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Oil Consumption Fix 2AZ-FE Engine

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Old 09-25-2015, 04:00 AM
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Default Oil Consumption Fix 2AZ-FE Engine



Hello everyone,

This post is share my experience with the Warranty Enhancement ZE7​ / Oil Consumption TSB 0094-11​

I bought my 2007 Scion tC (SW) brand new in November of 2006. I put roughly 110,000 miles on it the first 3 years changing my oil every 3000 miles, for some reason I always thought 5000 miles was a little extreme to go in between. 2010 developed a slight rattling sound in engine that progressively got worse over time and all of a sudden the car was guzzling every type of recommended oil I threw into her, so conveniently after my og warranty expired. I brought it to the dealership for a minor engine checkup and the service advisor recommends swapping the engine with a qoute at $5000 and advises the engine will die at any second, what a piece of ____ Toyota. . I figured I will drive it to til the wheels fall off, making it habit to throw a quart in every 800 miles and drive like a grandma.

Fast forward to November 2014 I joined the class action lawsuit filed by The law firm of Chimicles & Tikellis on behalf of Toyota and Scion owners with defective 2AZ-FE engines. January 2015 I receive the letter and sticker for the Warranty Enhancement Program ZE7.

I Bring it back to the dealership 5 years later at 153,600 with a nasty rattle and extreme oil burning to perform the oil consumption test. They performed an oil change at my expense and sealed the dipstick, pan and cap with black tar. Unfortunately the dealer gave me a return sticker of 1400 miles instead of 1100-1300 so upon my return the test was void. after a brief argument that the mistake was on their part they paid for the oil top off to perform the test #2. The amount of oil burned on test #1 was 2 full quarts. 2quarts in 1400 miles that's absolutely ridiculous. Any who Proceed to test #2 bring it back after 1250 miles/ burned 1.5 quarts resulting in a FAIL (obviously lol). and within this 6 month period I've had 1 failed battery and two failed alternators. BOTH times the negative terminal on my battery was unscrewed, HMMMM I wonder who and why they would've done that-.- . From 2010-2015 The car ran extremely smooth despite the terrible sound and having to maintain the oil, and all of a sudden when Toyota touches it I experience all these problems. Really makes you question their service.


March 2015 placed on waiting list for Warranty Repair work, couldn't believe I got this far.
Two weeks ago I take a trip to the gas station and here this loud metal pop, check engine light comes on and I experience an extreme loss of power, somehow manage to get it to the dealership where all of a sudden the parts are available for the warranty work.

Bring it in Monday 9/14/2015 with a promise date Wed 9/15
and they gave me a complimentary rental for the time being. FINALLY SOMETHING IS BEING DONE! halleluyer lol

They did a complete engine overhaul, replaced the Pistons / Piston Rings, Rod Bearings, Head gasket and head bolts. I opted to have the valve guide seals and spark plugs replaced which cost $500 and also replaced a coil which was $129.

I received the car Tuesday 9/22/2015 after paying $775. I drive away and it drove extremely rough, not what I was expecting at all. As the engine was idling at the stop light the dashboard started vibrating, I pull over pop the hood and notice a bolt on the cooling system unscrewing itself, WTF!! I immediately turn around and back to the dealership 5 mins before they closed. a tech comes out and looks at it, and notices a bracket connected to the firewall was left loose, he pulls it in the bay and tries to get to it but the engine was too hot so I had to leave it over night.

I receive the car Wednesday 9/24/2015, I now have a fully rebuilt engine for $775(parts and labor not included in warranty). She runs a little rougher then before, I hope it will smoothen out after the break in period. I am now finally happy again, slight faith restored in Toyota, confident and excited in taking her on those big road trips like her early years. Will keep updates on the performance, and hopefully I will not have to return to the dealership for a VERY long time. :D

a couple of things-
-you do not need your past receipts to show proof of oil changes.
-you do not have to be the first owner
-they do replace the head gasket and head bolts

any questions you might have about my experience please feel free to ask
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Old 09-25-2015, 01:29 PM
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Awesome that it's finally been resolved! Hopefully the rough idle will go away. I notice mine is like that whenever I reset the computer. It should smooth up after a few driving cycles.

