I'm an '08 with an Injen CAI and TRD Axleback. The rest of the powertrain is factory. I will be spraying with a Ny-Trex Triple Threat 50-75 (wet) shot.

My question is would it help to get a new mid-pipe and s-pipe? I know the factory components are pretty restrictive and better flow would help with the spray. A header is pretty much out of the question as I will not tolerate that raspy BS (on a daily driver) that comes along with running one.

Will the s-pipe back being opened up help with overall performance, or will the factory manifold still be such a bottle-neck that the parts become moot?

 

Replacing everything but the header isn't going to help very much man. If you're worried about header rasp, a high flow 18" or longer resonator will clean it up nicely. I have an 18" res and MMW header on my daily driver and there's nearly no rasp at all. Whatever slight rasp I do get doesn't out weight the ginormous increase in power I've gained. I say get the header, S pipe and toss a resonator on the mid pipe. Then en-@#&^ing-joy...

 

Id replace them just for better flow, but you dont need to with even a 75 shot your not gonna see the power to NEED it. Im putting a 75 shot on mine tuesday I have a Strup header but everything else is stock.

 

You get use to it. I had my car the header, full exhaust, and nitrous for over a year and its not that bad

 

Well, I really did not want to mess with the whole resonator deal, but if it can be done easily I may do it. Should I buy the Megan mid-pipe and have a resonator welded into it, or just have a mid-pipe made from scratch with a resonator somewhere along the pipe? Being that the cost of the Megan mid-pipe will likely run around $200 + the resonator I would that it would cost less to have a shop fabricate one from scratch.

Any particular resonators perform best for my setup?

Also, where is the best place to put the wideband O2 sensor, and will removing the cats effect the readings?

 

i say from scratch, and put the wide band right after your header removeing cats wont do anything as long as you tune when the cats are removed

this is a nice A/f monitor that doesnt require a wideband system as im sure your not at the point of needing a wideband past initial tuning on a dyno
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...p?idproduct=15

but if you want a full wideband
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=210
http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store...?idproduct=149

those are the best

 

I will likely be picking up the PLX DM-5 as I will not be dynoing for my setup but really want to keep a close eye on my A/F.

http://www.plxdevices.com/products/dm5/afrsmcombo/

There is a sale on them right now from carcandymotorsports in the sponsored sales section.

The cost of the wideband is really not bad compared to dyno time.

 

^^^^ good choice. i use an AEM. i highly recommend having a wideband and NEVER use a regular A/F monitoring device. only thing there good for is just a light show.

also look into getting your car tuned and getting a window switch. i use the e-manage ultimate. trust me your car will run a lot smoother and you don't have to worry about your car detonating every possible second. i've had some pretty bad experiences so you might want to look into it

 

your still gonna want dyno time no matter what system you run, fine tuning is gonna be important so you wont get lean spots in your jetting

 

Do you mean tune the flow rate of fuel with the nitrous, as in a mechanical-type tune or do you mean an electronic tune? I have no fuel management system and have been told they were unnecessary for my application.

Will keeping my eye on the wideband not be enough to keep from running lean?

As for the custom mid-pipe, what kind of price should I expect to pay to have a shop weld in the resonator that I will be providing and fabricate the rest of the pipe from S-pipe to axleback?

 

no with a wet shot if the computer compensates for the nitrous you may get a weird flow from your fuel solenoid, and since fuel is a lot heavier then nitrous or air to much and it can puddle in the intake causeing lean spots and back firing or not enough can make you run lean

you dont need engine management but an hour of dyno time with their wideband to dial in your A/F to about 13.2:1 would be helpful

and about 65-80 bucks for the midpipe if they have to make custom flanges, full weld job maybe 40 bucks

 

When I was using the two 75 shot jets that came with the kit the car would consistenly run lean at about 4500 rpm and sometimes even touhced 15:1 then richen up 10:1 by 5500 rpm and up. we played around with fuel jet sizing, fuel tuning, and ignition timing with the ultimate to get a consistent 13.5:1 through 3500 to 6500 rpm. It doesn't backfire anymore and runs a lot stronger

 

nice choice on the kit i have the same i have headers all the way back done...r u installing it direct into ur fuel rail?

 

hey man how did you tap your fuel line? did you just tap the banjo fitting or do we have a schrader valve?

 

the best way and for best results is to tap right into the fuel rail and the ny-trex kit comes with all the drill bits needed

 

you have a pic? i assume you mean just tapping into the banjo fitting at the end of the fuel line

 

i didnt tape into hte fuel line i drilled into the fuel rail

 

I have a tap and a fitting Im just not sure where to tap

 

i replaced the plastic fuel line right before the fuel rail with my own with a tap running to my zex box.

 

yeah i just got some 3/8 rubber hose cut the plastic and clamped in the t-fitting and it on the hard line