all the air it will cause the problems listed above. WeDrive might have some more on this im not good at describing it lol.

Jay

Limey

Quantify..."significant damage.... "

How many zero's on the bill?

SSMtC05

LOL WeDrive posted 3 minutes before me anyway lol still similar posts so there you go lol.

Jay