Did you take those pics at the dealership? I'm surprised they even let you. Out of curiosity, did any of the techs tell you what was damaged?
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Old 09-26-2015, 02:02 AM
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Originally Posted by bbsciontc View Post

Did you take those pics at the dealership? I'm surprised they even let you. Out of curiosity, did any of the techs tell you what was damaged?


Yes they said pictures would be ok, being polite will take you a long way I guess haha they also gave me a mini tour of the facility and showed me a couple other cars with the engines pulled out.
the only thing the tech said got damaged were the piston and piston rings and ignition coil on cylinder 1, and he showed me why the car was making the rattle. I asked about the cylinder walls and he said they all look good and the head looks good, as well as the balance shaft, crank shaft, water pump etc. They also said replacing the valve seals are highly Recommended but not necessary because they might be ok.
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Old 10-02-2015, 05:40 PM
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That's awesome your car got fixed. I was wondering the same about mine and passed my oil consumption test. I don't know if it's the oil i used this time because apparently on their test I barely burned about 1/4 qt of oil in 1200 miles. My last oil change is what prompt me to search about oil consumption and discovered this was a serious issue going on with the 2AZ-FE motors. When I did my last oil change about 1.5 qts of the old oil came out. I've been noticing less and less oil coming out since 2011.

I got the car new in December of 2006. I don't even have 85,000 miles on the car yet. I always use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic in 5W-20. This last oil change I tried out the Mobil 1 Full Synthetic High Mileage oil. I wonder if that oil expanded any seals or whatever and corrected any leaks or whatever caused such a burn off of oil. Also I changed the oil at 4,300 miles instead because I noticed my dipstick was reading low. I told the dealer that I would like another test when I do my next oil change to see if I yet again released roughly 1.5 qts of the old oil before the 5,000 mile interval change. If it does run low again then they agreed upon another test
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Old 10-06-2015, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by xdejablu3x View Post
That's awesome your car got fixed. I was wondering the same about mine and passed my oil consumption test. I don't know if it's the oil i used this time because apparently on their test I barely burned about 1/4 qt of oil in 1200 miles. My last oil change is what prompt me to search about oil consumption and discovered this was a serious issue going on with the 2AZ-FE motors. When I did my last oil change about 1.5 qts of the old oil came out. I've been noticing less and less oil coming out since 2011.

I got the car new in December of 2006. I don't even have 85,000 miles on the car yet. I always use Mobil 1 Full Synthetic in 5W-20. This last oil change I tried out the Mobil 1 Full Synthetic High Mileage oil. I wonder if that oil expanded any seals or whatever and corrected any leaks or whatever caused such a burn off of oil. Also I changed the oil at 4,300 miles instead because I noticed my dipstick was reading low. I told the dealer that I would like another test when I do my next oil change to see if I yet again released roughly 1.5 qts of the old oil before the 5,000 mile interval change. If it does run low again then they agreed upon another test
Mobil 1 is known for oil consumption.. if you go over to bob is the oil guy forum you'll see many many people have given up on Mobil 1 due to the fact that they are seeing oil burn off. The theory is that Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic, but a play on ftc (federal trade commission) rules that allow a non-synthetic to be marketed as a synthetic. Point is.. change to a different oil that has a lower NOACK %, which is the volatility of an oil, in other words the lower the percentage the lower the amount of oil that burns off. I had this problem with my tC, switched oil and no more oil consumption! Might be something to look into.. and check out bitog.com they really do know what they're talking about, if not obsessive about it (which can be a good thing). EDIT: here's the link to that forum.. Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO) - Gasoline Cars/Pickups/Vans/SUVs | Bob Is The Oil Guy

Last edited by sciontc_mich; 10-06-2015 at 02:45 PM.
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Old 10-26-2015, 12:46 AM
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Yeah I've read about that as well. I figured it could of been that or a combination of the two causing the burn off. I was thinking about changing to Amsoil but still not sure which one to use.
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Old 09-15-2016, 06:49 PM
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What did they have to say about that at the dealer when you discovered it?
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Old 02-20-2017, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by sciontc_mich View Post
Mobil 1 is known for oil consumption..
myth. been running mobil 1 for years (since 2003) in all my vehicles

-1995 wrangler 6 cylinder
-2001 honda shadow v-twin
-2000 grand cherokee 6 cylinder
-2012 civic 4 cylinder
-2007 tc 4 cylinder

the ONLY vehicle to burn or lose any oil has been the tc and thats because of the piston/ring poorly designed. just replaced under extended warranty so we'll see how it shapes up. just under 1,000 miles on the rebuild and so far the dealer fill up still in the cc. I think they use mobil standard non synth.
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Old 03-25-2017, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by undivided View Post
myth. been running mobil 1 for years (since 2003) in all my vehicles

-1995 wrangler 6 cylinder
-2001 honda shadow v-twin
-2000 grand cherokee 6 cylinder
-2012 civic 4 cylinder
-2007 tc 4 cylinder

the ONLY vehicle to burn or lose any oil has been the tc and thats because of the piston/ring poorly designed. just replaced under extended warranty so we'll see how it shapes up. just under 1,000 miles on the rebuild and so far the dealer fill up still in the cc. I think they use mobil standard non synth.

From what I've read for the past two years is that the properties of Mobil 1 change a lot after it's put in use, even the full synthetic line in the US is not true full synthetic. Due to the laws and advertising in the states they are allowed to advertise it as "full synthetic" on the bottle. Mobil 1 is now phase III oils as opposed to phase IV which is now a true full synthetic oil. That's one of the reasons why I switched to Pennzoil Platinum and the viscosity doesn't change that much.

Hopefully the dealer did a good job on your rebuild. The local dealer in my area here in NC said I passed doing two tests. Changing my own oil at 4500
and seeing about 1 1/2 qt of oil comes out shows different. Plus this dealership puts in Valvoline Synthetic Blend as the standard.
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Old 03-26-2017, 02:21 AM
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the engine runs great except whoever put the engine back together torqued the nut holding on the valve cover noise cover too tight, and now the oil leaks from the mounting bolt !

I can't win with toyota

Mobil 1 might not be "real" synthetic anymore but it doesn't change the fact that its still real solid oil thats probably overkill for most consumer cars with small engines that have low HP.
have you seen their new videos related to the 20k mile oil thats just come out this year?
apparently they ran it through three vehicles for 120k miles doing just 5 oil changes and the engines torn apart showing little to no signs of wear at all
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:10 PM
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For what it's worth, I recently changed the valve cover gasket on my 2006 with 125k miles (I've owned since new). I've run either Pennzoil Platinum or Mobile 1, depending on what I found on sale at the time. The top of the head was spotless! I've seen so many videos of 2AZFEs with "browning" of the intake cam area, which I assume was from oil break down. Mine showed none of that. I replaced the PCV valve since I was in there, but even the old 125k mile one looked great and was functioning perfectly. To me, this is great evidence of the long term benefits of sticking to synthetic oils over conventional.

BTW, I mostly ran 7-10k oil change intervals, so it's not like I was constantly flushing it with clean oil. At most, I've only had to add about half a quart after 6000 miles.
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Old 03-28-2017, 12:01 AM
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See that's the thing though. If I tried to run full synthetic oil that's suppose to last over 6000 miles then I'd be SOL because it would off all been gone by then. The last few oil changes I would drain out 1.5qts of oil at a 4500 mile change which is very unusual for me in a car I don't race or have a lead foot on. I guess it's the combination of a poor design and design flaw with the piston rings.
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Old 04-26-2017, 04:42 AM
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205k on my 2006, still stomps hard. powertrain is 100% stock.

Replace your PCV valve. Fixed my oil consumption issues. They are notorious for getting stuck on the TC. Been using Mobil 1 synthetic since 0 miles.

This guy explains @ 2:22
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by miamiBASS View Post
205k on my 2006, still stomps hard. powertrain is 100% stock.

Replace your PCV valve. Fixed my oil consumption issues. They are notorious for getting stuck on the TC. Been using Mobil 1 synthetic since 0 miles.

This guy explains @ 2:22
https://youtu.be/vZe0BOhjWVk?t=2m22s
I replaced mine at 94,000 miles anyways but the old was still working and not clogged up or working both ways. It's the piston design and upped compression on the 2AZ-FE motors on all Toyota's that are '07+ that were changed slightly.
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